Designers are those authorities in the fashion industry who dictate fashion standards to us and determine trends. Each designer is famous and recognizable for something different, and each has a special, unique style. Some of these people become real legends in the world of fashion and style. How did they do it? Maybe they are just darlings of fate - or is behind this the desire to make their dream come true and a gigantic amount of work? What made them famous?
Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel (Coco Chanel)
Probably everyone knows the famous Mademoiselle today. They quote her, they strive to imitate her. She had a huge influence on the fashion of the 20th century, founded the Chanel fashion house, and gave the world her signature perfumes under numbers. Coco got her nickname when she sang in a cabaret. She was an extraordinary, brave and bright personality, with great willpower and impeccable taste. We owe to her the modernization of women's fashion, the borrowing of many elements from the men's wardrobe, the popularity of the universal little black dress, pearls, tweed suits, small hats, jewelry and tanning.
Coco Chanel made luxury practical. Most of all, she valued comfort in clothing and embodied this principle in her collections. She said that “luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury.” Among Mademoiselle's clients and acquaintances there were many world celebrities. In one interview, when asked what events in her life aroused her interest in art, she answered: “Living in an orphanage under the supervision of nuns, I learned to sew. They taught me basic seamstress skills, and I was already smart enough to understand the method. I really got my hand and focus on design at an early age, which is why I had big-name clients so quickly.”
Chanel opened her first store in 1910 in Paris. They sold hats there. Later, clothes also appeared in her stores. Interestingly, the very first clothing Chanel created was a dress made from a sweater. People paid attention to her outfit and asked where she bought it, and in response, Coco offered to make the same outfit for those who were interested. She later said that her condition was "based on an old sweater that I wore because it was cold in Deville."
Karl Lagerfeld
One of the most influential fashion designers, a man of phenomenal efficiency, a multifaceted nature, the owner of many talents. This world-famous designer of German origin has led the Chanel fashion house since 1983. In addition, Karl is a designer and founder of his own fashion brand, a talented photographer, director, owner of a publishing house and a personal library of 300 thousand volumes. Lagerfeld says about himself: “I’m like a chameleon, several people live inside me at the same time. Creating for me is like breathing. I don't even think about it. When I sit in the Chanel director's chair, I am Chanel. When I go to Rome and I am in the House of Fendi, I am Fendi. I start working on a new collection the day before the previous one is shown.”
His creative abilities manifested themselves in early childhood. He studied at the Lycée Montaigne at the Syndicate of Haute Couture on the same course as Yves Saint Laurent. Lagerfeld collaborated with a large number of famous fashion houses, creating fragrances, lines of ready-to-wear clothing, shoes, and accessories. After he created his first fur collection for Fendi in 1966, which was a huge success, he attracted the attention of the most influential people in the fashion world.
In the 70s, Lagerfeld began collaborating with famous directors and creating costumes for actors at La Scala. He breathed a new breath of life into the Chanel fashion house, becoming its leader and designer, saying: “Yes, she said that fashion dies, but style is immortal. But style must adapt, adapt to fashion. Chanel had her own life. Great career. It's over. I did everything to make it last, and continue to do so that it lasts forever. My main task is to try to transpose what she did into today. Guess what she would do if she lived here now, if Mademoiselle were in my place.”
Friends call Karl the Kaiser (Caesar, in German) for his amazing ability to do several things at once. He hides his age and worries that there is not enough life to realize all his creative ideas. Lagerfeld loves books (he even created the Paper Passion fragrance with the smell of a freshly printed book), draws illustrations for works, cannot imagine life without photography, sews costumes for cinema and theater, produces perfumes, runs his own brand, creates hotel designs, makes short films and organizes exhibitions, produces women's collections.
Elsa Schiaparelli
A famous Italian designer of the first half of the 20th century, who is considered a surrealist from the fashion world, the main rival of Chanel, the creator of the ready-to-wear style. Elsa was born into an aristocratic family, from childhood she studied painting, art history, and loved the theater. While working as a tour guide in Paris, Elsa observed how the wives of wealthy Americans were least interested in architecture and most interested in fashion stores. Presumably, it was then that she came up with the idea of shocking the public with unusual clothes.
Having met an emigrant from Armenia, whose knitted sweater Elsa liked so much, she persuaded her to create unusual clothing models together. The fruit of their labors was a very unusual black wool dress with a bow in the shape of a butterfly. Thanks to their work, they attracted attention and received a large order from the sportswear store Strauss. It was this order that brought fame to Schiaparelli and the knitwear factory to the Armenian diaspora. Elsa founded her own fashion house. As she originally intended, she shocked the public with her collections. They embodied her wildest fantasies and dreams, expressing something irrational and incomprehensible. Every item was unique. Many were created in a single copy. Hearts, constellations, hugging arms, snakes, giant flies, unusual designs, embroidery and fancy accessories - all this attracted attention and shocked.
It was Elsa who first invented the concept of “boutique” (a store that sells small series of designer clothes). Many celebrities collaborated with Elsa and gladly purchased her clothes. Schiaparelli had a contract with Hollywood. She was friends with Salvador Dali (it was he who gave her the idea for a dress with lobster and parsley and a phone bag). Under the influence of Dali, Elsa created her most unusual things: a hat in the shape of a shoe or an inkwell, gloves with pockets for matches. Costume jewelry was the embodiment of the strangest ideas; lollipops, medicines, erasers, feathers, pencils, and dried beetles were used as materials.
Elsa often called her fashion house crazy. The popularity of Schiaparelli's collections was enormous; everyone wanted to have these strange clothes, even the Duchess of Windsor herself. But when she had to leave for the United States due to the outbreak of World War II, it was as if they had forgotten about her. Upon returning to Paris in 1944, her style was no longer in demand. Chanel dominated the fashion scene and Elsa decided to leave the fashion world.
Both talented women were fashion innovators, but very different. Chanel created within the framework of the classics, without focusing on brightness and catchiness. Elsa was extravagant, loved to shock and provoke. The contribution of both to fashion is undoubtedly invaluable, although the Schiaparelli brand has not existed for a long time. Elsa's ideas and discoveries can be seen embodied in modern fashion, as if she was ahead of her time. Unusual color combinations, fuchsia (shocking pink - this is also Schiaparelli’s idea!), bottles in the shape of a female body, fur shoes, ankle boots, unusual bags - all these are the ideas of the talented Elsa, who had a huge influence on the world of fashion and style .
Christian Dior
One of the most famous French fashion designers, to whom we owe ultra-feminine new-look dresses. He had artistic talent, and in his youth he dreamed of becoming a great artist. After his private Art Gallery went bankrupt, he experienced difficult times, poverty and unemployment, but fate seemed to be preparing a different path for him. He began to design theatrical costumes and draw sketches for French fashion magazines. And these sketches became incredibly popular, he began to collaborate with the fashion department of the Figaro newspaper, and he was noticed. I decided to specialize in clothing models, although sketches of hat models were much more popular. Dior was noticed by the famous fashion designer Piguet, but because of the war, Dior's career did not start then.
