Size 56
A down jacket made of shiny raincoat fabric with a hood trimmed with fox fur is suitable for a woman of any age.
To complete the model you will need: 1.6 m of raincoat fabric of practical colors 1.5 m wide, 1.3 m of lining fabric 1.5 m wide, 1.3 m of synthetic padding, shoulder pads, zipper, strip of natural , fur for the hood trim:
Cut out down jacket patterns
Shelf - 2 parts
Back. 2 parts
Hood - 2 parts
Sleeve - 2 parts
Leaflet for welt pocket- 4 parts
Cut out all the parts from the main, lining and synthetic padding fabric (Fig. 8, b), while making seam allowances of 1.5 cm.
In addition to the listed details, you need to cut out 2 burlap pockets measuring 18 x 20 cm from the main and lining fabric.
Description of work
Make welt pockets with a leaf on both sides of the jacket. Pull out the leaves cleanly and stitch from the front side to the edge. Attach the front side of the leaf to the front side of the shelf and stitch along the markings. Pin the burlap pocket made from the main fabric to the cut line opposite the leaf and stitch it, leaving 0.5 cm on each side of the seam. Make a cut, cut diagonally towards the ends of the lines, being careful not to touch the pocket details. Turn the burlap fabric inside out and iron the leaf onto the cut. Sew the burlap pocket from the lining fabric to the seam allowances of the stitching leaves. Turn the triangles in the corners of the slit to the wrong side and stitch the pockets onto the burlap, which are then aligned and stitched together. Sew the narrow sides of the leaf to the shelves using hidden stitches.
Attach the padding polyester parts to the parts made of the Main fabric, lay stitches on the front side in the form of stripes at the same distance.
Connect the shelves and the back with a basting seam, sew the side and shoulder seams.
Sew the edges of the sleeves from the wrong side and turn them right side out.
Sew in the sleeves, slightly fitting them along the edges. Attach shoulder pads to the shoulder seams.
Carefully stitch together the parts of the hood, first making darts. Sew the hood pieces from the lining fabric and stitch the lining to the under-flex of the hood from the wrong side. Turn the hood right side out and sew it into the neck of the jacket.
Sew the seams of the lining fabric parts together, stitch the lining flaps to the inner edges of the main fabric lining.
Stitch, shoulders shvzh lining and seams on the sleeves, which are then sewn into the armholes of the lining.
Fold the sleeves of the jacket and carefully connect them to the lining fabric.
Sew the zipper between the main fabric lining.
Down jacket pattern - cut details; 1 - shelf; 2 - back; 3 — hood; 4 — sleeve; 5 - leaflet for welt pocket. (Enlarge the pattern by 10.1 times.)
Description of appearance:
Women's insulated down jacket coat with a central side fastener with a zipper and six buttons. Coat with a cocoon silhouette, with a curved hem, length below the knee line. A shelf with a dart-undercut from the side seam, in which a pocket with a finishing flap is processed. The back is one-piece. Single-seam set-in sleeve. The collar is a stand-up collar, fastened with buttons. Down jacket with removable hood, fastened with a zipper. The hood can be decorated with a “fur trim”.
Difficulty level: not difficult, but takes time and patience
Technical drawing of the model:
Structural additions to this model: to chest circumference 20 cm, to waist circumference 32 cm; to hip circumference 15-18 cm.
Material recommendations: the main material is from the group of raincoat fabrics, plain; insulation - (artificial (sintepon) or mixed layer with natural additives (cotton, sheep or camel's wool) or their substitutes (bamboo, swan's down) surface density - 200-300 g/m2. Lining material - based on viscose fibers and threads in color combination or contrast with the main material.
Pattern sample:
* PRINTING ON A4 FORMAT PRINTER:
When printing patterns in A4 format, open Adobe Reader and check the "Actual size" checkbox (or uncheck "Fit to page size") in the print settings.
Note the test square (or grid) on the pattern sheet. Its size is exactly 10 by 10 cm. It is needed in order to understand whether the printing scale is set correctly on your printer. Before printing the entire pattern, print out a sheet with a red square and measure it. 10cm sides? This means you can print the remaining sheets of the pattern. If the sides are more or less than 10 cm, you need to adjust the print scale of your printer. Otherwise, the pattern will not print correctly.
After printing all the pattern pages, glue them together in the order shown: the letters (A/B/C+) indicate the column, and the numbers (01/02/03+) indicate the row. The first (top left) pattern sheet will have the number A01.
