Basic idea: straight skirt with several reliefs.
A fairly tight, elegant skirt can flatter any figure. For successful modeling, you just need to have a good base built with comfortable increases for you, 0-2 cm to the OT and OB girths.
The skirt can be made with a stitched belt or fitted with a facing at the request of the client. The waistline can also be any, natural or low.
Since the model is not symmetrical relative to the line of the middle of the front and rear parts, the modeling must be performed on the parts “in a turn”.
For our modeling, we conditionally divided the width of the front panel into three parts. Thus, two reliefs and an undercut detail were identified. If your client’s hip circumference is more than 100cm, then you can increase the number of reliefs. Visually vertical reliefs will make the figure slimmer. This is also facilitated by sweets on the cutting detail.
You can also vary the number of folds and their depth at your discretion.
In our model, reliefs are made on both the front and back parts of the skirt. You can simplify the model by leaving the back piece as is in the base.
Such models hide hip asymmetry well.
The undercut piece can be made without folds. The asymmetry of the lower cut is also a matter of your personal taste. The model can be made with a horizontal bottom line.
One back dart can be left. Especially if you are working with hard fabric and, according to your calculations, the RZ takes values of more than 5 cm.
But, if you have different conditions: softer fabric, less RZ, then you can move the relief closer to the top of the back dart and convert the entire opening of the dart into relief.
When selecting fabrics for your models, always remember the purpose of each specific skirt. Almost any model can be turned from a strict office skirt into an elegant or creative skirt, just by changing the fabric or even just changing the direction of the thread.
The traditional version of the shared thread is shown in your drawing. Place the middle piece at a 45-degree angle on a checkered fabric for an unexpectedly interesting look. The original skirt model will simply not be recognizable.
You don't even have to make such a sharp contrast of pattern and color. Nowadays there is a large selection of fabrics in stores that differ slightly in shade. In fabric, the color difference is not as visible as in the product.
Feel like a real product designer, and not a craftsman who acts only according to a strict description and recipe. And like a real designer, be prepared not only for success, but also for... failure.
From the book by G. Zlachevskaya “The Best Models”
Date of publication: 05/02/2017
Any woman begins to look slimmer and leggy in a pencil skirt. This ability to “stretch” the silhouette and flatter the figure has made this skirt a universal classic and a must-have wardrobe item. It suits, with extremely rare exceptions, owners of almost any body type: hourglass, pear, banana, and inverted triangle. But, note, the slimming effect appears only with the right “pencil”.
What is the right pencil skirt - visual perception
“Pencil” is usually called any straight skirt of medium length, which is not entirely fair. In fact, a pencil skirt differs from just a straight skirt in two mandatory features:
- fits the hips quite tightly;
- noticeably narrows downwards.
It is believed that the right pencil skirt must be knee length. This is only partly true - depending on what figure and height. In order for a pronounced optical elongation to appear, the length of such a skirt must be at least twice (or better - 2.5) greater than its width. Width is not the circumference of the hips, but the horizontal line that you see at the widest part when you look in the mirror from the front. Length is not the full actual vertical value, but a measurement of only its visible part, and it depends on what kind of “top” the skirt is worn with.
If you wear the “top” tucked in and the waistband of the skirt is open, then the apparent length is the same as the actual length. If the “top” is worn untucked, for example, a pullover 5-15 centimeters long below the waistline, then the visible part of the skirt is shortened and to obtain a “pencil effect” it must be lengthened.
The recommendation to wear such a skirt with shoes with heels or wedges is based on the need to “stretch” the silhouette. Indeed, if you add height to the figure, then visually the hips seem a little narrower relative to the overall vertical, and, therefore, the length/width ratio of the skirt approaches the cherished 2-2.5. You just need to remember to lengthen the skirt a little in accordance with your changed height. However, if you have a fairly narrow-hipped figure, there is no need to change the proportions; the “pencil” shape will look harmonious with flat-soled shoes.