Upon returning from the army, Christian began working at the famous fashion house Lucien Lelong, where he learned a lot. In 1946, thanks to funding from a textile magnate, Dior's fashion house opened in Paris. At the age of 42, he became famous; his first collection, which he himself called “Crown Line,” was considered revolutionary and was a resounding success. Just imagine the post-war period, when women were so yearning for beauty and sophistication, for emphatically feminine and luxurious outfits. Dior, incredibly sensitive and talented, felt the mood of society, its desires and dreams. Parisian women were so tired of masculine jackets and short skirts that they greeted Dior's collection with delight. Feminine silhouettes, luxurious and bright fabrics, cinched waists, ankle-length skirts (either full or straight), small round shoulders - everything in this collection was the very embodiment of traditional femininity and charm.
But not everything was so rosy. Feminists criticized the collection, saying that the return to crinolines and corsets testified to the oppression of working women. Many believed that after the war, luxury and brightness were inappropriate and blasphemous. However, despite the criticism, the new look captivated the public. Dior's popularity was stunning; his name became associated with luxury and good taste. Each of his collections was awaited with bated breath, and each was a success.
It was only in 1954 that there was a slightly dangerous moment for Dior’s career, when Chanel returned to the fashion arena, who could not stand the “horrors of the 50s,” as she spoke of Dior’s models. But Dior very intelligently came out of the situation by releasing a new collection, light and relaxed. Different than before, but still just as feminine. Silhouettes were more natural, lines softened. Dior’s personal assistant once said after the great couturier’s death that “if Dior had lived, fashion would not be in such a deplorable state as it is now.”
Yves Saint Laurent
One of the leading fashion designers of the 20th century, whom Christian Dior chose as his successor. Since childhood, he drew and loved the theater, made home puppet shows, glued costumes and painted scenery. Laurent worked as an assistant to Dior and was fascinated by his genius, and Dior, in turn, immediately recognized the young man as a future master.
At the age of 21, Laurent becomes the head of one of the most famous fashion houses after the sudden death of Dior and literally saves the brand from financial ruin. He presented his first women's collection, a softer and lighter version of the new look with an a-line silhouette. Laurent was the first to introduce French fashion to the USSR (1959), flying here with 12 models.
It seemed that bright prospects lay ahead as a successor who lived up to the expectations of the late Dior. But it was not without envy and troubles. The owner of the Dior fashion house (Marcel Boussac), according to rumors, insisted that Saint Laurent be sent to military service in Africa, thereby wanting to get rid of the designer. There he learns that he has been fired from the Dior fashion house.
In 1961, the Yves Saint Laurent brand appeared; its first collection was a great success. Oriental motifs, bright colors, inspiration from African countries. Saint Laurent also produces perfumes, works as a theater designer, and creates sets and costumes.
The ideas of Laurent's subsequent collections also received great recognition and became a kind of fashion classic: women's tuxedos (later they became a signature feature of the brand), trouser suits, high boots, high-neck sweaters, black leather jackets, safari-style dresses, ethnic motifs. Laurent becomes the first designer to launch a full-fledged ready-to-wear line, as well as the first designer to have an exhibition dedicated to him during his lifetime at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Giorgio Armani
The Italian fashion designer is called a fashion pioneer of the 20th century, a master of tailoring, an adherent of quality and a great esthete. Since childhood, Giorgio loved art and theater, he himself drew and sewed outfits for dolls. He had a dream of becoming an actor, but his parents insisted on becoming a doctor. After two years of study, Giorgio dropped out of university. He found himself in the world of fashion. Armani created his own brand in 1974, and before that he worked as a window designer in a large chain department store, and also created men's clothing for Nino Cerruti.
Armani's professional skills in working with fabric led to the fact that, thanks to him, the approach to tailoring men's clothing completely changed. Lightness and smoothness appeared, which, along with simplicity and conciseness, provide his products with special chic and convenience. After the stunning success of the men's collection, Armani began to present women's collections, paying attention especially to working women. In his collections, traditional views harmoniously coexist with the most modern trends. He modernized the classics with great grace and taste. Luxurious materials, experiments with combinations of fabrics, functionality and versatility, casual elegance are the hallmarks of Armani collections.
Ralph Lauren
The famous American designer, who is called the king of the ready-to-wear dress, “discovered America in America.” His company (Polo Ralph Lauren Corporation) produces accessories, clothing, underwear, textiles, furniture, wallpaper, perfumes, and dishes. Lauren has been named Designer of the Year three times and has also been named a Fashion Legend by the US Design Council. For many people, Ralph Lauren is an example of how a person from a low social class can achieve great heights with a dream and talent. Coming from Belarus (his parents met and got married in the USA), from a poor family with many children, Ralph set himself the goal of success from a young age. He was amazed by his classmate's wardrobe, which belonged only to him, and in which clothes were so neatly laid out. In Ralph's apartment there was one closet for everyone. Since then, the future designer decided to work and save money for his dream.
It is interesting that Lauren does not have a diploma in fashion design, but at the same time he is one of the world's best designers. He does not sew clothes himself, but is an inspiration, a designer, and thinks through each collection to the smallest detail. The designer himself says this: “I never went to fashion school - I was a young guy who had his own style. I never imagined that polo would become what it is. I just followed my instincts."
At first, Ralph worked as a salesman (selling clothes, gloves and ties), then became a tie designer, creating a fundamentally new model (he was inspired by the novel “The Great Gatsby”): a wide silk tie (at a time when thin ties were in fashion). Thanks to an investor, Lauren and her brother opened a store and their own brand, Polo Fashion. People wanted high-quality and stylish things and accessories, the brand was gaining more and more popularity. Lauren produced collections of ready-to-wear clothing (first for men and then for women) and accessories. He was the only one who began to produce sports shirts in 24 shades.
Lauren's collections combine chic, sophistication and at the same time ease, simplicity and brightness. “My clothes are a vision of what I believe in. Someone once told me that I was a writer. It's true - I write through my clothes. It embodies a story, not just clothes,” Lauren said. Ralph's wife inspired him to create collections of women's clothing: “My wife has good taste and her own style. When she wore shirts, sweaters and jackets purchased from men's stores, people always asked where she got them. I associated her appearance with a young Katharine Hepburn - a rebel girl on a horse with hair flying in the wind. I designed shirts for her.” Lauren introduced Western clothing into fashion. And polo shirts never seem to go out of style.
The boy Ralph's dreams have come true: he is one of the richest people in the world, he has a strong family, three children, he owns a ranch and is one of the world's largest collectors of vintage cars.