*PRINTING ON A PLOTTER:
When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in Adobe Reader (or Foxit Reader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select the Poster print mode under Page Sizing and Handling. Make sure the Segment Scale field is set to 100%. Check the boxes for Cutting Marks, Labels, and Split Large Pages Only.
The following designations are used on the pattern:
.png)
Parts Specification
Main material
Back - 1 piece
Right shelf – 1 piece
Left shelf– 1 piece
Collar – 2 parts
Part of the right hem – 1 piece
Sleeve – 2 parts
Hood – 2 parts
Hood insert – 1 piece
Hood facing – 1 piece
Strap for attaching the hood – 1 piece
Top stand – 1 piece
Lower stand – 1 piece
Back neck facing – 1 piece
Hemming of the bottom line of the back - 1 piece
Facing the bottom line of the shelf - 2 parts
Pocket flap – 4 parts
Burlap (lining) pocket – 4 parts
Lining material
Back – 1 piece (with fold)
Shelf – 1 piece
Sleeve – 2 parts
Hood lining – 2 parts
Hood insert – 1 piece
.png)
Attention! When cutting parts, you need to add seam allowances along all sections of 1.5 cm. The allowance for processing the lower cut of the sleeves depends on whether you will bend the sleeves and form them from the allowance for processing the cuffs. If the lining material strictly matches the color of the main one and along the bottom of the sleeve you decide to sew a finishing line and leave the sleeves without turn-down cuffs, then the processing allowance is 1.5 - 3.5 cm.
Approximate consumption of base material 3.0-4.0 meters (depending on size and height), with a canvas width of 150 cm.
Attention! The figure shows the arrangement of parts on the canvas for size/height – 44/170 cm.
.png)
To make a down jacket you will also need:
- lining material – 2.0 – 2.5 m;
Detachable zipper – 70-85 cm, depending on height;
Insulation - 2.5 - 3.5 m, depending on its width and the size and height of the product;
Buttons – 8 (9) pieces;
The zipper for attaching the hood is 35-45 cm, depending on the size (you need to measure the length of the lower cut of the hood part - 2 parts + insert);
Fur trim for a hood made of natural or faux fur.
Technological sequence of processing
1. Baste all the parts cut from the base material onto the insulation. Apply a pattern quilting stitch to all pieces on the right side of the material.
Attention! In the store you can find special felt-tip pens or crayons that are removed after heat treatment. You can apply a design, and after quilting, remove the lines with a warm iron.
Attention! To simplify the process of quilting the base material with insulation, try gluing it. Yes! I use a simple glue stick. I lightly lubricate the edges of the parts of the main material with glue from the wrong side, lay the insulation on it, press it and leave it for 5 minutes. You can also spot lubricate the material along the quilting lines. Don't overdo it! First try on lunges that will remain from cutting. Believe me, it really is easier this way.
2.Sew the quilting stitch according to the design. Stitch length is 0.4-0.5 cm (Fig. 1).
Attention! Do not tighten the thread, and if possible, use a walking foot.
.png)
Process the pockets on the shelves as shown in Fig. 2 and fig. 3.
Stitch the flap with the lining, turn the flap right side out and stitch the seam allowances of the flap stitching onto the lining;
Place the pockets you made on the shelf (Fig. 2), according to the control marks, and stitch the valve and burlap parts of the pocket to the shelf in sequence;
Stitch the topstitch seam allowances onto the lining;
Sew the burlap pocket pieces
Sew darts on the shelf in the area before and after the entry line into the pocket
Sew the front and back along the shoulder sections. Press seam allowances.
Sew the front and back of the coat along the side edges. Press seam allowances.
Determine the length of the strap by the length of the zipper. Stitch the sides of the zipper placket and iron it in half.
Baste and stitch the strip on the front side of the product along the neckline, strictly in the middle relative to the middle of the back, aligning the cuts;
Stitch one side of the zipper along the stitching edge of the placket
Stitch the front hem line and the back hem line along the sides. It is better to iron the seam allowances
Attention! Ironing operations must be treated very carefully. The process of ironing seams should not lead to flattening of the insulation.
Prepare the collar.
The collar assembly algorithm is classic and practically no different from processing the stand-up collar of a jacket:
Stitch the top post to the bottom along the edge, turn it right side out, sweep the edge and iron it.
Sew the top collar into the neck of the down jacket. Press the seam allowances onto the collar.
Process the fastener.
The design of the clasp is also quite simple. The right shelf is wider than the left by the width of the bar. The bar is designed for attaching buttons. A hem is sewn along the edge of the bar on the inside and one side of the zipper is inserted into this seam. The second side of the zipper is inserted into the stitching seam of the side edge of the left shelf (Fig. 4).
