“Wanting to be someone else is losing yourself.”
Kurt Cobain
Rebellion and protest, the desire to destroy stereotypes and break the usual foundations, the denial of norms and rules - the grunge subculture arose in opposition to everything verified and correct, in defiance of conformism. Representatives of the grunge musical movement, which emerged in the 90s last year in Seattle (USA), demonstrated complete indifference to the opinions of others, and emphasized it, among other things, with the help of their manner of dressing. Decades later, the grunge style of clothing continues to be associated with protest - but today it is rather a protest against the dominance of glamor in the fashion world.
Grunge initially emerged as a musical trend, its main representatives - the underground groups Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Alice in chains, Soundgarden - preached a special style of outlook and behavior - daring and at the same time depressive, aggressive and reckless. The founder of the grunge style in clothing, without a doubt, can be called the frontman of Nirvana and the main ideologist of marginal chic, Kurt Cobain - his checkered flannel shirts and ripped jeans, stretched sweaters and worn sneakers became the most iconic items of the grunge wardrobe.
Cobain's talent and charisma brought him worldwide fame; an army of fans of his music copied his marginal style, making it a street fashion trend. Freedom of expression, freedom from conventions - this is the grunge style in clothing.
The bridge from street to high fashion for the grunge style was paved by Marc Jacobs, a master of provocation and unconventional aesthetics. His 1993 collection was a bombshell - models dressed, some critics said, like orphans or homeless people from Brooklyn; clothes as if from someone else’s shoulder; accessories that looked like they were purchased at a second-hand store left no one indifferent. Despite conflicting reviews, it was with this collection that the real era of grunge in fashion began, which lasted almost a decade.
Grunge today is a revolt against glamor
Today, the grunge style in clothing has ceased to be a distinctive feature of a certain subculture - rather, it is chosen by those who want to make a statement and stand out from the crowd, who are tired of the excessive sweetness of glamor. It would be more correct to call this trend neo-grunge: the carelessness and shabbyness of clothes are no longer real, but skillfully created by designers, the fabrics are expensive and of high quality. Its characteristic features can be considered:
Iconic grunge wardrobe staples:
- Flannel. It can be worn unbuttoned, over a printed T-shirt, buttoned up tightly, or simply tied around the waist.
- Plain chunky knit sweaters.
- Ripped jeans (not necessarily baggy, skinny jeans with slits at the knees today can safely be called an attribute of the grunge style).
- , decorated with rivets.
- (canonical model - black and white Converse Chuck Taylor).
- in army style on a heavy “tractor” sole.
- Wide straps with rivets.
- Bulky knitted hats.
- Printed T-shirts.
- Knitted dresses.
Sequins, rhinestones, floral patterns, animal prints, stiletto heels, and bright, cheerful shades are strictly unacceptable. It is worth noting that all items are easily combined with each other, creating the necessary layering.
Hair and makeup
However, the image will not be complete without some makeup and hairstyle in the grunge style: classic hairstyle and make-up will be inappropriate here.
Hairstyles in the grunge style are, first of all, straight, flowing hair without visible traces of styling, as well as a careless bun or ponytail. Designers create the illusion of unkempt hair on models dismantling grunge-style clothes using dry shampoos and matte powder. Makeup in the grunge style is either its complete absence (which, however, can be masterfully simulated), emphasizing the pallor of the skin, or deliberately careless black smokey eyes, or dark (purple, wine, burgundy or even black) lipstick as the only accent on the face .
Marginal chic: several looks in rebellious style
By combining basic grunge style clothing with suitable accessories, you can create many non-trivial sets:
Grunge is definitely not for everyone - it takes a certain amount of courage to challenge stereotypes. Forget at least for a while about fashion laws and don’t be afraid to show your individuality, because the main thing in grunge clothing is the person who wears it.
What do “worn jeans”, a sweater from someone else’s shoulder, a grandmother’s dress, torn stockings and massive shoes have in common? "Grunge" in clothing - the style of second-hand and consignment stores. It combines the incompatible, it is cheap and convenient.
As a style, it grew out of a musical subculture. In the eighties of the 20th century in America, in particular in Seattle, against the backdrop of crisis and rejection of material excesses, a new direction in music arose, which was a mixture of punk, heavy metal and rock and roll. It was called “grunge”. The most famous performers are Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Alice in Chains.