Roberto Cavalli
The famous Italian designer calls himself an "artist of fashion" and is famous for his exotic and spectacular collections of clothing and accessories. His fashion house adheres to the philosophy of femininity, chic and bright temperament. The designer himself said in an interview that his fashion “became successful and relevant because other designers continued to produce monotonous things... For a long time, designers tried to dress women equally with men. I changed this trend. I try to emphasize with my clothes the feminine, sexy side that is present in every representative of the fair sex.”
His grandfather, the famous artist Giuseppe Rossi, and his mother, who was a dressmaker and designer, had a great influence on the development of Cavalli's talent. As a child, helping his mother with sewing clothes, Cavalli realized that he wanted to study design and fashion. He was one of the best students at the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence, studying textile printing technologies. Even then, he created a series of floral prints, which attracted the attention of large factories in Italy. Cavalli always loved to experiment, while still studying at the Academy, he began to come up with different ways to dye leather and fabric, he was then only 20 years old.
And so, these experiments led to the fact that in the early 70s, Cavalli himself invented and patented a leather printing system that made it possible to dye it in six different colors. This revolutionary invention instantly became popular with various fashion houses. Stretch denim jeans are another hit from Cavalli, providing the House with prosperity and success.
Roberto Cavalli's bright and extravagant clothes are in great demand among fashionistas around the world, worn by the most glamorous celebrities on the planet. Cavalli believes that a woman should have character and a strong personality. In one of his interviews, he said: “Beauty comes from within, and is a reflection of the individuality of each person... Beauty is a calling card that helps at the first meeting, but is completely useless at the second.”
Valentino Garavani
The founder of the fashion house Valentino, a famous Italian fashion designer, loved to draw since childhood, in his youth he loved art and was interested in fashion. He was an apprentice, studied at the School of Fine Arts in Paris, and at the School of the Chamber of Haute Couture. He worked in several fashion houses, then opened his own atelier. His works were distinguished by sophistication, excellent cut, expensive fabrics, handmade decoration, and sophistication. In 1960, the Valentino brand appeared.
Thanks to a meeting with the architect Giametti, the future general director of the fashion house, Valentino gets the opportunity to engage only in creativity, without delving into the intricacies of business. He himself said: “I only know how to draw dresses, receive guests and decorate a house, but I don’t understand anything about business.” One of the collections of the 60s featured red outfits, which later became the hallmark of the Valentino fashion house. The fashion designer says: “Red is the best color. It suits any woman, you just have to remember that there are over 30 different shades of this color.”
For many years, the designer has dressed celebrity celebrities; many of them preferred to purchase exquisite wedding dresses from him. Among his clients were such legendary personalities as Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor. At the Oscars, many actresses shone in outfits from Valentino. In 2007, the famous fashion designer announced his retirement from the fashion world, and in 2008, a farewell show was held at Paris Fashion Week, where all the models walked the catwalk in red dresses, and the audience gave a standing ovation.
The most influential fashion designers in the world, with the help of their own talents, form entire fashion empires that set the tone for the fashion world for decades. Below is a list of the ten best and most famous fashion designers in the world who have shaped modern fashion.
Donatella Versace (born May 2, 1955) is a famous Italian fashion designer, the younger sister of the founder of the Versace fashion house, Gianni Versace. After the great designer was assassinated in 1997, Donatella inherited 20% of the shares, becoming vice president and chief designer of the company. She presented her first collection a year and three days after her brother's death in July 1998, proving that the future of the Versace fashion house was in good hands.
Donna Karan (born October 2, 1948) is an American fashion designer, creator of the world famous brands Donna Karan and DKNY. Donna presented her first collection of clothing for women, Seven Easy Pieces (“Seven Simple Things”), which later became legendary and glorified Donna in 1985. The unique concept of this collection was that every woman should include seven irreplaceable things for her in her basic wardrobe. As Donna herself says, she never sought to create luxurious outfits - her clothes are intended for everyone.
Eighth place in the list of the ten best fashion designers in the world is occupied by Calvin Richard Klein (born November 19, 1942), a rather scandalous American fashion designer, founder of Calvin Klein Inc., considered one of the founders of the Unisex style. Kelvin was the first in the world to present on the catwalks and sell expensive “designer jeans”, which later made him famous.
Thomas Carlyle Ford (born August 27, 1961) is a popular American fashion designer, director and screenwriter. He gained recognition in the fashion industry, both from the general public and from his colleagues, while working as design director (later creative director) at Gucci. He is also known for directing the Oscar-nominated film A Single Man. In 2006, he founded his own brand called Tom Ford, which produces men's clothing, eyewear and accessories.
Pierre Cardin (born July 2, 1922) is a French fashion designer of Italian origin, one of the most influential in the history of fashion. Pierre Cardin is known for his avant-garde style, preferring abstract, geometric shapes, often ignoring feminine lines. He is the owner of several restaurants in New York, Beijing, London, and he also owns the Lacoste castle in the Vaucluse department. In 1950, he founded his own fashion house and patented more than 500 inventions, including high boots, colored stockings, mini sundresses, etc.
Ralph Lauren (born October 14, 1939) is an American fashion designer, philanthropist and businessman, one of the richest people in the world (his net worth is estimated at $7.5 billion). He was awarded the title “Legend of American Fashion.” In 1967 he founded the Polo Ralph Lauren company, and in 1968 he released his first men's clothing collection. In 1971 he began designing a women's clothing line. Under its own brand, Ralph Lauren also produces interior items, accessories, perfumes and pet products.
In fourth place in the ranking is Christian Dior (January 21, 1905 - October 23, 1957) - French fashion designer, founder of the Christian Dior fashion house, which is one of the ten most expensive clothing brands in the world. Christian presented his first clothing collection called New Look, which brought the designer worldwide fame and revolutionized the world of post-war fashion, on February 12, 1947.
Yves Henri Donat Mathieu Saint Laurent (August 1, 1936 - June 1, 2008) - famous French fashion designer, founder of the fashion house Yves Saint Laurent (Saint Laurent Paris). He introduced elements of the men's wardrobe into women's fashion - leather jackets, thigh-high boots and tuxedos. He was the first in the world to use dark-skinned models in his shows. Throughout his life, Yves Saint Laurent suffered from depression and other mental illnesses. He often received treatment in a psychiatric clinic. He died of brain cancer at his residence in Paris.
Giorgio Armani (born July 11, 1934) is a famous Italian fashion designer, founder of Giorgio Armani SpA. With a net worth of $8.5 billion, he is one of the richest people in Italy. He presented his first clothing collection in 1974. Since the early 80s, it has been producing perfumes, accessories, watches and jewelry. He is a co-owner of the hotel, which occupies from the 1st to the 39th floor of the tallest building in the world - the Burj Khalifa skyscraper.
Coco Chanel (August 19, 1883 - January 10, 1971) was a famous French fashion designer, perhaps the most important figure in the history of fashion of the 20th century, and founder of the Chanel fashion house. She introduced a fitted jacket and a small, strict black dress into women's fashion. In 1921, she created Chanel No. 5 perfume, which became iconic throughout the world and is still used today. Coco's influence was so strong that Time magazine included her in its list of the 100 most influential people of the 20th century, the only representative from the fashion world in the ranking.