Rice. 4
- stitch one side of the zipper tape to the hem along the inner cut (line 1);
- stitch the bar to the hem (line 2);
- stitch the facing of the back neckline to the hems along the side edges;
- sew the lower stand into the hem and facing of the back neckline;
- grind the edge of the right flange with a hem, while simultaneously grinding the side of the collar;
It's noticeably colder outside, it's time to warm up. In this article, we’ll look at how to sew a women’s down jacket with your own hands. The task is quite difficult, but quite doable. Let's add a few unique elements that will make our product exclusive.
Let's take as a basis the oversized style, which continues to gain popularity among fashionistas. Today we will try to sew quilted down jacket with a collar-hood.
Materials and tools
The outer material for sewing a down jacket can be polyamide, polyester or nylon. All of them consist of synthetic fibers, have increased wear resistance, do not wrinkle, do not allow moisture to pass through and protect from wind. Polyamide is also good because it removes fumes and dries quickly. A distinctive feature of nylon is its lightness and increased water and steam resistance properties.
ATTENTION! If you plan to wear a jacket in conditions of high humidity, it is better to choose a material with water-repellent impregnation.
Classic down jackets use waterfowl down as filler., as it has natural water-repellent properties. Such fluff will never stick together or mat, since human sweat and skin fumes do not settle on it. But it will be very difficult for a novice dressmaker to sew a jacket with such filling, and it’s not cheap, so let’s focus on the actual simple version- padding polyester.
For sewing the lining we choose polyester- synthetic knitted fabric, similar in appearance to wool. It is affordable, easy to care for, antistatic and practically wrinkle-free.
From the accessories we will need magnetic buttons, which we will use as a clasp.
Standard set of tools:
- sewing machine;
- overlock;
- scissors;
- tape measure;
- graph paper;
- pencil;
- needles, pins.
Down jacket pattern
The pattern will be as simple as possible, so we take a minimum of measurements:
- down jacket length;
- back width;
- armhole height;
- the length of the sleeve
IMPORTANT! When taking measurements, it is necessary to immediately include an increase in the freedom of fit. For outerwear it is about 8 cm.
We build a pattern drawing
- We put down the width of the collar 25–30 cm + the desired length of the down jacket. At the level of the collar we draw a horizontal line. From the top left point to the right we set aside a width that is equal to the width of the back * 2 + the width of the wrap (about 20 cm) + 6 cm.
- Mark the central axis. We will place armholes at an equal distance from it, 5 cm wide and 25–30 cm high.
- To construct the sleeve pattern, we build a rectangle. It can be made straight or tapered. We measure the width of the armhole according to the drawing of the main part. We make the sleeve head rounded.
Cutting materials
- We cut out the main part from the outer material and padding polyester.
- Additionally, from the same fabric we cut two parts for the lining and one for the collar.
- We cut out the sleeves directly from the outer fabric, lining and padding polyester.
IMPORTANT! It is necessary to leave 2.5 cm for allowances on each side and 5 cm for processing the bottom.
Stages of sewing a down jacket
- Sections of parts from outer and lining fabrics processed on an overlocker or sewing machine using a zigzag stitch.
- Fold the main rectangle with the additional detail of the gate face to face, baste, and then grind down them on sewing machine. Similarly, we sew two edgings on the sides.
- Let's move on to cutting out the lining for the main part. We cut a rectangle of such a size as to fill the space on the wrong side between the ribs and the collar.
- Carefully put padding polyester inside, matching the corners.
- On the front side, using a soap remnant, we outline the stitch lines along which we will quilt the fabric. To prevent the stitches from moving apart, we fix them with safety pins and lay basting ties using a thin needle. On the collar and collars we sew (quilt) 3 layers of material, outer, padding polyester, outer. In the place where the lining will be, we quilt 2 layers - outer material + padding polyester.
ATTENTION! To prevent the padding polyester from slipping on the fabric, you should initially sew it around the perimeter. Since the fabric turns out to be quite dense, it is more advisable to use a walking or Teflon foot on a sewing machine.
- The same way quilt the sleeves. When applying padding polyester to the sleeves, you need to retreat 5 cm from the bottom edge (cuff). The insulation is not sewn to the bottom seam allowance, because it is intended to be folded inward and connected to the lining.
- We machine sew the shoulder seams. To prevent the down jacket from slipping off your shoulders in the future, we make two parallel seams at a distance of 2 cm from each other and insert a cord into them, which will be tightened around the neck. You can take the lace ready-made, but it is better to sew it from the main fabric.
