A certain type of fabric is called twill, but it would be more correct to call this a whole group of fabrics with a characteristic way of weaving threads. The twill type is included in the basic group and is the second most common after the linen one.
Such fabrics are universal: they are woven from almost any raw material and are used for sewing many types of products. The main distinguishing feature of the twill is a pattern of diagonal lines, which is formed due to the frequent displacement of the overlap of the warp and weft threads.
Appearance
The twill weave of the fabric has one recognizable feature - a diagonal pattern of parallel stripes. Sometimes this method of creating canvases is called diagonal or privateer. The scar stretches along the width of the canvas from left to right upward, less often vice versa. The pattern is formed due to the constant displacement of the weft threads relative to the warp. This is how the characteristic diagonal relief is obtained. This scheme also contains the main difference between twill and plain weave type, in which everything is built according to the chess principle.
Twill canvases are available with both smooth and fine-patterned backs. Fabrics are produced, printed, bleached twill is also found. A combination of threads of two colors is possible, as, for example, in.
Weave varieties
The variety of thread patterns is determined by the varieties of twill weave threads:
- Classic type. The angle of the scar to the right side, the lines are the same in width.
- Reverse - the tilt of the scar to the left.
- Complex variety - several relief stripes of different widths are distinguishable. The strength and other properties of the canvas do not change from this.
- A broken mesh allows you to draw from different directions of the corners. This is the herringbone pattern. In a broken way, fabrics are mainly woven from wool, cashmere, less often cotton fibers.
- Reinforced braiding allows for wide diagonals.
Tissues differ in the sharpness of the scar angle. If the warp and weft threads are equal, a standard 45 degree angle is obtained. When the base is larger, the angle will be wider, and vice versa, when the base is larger, the angle is sharper. The twill effect also depends on the properties of the yarn itself. If it is thick and twisted, the pattern comes out more embossed, and the matter is coarser.
What is good about twill
The spread of twill weave is explained by a number of positive properties of materials. Any fabric woven in this way, regardless of the raw material, has a number of advantages:
- It has the highest strength and tear resistance.
- It is not covered with pellets and will last a long time due to its wear resistance.
- It is practically indestructible matter.
- Accepts various reinforcing impregnations well: water-repellent and others. This is an excellent property for fabrics used in workwear.
- The fabric is softer and smoother than plain weave.
- Hygroscopicity - the ability to absorb and release moisture - is also inherent in twill.
- The canvas stretches slightly diagonally, it is quite elastic, does not hinder movement when worn.
- Double-sided fabrics are pleasant to the touch, it is comfortable to be in such clothes.
- The twill drapes perfectly.
- Easy to clean: easy to wash and dry quickly.
- Fabrics on a natural basis are environmentally friendly, hypoallergenic.
- Does not have the property of electrifying.
- It has excellent thermoregulation: retains heat, but allows air to pass through, provides the necessary comfort.
- The twill is affordable and comes with a large selection of small patterns and fabric colors.
Advice! Due to slight stretching, care is required when cutting the product so that it does not warp.
Review of matters
The threads used for twill weaving have an equal effect on the properties of the finished fabric. The versatility of twill lies in the use of both natural fibers - cotton, linen, and artificial and synthetic.
These are usually very dense and warm materials. Wool twill weave is used for sewing warm winter and outerwear.
Examples:
- Gabardine - fabric made of merino wool. Jackets, coats, suits are sewn from it. In the furniture industry, gabardine is used as an upholstery material. Such furniture looks elegant. The peculiarity is a 60-degree inclination of the rib on the front side and a smooth inside out.
- - woolen fabric for sewing warm clothes, elegant suits, coats, hats, bags. Made from sheep wool. Tweed properties: retains heat, does not wrinkle, has an aesthetic appearance.
Wool blend
For the twill weave, blends of fibers are used. Half-woolen fabrics have proven themselves well. A cotton thread is used for the warp, woolen fibers act as a weft.
Wool blend twill is good for sewing clothes. A popular variety is plaid: a fabric with a pattern in a large check.