Also coming back into fashion is a noble dark turquoise color called the Bay of Biscay shade.
It is the shimmer and combination of green and blue that makes it ideal for the autumn-winter period. Well, another shade that attracts attention this year is “dusty orange,” which with its tenderness lifts the mood, warms you up in the cold season, and even brings smiles to the faces of other people.
However, you should not stop only at the shades already described. You can pay attention to such a shade as “rose quartz”, which will go perfectly with “Bay of Biscay” and “exquisite Marsala”.
It is also worth noting the “peach echo”, plunging into the world of tenderness and sensuality. But the “calm” shade, reminiscent of a cloudless sky, will give its weightlessness and airiness to every item of clothing made in this color. “Buttercup”, or bright yellow, shade will give a colorful mood and a charge of vivacity, but “deep sea blue”, on the contrary, will draw you into the world of mysticism and mysteries.
The lilac-gray shade, ideal for dresses and skirts of various cuts, also holds its ground in the new season.
It is he who will add romance and lightness to any image, even the seemingly bulky one. But the name “fiesta” absolutely does not correspond to what we are hiding under – muted red with bright transitions is unlikely to create a calm atmosphere, but will fill it with fervor and positivity.
Leave your comment
What is a fashion collection? What distinguishes a ready-to-wear collection from a haute couture collection? Where can you find an idea for creating a collection, what role does color play in it, and what fate awaits the collection after the show? Alina Aidarkina, a former participant in competitions for young fashion designers, and now a specialist in creating exclusive collections, answers these questions.
What distinguishes a private custom tailor from a young fashion designer? Both of them work with clients, give advice on style, help choose a style and accessories, create patterns and sew the product... But only a clothing designer, unlike a dressmaker, creates not just products for the customer, he thinks in collections! At competitions for young designers, it is often necessary to present just one product, which, nevertheless, will serve as a complete expression of the concept of the collection. With a successful combination of circumstances, a young designer will have the opportunity to demonstrate his design idea on the catwalk of one of the Fashion Weeks and reach a new level - create his own design studio, get a job as a designer in one of the famous fashion houses, or become a fashion designer for one of the industrial clothing brands.
With a request to tell us about the different moments of creating collections, we turned to Alina Aidarkina, a former participant in competitions for young fashion designers, and now engaged in both the development of patterns for mass production and the creation of exclusive collections for modeling agencies and salons in the city of Ulyanovsk.
Alina was previously engaged in individual tailoring, worked as a designer at a research and production enterprise and as a fashion designer in a wedding salon, she has extensive experience in designing and modeling clothes (ski suits of complex design, sports suits, outerwear, casual women's clothing, evening and wedding dresses) .
Now, after a short digression, we return to the topic of this article and give the floor to Alina.
Creation of fashionable clothing collections
Collection It is customary to name several models of clothing for various purposes (from 5-7 items of clothing for novice fashion designers to 60-80 models for famous couturiers), which are united by a certain idea, correspond to a certain theme, have a similar color scheme and are created for a specific season (spring-summer or autumn winter). There is a difference between an author's designer collection and a collection of a specific fashion house or company, which can be created by several designers. Collections can be created for two main lines - haute couture and ready-to-wear.
Haute couture
The term "Haute Couture" literally translated from French means "high sewing". Nowadays, it is understood as the creation of clothes of the highest class and is usually translated as “high fashion”.
The center of haute couture is Paris, where the Chamber (Syndicate) of Haute Couture is located. She determines the status of fashion designers and organizes shows of collections of high fashion houses (in January and July). To be classified as a haute couture house, one must meet a number of strict requirements: The house must have at least 15 employees and present collections twice a year (in each catwalk there are 35 dresses for day and evening).
Haute couture dresses are made almost entirely by hand and in only one copy. Each model usually requires 100-400 hours of work. The suit or dress chosen at the fashion show is only a sample, and a new one is sewn for the client, ideally suited to the figure.
Ready-to-wear
Models of ready-made clothing replicated for sale are called ready-to-wear clothing (from the French pret -a- porter - ready to wear).
There are four groups of ready-made clothing:
- luxury series (circulation 4-5 copies);
- high quality series (circulation 100-200 pcs.);
- classic series - high quality products, but mass produced (several hundred copies);
- category of large series that does not have standard restrictions, consumer goods.
Since the advent of the ready-to-wear industry, it has evolved from the production of low-grade, cheap or semi-finished products to an extremely complex and varied garment manufacturing system. Within the framework of ready-to-wear, its own art schools, fashion centers, a circle of fashion designers and clients, as well as a subtle gradation of quality and prices were formed.
Using elements of historical costume
When choosing a theme for a collection, a designer can refer to classical forms and the history of costume. It is not necessary to try to repeat the elements of the costume. It is necessary to translate into reality the associations that arise when studying a topic, change the design of clothing, and try to present your vision of the image taken as a basis.
For example, turning to the theme of Ancient Egypt, you can use elements of the Egyptian costume: headband (klaft), collar-necklace (uskh), triangular-shaped apron (skhenti), cone-shaped headdresses, draped women's dress (kalaziris). At the same time, the pointed folds of the pleating on the apron can resemble the diverging rays of the sun, and women's clothing made of transparent fabric, enveloping the body to the ankles, creates the effect of a body undressed and dressed at the same time.
Use of art movements
Fashion designers often find ideas for new collections in other areas of art. The following trends had a strong influence on the development of high fashion at one time:
- constructivism (highlighting the design and technical side of a work of art);
- cubism (an attempt to depict an object from all sides simultaneously, as a combination of geometric shapes);
- surrealism (a paradoxical, unexpected connection of the seemingly incompatible, a reflection of the stream of consciousness without control by the mind);
- pop art (inclusion of real objects, photographs, reproductions and illustrations into the composition);
- postmodernism (using previously created forms to build a new one, searching for new relationships between styles, borrowing and quoting);
- op art (use of various visual illusions, which are achieved by sharp color contrasts and intersections of writhing lines).
Use of color in the collection
The selection of colors also plays an important role when creating a collection. For example, when selecting fabrics for the “Egyptian” collection, it should be taken into account that the Egyptians used blue and red colors in clothes, and also painted their hands orange, wore gold jewelry and used green cosmetics for their faces. When using all these paints, you need to take into account the correct color ratio.
The color proportion could be like this:
- base color - 60%,
- additional - 30%,
- accentuating - 10%.
Contrasting colors enhance each other's saturation. For example, yellow is purple. There are two more pairs of complementary colors: red - green, orange - blue.
The contrast can be softened if you take not pure colors, but their shades.
A color scheme
The use of close, related colors makes the image soft and calm. The use of colors in the triad (red - yellow - blue, orange - green - purple) requires a sense of proportion and proportional balance.