Fans and designers quickly picked up the musicians' image, and grunge took its place in the fashion world. But still, any style carries a philosophy. Unlike punk or hippies, grunge is very much about personal expression. Often this is a depressed mood, sadness, disappointment, loneliness.
Real “grungeists” put true spiritual values first, not material wealth. They deny glamor and luxury. If their position is close to you in spirit, if your worldview coincides with the philosophy of grunge, then this style is just asking to be added to your wardrobe.
His idea is simple - cheap clothes and accessories. Clothing is needed only for warmth and protection of the body, it is practical and comfortable. The main rule is carelessness, layering.
The main color scheme of the wardrobe is dark, faded, muted tones. Choose things in dark green, indigo, maroon, brown, and gray. Black and white colors are also favorites; they are believed to give the image a sad and depressed look.
What should be in a grunge style wardrobe?
The most essential and recognizable style item is the faded plaid flannel shirt. It can be worn over clothes or simply tied on a belt.
A cardigan can only compete with a plaid shirt - in the grunge style it is “old, huge and musty.” Its overly large model has a shabby appearance, eaten away by moths in places. The sleeves are long - to the fingertips. Therefore, gloves are not needed, sleeves do this role, just put your hands in them.
T-shirts with short and long sleeves are used to create layers. They are decorated with logos, images of musicians or phrases with pessimistic or apathetic connotations. The print should look old, cracked, worn out.
T-shirts should not look new either; stretched, faded, oversized items are welcome. In the summer version, T-shirts may be torn and with frayed edges.
Nowadays, sweatshirts would also be appropriate. For the warm season - made of light fabric, which is worn under a short-sleeved T-shirt. For cold weather, choose a sweatshirt made of warm material with a hood and wear it over your clothes.
Of course, you can’t do without torn, worn, baggy jeans; in the summer it can be shorts. New jeans are deliberately distressed, cut and torn. Some craftsmen soak them in bleach for several hours and then dry them. This procedure causes the fabrics to fade in color and appear more worn.
Girls have a place for dresses in their grunge style wardrobe. These can be long, loose models, made of cotton and most often having a floral pattern, called “granny dresses”. These can also be short silk slip dresses with frayed fabric, worn with torn tights or leggings.
After Kurt Cobain (Nirvana) and Eddie Vedder (Pearl Jam) appeared on stage in kilts, grunge fans could not ignore this innovation and the “grungeist”’s wardrobe was replenished with a kilt. The length of the kilt is just above the knee. Mini models for women are considered indecent and go against the philosophy of style.
Shoes
In this style, shoes perform a functional role - they must keep feet dry. Since the upper body is voluminous due to the multi-layered clothing, it needs to be balanced. Therefore, choose tall and chunky boots or boots that wrap around the ankle and have a flat sole. These can be high-top sneakers, combat boots or tennis shoes in red, blue, dark green and black. At the same time, they are worn with both jeans and dresses. There is no place for shiny shoes here; they should be old and shabby.
Accessories
For the grunge style, clothing accessories are unnecessary, unnecessary expenses. But you can’t do without a headdress. A baseball cap or beanie in dark colors can keep your head warm. Are they not suitable for you? Then wrap a faded scarf around your neck. You can also complement your look with a leather backpack.
The only decoration that does not carry any functional load is the leather straps wrapped around the wrist. If you have pierced ears, then opt for simple, not too shiny, earrings.
Hair and makeup
Representatives of this rebellious style wear long hair. They should look untidy, as if a comb has never touched them. Any hairstyle is unacceptable, the way the hair lays down is how the image turned out. You can decorate them with beads, braids or make dreadlocks. It is not prohibited to bleach or dye your hair different colors. Particularly chic when the hair roots grow back. Don’t rush to paint over them, this is one of the calling cards of “grunge”.
There is practically no makeup. The maximum is eyeliner and mascara. After applying makeup, shade it. Lipstick is chosen in bright red or dark burgundy tones.
Grunge in men's clothing
The grunge style is unisex. Almost all clothing and accessories are suitable for both men and women.
If we talk about men's fashion, then the “king of style” is the same flannel shirt. It is worn untucked into trousers, over a T-shirt or tank top. The pattern on the shirt is a large check, the colors are muted. For the shirt, flannel fabric is used, but a model made from cotton fabric or with the addition of wool is also possible.
