Good afternoon, today’s article will be devoted to TRANSFER OF A DOTTER. We will move the dart from the place where it is on the pattern (that is, from the shoulder seam) to its classic place (on the side seam). All tailors perform a similar manipulation after construction. basic pattern, in the case, of course, if this dart is not transferred somewhere else, following the constructive intent of the fashion designer. You may have questions... Why do you need to move this dart at all, is it necessary? Is it possible to immediately draw a chest dart on the side seam, so that you don’t have to move it there every time? I will be happy to answer.
First of all, we will need your basic dress pattern. Just in case, I remind you that you can easily create your basic dress pattern using our program: just enter your measurements into the form and click the “generate” button. The program itself will perform all the necessary constructions and calculations. Online generator of a basic dress pattern here:
Why move the dart?
The dart is moved to the side seam (5-7 cm below the armpit) so that it is not as noticeable as it would be if the designer had decided to leave it on the shoulder. If you open your closet with blouses and dresses, you will see that all the bust darts are on classic models located in this very side seam, there they, covered with a hand, do not catch the eye and do not interfere with the designer’s imagination.
Is it possible to immediately draw the dart where it should be - on the side seam?
The fact is that creating a pattern for a specific dress initially involves changing the Basic pattern IN STRICT ACCORDANCE WITH THE SILHOUETTE OF THE DRESS, ITS STYLE AND OTHER CUT ELEMENTS. The tuck is one of these very “cutting elements”. And in different dresses this groove is transferred to different places. Most often (in the classic version) its location is 5-7 cm below the armpit. But there are dresses (and we will sew them with you) where the chest dart is transferred to the waist, neckline, armhole, etc. In each specific case, when modeling a particular style of dress, we will each time move the dart to the place where it is provided for by the laws of cutting this particular dress.
In our article today we will look in detail at transferring the dart to the side seam, because... in the vast majority of dress styles our tuck that's where it's located. So let's get started...
How to transfer a dart to a side seam
This is a very simple process - and it will take you no more than 2-3 minutes.
This is what our pattern looks like with darts on the shoulder seam. (Have you already ordered your basic pattern on our service? Here: link) If you leave this dart here and close it, it will create the bulge we need for our chest, BUT on our dress there will be a not very attractive seam in the center of each shoulder. We don't need this, so we we will move the dart to a less accessible place - to the side seam.
Take a pencil and a ruler. On the pattern from the bottom edge of the armhole down measure 5-7 cm - put a dot in this place.
Now we find the top of our chest dart - here it is. And we draw a line connecting the top of the chest dart with the point that we measured on the side line of the pattern.
We take scissors and along this line make a cut WITHOUT REACHING 2 CM to the top of the dart.
now we manually close the dart on the shoulder and a new dart automatically opens in the very place where we just made the cut. That's all - all that remains is to seal the old dart with tape (so that it does not open back).
So we have a new dart on the side seam under the armpit. As you can see in the photo below, this new dart performs its function remarkably well - that is, exactly the same as the old one, it creates a voluminous bulge for your breasts.
And now you can continue cutting your dress, with full confidence that the new dart will fit perfectly into the shape of your bust, and the bodice of your dress will fit you well.
As you can see, the whole point of transferring a dart (no matter to what place) comes down to the following: we make a cut in the place where we want to move the dart, close the old dart, and we automatically create a new dart (by pushing apart the cut parts of the pattern). Using exactly the same principle, we will transfer the darts to any place planned by the cut. We will encounter the transfer of a dart more than once when modeling different styles of dresses, and each time I will tell you in detail and show you step by step the entire process of transferring a dart to a new place.
Happy sewing!
A bodice with side darts is very popular among craftswomen due to the ease of modeling and sewing the product. This method of modeling can be successfully used where complex shapes are not needed, because due to the minimum of seams on the bodice, you can very advantageously show, for example, an original print or fabric texture. This design option can be used when sewing dresses, blouses, and shirts.