An achromatic combination (white, gray, black) always looks strict and laconic. Black and white is a classic that requires no additions. Combinations of white and gray, several shades of gray, gray and black are ideal backgrounds for bright color accents. All other colors in the spectrum are in harmony with achromatic colors.
In a suit designed in one color or in a monochrome (low-contrast) palette, a person looks slimmer and taller. If the suit is divided into contrasting color spots, alternating light and dark stripes, then the figure will appear lower and denser.
Composition center
It is very important that all components of the image are subordinate to the main thing - the compositional center. This is an accent, a dominant feature that attracts special attention with its mass, design or color. It is possible that there may be several compositional centers interconnected by a single concept and a common style, but one should not overload the model or allow attention to be scattered when looking at it.
The center of the composition, located in the center of the figure, draws attention to the body - chest, waist, hips. The emphasis placed on the lower part, towards the legs, gives the image solidity and stability. If there is no compositional center, then the image is “unreadable”, seems blurry, unfinished, or breaks up into separate fragments.
In the model given as an example, the emphasis is on the contrast of shapes (tight-fitting top - oval bottom) and colors (white - black). The compositional center also attracts with its mass and design.
Three rules for costume composition
The main principle of composition is the consistency of costume elements according to three rules: contrast, nuance, similarity.
Contrast- this is a sharply expressed opposition, opposition, which can be carried out in shape, color, volume, texture of the material. For example, the composition of a costume can be built on the contrast of shapes: acute-angled at the top and rounded at the bottom. Contrast is also possible in the combination of materials: a thick jacket and a thin, easily draped skirt.
Similarity- repetition of one element in a costume, which is found in various variations. Let's say a decorative detail - a chain can be the handle of a handbag, a watch bracelet, a trim on the pockets of a jacket, or repeated as a pattern on a neckerchief. Today, such a technique seems too correct, devoid of imagination and individuality.
Nuance is a kind of transition from contrast to similarity. It creates more interesting and picturesque connections between elements. A suit, the color scheme of which is built on nuances, a combination of shades and halftones, looks richer, more complex and more refined than one designed in one color. This principle gives great scope for the designer’s personal creativity.
Creating an image
The same image can be created by completely different means. For example, to emphasize the fragility and youth of a girl, you can, based on the principle of similarity, dress her in a light outfit made of thin fabric with a delicate pattern, open shoes with thin heels, add a small handbag and elegant jewelry.
Or you can, following the path of contrast, offer this girl a larger military jumpsuit, rough boots with thick soles - and achieve an even greater effect.
The first option gives a clear and concrete image, the second - contradictory, ambiguous, associative. An unusual result can be obtained by using these principles simultaneously in one model.
The embodiment of the image
When the idea of a collection is clear, the designer makes a series of sketches outlining the main features of future models. As a rule, a great many sketches are created. Then there is a strict selection of rough sketches. Those of them that are destined to be embodied in products are refined and acquired with finally verified details. Selected working sketches are sent to designers and technologists. The first ones turn an abstract sketch into a pattern. Technologists develop a tailoring strategy for each model, taking into account the specifics of the fabric, lining, threads and thousands of other little details. And only then do seamstresses begin to bring the model to life, with most of the work done by hand. For each dress, shoes, bags, jewelry and jewelry are selected or ordered from other companies. At the last stage, the couturier thinks over the style of hairstyles and makeup for the models.
The fate of the collections
Collections are always designed to sell, although some models are so fantastic that they almost certainly will not be purchased. Not only the extravagance is scary, but also the prices: a haute couture dress costs several thousand dollars. Therefore, the main income for the creators of high fashion comes from the sale of their own perfumes, accessories and fashionable little things with the company’s logo.
In addition, more adapted collections are made (also very expensive), which are sold in company stores. Each model is repeated in three to five copies and almost always from fabrics of different colors. There are few buyers of real haute couture clothes. Experts believe that there are no more than 2.5 thousand of them worldwide.
The actual fashion of the season is determined by ready-to-wear collections created by famous masters, distributed throughout all countries of the world.
Every fashionista who closely follows the latest fashion trends sooner or later wonders: how clothing collections are created, and what influences their creation. Fashion collections are a group of wardrobe items that are united by a common idea, style, artistic design, color combinations and presented in one fashion show. Famous couturiers create collections of 40-50 looks, while newcomers most often limit themselves to creating 5-10 models.
All clothing collections created by fashion designers of various levels are divided into two main lines, namely haute couture and ready-to-wear. A designer can create a collection alone, or he can resort to the help of other designers. Fashion houses have a chief couturier and several designers. They help him develop clothing collections for the spring-summer and autumn-winter seasons. It is the responsibility of the chief couturier to determine the overall artistic concept of the collection, as well as its idea and style.
Creating a new fashion collection for a designer is a creative process and precise calculation. Today, fashion is a very commercial field, since in addition to clothing, various jewelry, accessories and perfumes must be sold in addition to it.
When starting work on a new collection, the designer first of all comes up with what its main concept will be. Once the concept is defined, you can be sure that there will be a collection. Couturiers think big in terms of fashion shows and collections. When creating things, they simultaneously think about the individuality of things, and so that they become widespread and find recognition among fashionistas.
Anything can become inspiration for a designer who has decided to create a new fashion collection of clothes, because they are creative people! It could be a beautiful landscape, a table with an unusual decoration, or dew on the grass in the early morning. Inspiration can strike a designer anywhere and anytime, so he always has a pencil and notepad at hand.
A classic example of searching for ideas is turning to old collections, since in fashion it is quite difficult to “reinvent your own wheel”, everything revolves in a circle: shapes, colors, styles, textures, silhouettes, etc.
When the concept has been chosen, the sketches have been created, and the color scheme has been thoroughly weighed and thought out taking into account the basic laws of color, the discussion of the best options and “decorating” them with details and little things begins. Next, the final sketches go to the designers and cutters who prepare the patterns, as well as to the technologists who develop the technology for manufacturing (sewing) future products, taking into account the texture of the fabrics, the color of the threads used, the presence or absence of a lining, etc. At the final stage, seamstresses are involved in the process. That's all! the collection is ready and now all that remains is to sell it and start creating new masterpieces.
Every woman knows what clothing collections are from the pages of fashion magazines. Stylish outfits, unusual jewelry, beautiful hairstyle and fashionable makeup together create the image that the designer intended. What collections there are and how they are created are described in this article.
What are collections
The word “collection” is of Latin origin and is translated as “collection.” In the fashion industry, this word refers to a series of models of clothing, shoes and accessories that have a common idea (color palette, type of fabric, shape, type of cut and sewing) and were produced by one person.
The main feature is the integrity of the models with a single style, image, color scheme and creative approach of the author. Another feature of the collection is the dynamics of the development of the idea. That is, various nuances should be demonstrated during the time, reflecting the development of the author’s plan.