Cotton
100% cotton fabrics are the densest. This twill is called harsh.
One of the most widely used and beautiful twill fabrics is denim, better known as jeans. Dyed threads are used for the twill warp, unpainted for the weft.
The upholstery of mattresses is also made of cotton twill. Upholstered furniture is covered with such fabrics. Cotton is also widely used for sewing home textiles.
Coarse 100% cotton fabrics are used to make work clothes, trousers for miners, fastening belts, bags, mittens and other household accessories.
Artificial and synthetic fibers can be added to cotton to improve its elastic properties. Usually the proportion of cotton in blended fabrics is at least 70%. So, fabric with the addition of elastane is called stretch. Women's clothing is sewn from it.
Silk and semi-silk
Silk twill fabrics are used to create bedding sets that are soft and pleasant to the body. For semi-silk fabrics, a silk base and cotton weft are used.
Viscose
Viscose yarn is extracted from cellulose. Thin viscose twill weave fabrics are widely used for lining outerwear and hats. Many elements of women's wardrobe are sewn from fabric.
How to care for products
Despite the strength of this weave, you should be more careful with textiles. Care rules depend on the composition of the fabric. If it contains wool, cashmere or silk fibers, then washing, drying and ironing are carried out strictly according to the recommendations on the tag. So, the temperature should not exceed 40 degrees, chlorine-containing substances, bleaches, spinning at high speeds are prohibited.
In other cases, washing is allowed at a temperature not exceeding 60 degrees at medium speed. The twill does not shrink; in extreme cases, it shrinks a little after the first wash. Only the coarsest and most durable fabrics can be wrung out at maximum speed and exposed to high temperatures... Since the fabric is practically not wrinkled, it can be easily ironed with a warm iron from the wrong side.
There is no person who has not come across a twill group of fabrics in life. Such canvases are used very widely. It is difficult to imagine a modern wardrobe without denim jackets and pants. The workwear is also strong and durable. Regardless of the raw material, twill is a comfortable and practical material.
The interlacing of threads in fabrics is different. The gloss, relief and pattern of the front surface of the fabric, as well as its mechanical, hygienic and technical properties, depend on them. The weave pattern is taken into account when modeling, designing, cutting fabric and sewing products. There are 4 classes of weaves:
- Simple (smooth);
- Small-patterned;
- Complex;
- Large-patterned.
Let's imagine that each cell is a crossing of two strands, which is called overlapping, if the main thread comes out to the front surface, the overlap is called the main and shaded when sketching.
If the weft thread comes out on the front surface, then the intersection is called weftand remains white when sketching. The repeating pattern is called report. Basis report Is the number of warp threads that form the weave pattern. Weft report - the number of weft threads forming the weave pattern.
1. Simple (smooth)
Simple weaves are: linen, twill, satin - satin... In them, each warp thread is intertwined with the weft only once, and the weft thread is always equal to the warp thread. In a plain weave, the warp and weft threads alternate through one, on the front surface of the fabric, either the main or weft thread comes out, the report on the warp and weft is equal to two.
Plain weave fabrics have a flat, matte surface, the same on the front and back sides. They have the greatest strength, and with high density - increased rigidity. The following fabrics are produced with linen weaving: miktal, marquisette, madapolam, maya, batiste, chintz, and other cotton. Linen fabrics: linen, edging, canvas. Silk fabrics: crepe de chine, crepe george, crepe chiffon. Woolen fabrics: broadcloth of some dress and suiting fabrics. If in a plain weave the warp is thinner than the weft, then a transverse scar appears on the fabric, such fabrics are called false reps(taffeta, poplin).
Fabrics twill weaves have a scar on the front surface, it goes from bottom to top, from right to left. The smallest number in the report is 3. Each time the thread is laid, the loom moves one thread. Twill weaves are denoted by a fraction, the numerator is the number of main overlaps, and the denominator is the number of weft threads in each row.