Another important element is jeans. Wide model with ruffled slits. Or knee-length shorts. When it’s cold, add a sweatshirt in dark colors with a hood and a cracked print, as well as a biker jacket, to your wardrobe. Complete the look with a small hat, scarf and high-top lace-up sneakers or combat boots.
Style clothing combinations
Grunge is a “hodgepodge” where clothes with different textures, colors and patterns are combined. Without really thinking about whether they look harmonious with each other. This is the main idea of style - a protest against fashion trends. Each person dresses the way he wants, according to his own worldview. He is indifferent to the opinions of others.
Grunge opened the doors to old things, into which it breathed new life. This is a style of times of crisis; it is not for nothing that it has returned again in our turbulent times.
Grunge equals rebels. YOUNG people love to rebel, including in their clothes. She always protested against the averageness of life and personality, and strived to be “not like everyone else.” This was expressed in music, youth subcultures and, of course, in clothing. What, if not clothes, can most clearly demonstrate “otherness” and emphasize originality? But what is grunge style fashion?????
He was a protest from the very beginning. Reluctance to pay attention to “little things”, such as, for example, the style and quality of a suit. regular jeans, old and worn, topped with your favorite worn shirt, faded T-shirt or elongated sweater and you are ready to conquer the world. It all looked rather repulsive, but, in fact, this is what grunge means in American slang. The very word grunge in American slang is something unpleasant, repulsive and disgusting. The trend is eclectic, combines a variety of textures, denies generally accepted stereotypes and combines different fashion trends.
Historically, the grunge style originates in America, the city of Seattle. After all, its bright representatives Nirvana, Pearl Jeam and others appeared there. Grunge music appeared in the 80s. Kurt Cobain began to personify the trend and style icon among teenagers. This gave impetus to the formation of the grunge style in clothing.
And grunge became a subculture in the 90s. He became incredibly fashionable. The emergence of unusual forms, ideas and images was determined by the desire of the younger generation to stand out, to be different from those around them, and also to show the whole world their personal individuality. The founder of this style of clothing can be called the famous designer Marc Jacobs. In 1993, he presented the world with original images that combined light dresses with floral patterns and massive boots, worn-out jeans and stretched sweaters. He was the first to fill the catwalk with homeless-looking models. As they say, “Marc Jacobs’ models emphasized that the spiritual, gentlemen, is much more important than the material. And accordingly, clothes should not be taken seriously. Wear something, somehow, to protect your body from the cold. And appearance doesn’t matter.”
His collection was a success and a bomb effect. But only the audience of the show saw it. But the next day, when fashion magazines were full of photographs from the show, the grunge style of clothing really “blew up” the fashion world. It was immediately dubbed “marginal chic” and everyone wanted to live up to it.
It became the opposite of luxury, pomp and pathos.
The popularity of the style is due to the combination of several trends. It contains elements of hippie and punk culture. Characteristic features of the trend are considered to be negligence, the presence of holes, scuffs and patches on denim clothing, loose loops and protruding threads on jackets and sweaters, multi-layering and eclecticism.
What can you wear in this style????
- jeans– frayed, with cuts, with raw edges;
- shirts– with holes and patches;
- knitted sweaters with skipped loops and long elongated sleeves;
- worn t-shirts
- wrinkled dresses and torn skirts
- men's style shoes, sneakers
But now, grnage is a fashion trend, and it has its own rules!
how to dress in grunge style?? Grunge style clothing should be:
- new,
- clean,
- made from good quality fabrics,
- but at the same time look like an old woman.
Excellent quality and ugliness is the motto of grunge.
All effects, scuffs and tears are just an artificial effect. Worn shoes are an effect. Unwashed hair is an effect created using a special gel. Eclecticism in the combination of costume details is a special effect, a statement that one can be happy not only by following the rules and observing aesthetic standards.
Women's clothing in the grunge style has elements of sensual maturity and acts as a provocation. It emphasizes sexuality, combined with hidden aggression. The clothes look sloppy, but neat, a little arrogant, but not aimless. Women's clothes are very different from men's style, as they carry a gender accent.
