Seam "Kozlik". Show "Yelochka"

So it is also the skills that most people around us have to one degree or another. A button, perhaps, at least once in his life sewed each.

We will not touch everything in a generally large list of manual seams in a generally large list, but those that are called "on hearing" are most in demand, consider in this article.

Manual seams

We will talk about the seams, i.e., the connection of several (most often two) layers of the cloth with one or more rows of repeating stitches of the stitches.

Manual seams are used as for temporary purposes - connecting parts of products and as permanent - for finishing sewing products, cutting cutting, compounds of products, sewing sewing accessories, etc.

Since manual seams of temporary destination are indexed - it is the contours of the parts of the patterns on the tissue, directions of the line of the serin shelves, the backs, etc. and should be visible on the material, then they are painted with thin cotton threads of contrasting with the basic color cloth.

Threads of manual seams of temporary purpose are removed, cutting every 10-15 cm seams and pulling the ends of the threads gently.

When it comes to manual seams of permanent destination, it is clear that they are paved in the tone (i.e., close to the color) of the main fabric so that they are as less visible on it.

Rooms of the thread and needles are selected taking into account the type of fabric and the type of sewing operation (desiccation, latch, etc.), which will be performed.

Also, as in the machine seams, when laying manual seams at the beginning and at the end of each seam is made. Moreover, it does not matter what type of seams are packed - temporary or permanent purpose.

You can simply tie a nodule, but, as a rule, leaving manual seams are made by analogy with the assembly of machine seams, using one of the proposed options.

1. The edges (sections) of the parts connected are equalized. The needle is introduced into the fabric from the "rear" side on itself and attracts, leaving the thread tilt of 1-1.5 cm.

2. When laying temporary lines, 1-2 stitches (stitch in stitch) of the leaf through the crane (sections) of the parts are connected and 3-4 stitch fixes when laying permanent lines, holding the tail thread with a finger.

Depending on the type of lines paved - temporary or permanent - the tail of the thread, respectively,
it remains, or is cut and the necessary seam is applied.

3. All actions are absolutely the same, with the exception of the strip stitches, which in this case are parallel to the edges (cuts) of parts.

0.5-0.7 cm before completion (or start) of the manual seam is made in the opposite direction, but the thread is not fully delayed, the loop is formed, in which the movement from itself is carried out with a needle and, without tightening the thread, the movement on In the opposite direction of Nigca with a needle, it is now held in a spawn looping, while neatly tightening the thread. Thus, a strong assembly is formed.

In the event that this is the beginning of a manual seam, then the seam is laid next, and if this is the end of the seam, then before it is cropping the thread, a needle with a thread is removed into the space of points on the seams and cut.

This method of trimming thread allows you to reduce the likelihood of "dissolving" of the scope.

Depending on the type of weave the thread, the manual seams can be classified into direct, oblique, loop-shaped, cruciform and special.

With the exception of cruciform and loop-forming, all manual seams are performed on the right left.

In addition, regardless of the type of seams (manual or machine), they are high-qualityly performed, except for their main function - the connection of elements, parts, nodes, etc., fully fulfill the function of finishing products.

It is to the fact that the seams from under the needles should come out even (in the sense, straight), with evenly tightened (unless otherwise specified in the seam laying technology) threads and with the same distance between stitches.

The simplest and frequently used are manual seams made by straight stitches.

Merifying seam (rented lines) straight stitches
It is used to temporarily connect the parts (details) and creating assemblies.

Depending on the type of tissue used and the type of sewing operation being performed, in which this seam is used, the stitches length is 0.2-5 cm. The residual seam is performed by straight meal stitches "forward needle".

Temporary: As a rule, it is paved in front of the machine seam, so it is made at a distance of 0.1-0.5 cm. The contour of the future seam in the side of the cut, so as not to disturb the integrity of the seam, which will be laid by the sewing machine.

There are also some recommendations relative to the length of stitches with facial and invalion sides. For example, the formation of assemblies, desiccation, wint, mixing, sweeping, winding - all this is done by straight stitches of the same length (0.5-5 cm) with facial and invalid sides.

To apply control marks, fog lines, mid-details lines, etc. more often; Total use multiple stitches with a length of 1-3 cm.


This seam is used to translate contour lines from one symmetrical side of the product to another.

Copier Sow. Perform as follows: Product details are the front side inside.