The twill report on the basis is equal to the weft report, and is equal to the sum of the digits in the numerator and denominator. If the main threads prevail on the front surface, the weave is called the main (2/1, 3/1, 4/1). If weft threads predominate on the front surface, then the weave is called weft(1/2, 1/3, 1/4). Semi-silk fabrics, semi-woolen fabrics are produced, which have a cotton base, and woolen wefts. With the same density and thickness of the warp and weft, the angle of inclination of the rib is 45 °. Twill weave fabrics are more elastic than plain weave. With low density, fabrics have increased elasticity, diagonally.
Satin and satin weave fabrics have a shiny and smooth surface. Weft threads predominate on the front surface of satin, and main ones on the front surface of satin. There should be at least five weaves in total. In five-thread sateen, the main one in the report comes out only 1 time to the front surface and passes under 4 weft threads.
In the next row, everything is the same, but there is a 2-strand shift. Satin weave produces a fabric - satin.
In satin weave, each base in the report overlaps 4 weft threads. 
The following fabrics are produced: satin - double, eraser - cotton, silk - crepe - satin, corset, staple fabrics for pajamas. The disadvantage is that there is flow and slip during flooring and sewing.
2. Small-patterned
There are two subclasses in the class of small-patterned weaves: derivatives - obtained by changing or complicating simple weaves; combined - obtained by alternating and combining simple weaves. Derivatives include: rep weave and matting. Reps weaveformed by lengthening the main and weft floors . — each warp thread goes through 2 - 3 or more weft threads.
A transverse scar appears.
If each weft goes through 2 - 3 or more warp threads, then a longitudinal scar appears, and the rep is called longitudinal. 
Fabrics are produced: flannel and reps.
This is a double or triple plain weave, in which the number of warp and weft threads increases symmetrically at the warp and weft.
The following fabrics are produced: cotton (matting), silk (crepe - elegant), woolen (dress and suit fabrics).
Derivatives of twill weaves include: reinforced twill, broken twill and complex twill... There are no single weaves in the reinforced twill, there is a report, which is designated 2/2, 3/3, 3/2, 4/2, 2/4.
Reinforced twills can be basic, weft or equilateral. Reinforced twill 2/2 and 3/3 produce cashmere, baston, cheviot.
Broken twill and reverse twill are called herringbone weaves, since the direction of the twill strip periodically changes at an angle of 90º. 
A reverse twill differs from a broken twill in that a twill strip shifts at the point of a break, weft strips go against the main overlaps, and main ones go against the weft ones.
Forms alternating diagonal scars of different widths on the fabric. It is characterized by a fraction containing in the numerator and in the denominator two or more digits 1 -2 / 2 -3, 1 -3/2 -1, 2 - 2/4 - 1. 
Complex twill is used for the production of dress and coat fabrics.
Reinforced satin is a derivative of satin weave. Unlike satin, which consists of eight threads, reinforced, in each horizontal row, two main overlaps alternate with six weft threads. 
Fabrics are produced: moleskin, cotton cloth, suede, velveteen.
The combined small-patterned weaves include:
Ornamental- creates on the surface of the fabric simple patterns in the form of longitudinal and transverse stripes, cells, contours. Formed by alternating or combining simple weaves. For example, twill and rep or broken twill and matting. Many costume and some coat fabrics are produced.
Crepe - these are elongated overlaps scattered on the front surface, which give the fabric a graininess character.
They are very diverse and are used for the production of cotton, woolen, silk and other dress fabrics.
Embossedform a pattern with protruding weft and warp threads. These include "waffle" diagonal and ribbed weaves. By changing the length of the main and weft overlaps in the "waffle" pattern, a pattern resembling a pattern of waffles is formed. Used for making towels. The hostesses are definitely familiar with these.
Diagonal... In them, on the front surface, small convex embossed stripes are formed, going from bottom to top, from left to right, or with such an inclination as in a scar. Depends on the density of the base and the nature of the weave, gabardines are produced.
Ribbed... They have convex stripes going obliquely or vertically. The “pique” tissue is produced.