The main part of a woman's grunge wardrobe is denim, which should be dirty gray, ruffled or faded black. The fabric should look absolutely worn to the point of holes and as shabby as possible. A straight or tapered cut is preferred. The grunge style is inspired by images of bad girls with a bright future. The easy game of rebellion is designed to help show your individuality without overstepping the bounds of decency.
layering in clothes. To do this, wear a sweater or shirt over your T-shirt. In this case, each previous detail should casually peek out from under the next one. It’s good if they are different and do not harmonize with each other.
Grunge style shoes
As already said, there is a complete ridiculousness here, but one of many in this style is shoes with wide tops. as if several sizes larger than the owner’s leg. Army motifs in grunge shoes are no less relevant. Boots or boots made in a military style look great. Grunge style of clothing allows you to wear such strange shoes.
Shoes in this style also have rock and punk style details such as pins, zippers and rivets.
Shabby sneakers of discreet colors, which can be either high or low, are also perfect. Lace-up shoes, reminiscent of men's boots, look great. Gorgeous chic will create the effect of shoes worn on bare feet.
Hairstyles in grunge style for women
grunge hair? What's new here? external hair not being well-groomed. But remember, this is just an effect. styling in grunge style is still styling, and not just a dirty head.
The strands should look uncombed, slightly unwashed, a little shaggy, a greasy effect is welcome. The basis of the trend is loose, unsecured hair. But this does not mean that you need to go without washing your hair for a month.
Hair length and hair color may vary. It’s not at all difficult to create a grunge hairstyle yourself.
Natural shades and bleached blonde are welcome. Such careless details as overgrown roots or faded colored strands fit well into the image.
The most popular hairstyle is a tousled ponytail or bun with strands falling out. grunge women's haircuts for medium hair are diverse!
Asymmetry in haircuts is also typical. Women with short hair are recommended to do wet styling.
Grunge style makeup focuses on the lips. For this, red or dark lipstick is suitable, which should stand out on a pale face. At the same time, there is practically no eye makeup.
Ideally, no makeup. It is acceptable to use a face tone, but it should be very light. No tan. In some options, light eye makeup is allowed. For example, in cases where eyelashes and eyebrows are too light.
The grunge style is often confused with boho and hippie styles, because... there are common features. In these styles, there is opposition to fashion and protest to the crowd. Emphasis on individuality! There is a place for creativity, shockingness, catchiness, and exclusivity. And also convenience. The difference is that in the grunge style, an item, even if bought at a second-hand store, must be of excellent quality, and not just cheap and environmentally friendly, like hippies. Boho has a place of luxury that is impossible in grunge.
Which celebrities love grunge style?
Of course, women's favorite is Johnny Depp.
Shakira, Taylor Momsen, Alice Dellal, Pixie Geldof, Ruby Aldridge. Their images are not “pure” grunge, but rather a symbiosis of different trends.
The grunge style denies classical tenets, glamor and luxury. Its founder is considered to be Kurt Cobain, who exploded public morality not only with incendiary music, but also with daring clothes. It was at his instigation that ripped jeans, frayed jackets and flannel shirts came into fashion. From the outside, the grunge style in clothing seems like something from the nearest trash heap, but upon closer inspection, you can recognize expensive brands from famous fashion houses. Quite recently, only young people flaunted stretched sweaters, torn tights, sundresses with a stretched hem, but now the trend has captivated fashionistas who have crossed the age of 40.
The grunge style combines several trends that complement each other. It combines notes of hard rock, simplicity of hippie culture, softness of software, elements of vintage and military. Most often, dark and light colors, natural fabrics without glitter and tinsel predominate. Small patterns and checkered designs are welcome.
All components of the grunge style in clothing create a single image, although they seem incompatible with each other. They select an outfit according to the unity of fabric, texture, silhouette, prints, complementing with accessories.
Main features of the style:
- multi-layering - several things are selected for the exit, each layer should look out from the previous one. For example, first a stretched T-shirt, sweater, vest, and a long scarf will complete the look;
- a combination of unsuitable things in style. It is difficult to draw the line between military and grunge, so it is allowed to use things of different styles;
- comfort - grunge clothes are comfortable to wear and do not cause discomfort. Nothing can throw followers of the style out of balance, and torn edges of shirts and holes in tights become the “highlight” of the look;
- natural fabrics - clothes in the grunge style create the appearance of a beggar in items from expensive brands;
- muted tones - it is allowed to use a palette of white, muted blue, gray brown, black. The style excludes neon shades and bright prints;
- patches and holes - abrasions, pilling, and tears are considered a sign of style.