According to the outlined lines, the twin stitches are paved at a distance of 0.3-1 cm, the thread is not tightened, but make the loops with a height of 1 -1.5 cm depending on which thickness of the fabric.

The loop is needed in order to have the ability to push the layers of the fabric.


Copy stitches are paving strictly along the contours of the details. After the residue stitches are laid throughout the contour, the product details are moved, and the stretched threads are cut in the middle. Thus, the contours are transferred to symmetric parts.


Bone stitches are because they are called, because they are packed at an angle to the seam line.

Manual lines with slant stitches are used when it is necessary that the details of the cut or layers of the fabric can be shifted relative to each other.

Among other things, the manual seams with oblique stitches are much more elastic than manual seams with straight stitches, which does not interfere with the stretching of the tissue.

Spit stitches are performed by manual seams of temporary and permanent purpose. The temporary refers to the pumping (vertical) and marking seams.
The corresponding seamless stitches are used when swelling collars, weld, etc.

Bone stitches in the performance of the stitching seams are parallel to each other with a stitches of 0.7-2 cm from left to right.

The needle is removed from the material from the bottom up (as if by itself) at a short distance from the edge of the parts and lay the stitch on the surface of the upper part at an angle to the line line from top to bottom through all layers of fabric in the direction from the edge of the part.

The next needle puncture is made on the surface of the lower part below through all layers of fabric along the line perpendicular to the edge of the parts connected towards the line line. Thus, the pumping stitches are formed.

The final will be a machine line, laid through the intended lines on the details of the cut, after which it is necessary to delete all the stamping seams and unscrew the rates or the product on the front side.

If it is necessary to fix the seams inside the product, use the venerable seam, which is performed similar to the corresponding seam.

Most often, the extrusion seam is used when processing overhead coquettes, pockets, collars, etc.

Just keep in mind that because of your wonderful features, a "tight", the pumping and marking seams are not recommended to be used in the processing of parts from tissues with drawings into a cell and strip and parts from the lungs, thin tissues.

In the first case, with a humid-thermal processing, a distortion of the picture is possible, and in the second, the structure of the fabric can change.


Stitches are sent freely, without tightening, stitches length - 0.5-0.7 cm.

One of the representatives of the manual seams with oblique stitches of permanent purpose is the processing seam, which is often used if the edge of the edge (cut) of the tissue is needed.

Perform it as follows: at a distance of 0.3-0.5 cm from the edge of the fabric into the material perpendicular to the edge, the needle is introduced from the bottom up to the right left.


This seam is used for a permanent connection of parts in cases where the machine line is very difficult (it is impossible to say) when the seam of increased extensibility is needed (medium pants) or when it is necessary to fix the thread at the beginning or end of the embroidery.

In any case, it is the most durable seam among all manual seams. Stitches are paving without breaks (gaps). The injection of the needle makes the needle space of the previous stitch.

On the seam line (seam of permanent purpose only at the specified directions) from top to bottom is made a puncture of the needle of all layers of material.

On the seam line in the detail that is located below, the stitch is made forward and puncture the needle through all the layers of the material, but already from the bottom up. The distance between the entrance and the release of the needle is 0.1-0.3 cm.

On the seam line on the surface of the upper part, the stitch is made back, entering the needle in the previous puncture of the fabric from top to bottom.

On the seam line, to bring the needle with a thread, the next stitch is fed along the bottom surface and the needle puncture through the weight of the material layers from the bottom up. The stitch length in this case will be twice as bigger, as the thread passes along the previous stitch and a new stitch is made.

Then the stitch is paired again, entering the needle back (for the needle) in the previous puncture. Thus, a glass seam for a needle is formed.

Consider another type of seams, the essence of the use of which is one, but the embodiments are several. We are talking about seams included in the group called the hem.

Despite substantial progress in the field of sewing technologies, the area of \u200b\u200bprocessing of the lower sections of products is not yet possible to abandon manual work, namely there are most often used with the heaving seams. Consider the most commonly used.

We remember that for performing the hearing seams, the threads are selected in tone tissue (do not compare with visual illustrations, since only contrasting colors are used for clarity).

Whatever tail seam you choose before starting work, it is necessary to prepare a cut (edge) of the product to process.

Initially, it is necessary to adjust all the allowance for the bending of the product and fix it with 0.5-1 cm from the bend in any way convenient for you (rollingbulatts or it).

Then to adjust the cut (edge) directly the allowance of the product by 0.5-1 cm from the cut (edges) and also fix it, retreating from the edge of the resulting bending by 0.3-0.5 cm.