Translucent.Gives the fabric an openwork look. The warp and weft threads shift or separate during the weaving process to form gaps. Cotton fabrics "Sport", "Salute" are produced.
3. Complex
Complex weaves are formed from three or more systems of threads. These include: double-faced, double-layer, pique, pile, looped, leno.
Double-facedare formed from three systems of threads that are tightly intertwined with each other. These are two warps and wefts, or one warp and two wefts. This weave produces cotton fabrics: satin - tights, bikinis, woolen - cloth.
Double layerare formed from four or five systems of threads and can consist of two separate fabrics, interconnected by one of the components of the four systems or an additional fifth system. In two-layer fabrics, the front and back sides can be completely different: the front side can be plain dyed, and the back side can be multi-colored, checkered, striped, or both sides are smooth, but of different colors.
Piqueis a complex weave and differs from a false pike by the presence of an additional system of threads. The face of the pique is produced plain weave, and an additional system pulls it together, forming a convex pattern.
Pile weave fabricshave a split, upright pile on the front surface; is formed from three systems of threads: one pile system and two root systems (warp and weft). Root systems can be plain or twill weave and, due to their high density, they fix and hold the pile well. Cotton pile fabrics: semi-velvet, corduroy - have a pile from the pile weft system, which is cut after being removed from the loom during the finishing process. Silk pile fabrics: velvet, velor, plush, woven faux fur. It is produced on two self-tapping linen machines with a pile from an additional main system. On the weaving machine, two canvases are simultaneously produced, which are linked together with a pile system. As the fabric develops, the quick cutter cuts the pile system and forms two identical pile fabrics. Pile weaves give fabrics good heat-shielding properties, but complicate processing in the sewing industry. When cutting and WTO, it is necessary to take into account the direction of the pile in the products. In such fabrics, the pile should go from bottom to top, and in coat fabrics - from top to bottom.
A type of pile weave are looped (terry) rewindingthat have a pile in the form of loops. Fabrics are produced for the manufacture of bathrobes and sheets, as well as for some decorative fabrics.
Leno (openwork)has translucent cells. The simplest leno weave consists of three systems of threads: two warps and one weft. The lengthening base wraps around the standing base from one side or the other. Such openwork weaves are very transparent. They are used for the production of cotton, silk, blouse, shirt and dress fabrics, curtains, and technical fabrics.
4. Large-sized
Large-patterned weaves are formed by combining various simple weaves of warp and weft. The size and shape of the picture can be extremely diverse:
You can make various fabrics, as well as portraits, carpets, tapestries, paintings, bedspreads, tablecloths. Large-patterned weaves are divided into two subclasses: simple and complex.
Simple ones consist of two systems of threads and are used for the production of cotton fabrics, satin - jacquard, Damast. For silk fabrics: Alpaca, Dudun, Moscow, Spring and Jubilee. Woolen dress fabrics, linen tablecloths, napkins, decorated fabrics.
Complex ones consist of three or more systems of threads and are used to make tapestries and carpets.
Twill is the name given to the fabric obtained by the diagonal weaving of threads. It can be based on both natural and artificial fibers.
Twill fabric is widely used in many areas of light industry.
The material appeared many centuries ago, presumably in the 300s in the French town of Nîmes.
In the middle of the 19th century, American entrepreneur Levi Strauss adopted the technology of creating canvas for sewing jeans from canvas and created the Denim brand, which literally means "from Nimes." This is how the twill weave gained worldwide popularity.
Today there is a wide variety of types of this material. On the labels of products made of twill, you can see its generally accepted designations. Some of the most popular are S-38 Yud and ST-6. They are used to create general-purpose clothing.
Weaving features
If the raw materials for making the fabric vary, then the production method is the same. He endows the material with a number of advantageous characteristics.
The weaving method is called twill. It is also known as marque or diagonal. The bottom line is this: in the process of guiding the weft thread, it shifts in relation to the warp. The result is a relief with a characteristic slope.