Adherents of the grunge style discard everything shiny that distracts attention from a person. There should be no rhinestones, decorations or embroidery on clothing. Grunge did not remain in the past along with the rock culture of the 90s. It continues to develop, giving a person the right to self-expression, allowing him to stand out among the gray crowd. The style has divided into several directions, giving you the opportunity to choose a suitable image for yourself.
Types of grunge style:
- Rock grunge is a challenge to glamour. The wardrobe contains only branded items made from high-quality materials, but with patches, scuffs, and holes. Suitable for women who prefer strictness in their clothes, without challenging society. The basic item is leggings or jeans, complemented by shirts and jumpers;
- soft grunge is a softened version of the style. Jeans and shorts are worn with dark ripped tights; short skirts with plaid prints are allowed. It is interesting to combine tight tops and corsets, wear a checkered kilt over skinny ones;
- punk grunge - will appeal to extravagant youth. The wardrobe is complemented with leather clothing and rough accessories. An example would be the combination of a short fluffy skirt with army boots or a chiffon dress with a leather jacket;
- neo - maturity combined with romance for creative people. Chiffon shirts instead of traditional flannel, tied at the waist, will add subtlety to the look. Fashionistas choose T-shirts, loose trousers, skirts with floral patterns;
- post – fashionable and expensive things. Multi-layering is not encouraged here, although other differences of grunge remain - crooked edges of clothes, army boots, ripped jeans.
Representatives of the grunge style are wealthy, educated people who can afford to wear branded clothing, artificially aged or torn.
Wardrobe elements
For girls, the grunge style in clothing becomes not only a sign of negligence, but also carries a gender accent. Provocativeness, aggression, appeal are the hallmarks of grunge lovers.
To create a wardrobe, follow the rules:
- jeans are tight or loose, but always have holes;
- tights with holes and arrows;
- torn hems of dresses;
- distressed denim jackets with a worn and greasy effect;
- leather jackets have an abundance of metal rivets and spikes;
- large check flannel shirts;
- stretched sweaters, jumpers several sizes larger, gray or marsh-colored chunky knit items are in fashion;
- T-shirts made of faded fabric with large prints, the obligatory elongated collar of the product;
- loose-fitting straight T-shirts decorated with abstractions, skulls, and stickers;
- the set combines several inappropriate items from different styles;
- Threads stick out from clothes, unevenly processed edges, broken rivets are visible.
Men's clothing style does not always imply classics; many people prefer the looseness and comfort of grunge. For a party or friendly gatherings, it is preferable to wear ripped jeans, complementing the look with a stretched T-shirt and a checkered flannel shirt; a long knitted jumper in gray or blue is also suitable.
Popular colors and combination rules
In the grunge style, things look beautiful in muted shades of gray, marsh, khaki, red, dark blue, bottle, black.
Rules for combining things:
- Ripped and distressed jeans look stylish with any outerwear. Summer option - shorts with torn edges over tights with arrows;
- leather skirts, leggings, pants in brown or black with a dusty or worn effect;
- leather jackets with stripes and metal details. The jacket will complement light dresses, sundresses, T-shirts and tank tops;
- Denim jackets also go well with chiffon dresses and skirts. Denim should be artificially aged or decorated with broken rivets;
- straight-cut T-shirts with stretched hems. Choose dark shades of burgundy, rich blue or black;
- shirts are plain or large checkered. The product shows stains, abrasions, holes, and patches. The sleeves can be rolled up or left loose. Be sure to have a stretched T-shirt or T-shirt visible from under your shirt;
- knitted or denim short sundresses are combined with T-shirts and shirts. Small patterns on fabric or embroidery are allowed;
- Light dresses with floral patterns are worn with faded T-shirts and leather jackets. It combines the delicacy of chiffon with the roughness of the rest of the wardrobe.
Stripes have become a fashionable print this season. Skirts, dresses, T-shirts and tights are decorated with stripes of different widths. Women with large figures should opt for a strip no more than a centimeter wide, complementing the look with two vertical lines - a tied scarf over a shirt or jewelry.