The right pencil skirt - design features
Modeling of a pencil skirt is done on the basic basis of a straight skirt with minimal increases for freedom of movement or on the basis of a “fit” (without increases at all). The method of constructing a pattern does not matter whether you make a drawing according to Muller, TsNIISHP, Roslyakova, EMKO, Zlachevskaya or any other author’s cutting technique, or even from a book on home economics of the 50s - the result will be equally good. It makes no sense to present calculations here, since the design techniques that make a pencil skirt from a straight base are applicable to any construction method.
First of all, we determine the allowance for freedom of fit. They are needed to make it comfortable to move in a skirt: walk, sit down, bend over. On average, this is 2-6 cm to the hip circumference. When sewing from elastic fabric, a lower value is selected, down to zero (no increase at all). For girths exceeding 100 cm and stiff fabrics, the value is greater.
You should not reduce the recommended increases out of a desire to get a tighter silhouette. Plus or minus a couple of centimeters are not visually determined, but they add comfort. In addition, a skirt that is too narrow at the hips will inevitably rise when walking: the stretched fabric tends to slide from the covered area to where it can lie freely, that is, closer to the waist.
After the base is ready, you should narrow the skirt along the side seams. To do this, starting from the line of the hips - the widest place in the drawing - we draw a new line for the side seam, deviating it towards the middle of the front/back. The deviation should not exceed 2.5 cm in the area of the knees? patterns: in total, the narrowing of the full girth will be 10 cm; it will be difficult to walk in a narrower skirt.
To more clearly outline the buttocks, it is permissible to introduce a subgluteal dart. This is the same narrowing as described, but along the line of the middle of the back. It should start a couple of centimeters below the most protruding point of the buttocks - measure this distance on the figure. Just be sure to take this additional dart into account in the overall trim, remember: no more than 10 cm at knee level.
Another design element that effectively slims the silhouette are vertical lines - raised seams, through fasteners. Simply draw a straight line from the top of the dart to the bottom and cut the pattern along it.
And the peplum from the waistline or the cut-off yoke of the skirt focuses attention on the narrowest part of the figure, which also visually adds slimness. Draw a horizontal line through the tops of all the darts, cut the pattern along it and close the darts - you will get separate parts for the yoke and bottom of the pencil skirt.
The purpose of the lesson: familiarize students with methods of modeling straight skirts; teach how to model a skirt of the chosen style.
Tools and accessories: scissors, ruler, pencil, glue, album sheets, straight skirt templates in 1:4 m.
Visual aids: posters with models of various skirts, samples of various skirts.
During the classes
I. Organizational moment.
- Checking student attendance.
- Checking readiness for the lesson.
- Organization of the workplace.
- Distributing task cards.
- Conducting induction training.
II. Repetition of covered material.
1. Mark the correct answers with a “+” sign.
On which side of a person's figure are measurements taken?
on the left
on the right
How are measurements taken?
ruler
compass
measuring tape
How should you stand when taking measurements?
leaning forward slightly
straight (at attention)
bending one leg at the knee
sucking in my stomach
Why is a belt tied at the waist when taking measurements?
to clarify the position of the hip line
to divide the figure into “top” and “bottom”
to clarify the position of the waist line
Write down the name of the measurements according to the conventions.
1) St_________________________________________________
2) Dst________________________________________________
3) Sat_________________________________________________
4) Di_________________________________________________
Which of these measurements are needed to determine the length of the product?
Dst
St
Di
Sat
Which of these measurements are needed to determine the width of the product?
Dst
St
Di
Sat
III. Main part.
In order to sew a skirt of various styles, it is necessary to make changes to the finished pattern, i.e. perform simulation. In this case, the drawing of the base of the skirt can be cut anywhere, but be sure to maintain the width of the product along the waist line and the length.
Modeling is the creative process of creating new models.
Modeling is divided into artistic and technical. Artistic modeling is carried out by fashion designers, creating sketches of models. Technical modeling is carried out by design artists, creating models from sketches based on the basic design.
The main modeling techniques are:
- Translation of darts
- Changing the position of the main structural lines.