Both fibbies are affected. As a result, it turned out a fitted edge with a closed cut. Now you can proceed directly to the sewing process.


Simple tail seams are used to fix a fitted slice on the wrong side of the product, for example, to strip the bottom of the product.

It is performed as follows. The thread is fixed in the bending of the bending on the bending and further, capturing 1-2 threads from the wrong side of the product in the direction of the water side of the product, the needle tip is supplied under the allowance and the needle is displayed on the side of the allowance across the thickness of the adjacent slice at a distance of 0.3-0, 5 cm from the folding cut.

Line direction - right to left. And so until the end of the processed area.


The secret tail seam is used for the same purposes - for fixing the processed part or poda product on the wrong side of the product. The only difference is that it is performed in such a way that the seam lines are not visible, neither from the front side or with the wrong one.

To do this, the wake-up edge with a closed slice is rebels on the front side of the product and the seam is paved along the front surface of the upper bending bending to the bending and along the wrong surface of the product not higher than the level of the upper bending bending.

The secret tail seam is performed on the right left. There are several ways to perform a secret tail seam.

The secret seams with unequal secret loop-shaped stitches are made in this way - the allowance for a closed slice is rejected onto the front side of the product, by 0.3-0.4 cm from the bending line of the upper cutting of the product bending, and the bipset is made on the bending The distance is 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge of the bending.

Again, with a small inclination to the left, the needle is introduced into the surface of the front side of the adjacent cut (edges) of the feeding of the product by 0.1-0.2 cm from the top bending of the bending of the bending, passes between two layers of the fabric: the intake of the bending and the top bend The bending of the bending and is displayed after 0.5-1 cm again on the front side of the adjacent sequencing of the bending of the bending.

That is, the needle passes only one layer of tissue - the upper bend of the bending of the bending and leaves the same layer. And thus moving until the completion of the bending. Thread not delay.

And the second option - secret seam with the same loop-shaped stitches.

Technology of performing this seam Similar technology seam with unequal secret loop-shaped stitches.

Everything is the difference lies in the fact that when a needle with a thread is introduced into the front side of the bent cut (edges) of the bending of the bending, it does not stretch 0.5-1 cm, but only picks up 1-2 threads on this surface and returns back to the surface Pouring side of the product.

A needle hike from the surface of the inside the product on the front surface of the bending of the bending of the bending - there and back, and back.

The task is reduced only to the control to jump (in the sense of picking up 1-2 threads) these were uniform and asymmetric relative to each other.

It does not matter what method the product bending will be performed, it is important that the result in both cases (of course, provided that the work will be performed qualitatively), justify the name of the seam - secret. Neither the front side, nor with the wrong hearing thread is visible.


Seam is used to fix the bending of open unprocessed sections of parts of products or spindard fabrics themselves. This seam from the series "2 in 1", i.e. and the unprocessed section of the product will be treated, and the allowance for the bending of the product is fixed.

This seam has a kind of technology: the seam itself moves from left to right, but the needle - right to left. And the needle jumps at the same time, as in the previous example, from one surface to another.

Punching on the bending is flexioned on the wrong side of the product, fixed (pins or marks) and it is suitable, i.e., the batter of the bending (bending) is combined with an invalid of the product.

From the back side of the bending facing the involving side of the product, the lines are made (in this case, you can simply tie the nodules) and the thread is displayed on the front side of the bending from the bottom up at a distance of 0.4-0.5 cm from the raw cut.

Directing the needle of the needle to right left, i.e. in the opposite direction, with the inclination to the right of the thread output, the needle picks up 2-3 yarn on the surface of the water side of the product by 0.2-0.3 cm above the untreated cut and threads stretch through them.

Without changing the direction of the needle, left to right at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the first puncture of the needle and at the level of the first prolque needle picked up 2-3 threads on the front surface of the bending and through them stretching the thread.

So, alternating thread pickups from the bottom and from above, the cruciform stitches are paved.

Source - Magazine Crook and Sewing Bible

Manual seams are most often indispensable at the initial stage of manufacturing a product, for example, for a simple connection and fixing parts are temporary stitches, which are most often performed with contrasting threads, and, which, after performing all the necessary operations, simply are simply deleted.