What collections are is well known to everyone from television programs about fashion, which talk about new developments by famous couturiers.
It may consist of accessories, or individual products of the author. Famous fashion designers create collections in which they present both designer clothing and accessories.
Types of collections
- Copyright - this category includes original works in which the designer expresses his own concept of clothing. These include ready-to-wear collections, etc. This group also includes unique collections designed for display at exhibitions, presentations, competitions and fairs at the international level.
- Industrial - intended for mass production. That is, industrial series of clothing, shoes or accessories are initially designed for sale in huge quantities. They are shown at regional fashion fairs. As a rule, industrial collections are more restrained compared to designer works, but at the same time they contain all the fashion trends. Every person knows from personal experience what industrial-type collections are. They are presented every season at local fairs and various clothing and shoe shows.
- Promising - contain trends that will be relevant in the next season. As a rule, when developing a promising collection of clothing or accessories, designers take into account the economic situation in the country or region, changes in color preferences, fashion forecasts, and trends in a woman’s lifestyle.
- Special - this group includes collections intended for a specific event or occasion. For example, a collection of school uniforms designed for a separate educational institution, or a series of clothes for employees of a company/organization.
According to their purpose, all collections are divided into the following groups:
- mass - intended for mass production and a wide range of buyers;
- group - created for a specific group of people (police uniforms, kits for company employees, clothing for delegations and sports teams);
- individual wardrobe - sewn to the client's individual order.
How a new collection is created
During its creation, designers and fashion designers must take into account the following important factors:
- Purpose - sportswear and sleep sets, evening dresses, etc.
- Seasonality - autumn-winter or spring-summer. Sometimes a new collection may only be developed for one season.
- Age category - clothing for infants, people or youth.
- Assortment - swimsuits, outerwear, shoes, bags, hats.
What happens to the old collection
Every company engaged in the production of clothing, shoes or accessories has situations when seasonal goods are not fully sold, and some stocks remain in the warehouse. In this case, manufacturers proceed in two ways. So, a company can organize a sale, offering the buyer discounts and bonuses. This method is very popular and always brings good income to the organizer of the sale. In addition, this method of selling outdated fashion items very often stimulates sales of a new collection. A buyer enters a store because of a tempting offer to purchase a stylish item at a low cost, but ends up buying an expensive new item.
The second popular way to sell the remnants of an old collection is to sell to wholesalers at a significantly reduced price. In this case, the old collection goes into the “stock” category. Stock clothing is sold in special retail stores.
By date ▼ ▲
By name ▼ ▲
By popularity ▼ ▲
By difficulty level ▼
Young designer Leonid Titov creates real fashion masterpieces in his workshop. The brand specializes in creating leather clothing and accessories that are functional, beautiful and durable. You can buy such a thing for yourself on the master’s website in the online store: a large selection of bags, backpacks, suitcases, clutches, shoes, jackets and wallets, the ability to choose by color, price and size. Each model is accompanied by a description of the style, materials and production time.
http://www.leonidtitow.com/The Italian brand MaxMara is dedicated to making beauty accessible and strives to ensure that any average woman can wear clothes from this famous brand. Visit the official website of MaxMara - the laconic and sophisticated style of the outfits will not leave you indifferent. Choose a variety of outfits - from outerwear to underwear, bags and accessories, and customer service guarantees quality and timely delivery of your order directly to your home.
http://it.maxmara.com/Kira Plastinina is a Russian fashion clothing brand. The leading designer is Kira Plastinina, who designs clothes for young girls who want to emphasize their individuality. Go shopping on the designer’s official website by visiting the online store - here you can find collections of outfits, shoes and accessories with free delivery. The Sale section will allow you to save on sales, and “Tips from Kira” will give advice on style issues.
http://www.kiraplastinina.ru/Hubert de Givenchy is a French fashion designer, founder of the Givenchy brand, whose collections have been a resounding success for many decades. Fashion house designers sewed outfits for Barbie dolls and decorated hotels and cars. Today the brand produces not only fashionable clothes, but also cosmetics, perfumes, shoes and accessories. We invite you to visit one of the official websites - an online boutique of branded cosmetics and perfumes, where you can buy fragrances, makeup and skin care products.
http://givenchybeauty.ru/Giorgio Armani is an Italian fashion house that produces men's and women's clothing, as well as luxury goods. The brand will unite several clothing lines, including ready-to-wear, items with hand-knitted elements, accessories, denim, casual, children's outfits, interior decor, decorative and caring cosmetics, and perfumes. On the website you can place an order using your personal account, subscribe to the newsletter, and receive a gift card.
http://www.armani.com/ruThe French brand Dior is often called a luxury empire. Its founder, Christian Dior, was the first to unite various types of fashion industry products under a single brand. This is how shoes, accessories, jewelry, lingerie, cosmetics and perfumes from Dior appeared. Do you want to buy yourself a branded handbag, a case for credit cards, a wallet, a dress, a children's outfit or a fragrance? The official website of the company will help you make your choice and become a real standard of beauty and sophistication.
http://www.dior.com/home/ru_ruChanel is a famous French brand and fashion house founded by Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel. The fashion brand produces clothing, shoes, bags, eyewear, jewelry and luxury goods. Visit the official website and learn more about the wide range of products, because products from the famous brand help you be not only fashionable, but also beautiful - cosmetics and perfumes will make your look perfect. You can also find the addresses of branded stores here.
http://www.chanel.com/ru_RU/#The Calvin Klein brand has long become the standard of American fashion and a role model for all followers. The style of the designer's products can be described as unisex, which makes the models attractive to men and women. The chronicle posted on the official website will help you remember the history of Calvin Klein, and the video section will allow you to plunge into the world of fashion shows. Update your wardrobe with a collection of clothes, shoes, lingerie and jewelry from a famous fashion designer.
http://www.calvinkleininc.com/Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana founded an Italian trading house, which received the signature name Dolce. The brand's luxury clothing and accessories are designed in a strict classic style and are designed to emphasize the wealth and prestige of the client. The brand's online boutique offers a plunge into the world of luxury with clothing collections for women, men and children; in addition, there is a series of accessories, glasses, jewelry, watches and books from Dolce and Gabbana.
http://store.dolcegabbana.com/ru
Yulia Prokhorova is a famous Russian designer, creator of the Yulia Prokhorova.Beloe Zoloto fashion house. She creates clothes for women in a retro style; her designs are feminine, elegant and romantic. Want to create a curvy 50's style look? You can order an outfit on Yulia’s official website - summer and winter collections, wedding and Christmas dresses are collected here. Watch video reports from shows, read publications in the press and find out the latest news about the artist.
http://yuliaprokhorova.com/
Svetlana Terenchuk is a popular designer who devotes herself entirely to creativity. The official website will introduce you to the designer’s collections, and the studio will offer services for developing sketches and individual tailoring of women’s, men’s, children’s clothing, and outfits for special occasions. Finishing works - hand embroidery, painting on fabric, decoration with beads, wool and leather - will make your wardrobe exquisite and unique, and exclusive accessories will complete the look.