Advice! Before you start modeling, draw and determine the angle of inclination of the side dart. It can be positioned at different angles relative to the top of the bust dart, depending on the model.
Modeling a dress pattern with side darts
To model darts, use one, which we hope you already have in your arsenal. If you do not have a basic dress pattern and are not yet ready to build it yourself, we offer you. From five life-size sizes, choose the one that fits your measurements best.
From the bottom point of the armhole, set aside 5-6 cm down the side (the value is not constant and may vary depending on the model of the product). On the pattern, mark the point C.G. (center of the chest) and extend the chest dart by connecting the extreme points of the dart with the center of the chest point (new top of the chest dart). From point 5-6, draw a segment to the top of the bust dart (C.G. - center of the chest). Cut the pattern along the modeling line. Close the chest dart and shorten the opened side dart by 2 cm (Fig. 1).
Rice. 1. Modeling a dress pattern with a side dart
IMPORTANT! When moving the chest dart to the side line, you can not shift the top of the dart to the Center of the chest point, in this case the modeling will look like in Fig. 2 and 3.
From the bottom point of the bodice armhole, set aside 3-5 cm (the value is not constant and may vary depending on the model of the product). Connect point 3-5 to the Center of the chest point and make a cut from the side to the point C.G.
Rice. 2. Transferring the dart to the side line
Next, cut the chest dart along one side and close it. To do this, you need to cut the pattern along one of the sides of the chest dart to the C.G. point and, aligning the sides of the dart, glue it together. The side dart opens automatically to the desired depth.
Then shorten the opened bust dart by 1.5-2 cm so that its top moves to the left of the center of the bust.
What is it for? A slightly shorter dart will smoothly fit the contours of the bust and will not create sharp angles.
The finished bodice pattern is shown in Fig. 2b. The bodice is cut with a fold along the middle front line.
Rice. 3. Bodice with side dart
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23:40 Unknown 16 Comments
Hello, in this article we will look at one of the methods of constructive modeling - changing the three-dimensional shape of the basic design of a dress by remodeling the chest dart and shoulder dart of the back.
Some models shoulder clothing There are more voluminous shapes in comparison with the basic design of the dress. One way to obtain such a shape from a basic structure is through structural modeling. As the volume increases, the nature of the supporting surfaces changes - the gap between the figure and the clothing along the chest line increases, which leads to greater separation of the side sections of the back and front from the surface of the figure. In other words, in the front at the level of the chest line and on the back in the area of the shoulder blades, the curvature of the surface is reduced, and the product turns out to be flatter, not emphasizing the chest.
Structurally, this model form is achieved by reducing the openings of the upper front dart and the shoulder dart of the back, up to their complete elimination by remodeling the base darts.
Under dart demodeling understand the transfer of any part of the solution into sections of the product (armhole, neckline, hemline, etc.) in order to lengthen these sections, which allows you to obtain a flatter shape that does not emphasize the shape of the body.
I propose to consider how to properly model darts. To begin with, let's move to Blank sheet paper details of the basic design of the dress and be sure to mark the control points of the armhole.
In three-dimensional products, waist darts, as a rule, are not used (depending on the product model). Therefore, we can simply remove the darts along the waistline on the front and back. Depending on the model and style of the product, the solution of the waist darts along the side sections of both parts is reduced partially or completely; in accordance with this, new side sections are built. If there is a notch along the waist line on the middle line of the back, then this dart can also be removed and a new middle cut of the back can be drawn.
Well, now let's move on to modeling the darts.
Shelf modeling
To perform modeling on the front drawing, we will construct auxiliary lines for those sections where it is possible to model the share of the chest dart:
in the middle line- an auxiliary line is constructed from the top of the chest dart to the line of the middle of the front at a right angle;
to the armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the chest dart to the armhole line of the front 1-2 cm above the reference point;
to the bottom line- from the top of the chest dart, a vertical line is built to the bottom line of the shelf.