Also stitches can be permanent purpose - to be used for, perform decorative function, etc. If you delve into the terminology, then the smallest manual sewing unit is the stitch, which is the finished weave of the threads or the thread between the punzes of the fabric or other material produced at some distance from each other with a needle. The stitches repeated on the material are called a line, and the line or lines superimposed for the bonding of two or several sections of the tissue are seam. The line during manual sewing is most often and is a seam, since in that case most of the seams consists of one single line. Below are the types of manual stitches and the lines that they form.

Straight hand stitches

Serve mainly for temporary connection and fixing parts at the initial stage of product preparation to fitting and adjustment, to the processing sewing machine. The following strates are performed by straight stitches:

Straight meat line

Direct twisted line (seam) - to perform a line (seam) parallel to the tissue slice or simply on the intended line of straight stitches.

Direct gaming line

Direct gaming line (seam) - to fasten two parts, different in size, most often the thread of contrasting color.

Direct taking line

Direct replacement line (seam) - for fixing beeble edges of parts (bottom of products and so on.)

Direct veneer line

Direct veneer line (seam) - to fix the edges of individual parts, which were previously connected (machine or manual line) and turned on the front side (valves, collar, cuffs).

Direct Copier (Silk)

Direct copying line (sinks) - to transfer control signs and chalk lines with one part to another. The stitches are not tightened, but form small loops - after the work is completed, the parts are equidically bred to the sides and cut the threads between them. For the remaining thread rips, chalk lines are carried out to create a circuit.

Direct assembly line

Direct assembly line - for the formation of assemblies, by laying one, and most often, two parallel direct strategies with further tighten the threads to the desired value.

Kosy manual stitches

There are more elastic connections, besides, they are stronger and in this connection are often used as temporary or permanent stitches. The following lines are performed by slash stitches:

Kosy gaming line

Decompoxy line (seam) - to obtain a stable connection of parts, with the exception of the possibility of their shift with the future processing process. Either to fix the upper part on the bottom with the landing (the upper collar on the bottom and so on.).

Oblique veneer line

The molding line (seam) is to temporarily process the edges of the parts, after performing the calculation of the machine line. Applicable in tissues without a picture, since with humid-thermal processing it does not exclude the possibility of distortion of the pattern.

Kosy roped line

Decoration line (seam) - to consolidate from cutting parts in order to prevent them from sinking. Especially relevant in the manufacture of products without lining.

Kosy Stritch

The skeleton line is to fasten parts on the surface in the form of basic and gasket tissue in order to increase their elasticity. At the same time, the upper part is pierced through, the bottom - only half of its thickness and the material of the upper part are slightly charged (lapel, collars, etc.). With proper execution on the front side of the upper part there should be no traces of stitches.

Decorate stitching

The oblique line is to fasten the adjacent edge of the workpiece with an open section of incistent or little bulk materials (mainly used in the manufacture of outerwear). There are open, secret and curly.

Decoration Stitch

Decoration line - to fasten the details of the jack in the locations of the break or the cut. Used mainly when repairing clothes from non-switching, dense materials. The material is pierced only half of the thickness - and from the front side such a line is invisible.

The third sewing lesson we will dedicate hand seams.

Product details are fasted using seams performed by one or more lines - near the repeated homogeneous stitches.

The lines can serve and decorative purposes - they are often used in the finish.

They must be even, with the same distances between the stitches both on the front side and in the wrong one, with evenly tightened threads.

Consider the main types of manual seams.

Reminds the machine line.

It is used for a permanent connection of two parts in places where machine execution is difficult, or in cases where it is required to obtain high-tensile seams.

There is no gap between stitches. Sew top down. The distance between the entrance and the release of the needle is 0.1-0.7 cm.

The injection is made in the exit place of the previous stitch.

Marking seam (Seam for a needle) perform the same as the barn, but with a distance between stitches.

A needle injection is made at half the distance between the input and the output of the previous stitch.

Racking seam

Racking seam Protects cuts from sprinkling parts.

There are several species.


Spit-raised seam Make through the edge.

The needle is introduced from the bottom up, the line is paved with riming left.

Conducting seam Perform the same as oblique, only in two directions.

At the same time, the thread does not disappear and the product is not rotated.

Loopedprocessing cuts in bulk fabrics.

The needle is introduced from top to bottom, the thread of the previous stitch lies under the needle. Locking a line from left to right.

Seam density - 2-3 stitches with a length of 0.4-0.6 cm per 1 cm fabric.

