Hello dear friends. I thought for a long time where to start ... when approaching "large" products ... and decided to start with leggings ... Why? ... It's just that, in my opinion, it's easier ...)))
Then, when we learn and understand how a leggings pattern is built, on its basis it will be possible to make patterns for tights, panties, shorts, trousers ...
So, let's begin…
Measurements that we need (I put my own measurements, you will have other numbers, like):
- SB - half the circumference of the thighs = 54
- CI - the length of the product (measured on the side of the waist down the leg) = 104
- OH - leg circumference (measured at the bottom line of the leggings) = 22
- Length from waist to waist through groin = 74
When constructing any pattern, such a concept as a grid is used. What it is? Yes, it's just a rectangle, inside which the pattern is placed ... In our case, the width of the mesh is equal to half the circumference of the hips, SHS = SB = 54 cm
Drawing leggings
Construct a rectangle, the width of which is equal to the width of the mesh SHS = SB = 54cm, and the height is equal to the length of the product CI = 104cm
Step line
... From the waistline vertically down to postpone half length from waist to waist through groin 74/2 = 37 cm. Connect the points.
Side line
... Divide the width of the mesh along the waist line in half and draw a vertical line to the bottom line.
Back half waistline
... Continue the back seam line up beyond the waistline by 2-5 cm (take 3cm). connect point 3cm with the point of "halving" on the waist line
Inner seam line
... From the side line along the bottom line to the left and right, set aside half the measurement OH = 22/2 = 11cm (in each direction). Connect the resulting points to the width point on the step line
It remains to circle along the contour)))
Gusset
Option number 1
- Gusset length = SB / 2 = 54/2 = 27 cm.
- Gusset width = 14-15 cm.
Option number 2 (dimensions are the same, the principle of construction is different)
It is used when it is necessary to increase the width of the leggings around the circumference of the leg at the groin (for a full leg)
Option number 3 (for children's leggings)
In small children, usually, the girth of the hips coincides with the girth of the chest (but this is optional) to calculate the gusset, we take 1/6 of the girth of the chest or hips, suppose that OG = OB = 30 cm, which means 1/6 OG or OB = 30 / 6 = 5 cm. Just build a square with a side = 5 cm.
Well, that's all for today))) So the drawing is being built (pattern))) I hope that I drew everything clearly))) And if not, then write ... 8O
Pantaloons are underwear such as tights from the waist to the knees. Clothing has been known by this name since the 40s. XVII century and got its name from the traditional character of the Italian farcical theater Pantaleone, who wore tight pants.
At the end of the 18th century, pantaloons became longer, which led to their wearing on straps (suspenders), which became part of European costume. Subsequently, this type of clothing also began to be used by women as a kind of underwear.
Today, the pantaloons have changed, become shorter, but they still remain in the wardrobe of many women as home lingerie, which is very comfortable to wear, since it does not hinder movement. Pantaloons, trimmed at the bottom with lace, with a touch of retro style, perfectly emphasize the female figure and are at the peak of popularity.
Meanwhile, it is not difficult to sew such pantaloons according to our pattern.
Rice. 1. Pattern of women's pantaloons.
Pattern of women's pantaloons: take measurements
To build a pattern-base for women's pantaloons, you need (size 48):
- Waist circumference - 72 cm
- Hip girth - 98 cm
- Seat height - 26 cm
- Hips height - 21 cm
Pattern of women's pantaloons: building the base
We start construction from the upper left corner, stepping back down and to the right (the drawing will continue to the left and up - see Fig. 1. Pattern of women's pantaloons).
From point A downwards, set aside 26 cm (Seat height as measured) - point A1, from point A1 downwards set aside 3 cm for all sizes. Draw horizontal lines to the right and left from the obtained points.
From point A1 upwards, set aside 1/10 of 1/2 Hip circumference +3 cm for all sizes: 98/2/10 + 3 = 7.9 cm (round up to 8 cm). From the resulting point, draw a horizontal line - the line of the hips. From point A1, to the right, set aside 1/10 of the hip girth according to the measure - point A4 is obtained. Draw a vertical line up from point A4.