Thus, we can model the chest dart: in the line of the shoulder, in the line of the middle, in the line of the armhole and in the line of the bottom of the front.
Let's consider several options for modeling a chest dart.
First way
Let's cut the front part along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the hem line.
Let's translate the solution of the chest dart:
to the armhole line can be remodeled up to 2cm,
in line with the shoulder- up to 1cm,
we will unmodel the rest to the bottom line shelves.
When translating the dart, the cuts were broken, let's draw a new shoulder line, armhole line and hem line.
And so, we got a shelf without a chest dart.
Since we unmodeled the dart into the shoulder line by up to 1 cm, the shoulder line was accordingly lengthened by this amount. If the model does not require this, this value is cut off from the end of the arm. We also lengthened the bottom line, that is, the shelf expanded towards the bottom line. If such extension along the hemline is not desired, then half or 2/3 of this extension can be removed from the side line.
Second way
This method is used if the product V-neck neckline or jacket-type collar.
We cut the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the middle line.
Now you need to rotate the upper central part around the cut point on the middle line so that the center of the chest drops by 0.5-1 cm. The remaining part of the dart can be modeled into the armhole line, but the permissible value is up to 2 cm.
We draw a new section of the armhole, and a neckline or collar is built along the middle line, in accordance with the model of the product. And again we got a shelf without a chest dart.
Third way(modeling to the middle line)
If the front is not split or has a blind fastener, then you can use this method of unmodeling the chest dart.
Let's cut the shelf part along all the constructed auxiliary lines.
This time, the upper part of the shelf must be lowered parallel to the cut line by up to 1 cm. We transfer the chest dart solution up to 2 cm to the armhole line, the remaining part to the bottom line.
By lowering the upper part of the shelf by up to 1 cm, we shortened the line of the middle of the shelf by this amount. Therefore, it is necessary to lengthen the front by the amount of reduction of the shelf along the chest line. Then we will draw a new armhole line and a hem line.
The extension of the shelf along the bottom line can also be reduced by removing half or 2/3 of this extension from the side cut.
Back modeling
To model the shoulder dart for the convexity of the shoulder blades, we will also need to construct auxiliary lines for the back sections:
to the armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the shoulder groove to the middle of the armhole section from the control point to the end shoulder point;
to the bottom line- the cut line is drawn first horizontally from the control point of the armhole to a length of 1.5-2 cm, and then vertically down.
Based on this, we can model the shoulder dart of the back into two zones: in the shoulder line and in the armhole line.
Let's cut the back part along the auxiliary lines and transfer the shoulder dart solution:
in line with the shoulder- the same amount as on the shelf, in order to maintain the fit (up to 1cm)
to the armhole line- transfer the remaining part of the dart (up to 1-2cm).
In addition, along the bottom line it is necessary to perform exactly the same expansion that we got on the shelf.
Let's draw new cuts along the line of the shoulder, armhole and bottom. If on the shelf along the shoulder line an extension is cut off, which was obtained after demodeling the chest dart, then on the back it is also possible to cut off this extension from the end of the shoulder. It is also possible to leave the shoulder section of the back longer than the shoulder line of the front; during the sewing process, this difference is applied to the fit of the back shoulder.
Thus, we have a back pattern without a shoulder dart.
In products with split back
along the middle line there is another possible zone into which part of the shoulder dart can be modeled - this is the middle line of the back. It is permissible to model up to 0.6 cm of a shoulder dart on this section of the back.
In this case, the back neckline becomes wider by this amount. If, according to the product model, neck expansion is not desirable, then the shoulder line on the neck side can be extended by the amount of neck expansion, and the same amount can be cut off from the end of the shoulder. Next, new sections of the neckline and back armhole are constructed.
Sleeve modeling
When modeling the chest dart and shoulder dart of the back on both parts, we lengthened the armhole. Therefore, we need to change the sleeve cap. To do this, we will draw two cut lines on the sleeve pattern. The first line runs perpendicular to the elbow line from the top of the elbow dart to the sleeve cap.