- Separating parts of a garment to change the degree of fit.
- Formation of a new cut by composing parts of the structural foundations.
Based on the drawing of a straight skirt, you can model a huge number of skirt styles: narrow and wide, long and short, with yokes in the back and front, with slits and folds of various shapes. The construction of the drawing of the straight skirt was carried out in such a way that drawings of two parts were obtained at once: the front and rear panels. For modeling, these parts need to be separated (cut), since each part is modeled separately.
Extension of the skirt along the bottom line.
On the drawing of the front and rear panels, from the side cut line, mark the required expansion along the bottom line (5-7 cm). Then connect the resulting points H 1 and H 2 with the lines of the side dart.
Tapering of the skirt along the hemline.
In the drawing of the front and rear panels from the side cut side, reduce the width of the skirt along the bottom line by the desired amount (H 3 and H 4). Then connect points H 3 and H 4 with points B 2 and B 2 on the hip line. Cut off the excess parts of the pattern.
Changing the length of the skirt.
Most often, the length of a skirt from maxi to mini is determined by fashion. For freedom of movement, women's long skirts are made with slits, slots, and fasteners.
Extensions of a straight skirt using the method of closing darts.
Very comfortable to wear slightly widened straight skirt. This expansion can be easily achieved by closing the darts on the base of the straight skirt.
Draw vertical lines along the center lines of the front and back panels of the skirt until they intersect with the bottom line and cut the patterns along these lines.
Pull apart the patterns at the bottom until the dart is completely closed.
Extension of a straight skirt using partial closure of the dart and an additional slit.
If the skirt expands significantly, you can make additional vertical cuts on the panels, which will make the expansion more uniform.
Along the axial lines of the darts of the front and rear panels, as well as through the middles of segments B 6 B 2 and B 2 B 7, draw vertical straight lines until they intersect with the bottom line.
Cut the patterns along the marked lines and unfold the resulting parts to the desired width.
Create a smooth curve for the bottom line.
Modeling a skirt with a yoke.
Coquettes in skirts are widely used. They ensure a more precise fit of the skirt on the figure, especially when making a skirt made of thick fabric. The constructive lines of the yoke make the skirt more elegant.
Visually lengthens the figure. The yoke can be on both the front and back panels, or on both panels at once.
When modeling, the yoke line can be a straight, curved or broken line, which, as a rule, passes through the end of the dart. If the yoke line is located above the end of the dart, then its upper part is closed, and the part of the dart remaining on the panel is included in reliefs, folds and other design lines. If the yoke line is located below the end of the dart, then it is either kept or extended to the yoke line and then closed.
Through the end of the dart of the front (or back) panel, draw a straight line for the yoke A B.
Cut the pattern along this line and fold the yoke from the cut off upper parts, closing the dart. Decorate the upper and lower sections of the yoke with a smooth line.
Now let's look at how these and some other methods of modeling skirts are used on specific styles.
Model 1. Skirt, widened at the bottom, with a yoke in the front.
Model 2. Skirt with a yoke and a counter pleat at the front.
- Draw a straight yoke line through the end of the dart.
- Cut off the yoke and close the dart. Decorate the upper and lower sections of the yoke with smooth lines.
- Draw straight lines parallel to the line in the middle of the front panel, indicating the depth of the opposite fold. Complete the pattern at the top of the fold, as shown in the figure.
Counter folds are those in which on the front side the folds of the fabric are directed towards each other, and on the wrong side - in different directions.
The counter fold is marked on the wrong side of the fabric with three lines:
a) midline – inflection line,
b) lateral line;
c) a line that defines the end of the stitching.
The fold allowance is equal to the depth of one fold multiplied by 4.
Model 3. Skirt with pockets and pleats at the front.
- On the drawing of the front panel, draw a line for entering the pocket (K 1 K 2), a line for the depth of the pocket (K 3 K 4) and a line for the beginning of the folds (ab).
- Cut the drawing along the line of entry into the pocket (K 3 K 4), the line of the beginning of the folds (ab) and along the vertical line of the axis of the dart.