Cheerful seams It is used to label the edge of the product details (nose of the sleeve, the bottom of the skirt).

The cut is pre-prepared for launching.

First, it is sweeping the entire scapping on the bending and take a distance of 0.5-1 cm from the folding seam.

Then the slice is sweeping by 0.5-1 cm and take a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the second fold.

Wailed slice fit.

Cheerful seams aremultiple species.

Plain(open).

2-3 threads of the main detail came out of the fold of the needle, they make an injection and push the needle.

Seam density - 2-3 stitches per 1 cm fabric.

Secret shov.

The entire notable intake on the bending is flexion on the front side, a 0.2-0.3 cm of a fitted cut remains in withc.

The thread is fixed in the scapup to the bending, the needle is administered under the fold of the cruise edge and the main details are typing at it.

The line is paved on the right left. The thread is not tightened. Seam density - 2-3 stitches per 1 cm fabric.

Figured (cruciform) seam.

This seam is used when laminating nise products from dense incompatible tissues and as a finishing.

Seying left to right bottom up. The cut is open, the fabric is sweep only on the allowance.

The first injection is made in the main fabric near the cut, 2-3 threads are gaining on the needle so as not to pierce on the front side, the second injection for a scourge to the bend.

Seam density - 2-3 stitches for 1 cm fabric, stitch length - 0.4-0.7 cm.

Finishing seams

Finishing seams Use for decorating children's and women's clothing.

The most common ones are looping, tambour, a Christmas tree, a cross, a goat-cross, Merozka, "Monastery" (triangle).
The monastery is fixed by folds, pockets, lines, cuts.

The outline of the equilateral triangle is applied the mark.

The first stitch is made from one corner at the base of the triangle in its vertex, the second - from the top in the third angle, the following - from the third angle to the first next to the starting point of the seam and so on.

The thread is filadied tightly and with the same tension.

So fill the entire triangle.

For the strength from the inside, sew a piece of lining fabric.

a - looping

b - tambour,

in the Christmas tree,

g - Cross,

d - Kozlik-cross,

e - Merezhka,

All tailids want to sew the product quickly and efficiently. But as it often happens that when working on a sewing machine, one item is drawn relative to the other or, on the contrary, is going. Or with an example already ready-made clothes, it turns out that the product does not sit on the figure. Therefore, before starting to lay a typewriter, it is necessary to secure parts or some node before (valve or side angle) manual. Many people neglect with manual work because of laziness or speed, however, do not forget about the saying "you are going to go, then you will be"! The painful work with your hands, the easier, one or another node will be processed faster and better.

Types of hand stitches.

There are 7 types of manual stitches:

When performing manual stitches, you need to ensure that they are smooth and uniform, and the threads need to be tightened evenly.

Straight stitches

Straight - the simplest and very easily bloom. Used only for a while and with further processing are removed. The following lines are obtained from direct stitches.

Merital line

Two parts fold the front sides inside, equalizing sections or control lines, and we deposit direct stitches of 7-15 mm long - with a small slack of one of the parts, and 15-25 - without slack.

Such lines are used to connect side, shoulder cuts, etc.

Named line

One part is applied to another and connect them with straight stitches of 7-25 mm long - with a planting, and 25-50 mm without landing.

Used in the case when you need to connect two parts by imposing one to another, as well as for connecting small parts with large, for example, when you need overhead pockets, chain on the shelf, etc.

Mounting line

Scroll parts Conduct on the intended line and lay the line of direct stitches with a length of 10-30 mm.

It is used to temporarily fasten the adjacent cutting of the part (to take the bottom of the product, the bottom of the sleeves, etc.).

Return line

It is used to temporarily secure the distribution edge of the part in the manufacture of products from thin materials and striped materials and a cell (valve, collar, board, etc.). Stitch length - 7-10 mm. The line is paved from the side of the detail on which the seam reversal, that is, form a kant.

Kant is the distance from the edge to the seam.

Copy Stitch

Used to transfer lines with one part to another. Two identical parts are folded by the front sides inside, equalizing all sections, and on the outlined lines lay the line of straight unpaid stitches, while forming the loops with a height of 2-3 mm depending on the tissue thickness. Then the details are pushing, pulling the stitches, cut the stitch threads between the items. Stitch length 10-15 mm.

Line for assembly

For the formation of assemblies, two parallel lines of 3-7 mm long with a distance from the cutting part to the first line is 3-5 mm, between the lines of 1-4 mm. Scroll parts we are tightened with a thread on the desired value. The assembly formed is evenly distributed over the entire length.