Let's construct the second line as follows: measure the length of the collar from the first line to the line of the middle of the sleeve. We will put the resulting value along the edge from the middle line towards the front cut of the sleeve. Divide the bottom line of the sleeve in the area from the front cut to the middle line in half.
We connect the resulting points with a straight line, which will be the second cut line.
We cut the sleeve along the drawn lines.
Now we spread our sleeve along the edge so that the expansion is equal to the amount of unmodeling of the dart into the armhole of the front and back minus 0.5-1 cm. be careful, the amount of dart demodeling on both parts is different, but from each value we subtract 0.5-1 cm. What value to subtract depends on how much wide sleeve must be obtained.
We draw a new edging line with a rise along the middle line by 1-2 cm.
And our sleeve pattern for the new armhole is ready.
When modeling a chest dart, you should know that a figure with big breasts(size 52+) in products with set-in sleeves, a good fit cannot be achieved without a chest dart. Therefore, it is better to limit the modeling of the chest dart to size 52.
In conclusion, I will add: the shape of a product without a chest and shoulder dart can be obtained not only by modeling the basic design, but also by building such a design at once, lengthening the armhole, lengthening the front line and expanding the shoulder line. But more on that in the next publications!
A tuck is a constructive technique with the help of which a three-dimensional shape of a product is achieved and a uniform fit of a flat material of a complex body configuration is achieved. The main structural darts on the product correspond to certain convex areas of the figure. The upper dart of the shelf reveals the volume of the mammary gland and is located from the edge of the part towards the protruding point of the chest (determined on the pattern by the measurements Cg and Bg). The dart from the waist up on the front pattern is also directed to the same point. The chest dart is always directed to the center of the chest and can be moved to the armhole, side cut, mid-front line, waist, neckline, and can be replaced with tucks and gathers. To develop the design of models of complex shapes, they usually use a basic bodice base with set-in sleeves, in which darts are located from the shoulder sections of the back and front, from the side sections and from the waist line.
Transferring the bust dart to the waistline.
To move the chest dart to the waist line, mark its new position, then cut the pattern along this line and, having closed (laid) the main dart, open it in a new place (Fig. 1). 
Fig.1. To achieve smoothness when processing a bulge on the chest, the dart should not reach the center of the chest by 1-2cm. The dart can be sewn in completely or partially, leaving softness under the bust line. Instead of a dart along the cut of the waistline, you can design an gather. In this case, the bodice is usually lengthened by 3-5 cm to create an overlap. A soft, voluminous bodice is recommended for figures who need to hide excessive thinness. A wide tuck opening can be distributed into several shallow folds - tucks.
Moving the chest dart to the side cut.
To do this, draw the line of the intended dart on the front part from the side cut to the center of the chest and cut along the intended line. The chest dart from the shoulder seam is closed by aligning the cuts (Fig. 2, a).
Fig.2.
The dart obtained in this way, to achieve smoothness during processing, is not brought to the center of the chest by 3-4 cm. Using the line drawn from the side cut, you can model a cut flank, the contours of which form a rectangular relief line running through the center of the chest from the side cut to the waist line (Fig. 2, b). The vertical part of the relief is led along the dart of the waist line. The relief is decorated with decorative stitching and piping for expressiveness. If the product is made of striped or checkered fabric, the barrel can be cut at an angle of 45° to the warp thread.
Moving the dart to the neckline.
The dart into the neckline is designed in the same way as darts from the armhole, from the side cut, etc., i.e., the desired direction of the new dart is outlined, cut, closing the dart from the shoulder seam.