- Construct a drawing of the burlap pocket (K 1 K 2 K 3 K 4). Complete the side part of the front panel of the skirt with a section (K 1 K 2 K 3 K 4).
- Construct part of the pattern with folds, having previously made a layout from paper.
IV. The final part of the lesson.
- Control over the quality of assimilation of new material.
- Evaluation of the test task.
V. Homework.
- Draw sketches of the styles of the skirt you would like to sew.
- Bring to the next lesson: paper, ruler, pencils, textbook, workbook.
http://shjem-krasivo.ru/
Hello, friends!
Today’s publication is an answer to a question that I recently received from a reader of the blog “You can’t forbid sewing beautifully!”
You can’t imagine how nice it is to know that my guidance brings benefits and tangible results in the form of new products!
I am always happy when I receive letters like this in which you share your victories, thank you!
I couldn't ignore Nellie's request.
And the request is this, I quote:
"Hello, Elena!
I don’t know if I can make a personal request to you. The fact is that the cold weather is coming and I would like to sew a warm skirt. But I have certain wishes. I want a pencil skirt with reliefs in the front (you can have a simpler relief - two seams vertically in the middle of each leg), without a belt, just with a facing and a zipper at the back, with a lining and a vent. The length is slightly above the knee.
I bought fleece suit fabric, laid it out and was confused.
Elena, if you can help, I will be very grateful. My size is 48 (if that). I took a course from you on how to build the base of a pencil skirt, but I couldn’t model it myself. I have never sewn skirts with a lining and a vent. You have a very accessible form of explanation, I really liked it.
Thank you in advance."
In short, I already answered Nellie’s question by email so as not to delay the creative process, but I promised to tell you more about this model.
ANDSo, today we will look at modeling a skirt with reliefs and the technology of sewing this skirt.
To model a skirt with reliefs, you need to either create a pattern for a straight skirt or use a ready-made pattern for your figure.
Of course, it is better to build your base, taking into account the characteristics of your figure, especially if it differs from generally accepted standards, but if you have a proven ready-made pattern, it will work just as well.
Modeling a skirt with reliefs.
Modeling a skirt like this is easy.
To do this, based on a straight skirt, you need to draw a line parallel to the middle of the front panel from the end of the dart (if you need reliefs on the back panel, accordingly draw a line parallel to the middle of the back panel).
Sign the parts, mark the thread and cut the patterns along the marked lines.
Technology of sewing a skirt with reliefs.
Skirt lining. Stages of cutting and processing.
If the skirt is lined:
The cutting of the lining should be done according to the cut parts of the skirt, maintaining all the decorative and constructive cut lines.
Before basting along the sides, for a better fit of the skirt due to the side allowances, be sure to cut off 0.2 cm on both sides, leaving the width of the seam allowances, but reducing the lining along the circumference of the hips, and therefore the overall length of the product being made.
If the style of the skirt is without structural and decorative elements, sewing on a lining is easy:
Stitch the darts and side seams, leaving 16 - 18 cm unstitched for fastening in the left side seam (or if desired), hem the bottom of the skirt flush with the cut of the hem allowance for the bottom of the product.
Align the treated lining with the waist line and baste.
IMPORTANT: if the upper section of the skirt is processed with a facing, then the lining is cut out minus the details of the facing. The lining is stitched to the lower edges of the facing.
In the fastener, stitch the lining to the allowances. To make the lining less movable, fasten on one side at hip level along the seam allowances with the product.
In skirts with a pleat, place the seam of the lining above the fold of the top and finish the cut for a free step.
Darts and seams in the lining should be located strictly above the darts and seams of the top of the skirt.
Processing the lining of a skirt with a vent.
If the skirt has a vent, the lining of the lower part of the vent needs to be folded inward and hemmed with blind stitches beyond the allowance for finishing the top.
On the top of the lining, make a notch to the width of the allowance for the vent, from the corner - 0.7 cm, fold the allowance inward and hem it manually along the allowance for processing the vent.