http://terenchuk.com/
Russian fashion designer Igor Gulyaev made his debut on fashion catwalks with his fur collection, which aroused great interest and excitement in the fashion field. Now the Igor Gulyaev brand consists of several series of women's clothing, including corset evening dresses, outerwear, fur items and much more. On the designer’s website you can get acquainted with his works in detail by watching a selection of videos, photo galleries, news, interviews with the master and author’s blogs on social networks.
http://www.igorgulyaev.com/main/
Young Russian fashion designer Olga Skazkina is the creator of her own brand of women's clothing. The designer's official website is a real kingdom of dresses that can be purchased without leaving your computer. The online boutique will offer you exclusive premium dresses: summer, office, casual, prom, cocktail, evening and wedding dresses that will become a real decoration of your wardrobe. Use the convenient search and order a branded item from Olga Skazkina.
http://www.skazkina.com/ruSlava Zaitsev is a famous Soviet and Russian fashion designer, professor, his style combines classics and elements of novelty. The Zaitsev School is engaged in training and educating the younger generation of fashion designers. The fashion house is a center of beauty and good taste; here you can make an individual order and have an outfit tailored to your figure. The online boutique offers ready-made clothing of various styles and accessories for sale, providing cumulative discount cards with discounts.
http://zaitsev.info/The famous Russian couturier, honored artist, people's artist - this is all about Valentin Yudashkin. His fashion house is famous throughout the post-Soviet space, and the master’s works are kept in museums around the world. The main lines of the collections - ready-to-wear and haute couture - brought together a variety of models, styles, fabrics and textures, and the line of accessories includes stylish glasses, jewelry, bags, scarves and stoles. The site also features an interior studio that specializes in interior design.
http://www.yudashkin.com/Designer Valentino Garavani is the creator of the Italian fashion house and brand Valentino. The brand specializes in the production of women's and men's clothing, underwear and perfumes. We invite you to the official website of the couturier for shopping. Choose the item you like based on style and size, order a convenient payment method, and the customer service will take care of timely delivery. But the most important thing is that you can receive an exclusive product first, even before it arrives at branded outlets.
http://www.valentino.com/#/en/home/Roberto Cavalli is a famous designer, clothing artist, owner of his own fashion brand. His models are characterized by memorable, expressive “animal” prints and unusual patterns, and among the buyers you can find representatives of the world elite and the middle class. The Roberto Cavalli online boutique is designed to regularly introduce all fashionistas and fashionistas to new collections. Dresses and shirts, tops and sweaters, blouses, trousers and coats - in such clothes you will certainly stand out from the crowd.
http://store.robertocavalli.com/ru/robertocavalli
The history of the brand dates back to 1950, when French fashion designer Pierre Cardin founded his own fashion house producing women's clothing. Pierre's ideas formed the basis of the modern fashion world, and his collections are distinguished by their special chic and elegance. Visit the official website of Pierre Cardin - Ukraine and among its models you will find classic and casual style, learn a detailed history of the brand and the latest news. The website contains store addresses and conditions for participation in the loyalty program.
http://pierre-cardin.kiev.ua/ua
Louis Vuitton is one of the most famous luxury brands in the world. Bags, handbags, travel bags, suitcases and clothing of this brand have long become a symbol of wealth and high status. The official website of Louis Vuitton in Russia invites you to familiarize yourself with the collections for women and men and take a journey into the world of this famous brand. Leather goods, jewelry, shoes and watches - you will certainly be impressed and want to pamper yourself with a purchase.
http://ru.louisvuitton.com/rus-ru/homepage
The famous brand was founded by a female designer of English origin, Karen Millen, and over three decades has gained great popularity and fame around the world. Exquisite and aristocratic outfits from Karen Millen will be appropriate for social events, parties and receptions. Now the brand’s products are available on the Russian-language website, where you can explore and purchase the latest arrivals of clothing, shoes and accessories, and find gifts for your loved ones.
http://www.karenmillen.ru/
The official website of the fashionable Ukrainian designer Lilia Litkovskaya is created in a minimalist style, which corresponds to the general concept of clothing from the famous brand Litkovskaya. The site presents fashionable lookbooks from new collections and models that have already gained popularity. If you like the work of a fashion designer, then use the catalog of addresses of branded stores and retail outlets where you can buy clothes from Litkovskaya - stylish, elegant, devoid of excessive pathos and extravagance.
http://litkovskaya.com/ru/
Clothes from the Polina Efimova brand are not super fashionable models, but timeless classics that will always be relevant and popular. Polina Efimova’s online store will offer you outfits for any, even non-standard, figure made from high-quality fabrics. The summer capsule collection “Spring Flowers” will delight everyone with floral prints and bright colors, and “Woodland”, with soft warm fabrics, is perfect for the winter season. All products are available for purchase online.
http://www.polinaefimova.ru/Alexander McQueen is a famous British designer, whose name is firmly entrenched in the fashion encyclopedia, and his outrageous shows attract a sea of spectators. Collections from the Alexander McQueen brand are collected on the website, which offers the purchase of branded products online. You can enlarge the image of each item, read the detailed description and size chart, delivery and return conditions. Looking for a gift idea? Branded business card holders, wallets and glasses will be a real surprise for your loved ones.
http://www.alexandermcqueen.com/ua/alexandermcquee...Ukrainian designer Andre Tan has long captivated fashionistas and fashionistas with his unusual approach to creating new clothes. If you are interested in how this successful fashion designer lives, then the official website is ready to introduce everyone to the biography, brand history and photo gallery. Of course, new collections and already favorite models await you here. The first line will surprise you with exclusive products with hand-knitted elements, and the company’s atelier will accept orders for tailoring original outfits to order.
http://andretan.com.ua/Lacoste is a French brand founded by Rene Lacoste, and the brand's alligator logo is one of the most recognizable in the world. If you have been wanting to buy yourself a branded item for a long time, then you should visit a branded online store. The possibility of free shipping, a convenient returns system and a size chart will make your shopping experience very pleasant. Products presented on the site include trousers, swimsuits, polos, rugby shirts, jackets, bandanas, belts, hats, shoes, sandals and much more.
http://shop.lacoste.ua/Sergio Rossi is a famous brand that produces luxury shoes. The official website will introduce you to the collections of this famous branded shoes. Use the convenient search service and select a women's or men's pair by size, model, heel height, color, event and season, and the customer service will ensure express delivery of your order. Also available are a wedding collection, bags, clutches and a catalog of new products, which contains the latest arrivals of shoe models.