Fig.3. In this case, the chest dart is distributed between the dart from the side cut and from the neck. The waistline is formed by gathering (Fig. 3). The open dart from the neckline is connected to the dart from the armhole, and the upper side part of the bodice is cut off. The resulting relief can be decorated with decorative stitching, piping, lace, finishing buttons, snaps, and embroidery on the cutting part. The neckline dart can be replaced by two opposing folds located in front at its center. The drawing is developed according to the same rules for moving the dart into the neck. In this case, determine the position of the counter fold on the neckline, for which 2.5 cm is set aside from the mid-front line along the neckline. Draw a cutting line from the neck line to the center of the chest, cut it, chopping off the chest dart from the shoulder section with pins (Fig. 4).
Fig.4.
The pattern of the front (front) of the bodice obtained in this way is transferred to paper again, marking a counter fold in the dart solution. The neck line is marked and cut with the fold closed to obtain an accurate cut. Ready pattern Trace onto the fabric, adding seam allowances. The neckline is marked and cut only when the darts are inserted. The resulting configuration is reproduced on the fabric by adding seam allowances along the sections. Finished darts can be stitched from the reverse side, stitched along the front side of the product completely or partially, leaving a soft shape above the bust line. Instead of darts, the neckline can be decorated with gathering.
Fig.5.
Moving the chest dart into soft folds at the widened neckline.
This cut can be used for dresses and blouses made of light silk or cotton fabric. Instead of folds, the neckline is also decorated with ruffles. The model is suitable for young and slender people. To make a pattern on the basic basis of a bodice with set-in sleeves, mark a new neck line. Next, from the line of the middle front on the widened neck, lay two 3 cm. The resulting points (and the central point of the neck) are connected by straight lines to the center of the chest (Fig. 6, a).
Fig.6.
On the side cut line, set aside 3 cm from the armhole and draw a straight line from this point to the center of the chest. Clip off the chest dart and cut the pattern along the marked lines. The tuck solution is distributed evenly into the folds (Fig. 6, b).
Replacing the chest dart with puffs or pleats from the shoulder section.
The locations of the folds are marked on the shoulder cut line. The position of the first fold is 4-4.5 cm from the neckline. Then the chest line is drawn on the pattern. The position of the folds is also noted on it: for two folds, 2.5 cm are set aside from the center of the dart to the right, for three - 2.5-4 cm to the left and right. The shoulder cut points are connected to the resulting points along the chest line. The chest dart solution is distributed into the number of folds provided for by the model (Fig. 7).
Fig.7.
The folds may be soft or partially stitched. This cut is recommended for smaller busted figures to create the desired volume. In this case, folds can be replaced by gathering and puffs. For figures with large breasts, this cut (with partially stitched folds) can also be recommended, but with the aim of hiding excessive volume
Replacing a bust dart with a fold at the armhole line.
Mark a fold line parallel to the armhole to the level of the chest line and then from the armhole to the center the line of the bust dart. The pattern is cut along the marked lines, simultaneously closing the chest dart. The shoulder cut is made with the resulting fold closed at the armhole (Fig. 8).
Fig.8.
The edge of the fold can run at a distance of 1-2cm from the armhole or exactly along the armhole line. In this case, a seam allowance is added to the pattern along the armhole, and a cut is made along the intended seam for setting in the sleeve. Folds at the armhole are usually made in straight, free-form products. If the dress has a cut-off waistline, then gathers or soft folds can be placed along the shoulder section of the bodice.
Moving the bodice darts to the mid-front line.
On the bodice of the base, mark the desired direction of the dart. To do this, draw a straight line from a point located 1-2 cm below the chest line to the mid-front line at an angle. The centers of the chest and waist darts are connected. The bodice is cut along the marked lines, aligning and pinning the warp darts. The resulting tuck solution is laid towards the waist line and in this form the line of the middle front is aligned (Fig. 9).
This bodice cut is interesting for making products from striped fabrics. The mid-front line is placed on the fabric along the grain thread (and therefore along the strip). And after the dart is ground off, the strip lies on the product at an angle, along the line of the dart, connecting along the line of the middle front of the bodice in a herringbone pattern. The direction angle of the dart depends on the size of the mammary glands and the size of the waist. Therefore, when developing a bodice pattern, the direction of the dart can be found using a dummy method by pinning a fabric or paper pattern marked with a strip onto the figure.