The diagonal pattern is represented by large or small scars, "going" to the right or left at different angles. The particulars depend on thread thickness, texture and number of weft steps.
Species diversity
Twill is classified according to several parameters.
By color, it happens:
- Printed, that is, have a pattern. Popular camouflage canvas.
- Plain colored, monochromatic.
- Bleached.
By the type of weaving (fineness and inclination of the thread), twill stands out:
- Classic. The slope goes to the right side, the lines are the same width.
- Broken line, or reverse. Tilt to the left. It turns out a drawing with a small rib.
- Complex. The fabric is characterized by diagonals of different widths.
- Reinforced. The fiber is distinguished by embossed wide diagonals.
- Zigzag. The direction of inclination of the weft is alternating.
Twill stands out in composition:
- Cotton, or harsh. This is the densest material. It contains 100% cotton.
- Silk. Distinctive features: smoothness, pleasant shine.
- Woolen.
- Polyester.
- Viscose.
- Stretch (with the addition of elastane).
There are many composition options: natural and artificial fibers are combined with each other in various proportions. But the basis is cotton, more often its share is from 70%.
Distinctive properties: advantages
All products made from this fabric have a number of advantages. Namely:
- Strength and wear resistance. This main advantage is provided due to the density of the canvas: it is 220-360 grams per square meter. meter.
- Good air permeability, thermoregulation. Clothing allows the body to "breathe". And at the same time, it warms up in cold weather.
- Hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture).
- Non-electrification. The material does not "spark" - static electricity does not build up. Therefore, the fabric is suitable for sewing overalls for workers in chemical enterprises, etc.
- Hypoallergenic. Safety for humans is explained by the predominant proportion of cotton threads in the fiber.
- Resistance to water and dirt (if the item has been treated with a special impregnation).
- Practicality. Twill products are easy to wash, dry quickly, do not fade or wrinkle, do not absorb odors.
disadvantages
The fabric has not many disadvantages.
The main weakness is that the twill can shrink after the first wash. Especially often, shrinkage threatens the cotton variety, which, moreover, practically does not stretch.
Application area
Such a canvas has received recognition from manufacturers of wardrobe items for everyday and "professional" wear. They sew from it:
- uniforms and special clothing for workers and employees of enterprises and factories (cooks, salesmen, doctors, oil producers, etc.);
- bags, belts, fasteners and other technical items;
- furniture fabrics;
- mattresses and home textiles (curtains, tablecloths, pillows, etc.);
- linens;
- lining fabrics;
- summer dresses, blouses, skirts, light robes, kimonos;
- outerwear, raincoats, jackets;
- trousers, suits, sweaters, overalls for children and adults;
- hats: light caps and warm hats.
Care features
But there is a general list of wishes for the care of twill wardrobe items. They are as follows:
- washing pure cotton is allowed at the maximum temperature;
- clothes with the addition of synthetics, silk or wool - up to 40 degrees;
- intensive spinning is allowed only for harsh twill;
- if there is a need for ironing, it is recommended to do it from the inside out, using the gentle mode of the iron.
- it is a light and durable fabric with a diagonal weave of threads (twill weave). Twill fabric can vary both in fiber composition and in the type of weave of threads. The direction of the diagonals can be positive - to the right and negative - to the left.
The word twill comes from the Italian “sargia” or the Latin “sericus”, which means “silk” in Russian.
In fact, twill is a general name for fabrics that are made by twill weaving.
Twill weave is also called cyper weave and is characterized by oblique diagonal scars located on the right side of the fabric.
Twill fabric can be made from both natural and chemical fibers.
Natural twill fabric is made from cotton, silk or woolen threads.
Cotton lightweight, highly absorbent and breathable, wear-resistant material. Cotton twill after washing has a slight shrinkage and does not lose color saturation.
Silk twill fabric has a characteristic pleasant sheen.
Wool twill is a lightweight fabric that has a moderately shiny surface and is prickly to the touch. Such fabric is quite dense and retains heat well.