Along the line of the hips, set aside 1/2 of the girth of the hips, divide it in half and draw vertical lines upward (we got 2 halves of the pantaloons).
Pattern of the front half of the pantaloons
From point B, put to the right 1/10 of 1/2 Hip circumference +1.5 cm: 98/2/10 + 1.5 = 6.4 cm (round up to 6.5 cm) - point B1. BB2 = 1 / 2BB1. Draw the middle line of the front half of the pantaloons along the pattern.
Tighten the front half of the pantaloons along the bottom line by 1 cm.
Tighten the pantaloons by 1.5 cm along the waist line (from the middle seam). From point 1.5, set aside to the left 1/4 of the waist circumference according to the measurement. Raise the barrel line 1 cm up. Draw the line of the side of the front of the pantaloons along the pattern.
Pattern of the back half of the pantaloons
A1A4 = 9.8 cm (1/10 of the measured hips).
Along the middle seam of the back half of the pantaloons from the waistline, set aside 3 cm to the right. Draw the middle seam of the back half of the pantaloons on the template, continue it up by 4 cm. From point 4, set aside 1/4 of the waist circumference to measure. The side line must be raised by 1 cm. Draw the waist line and the side line of the back half of the pantaloons along the pattern.
Tighten the pantaloons at the bottom by 1 cm. Set aside 2 cm along the side line from the bottom. Draw the bottom line of the pantaloons along the pattern.
Thus, we have built a pantalon pattern, which is the main one.
Pattern of women's pantaloons: what to sew from?
Pantaloons are underwear, which is why you need to choose natural fabrics that are not only comfortable, but also will not irritate the skin, causing discomfort. Fabrics such as natural silk with the addition of elastane, cotton jersey, silk jersey are best suited for pantaloons.
For finishing, you can use lace or stitching.
Calculation of fabric for pantaloons
For pantaloons, one fabric length + 5 cm is required. Measure the finished pattern from the highest point to the lowest point, add 5 cm - this is your measure of the fabric for the pantaloons.
Pattern of women's pantaloons: how to sew
Sweep and grind side and crotch seams with an overlock stitch. Tuck the top of the pantaloons, making a drawstring for the elastic, sew, leaving an unstitched area for threading in the elastic, thread in the elastic of the required length, stitch the unstitched area.
Sew lace on the bottom of the pantaloons. If desired, you can also sew 2 flat thin elastic bands along the bottom.
IMPORTANT! The pattern of the pantaloons is given exactly according to the figure! Pantaloons are sewn only from elastic fabric!
Your pantaloons are ready! Wear it and be happy!
The construction of tapered trousers is taken as a basis.
1. Construct an angle equal to 45 degrees, where
ray A - the axis of the middle seam of the back half of the trousers
ray B - the axis of the cut of the bow of the front half of the trousers
ray B - the bisector of the angle, the axis of the side cut of the trousers
Set aside on rays A and B an equal distance so that the segment between them becomes equal to Sat (half-girth of the hips).
Draw an arc from the vertex of the corner through the vertices of the resulting triangle.
2. From the point of intersection of the arc and ray B, put down the value equal to Bc (seat height), we get the line of the hips.
3. From the point of intersection of the arc and ray B, put down the value equal to Di (the length of the product), we get the bottom line.
4. From the point of intersection of arc 2 (thigh line) and ray A, set aside to the left a value equal to 1/10 About (hip girth)
5. From the point of intersection of arc 2 (thigh line) and ray B, set aside to the right a value equal to 1/10 Sat (half hip girth) + P (increase in freedom 0.2-0.7 cm)
6. From arc 2 along beam B, set aside a value equal to (item 4 + item 5) / 2 and draw an auxiliary reference arc
7. Connect with a smooth curved line the point obtained in step 4 and the point of intersection of the auxiliary arc and ray A.
8. Connect a sharp curved line between the point obtained in step 5 and the point of intersection of the auxiliary arc and ray B.
9. Draw through the point obtained in paragraph 4, a line parallel to ray A.
10. Draw through the point obtained in step 5 a line parallel to ray B.
11. Circle the resulting pants.
The layout sewn on this pattern looks like this 
Ready-made pumpkin pants in the historical style so 
The base is designed for pants of medium splendor without a side seam, with gathering at the waist and bottom of the legs.