http://www.sergiorossi.com/The Vassa company is a conceptually new Russian brand, the leading designer of which is Vassa. The main goal of the company is to create modern fashionable clothing using new original design solutions. If you are a supporter of minimalism, then you will certainly be interested in the black and white style of the women's collections from the brand and the laconic design of men's suits. A product catalog is available for download, promotions are regularly held and discount cards are provided.
http://www.vassatrend.ru/The Voronin fashion house produces high-quality women's and men's clothing. Its founder, Mikhail Voronin, is recognized as a true legend and master of fashion. The site presents suits in four styles: classic, sports, exclusive and luxury. Each line includes clothing for men and women and provides the opportunity to order according to individual measurements. You will also find related products: shirts, ties, knitwear and perfumes.
http://voronin.ua/Alexey Zalevsky is a Ukrainian designer and fashion designer, a constant member of the jury of many competitions and a participant in television projects. This bold experimenter successfully combines creative work on the podium and a directorial career. The official website will tell you more about the Zalevskiy brand, and the online store will offer a choice of men's and women's clothing and accessories. Come in and find out about significant events, closed events, and the special project Z-joke will show you the author from a new side.
http://www.zalevskiy.com/Ermenegildo Zegna is an Italian brand aimed at men, whose brand produces shoes, clothing, underwear, fabrics and accessories. The official website informs customers about new arrivals in stores: by creating your profile, you have the opportunity to order branded goods with home delivery, and subscribing to the newsletter will keep you up to date with all the news and promotions. For lovers of real shopping, there is a catalog of addresses of stores and outlets around the world.
http://www.zegna.com/ru/home.htmlEmilio Pucci is an Italian couturier whose fashion house has a long history. The designer became famous for his psychedelic patterns, which are still popular and recognizable not only in the fashion environment. The online boutique is designed to get to know the brand’s products better. He will help you choose an image from the presented gallery and choose the appropriate wardrobe for it: beach, casual, evening. And leather accessories, bags, scarves and shawls, belts and hats will give it a special touch.
http://www.emiliopucci.com/ruBurberry is an iconic luxury brand, founded by Thomas Burberry as a manufacturer and supplier of military outerwear. Now it is a famous brand that produces clothing, accessories and perfumes, the signature feature of which is a checkered fabric called Nova. We present the official website of the brand - everything here is dedicated to fashion: collections of outfits with trendy combinations, new items for the season and a beauty section with a large assortment of cosmetics and fragrances.
https://ru.burberry.com/?selected=YMy girlish memory completely refuses to sort out the names of collections of fashion houses. Of course, I know everything, but when I am asked to explain in words what the terms “Haute Couture”, “Cruise” or “Pre-fall” are, my thoughts cannot be transformed into articulate speech. So it's probably time to defragment the data in your head.
About trends and tendencies
I want to start by answering a question that many people ask: who comes up with trends? Where do they come from? Who dictates to us what we should wear this season? Before giving answers, I propose to understand what the difference is between a trend and a tendency, and there is one, despite the fact that most people combine these concepts into one.
- The trend is “fashion squeak”, a general fashion trend that is new and a find for this season. First, a trend appears, then it is “tested” according to the criteria of convenience and wearability, and, if necessary, is transformed and develops into a trend.
- A trend is the general direction of the season, which can be seen in the collections of different designers over several seasons.
- What was once a trend does not necessarily become a trend.
- If a trend lasts for a long period of time (more than four seasons), it develops into a classic.
Popular
Previously, trends originated in free-flowing Haute Couture collections, which for a long time were more art than clothing. Today this function of couture is almost forgotten, and it is mainly the responsibility of the Ready-to-Wear lines. Then the trend is adapted for the mass consumer, and the clothing goes on sale in the mass market, where it will be presented in large quantities and with a wide range of sizes.
Fashionable mechanisms
It may seem to many that designers sit in their huge workshops and “out of their minds” draw the fruits of their boundless imagination, unite them with one common theme, and their apprentices, in turn, sew the resulting collections one after another, simply timing them for the coming seasons. But in reality this is not entirely true. Even these creative people with an unlimited flow of ideas have a clear plan that they must adhere to on an ongoing basis. All these scary and at first glance incomprehensible “bourgeois” names are just some kind of framework, a schedule that allows the world to see the creations of the fashion industry on time.
Haute Couture
The concept of Haute Couture ("haute couture") hides the creation of high-class clothing - it is usually translated as "high fashion". The center of high fashion still remains Paris, where the Chamber (Syndicate) of Haute Couture Houses is located (Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture - here, by the way, they deal only with women's "High Fashion", for the creators of men's clothing and Ready-to-Wear there are two other syndicate).
To obtain the status of a Haute Couture house, you need to meet a number of requirements. First of all, all production and central stores of the House must be located in Paris and fall under the jurisdiction of the French Department of Industry. Secondly, it is necessary to produce custom-made clothing, using at least 70% manual labor.
The number of haute couture houses varies, but always remains around 20. The Syndicate of Haute Couture Houses includes brands such as Chanel, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Elie Saab, Giorgio Armani, Giambattista Valli, Valentino, Versace.
Haute couture clothing is distinguished by the fact that it is almost entirely sewn by hand and in a single copy. Each model takes approximately 100 to 400 hours of work to produce. The products selected for display are simply samples, and a new product is sewn for the client, ideally suited to his figure. Therefore, the price of a haute couture dress is high - from 26 thousand to 100 thousand dollars, a suit - from 16 thousand dollars, and an evening dress - from 60 thousand dollars (however, these prices are very conditional and can vary indefinitely) . Haute Couture collections are shown twice a year during Paris Fashion Week, usually shortly before the season.
Pret-a-Porter or Ready-to-Wear
Using the Pret-a-Porter collection (aka Ready-to-Wear), we track the main trends of the season. These clothes are produced in larger quantities for mass sale in fashion house boutiques and multi-brand stores. The expensive Haute Couture line sometimes supports the name and reputation of a fashion house, while the main profit comes from the Pret-a-Porter line. These clothes are sewn according to standard size lines, but are often in no way inferior in quality and complexity to couture products - it all depends on the complexity of the product.
The collections are also divided by season:
«
SS», « spring-summer" - spring Summer.
«
FW», « fall-winter", and sometimes just " Fall" - autumn winter.
Seasonal collections are shown at fashion weeks in Milan, Paris, London, New York, Berlin and other world fashion capitals.
Capsule collection
A capsule collection is a small collection from a brand, sometimes in collaboration with a celebrity or guest designer, sometimes just for a specific occasion (or even without). For example, the space “capsule” of Victoria Irbaieva (which she herself spoke about in as much detail as possible). Often such collections are dedicated to an anniversary or a significant event of a fashion house. Or an example from the mass market: Chupa Chups x Tezenis capsules. But if it is still a collaboration between two brands or a brand and a designer, then the collection is called a collaboration (callobaration) - for example, Balmain, Versace or Kenzo for H&M.
Pre-collection
Pre-collections (Pre-fall - pre-autumn, Pre-spring - pre-spring) - this is light