Selection of shoes and accessories
All grunge style shoes are made from genuine leather, painted black with an artificially created scuffed effect. Products are decorated with rivets, metal inserts, and spikes. Low and high heels are allowed, the main rule is to wear shoes on bare feet.
Examples of grunge shoes:
- ankle boots - most often made in black, although there are interesting combinations of several shades. A high, stable heel, a textured sole, and a wide zipper on the shoes will complement the stylish look;
- army boots with chunky soles and laces are suitable for wearing by a man in a grunge style. Although girls also like to wear ankle boots with light dresses. In summer, they prefer worn-out sneakers or trainers;
- sandals with low, stable heels or “ballet flats” are chosen by women of advanced age, abandoning the heavy platform.
In the grunge style, accessories are used in minimal quantities. Several large bracelets or rings and glasses with specific frames are allowed. Instead of a flirty handbag, style followers recommend wearing torn bags with stickers or disproportionate, worn-out backpacks.
Grunge style involves wearing comfortable things made from quality materials. Layering, combining several wardrobe items, and avoiding glamor are the main features of the style. Grunge things are appreciated by free people, independent of the opinions of society.
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Before I talk about the style itself, I’ll delve a little into the history of its origins.
Why is it important? Style does not appear on its own - it is a reflection of social, cultural and economic phenomena. Today there is no dictatorship of fashion, but a trend is also a response to some request of society.
How will this information help you? If you are drawn to a certain style, then having learned the history of its origin, you will understand what internal needs it meets. Or, conversely, knowing your inner request, you can choose a style.
So what is “grunge”? First of all, this is a style in music that appeared in the late 90s. And the translation of this word is “dirt” to refer to the musical sound.
As a result, the “icons” of this style are musicians of rock bands playing “grunge” music. For example, Courtney Love and Kurt Cobain.
What's the trick? These were musicians from Seattle who did not have special costumes and went on stage as they were, i.e. in what they usually wore.
Therefore, the constant attributes of this style are: checkered flannel shirts, jeans and comfortable shoes.
With this style you declare: I don’t care what you think about me, I’m comfortable with it.
So, what is important for you to know if you decide to turn to the grunge style?
1. This style is careless, and not like Casual, but generally careless, careless.
2. Convenience comes first.
3. Modern grunge is very different from what it was 20 years ago. It is much more elegant and neat, now, this is not a sharp protest, but rather an irony over fashion.
And, most importantly, what distinguishes grunge from other “comfortable” styles is that it is the style of bad boys and girls, so you should have it in your character sex drugs & rock-n-roll or at least rock and roll.
If you decide to master this style, then you should get:
- jeans, preferably worn and torn, shorts
- chunky knit sweaters
- checked flannel shirts, and you can wear them tied at the hips
- rough, comfortable shoes
- leather jackets
- sundresses, overalls
- floral dresses
- black skirts
- T-shirts with prints
- knee socks, preferably also torn.
The colors are often dark and rich (and plaid, plaid, plaid... I love it). Fabrics are mainly natural.
As you understand, the style is based on negligence, so add to this:
- torn edges
- dropped hinges
- clothes and shoes with a worn effect
- clothes that look like they came from someone else’s shoulder
- multi-layering.
The hairstyle also reflects casualness, usually with loose hair in the “I just wash my hair and go” style.
Makeup is either dark or absent.
Accessories:
- hats or caps
- small and discreet decorations. You're not trying.
- heavy shoes, but there may also be sneakers.
- backpacks or bags. Usually made of leather.
This is, if in its “classic” form. In fact, take what you want. This is grunge - everything is possible here:
"Grunge" and other styles
Since one of the distinctive features of this style is eclecticism, in the style itself you can find elements of punk, ethno and country. Hence, it goes very well with other styles, making them informal.
Grunge and punk or gothic
Grunge is often confused with boho, hippie, country, because it often includes features of these styles, but it is always more "daring".
Grunge and casual. By dosing the number of elements from the grunge style, you can completely fit into the urban style, without expressed protest.
A striking example is my favorite Jenny Humphrey from the TV series Gossip Girl. In one of the seasons they used such a “combed” grunge.
Some people believe that grunge and glamor elements are not compatible, because grunge is anti-glamor, but it just seems to me that this is the real thrill - the heightened contradiction that I love so much in style and in life.
As you can see, this style loves experiments. So, choose what you like and wear with pleasure.