An artificial fabric twill is made on the basis of polyester. The properties of polyester give the twill fabric strength, durability and resistance to external influences.
By the type of twill weave, the fabric can be complex, broken and reinforced. A characteristic feature a complex weave of twill fabric is the formation of diagonals of different widths on the surface of the fabric. The fabric obtained in this way is elastic, durable and practical to use.
With a broken way of weaving twill, small patterns in the form of a herringbone with uniform indents are formed on its front surface. Such a fabric is smooth and soft, with a clearly defined ornament and different directions of diagonal stripes.
The reinforced twill weave is characterized by distinct wide diagonal stripes on the surface of the fabric.
The fabric is made of dyed, colored and printed twill fabric.
The versatility and comfort of the twill fabric has found its wide application in various fields. The twill is used both in everyday life and in industry. The scope of its application depends on the composition and method of production of the twill fabric. It is used as a lining fabric, dress fabric and technical fabric.
Sophisticated and broken twill is used to make coat fabrics, costume fabrics and tights. Denim is a broken twill.
Artificial twill with improved consumer properties and water-repellent impregnation has found its application as furniture fabric and as upholstery of mattresses.
Ladies' dresses, suits, skirts, rugs and bedspreads are sewn from woolen twill.
Excellent heat transfer properties and antiallergenic properties allow making everyday clothes from twill fabric: trousers, skirts, shorts, breeches, chinos, bermuda shorts, jackets, windbreakers, baseball caps, children's clothing, as well as panamas and other hats. Besides, it can be used for sewing bed linen.
The excellent antistatic properties of the twill fabric made it suitable for the manufacture of workwear, work suits, overalls, aprons, gowns, mittens, bags and other technical purposes.
Fashionable and practical clothes from twill fabric in addition to aesthetic pleasure, it will create comfort and.
Weaving of two mutually perpendicular systems of warp and weft threads is called weaving, or weaving of fabric. The warp threads are along the fabric, the weft threads are across. The warp and weft threads bend around one another or overlap several threads of another system at once, located either on the front or on the wrong side of the fabric. A different sequence of weaving of warp and weft threads will create various patterns on the surface of the fabric. So weaves form appearance fabrics. Weaves also affect the properties of fabrics. The more often the threads are intertwined, passing from the front side of the fabric to the wrong side and back, the stronger they are connected with each other, the more rigid the structure of the fabric and the greater its strength. Threads with frequent bends give the fabric surface a matte finish; long overlapping threads make it smooth, shiny, slippery. Fabrics with long overlaps are more resistant to abrasion, but crumble more easily along the cuts.
The graphic representation of the weave of the fabric is called the weave pattern. Sketching of weaving weaves is performed on checkered paper. It is conventionally accepted to consider each vertical row of cells as the main thread, and each horizontal row as a weft thread. Each cage represents the intersection of warp and weft threads and is called overlap. If the main thread comes out on the front side of the fabric, the overlap is called the main thread and is shaded when sketching. If the weft thread comes out on the front side of the fabric, the overlap is called weft and when sketching it is left unhatched.
Overlaps alternate in a certain sequence in each row of the warp and in each row of the weft, forming on the surface of the fabric the same repeating pattern, which is called rapport and is denoted by the letter R.
Distinguish rapport on the basis of Ro, and rapport on the duck Rу. The warp rapport is equal to the number of warp threads that make up the weave pattern. The weft rapport is correspondingly equal to the number of weft threads in the weave pattern. On the weave pattern, rapport is usually denoted in the lower south corner by lines that go beyond the pattern and highlight at their intersection a rectangle or square of the weave pattern, which is repeated along the entire length and width of the fabric.
There are four classes of weaving weaves (fig. 11):
- simple, or main;
- small-patterned;
- complex;
- large-patterned.
Features of plain weaves are as follows:
- warp rapport is always equal to duck rapport;
- within the rapport, each warp thread is intertwined with the weft only once.
Simple weaves include linen, twill, and typical (satin) weaves.
Twill weave forms a characteristic scar running diagonally of the fabric from bottom to top from left to right.