If necessary, you can increase the value of the original angle, then the assembly will become more magnificent.
Pattern of women's pantaloons - we build the basis
Pantaloons are underwear such as tights from the waist to the knees. Clothing has been known by this name since the 40s. XVII century and got its name from the traditional character of the Italian farcical theater Pantaleone, who wore tight pants.
At the end of the 18th century, pantaloons became longer, which led to their wearing on straps (suspenders), which became part of European costume. Subsequently, this type of clothing also began to be used by women as a kind of underwear.
Today, the pantaloons have changed, become shorter, but they still remain in the wardrobe of many women as home lingerie, which is very comfortable to wear, since it does not hinder movement. Pantaloons, trimmed at the bottom with lace, with a touch of retro style, perfectly emphasize the female figure and are at the peak of popularity.
Meanwhile, it is not difficult to sew such pantaloons according to our pattern.
Pattern of women's pantaloons
Rice. 1. Pattern of women's pantaloons. Click to enlarge
Pattern of women's pantaloons: take measurements
To build a pattern for the base of women's pantaloons, take the following measurements (size 38):
Waist girth - 72cm
Hip girth - 98cm
Seat height - 26cm
Hips height - 21cm
Pattern of women's pantaloons: building the base
We start construction from the upper left corner, stepping back down and to the right (the drawing will continue to the left and up - see Fig. 1. Pattern of women's pantaloons).
From point A downwards, postpone 26cm (Seat height as measured) - point A1, from point A1 downward postpone 3cm for all sizes. Draw horizontal lines to the right and left from the obtained points.
From point A1 upwards, set aside 1/10 of 1/2 Hip circumference + 3cm for all sizes: 98/2/10 + 3 = 8cm. Draw a horizontal line from point A1 - the line of the hips.
Along the line of the hips, set aside 1/2 of the girth of the hips, divide it in half and draw vertical lines upward (we got 2 halves of the pantaloons).
Pattern of the front half of the pantaloons
From point B, put to the right 1/10 of 1/2 Hip circumference + 1.5cm: 98/2/10 + 1.5 = 7.5cm - point B1. BB2 = 1 / 2BB1. Draw the middle line of the front half of the pantaloons along the pattern.
Tighten the front half of the pantaloons along the bottom line by 1 cm.
Narrow the pantaloons at the waistline by 1.5 cm (from the middle seam). From point 1.5, set aside to the right 1/4 of the waist circumference according to the measurement. Raise the line of the barrel 1 cm up. Draw the line of the side of the front of the pantaloons along the pattern.
Pattern of the back half of the pantaloons
A1A4 = 9.8cm (1/10 Hip circumference to measure).
Along the middle seam of the back half of the pantaloons from the waistline, set aside 3 cm to the right. Draw the middle seam of the back half of the pantaloons along the pattern, continue it up by 4 cm. From point 4, set aside 1/4 of the waist to measure. Raise the side line by 1 cm. Draw the waist line and the side line of the back half of the pantaloons along the pattern.
Tighten the pantaloons at the bottom by 1cm. Set aside 2cm along the side line from the bottom. Draw the bottom line of the pantaloons along the pattern.
Thus, we have built a pantalon pattern, which is the main one.
Pattern of women's pantaloons: what to sew from?
Pantaloons are underwear, which is why you need to choose natural fabrics that are not only comfortable, but also will not irritate the skin, causing discomfort. Fabrics such as natural silk with the addition of elastane, cotton jersey, silk jersey are best suited for pantaloons.
For finishing, you can use lace or stitching.
Calculation of fabric for pantaloons
Pantaloons require one fabric length + 5cm. Measure the finished pattern from the highest point to the lowest point, add 5cm - this is your measure of the fabric for the pantaloons. Calculation of fabric
Pattern of women's pantaloons: how to sew
Sweep and grind side and crotch seams with an overstitch seam. Tuck the top of the pantaloons, making a drawstring for the elastic, sew, leaving an unstitched area for threading in the elastic, thread in the elastic of the required length, stitch the unstitched area.