Along the upper edge of the lining with the top of the skirt we will process it with a belt or facing.
I don’t yet have a video on the topic of processing with a slot (the situation needs to be corrected), but I found an interesting and understandable video for you.
The teacher very competently and clearly explains to beginners the stages of processing splines.
The first part of the spline processing
Second part of spline processing
Third part processing splines
Ironing the skirt.
Skirts should only be ironed on an ironing board, an electric iron, or an iron with a thermostat through an iron.
First you need to carefully iron, iron or iron all the seams, darts, folds, pockets, and then the entire skirt is finally ironed from the wrong side.
We fix the ironed product on a hanger and leave it until it dries completely and the shape given to the product is fixed (skirts made of woolen fabrics - 20-25 minutes, skirts made of silk and cotton fabrics - 10-15 minutes).
Iron the side seams of the skirts on a special oval-shaped pillow (can be replaced with a towel folded several times) to avoid deformation of the side lines.
When ironing the hem of the bottom, it is better to place a folded fabric to the edge of it and, through a moistened iron, slide the iron along the hem and along the lined fabric so that the edge of the seam does not imprint on the front side.
Place the ironed product on a hanger and leave until it dries completely and secures the shape given to the product (skirts made of woolen fabrics - 20-25 minutes, skirts made of silk and cotton fabrics - 10-15 minutes).
We iron all finished products only in the fractional direction of the thread, without stretching it.
So, we have looked at the modeling and technology of sewing a skirt with reliefs, I hope now sewing such a skirt will not be too difficult for you.
READY PATTERN FOR FREE.
Pencil skirt is a kind of lifesaver for women of any age, of any build. Nowadays it has many faces like never before. Depending on the length, the presence of reliefs or other design elements, the material, finishing, etc., a pencil skirt can be completely different and appropriate in a variety of situations.
Finished pattern pencil skirts with two reliefs on the front panel, on the back panel there is a middle seam into which a zipper is sewn. In the same seam at the bottom of the skirt there can be a slit, vent, fold or flounce. We deliberately do not mark any marks on the pattern of the back panel and do not give any allowances, leaving the right of choice to you. Allow allowance for processing according to your decision.
How to create a skirt pattern for a specific figure based on your measurements(step-by-step instructions) can be viewed.
Modeling a pencil skirt described earlier in several versions.
Today we offer you finished pattern.
Pattern sizes:
waist circumference 62cm,
hip circumference 86cm,
skirt length 68cm.
The pattern is given WITHOUT seam allowances!
Preparing the pattern for work is extremely simple.
Click on the diagram located at the end of the article and skirt pattern opens in a new window.
Print out the pattern sheets, connect them according to the diagram and cut them out.
- Be sure to check the scale. On a printed sheet with a 10x10 cm square depicted, sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters.
Compare the sizes of the patterns with your measurements. Make changes if necessary.
After that, start cutting. Do not forget give seam allowances and additional allowances in those places where clarification is possible during fitting.
Having swept away the details, try on the skirt, make all the necessary adjustments and start sewing.
If you wish, you can change the finished pattern according to your preferences.
For example, change the configuration of the reliefs, add pockets, flaps, belts, buckles or other decorative elements. You can also adjust the length and width of the skirt at the bottom yourself.
The technology for sewing a skirt is extremely simple and depends on the fabric chosen and your decision.
The processing sequence is standard - processing of individual parts (darts, reliefs, vents), assembling the front and back panels of the skirt, sewing in the fastener, sewing the belt or (depending on the style) processing the upper edge of the skirt with a hem, hemming the bottom and final wet-heat treatment.
The upper section of the skirt can be processed in various ways, for example, facing, binding, belts of different heights, etc.
I draw your attention to the following: if you are sewing a skirt from elastic fabric, then it is advisable to treat the upper cut with elastic material. For example, sew on elastic or lace with a scalloped edge, if this does not contradict the style, or finish it with a facing (belt) made of the same fabric as the skirt itself.