Kosy stitches

Forming a stronger and elastic connection of materials than direct. Skew stitches perform lines of both temporary and permanent purpose.

  • The temporary line of oblique stitches include:

Named line

Replaces the stitching line with straight stitches, when it is required to obtain a more stable connection of parts, since oblique stitches do not allow one part relative to the other. For example, in details with landing - fees on the shelf, the upper collar on the lower, etc. Stitch length 7-20 mm.

Return line

Replaces the removable line with straight stitches for the details of all materials, except for thin swim fabrics and costume tissues in a strip. Bone stitches can distort the drawing, as a result of tightening it across the lines. For example: the edges of the valves, fees, etc., the exhaustion is made from the side of the part to which the seams are powered by forming a kant. Stitch length 7-10 mm.

  • The permanent line of oblique stitches includes:

Racking line

We protect cuts from sanding parts. (Lower cut of the product, sleeves, etc.) Stitch length 5-7 mm. Width 3-5 mm. Frequency stitches 3-4 per 1 cm.

Stritch

It is used to fasten the main and gasket fabric to increase the elasticity of the part (Laccan, the collar of the jacket). To perform it, the upper fabric, plugging, pierce through, and the lower, main, half thickness. As a result, the thread line with the front side is not visible. Stitch length 5-7 mm, 3-5 mm width. Distance between lines is 5-7 mm.

Cheerful line

It is used to continuously fix the adjacent edge of the part with an open untreated cut in thick tissues, as well as for the edges of the inner edges of the fees, etc. Switch width with an open section - 2-3 mm, with closed - 1 mm. The length stitch for the seam with an open section is 3-5 mm, to dry the edge 5-7 mm, to attach the inner edges of the part 4-10 mm.

Lines for invisible fastening parts

There are two types:

A) Stitching line - for an imperceptible connection of parts of the product from dense outbreakable tissues where accidentally cut or broke. Details have snacks, combining drawing. At a distance of 2-3 mm from the cut, the needle pierces the cloth half its thickness, is further introduced into the cut. The slice must be tightly connected stitches. With the front side, nothing should be visible. Stitch length 1-2 mm, frequency 5-7 stitches for 1 cm.

B) Flashing line - needed to make a small seam made on the sewing machine.

Cross-shaped stitches

Used to label the bottom of products. A feature of such stitches is the lack of threads on the face of the product. The bending can be performed in an open form on the edge or secret - inside the bending allowance. Conducting stitches can also be finishing lines. Clear and stitches width 5-7 mm.

Loop stitches

Apply for manual loops, as well as with decorative design of any parts, napkins, blankets. Make a loop line. Stitch size determines designer. When extincting loops, the stitches frequency 6-10 per every 10 mm, width 2-3 mm.

Loop-shaped stitches

Stitches give the most durable and elastic fastening of materials, and apply only for lines of permanent purpose.

The following lines are obtained from loop-shaped stitches:

Furious line

Used when finishing the edges of the parts of the jacket (sides, collar, bottoms, etc.) when they are fulfilled, stitch threads are placed inside the tissue fastening and the line is minor with the upper and lower side. Stitch length 3-4 mm.

Marking line

Need to connect several layers of fabric, if necessary, create a solid but elastic bond.

The needle pierces all the layers of the fabric. By making stitch, retreats back by 0.5 stitch from the execution side. From the front side imitates a mixture line. The length of the stitch is 1.5-2 cm. Used when marking a preach, flashing shoulder linings, etc.

Cheerful (Second) Stitch

It is this line that applies when "luxury processing" says. It's not easy, it is called "secret", it is not visible from the wrong, nor from the front side.

The needle is first introduced into the fold of the adjacent edge, and then at the level of the clarification, we make a puncture along the edge of the adjacent allowance for half the thickness of the fabric. Frequency stitches 3-4 per 1 cm. Used when the sleeve lining is needed or the bottom of the product and so on.

Stritch

In other words, it is also called "back needle." It mimics the machine line, and with one of the sides no different from her. It has a permanent purpose.

The needle punches through all the layers of the fabric, making a stitch, returns back to the previous puncture. The next puncture is done on the opposite side of the execution at a distance equal to two stitches and returns to the previous puncture again. Stitch length 3-5 mm.

Special stitches

Use when you need to make looping, buttons, hook or buttons.