Tie lace on the bottom of the pantaloons. If desired, 2 flat thin elastic bands can also be stitched along the bottom.
IMPORTANT! The pattern of the pantaloons is given exactly according to the figure! Pantaloons are sewn only from elastic fabric!
Your pantaloons are ready! Wear it and be happy!
Pattern of women's panties: pattern-base and modeling
We have already built together with you a pattern for women's pantaloons and told in detail what kind of fabric and how to sew them. Today we will build a pattern for women's panties.
Women's panties are an integral part of the daily wardrobe of absolutely any girl. At first glance, it seems quite easy to buy women's panties, however, almost no one thinks about the fact that women's panties are entrusted with quite a lot of important functions.
First, women's panties must be comfortable. It is completely unacceptable for this piece of underwear that you buy to squeeze, chafe or otherwise cause you discomfort. Secondly, they must be made from high quality natural fabrics. And thirdly, you should like them! Now you have the opportunity to sew your own panties, such as you want!
Pattern of women's panties: take measurements
To create a pattern for the base of women's panties, you need to take the following measurements (size 38):
Waist girth - 72cm
Hip girth - 98cm
Seat height - 26cm
Hips height - 21cm
Rice. 1 a-b. Pattern of women's panties
Women's panties pattern: construction
We begin the construction of the pattern of women's panties from the upper left corner - point T. From point T down to postpone 26 cm - Height of the seat by measure and length of the gusset LL1 = 1/10 Hip circumference by measure minus 1 cm. Draw horizontal lines from points T, L, L1.
From point L1 along a horizontal line to the right, set aside 1/4 of the hip girth by measuring minus 1.5 cm - point B. From point B draw a vertical upwards - point B1.
B1B2 = 21cm - Measured hips height.
Waist line of women's panties. From point T to the right to put aside 1/4 of the waist circumference - point T1. Connect points T1 and B2.
Top line of panties. From point T downward, lay 7cm, from point T1 along the line T1B2 - 6cm. Connect points T and T1 with a straight line.
Side seam of women's panties. T2T3 = 4cm.
Gusset seam. To shift the gusset seam from point L1 up and down, set aside 2.2 cm (1/4 length of the gusset): 1/4 X (1/10 Hip circumference by measure minus 1 cm) = 1 / 4X (98 / 10-1) = 1 / 4X8.8 = 2.2cm.
From the points obtained, draw horizontal lines to the right with a length of 3.5 cm. Connect the obtained points with point T3 (see Fig. 1-a. Pattern of women's panties).
Pattern of women's panties: modeling the front and back halves
From points 3.5, set aside 1 cm up and down. draw 2 curved lines along the pattern (see Fig. 1-b. Pattern of women's panties).
Raise the line of the upper edge of the back half of the panties by 1cm, lower the line of the upper edge of the front half of the panties by 1cm.
Move the side line of the back half of the panties by 1.5 cm to the right, shift the side line of the front half of the panties by 1.5 cm to the left.
Cut-out line of the front half of the panties. Divide the auxiliary line in half and set aside 6.5 cm from the division point. Draw a cut line for the front half of your panty.
Cutout line of the back half of the panties. Divide the auxiliary construction line in half and set aside 0.5-1 cm from the division point. On the pattern, draw a cutout line for the back half of the panties.
Gusset of women's panties. From the bottom of the front half of the panties, set aside 8 cm up and draw a horizontal line. Reshoot the gusset and cut it out separately.
Let's talk today a little about vintage clothing, or rather, about the most intimate part of it for our ancestors - about underwear.
Various cutting and sewing courses have been popular at all times, and a couple of centuries ago they were considered almost the only type of education decent for a girl from a good family.
Studying clothing modeling, the girls pursued different goals - for people from low-income families, for example, it was a way to earn extra money or a means of saving the family budget. Well, for you and me, acquaintance with the cutting and sewing technique of the 19th century is not only a small excursion into the past, but also an opportunity to compare modern and retro styles, learn how to sew according to the old technique, if you wish, and pamper yourself with some funny piquant little thing.
So, we cut and sew underwear together with the teacher of the craft school of the St. Petersburg Imperial Women's Patriotic Society (1898)
Women's pantaloons (as well as children's and men's, of course) are the most essential wardrobe item of that time. There were several popular models of this type of lingerie, but we will consider the simplest sewing technique - open pantaloons.