Distinctive features of twill weave:
- the number of threads in the rapport is at least three (Ro \u003d Ry \u003d 3);
- with each subsequent insertion of the weft thread, the weaving pattern is shifted by one thread.
The twill weave rapport is indicated by a fraction: the numerator shows the number of main overlaps within the rapport, and the denominator shows the number of weft overlaps. The twill rapport is equal to the sum of the numerator and denominator digits. If the main threads prevail on the front surface of the twill weave fabric, the twill is called the main ( fig. 13), for example, twill 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, etc. If weft threads prevail on the front surface of the fabric, twill is called weft, for example twill 1/2, 1/3, 1/4.
The twill weave produces a wide variety of fabrics. The main twill weave is usually used for the production of semi-silk lining fabrics, in which the main silk threads are brought to the front side. Weft twill weave produces semi-woolen fabrics on cotton base... The scar in twill weave fabrics on the front surface usually runs from left to right, but in some fabrics it may have the opposite direction (reverse twill weave). The angle of inclination of the rib depends on the weave pattern, the thickness of the threads, the density of the warp and weft. In equally dense twill fabrics that have a warp and weft of the same thickness, the hem usually runs at an angle of 45 °.
- Features of satin (satin) weave:
- with each subsequent insertion of the weft thread, the weaving pattern is shifted by at least two threads (and not one, as in plain or twill weave).
- The minimum number of threads in the rapport (Ro \u003d Ry \u003d 5).
Satin and satin weaves give fabrics a smooth, shiny finish.
The front covering in the fabrics of satin weaves is also formed of weft threads, in the fabrics of satin weaves - from the main threads. For example, in a five-strand satin weave, each weft thread overlaps four of the five warp threads. With each subsequent insertion of the weft thread, the overlaps are shifted by two ( fig. fifteen) or three strands. Satin weave - satin negative: each warp thread overlaps four of the five weft threads. The most widespread are satin and atlas with rapports 5, 8, 10. In eight-strand satins and atlases, the shift is equal to three or five strands, in ten-strand ones - three or seven strands.
Satin and satin weaves are produced by such fabrics as satin, satin, eraser, corsetry, etc.
Elongated overlaps give these fabrics resistance to friction, but the weak anchoring of long overlaps in the fabric structure increases their crumbling.
Small-patterned weaves are subdivided into derivatives and combined. This is the most numerous class of weaving weaves. Such interweaving creates simple patterns on fabrics in the form of scars, stripes, “herringbones”, squares, rhombuses, etc. The sizes of the patterns usually do not exceed 1 cm and depend on the warp rapport (up to 24 threads) and the thickness of the warp and weft threads. Unlike simple weaves in finely patterned, warp and weft rapports can be different.
The derivatives of the twill weave include reinforced, broken, reverse and complex twill.
TO complex weaves include double-faced, double-layer, pique, pile, loop and leno. Such fabrics are produced from several (three or more) systems of warp and weft threads. Additional systems of threads during the production of these fabrics are introduced to increase the thickness, density, and improve heat-shielding properties.
Large-patterned weaves have a large rapport and can be worked out only on jacquard looms. Large-patterned weave patterns are extremely diverse in size, shape, color, theme, plots: geometric and floral ornaments, floral patterns, complex compositions in panels, paintings, tapestries, carpets, etc. Large-patterned weaves are divided into simple and complex.
- Plain coarse weaves are formed from two systems of threads and are used for the production of tablecloths, napkins, linen and half-linen towels and a wide range of fabrics: cotton damask, satin-jacquard; silk damasse, alpacas, tavar, dudun, damask, brocade; woolen dress and some coat fabrics; linen curtains, decorative, elegant linen and g.
- Complex large-patterned weaves are formed from three or more systems of threads and can have patterns of various textures: pile, looped, embossed, flat multicolor, etc. Carpets, tapestries, pike bedspreads, furniture and decorative fabrics, a diverse range of fabrics for clothing are produced by complex large-patterned weaves.