Moving the chest dart to the undercut from the armhole.
At the level of 1/3 of the height of the armhole, a cutting line is marked on the base pattern. The length of the undercut should not reach 1cm from the width of the neckline. Cut the front along the intended line and close the chest dart above the undercut line, after which the dart from the armhole side will open, and the lower edge of the undercut will lengthen to form gathers (Fig. 10).
Fig. 10.
To obtain large quantity gathers on the shelf, from the hem down, the pattern can be cut and spread on the fabric to the desired size. Using the same principle, you can make a pattern with any shape of undercut. The location of the undercut (above or below) is determined on the figure, observing the general proportions of the product. When moving the shelf from the undercut to the side, folds can be designed in this area (Fig. 11).
Fig. 11.
Changing the silhouette of a product by transferring darts.
By moving the darts, you can change the shape and silhouette of the product. So, when transferring the shoulder dart to the waist or hip line, we get a pattern for a product with a flared silhouette (Fig. 9).
Fig. 12.
Thus creating a flared pattern along the line side seam you need to give an allowance in the amount of 1/2-1/4 of the allowance obtained as a result of transferring the dart.
The length of the darts is determined depending on the shape of the convexity, but it is always less than the distance from the contour of the part to the center of movement. The upper (chest) dart of the front is made 2-3 cm shorter than the distance from the shoulder to the center of the chest. The back shoulder dart is usually 7-9cm long. The length and shape of the darts are specified during fitting.
One of the main structural elements women's clothing is a dart that is necessary to give the product the correct appearance, i.e. desired shape. This applies mostly to the lungs. women's dresses, where the chest volume is formed exclusively due to chest darts. These darts can be moved on the bodice in any direction, in accordance with the style of the product :
to the middle of the front, on the waistline, in the side seam, in the armhole, in the neckline, in the yoke, in reliefs, in drapery, in undercuts, etc. With skillful use of this technique, you can develop a huge number of different models of women's clothing.
Main– no matter in which direction you move the dart, its center should always be directed towards the highest point of the chest. In our drawing it is indicated by point G7.
Before you start designing, you must copy the drawing of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper, or rather the part of it that you are going to change.
Let's start simple.
Moving the dart to the side line(in the side seam).
To do this, copy the upper part of the shelf from the pattern of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper.
Rice. 2
We move the chest dart on the base pattern closer to the armhole line by 3 cm and deepen it by 2 cm. To do this, from point B7, continuing the shoulder line, set aside 3 cm and place point 3.
Rice. 3
Draw a vertical line from it down, extending it 2 cm below the level of point G7 and place point 2.
Rice. 4
From point B9 along the shoulder line we set aside 3 cm, we get point 31.
Rice. 5
From point 2 through point 31 we draw a straight line. From point 2 as from the center through point 3 we draw an arc until it intersects with a straight line. We denote the intersection point as 32. We connect points P5 and 32.
Fig.6
We divide the T4P lateral line into three equal parts. We designate the upper division point as 33 and connect it to point 2.
Rice. 7
We cut the shelf along the marked line and move it apart, while closing the chest dart.
Rice. 8
The dart along the waist line can be moved 3 - 4 cm towards the side line.
We correct the shoulder seam with a straight line.
Rice. 9
Everything you have new style bodice of the dress.
Rice. 10
Important rule– there are no hard and fast rules! As with anything, if you want to succeed, don't be afraid to experiment. Success is achieved by those who go beyond generally accepted boundaries, those who are not afraid to go beyond conventions. We offer one of many options as an example only to give you an idea of the principles of modeling. So that you can use them in the future or, conversely, ignore them and surprise yourself and your environment with a new masterpiece. Good luck!
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