To make a pattern, you need two measurements:
- the length of the pantaloons (from the waist and about 10 cm below the knee);
- Waist.
Pattern drawing
A large sheet of paper is folded in half along the long side and placed on the table with a fold on the left side. Having departed 10 cm from the top, draw a horizontal line, lay the length of the pantaloons down from it (right along the fold) and mark this with point A.
1. From point A to the right, draw a horizontal line on which a distance equal to a quarter of the waist volume is measured with the addition of 7-10 cm. This distance is called the width of the lower part of the shoe - point B. (Example: if OT = 64, then a quarter is 16 cm + 7 cm = 23 cm. This distance is optimal for women of average height, full and tall, it is recommended to add 8-10 cm instead of 7 cm).
2. To determine the length of the step of the footwear and the length of the body (up to the waist), the length of the footwear set aside in item 1 along the fold is halved. This size is laid along the fold, marked with a dot and a horizontal line is drawn to the right.
3. To determine the length of the step, measure half the length of the shoe along the middle horizontal line with the addition of 7 cm - this distance is marked on the drawing with point C. Point C is connected with a dotted line to point B. A perpendicular straight line 4 cm high is drawn to the center of the dotted line and connected through this the top of point B and C with a concave line.
4. To determine the width of the front of the pantaloons along the upper horizontal line, lay a segment equal to a quarter of the waist with the addition of 10 cm (in this example - 16 cm + 10 cm = 26 cm), the resulting point D is connected to point C with a dotted line. From the middle of the dotted line, a perpendicular segment equal to 2-3 cm is laid to the left and points D1 and C are connected through this top with a concave line. For a better fit in the figure, 2 cm are laid down from point D and this point is connected with a concave line with the upper left corner of the pattern.
Back of the pattern
The back of the women's pantaloons is made slightly wider and longer than the front, therefore, 5-7 cm are measured from point D to the right along the horizontal line, mark this place with point E, connecting it with a slightly rounded dotted line with point C. From the middle of the dotted line, draw a perpendicular 1 cm high and through its top is connected by points E and C, after which this line is extended upward by a distance of 7 cm and this point is connected to the upper left corner of the pattern.
The pattern is cut, starting from the bottom lines of the overshoot, the step length and then - the top of the pantaloons - this way we get a pattern for the back of the pantaloons. To get the front part, the upper half of the pattern is cut along the lines passing through the points C, D1 and the upper left corner of the fold of the paper.
Pattern location on paper:
If the width of the canvas is not enough to cut out the entire galoshes from it, and you have to resort to attachments, then when sewing, first of all, you need to sew on the necessary attachments; they are sewn with a seam over the edge, if there is an edge, and sewing, if there is no edge.
Then the bottom of the pantaloons is trimmed: scars, folds are laid, shuttlecocks, stitches, embroideries, tambour or braided laces, etc. are sewn on. The pantaloons are sewn with a French or sewn seam.
Both pantaloons, in their front part, are sant. by 12-15 (counting this size from above) they are sewn together with a sewn seam; the rest of the pantaloons are not sewn and trimmed with a braid or an oblique strap.
The top of the pantaloons is trimmed with a straight sash and a semicircular or round yoke.
The sash and yoke are made double. The yoke is sometimes trimmed at the top with a tape that will prevent it from stretching. The drawstring is made in the full width of the sash.
Yoke pattern
When drawing up a yoke pattern, you need to have a waist measurement. In our example, the waist is determined at 64 cm. These 64 cm are divided into 4 equal parts and add another 3 cm to one-fourth part. Dividing 64 by 4, we get 16; add 3 to 16 - we get 19. 19 cm and determine the half size of the yoke.
Having determined the measure, they begin to draw a plan and patterns for the yoke. Mark each part with a dot and connect them with transverse lines, drawing a plan, outline a yoke.
Along the upper horizontal line, from the right corner to the left, and along the right share line,
from its upper end downwards, measure 3 cm each, mark with dots that
then connect with an oblique line (this line will determine the width of the side part
coquette).