Manual seams and stitches are most often used for needlework, embroidery. But often, without them, it is not for the sewing of clothes on the sewing machine. Each seam is sure to be able to perform hand stitches and various types of manual stitch, because without a conventional handheld needle, it is not necessary to do with the leisure of the details of clothing and carrying fittings.
Manual lines will be required when connecting laying materials with the main fabric of the product. A manual speed stitch join the skin of natural fur, for example, when sewing a fur mobby or fur vest.
When embroidered, a lot of species of special stitches are used. But, we suggest you to familiarize yourself with the main types and types of manual stitches and the lines used by sewing.


Any clothing is estimated before fitting. A rented handheld seam should well connect the details of the cut, and at the same time it is easy to flaw. It is these properties and possess manual stitches to descend the details of Croy. This is the most common manual stitch used by tailors.

Meritally hand stitches are also used to indicate the outletting line, folding folds and application of embossed lines.
The color of the thread for a residual stitch is desirable to use the contrast.

2. Manual oblique stitch, goat stitch


Tightened manual stitches are beaten fogging products with an open slice of non-empty fabrics. These stitches are performed through the edge. Thread should not be tightened. Such stitches can be performed invisible berving seams on the skirt, dress, etc.

The stitch of the cross is performed from left to right, forming a cross-shaped line.
Hand stitch with a cross has a lot of varieties and is often used for decorative purposes and manual embroidery.

3. The technique of performing a secret steer stitch


To make a secret stitch, the fabric at the edge edge is needed slightly. After that, to pierce the needle fabric to the desired depth (depending on the thickness of the tissue). Without withdrawing the needle to the other side to make a cross-cutting puncture of the bent edge of the fabric. Thread in stitches do not need to tighten, just slightly pull the excess threads. Secret steer stitch is recommended from left to right.

The secret stitches are connected to the lining with the product and bend the adjacent edges.

4. Raping, looped hand stitch


If your sewing machine does not pull the loop, then the loop on clothes can be done by hand loop stitches. Liner stitches are coated with the edges of the cutting loop, and also process the edges of the incompatible tissues, instead of processing overlock.

Most often, the revision stitch is used as one of the types of manual stitch used to coop the cut of the loop. The fabric must be pumped by 2-3 mm from the cutting line and make a loop, throwing the thread behind the needle. Such a seam can be made of decorative trim of leather souvenirs, homemade carpets, etc.

5. Hand stitches "Back Needle"


Manual seam consisting of such stitches is considered the most durable among all types of manual seams. It is advisable to apply it when you need to restore the machine seam in hard-to-reach places. It is convenient for them when you need to attach a slap to the seam allowances in products from thin tissues. Such a seam can be sewn by hand the zipper zipper, etc.

Hand stitch "Back Needle" is performed on the right left. Make a small stitch, enter the needle into the fabric, to the right of the point in which the thread comes out of the fabric.

6. Types of stitches. Hand Stitch "Flower"

This is a professional seam of the tailor, used when sewing the outerwear, headwear from fur. Such manual seam is used by tailors for imperceptible sewing, fixing the parts of the outerwear, such as the admission of a male jacket, coat. It is also used in the manufacture of fur collars. The needle on the front side captures barely noticeable portion of the fabric, and on the inside the capture of the needle is made on the entire width of the stitch.


As well as for sewing clothes on a sewing machine, for handmade there is a whole arsenal of sewing needles. For different types of works and materials, needles of the appropriate size and type are used. For light and thin tissues, you need to use sharp and thin needles.


Manual stitches can be used in those places where the sewing machine cannot make a line. There are either passing stitch, or thread rushes. Leave this area and continue to sew zipper. Pick up the needle and the same threads that they stand in the coil on the typewriter, make a machine stitch imitation with a manual line.


Manual stitches when sewing curtains are not used. Curtains should have only a machine line everywhere. Manual lines made by even an experienced craftswoman will always be different from neatly shifted machine lines.


Sew jeans can not be on any sewing machine. The sewing machine breaks the needle on coarse, folded in four layers, jeans sites. It's time to remember about manual lines and sunk jeans one of these hand stitches.


When sewing covers, it is sometimes necessary to protect the inner edges from the "rash" of the fabric. Strongly loose tissue after washing the cover can be "sprawling". So that this does not happen, use manual stitch to coop the edge of the fabric. Wide, not too frequent stitches, strengthen the cut edges of the details of the covers.