- We grind side seams sleeves from the outer fabric (which is already quilted with padding polyester) from the wrong side, then we sew down the side seam of the sleeve lining. Place the lining and main sleeve face to face and sew the bottom edges. Turn it inside out and insert the lining inside. Then he turns the cuff inward, bastes, irons and sews decorative seam on the front side at a distance of 2–3 mm from the edge.
- We sew the sleeves into the “body” of the jacket. To do this, we find the centers of the edges and connect them to the shoulder seams. We stick them into the armholes with safety pins and baste them so that a small fit is formed. We make a machine seam, the upper thread should pass along the sleeve part.
- Sew in the main part of the lining. To do this, we place the main part with the padding polyester facing up and connect it to the lining on three sides, except for the hem.
- We turn the down jacket inside out through the bottom edge and pin it, baste it, and then We machine sew the lining to the main material. We make a line about 10 cm short of the middle. On the other side we do the same operations. Turn the jacket inside out. Fold and iron the middle. Using safety pins, we fix the unstitched area and stitch it manually with hidden ties. The lining is sewn.
- Sew on magnetic buttons at an even distance from each other.
- In addition to the buttons, you can add a belt. We cut it directly onto the fabric. The width of the belt part, taking into account the allowances, is 10 cm, the length is 150 cm. For additional rigidity, we glue the back side with non-woven fabric or double-lined fabric. We sew short sections from the inside. Turn it inside out and iron it. We make a hem along the long cut by 0.5 - 0.7 cm and iron it. We baste and lay a decorative stitch along the front side at a distance of 1–2 mm from the edge.
The use of warm and cold seams in down jackets. For several years I worked at an enterprise for sewing down clothes, headed by the author of the book “Tourist Atelier” Brink I.Yu., which describes in detail the technology for making such products.
I don’t claim to be the ultimate truth (we just did it this way) and I won’t touch on the very basics of tailoring clothes with down filling, so I’m omitting the questions of what materials down bags are made of, how many layers are included, how the down is filled, how the compartments are closed, and etc.
Cold seams are the joining of layers of a down bag with a stitch through and through. This technology allows you to create compartments of the desired size and shape, but does not provide the same thickness of insulation (it is minimal near the line and maximum in the middle of the down compartment, A is not equal to B). If you really want a beautiful stitch, then cold seams are quite suitable. 
If the thermal protection of the product is more important, and beauty is a little less important, it is logical to use warm seams. I most often saw warm seams on products with a straight silhouette and quite large volume - these were suits for harsh northern oil workers))
Warm seams are a method of sewing a down bag in which narrow (3-5 cm) strips of braid or fabric are sewn between layers of material across the entire width of the part, the so-called. bulkheads Bulkheads allow you to maintain stability of the thickness of the insulation in the product (A equals B). 
You need to understand that a product with warm seams no longer turns out to be as beautifully “blown” as with cold seams (although a certain convexity of the compartments is preserved). Therefore, most often I saw such seams on internal insulating down bags. In this case, the product itself can have design lines of arbitrary shape; they do not need to be tied to the stitch geometry (or the top layer may not be quilted at all). 
First, individual parts of the product are prepared:
The bulkheads are adjusted to the individual parts of the insulating bag - on the shelves, on the back and sleeves according to the markings, first on one part of the down bag, then on the other. Only after this, partial contour stitching is performed on the part (below I described methods for processing shoulder seams and sewing sleeves into the armhole, in which this contour stitching is not needed), holes are left for filling and the compartments are filled with down.
Near the sections of the parts, the bulkheads are dissected. 
Often, ordinary edging tape is used as bulkheads, which can be 15-32 mm wide. (Using the width of this tape, you can adjust the thickness of the down layer). Sometimes narrow strips of the same material from which the down-containing bag is made are cut out for bulkheads. If the bulkhead does not end at the cut of the part, then the next strip is overlapped with the previous one and the stitching is continued. The braid should be soft enough; keeper and rep tapes will not work, they are hard. 
1. The shoulder seams can be assembled in the usual, cold way, or you can do it differently (it will be warmer): the upper compartments, closest to the shoulder seams, are made smaller in height than the lower ones, about 2 times: 
The shoulder seams are connected separately in layers: 
It turns out to be a single compartment of the down bag in the shoulder area. Under the weight of the bag, the layers on the shoulders are of course flattened a little, but with this method it is then convenient to sew the sleeve into the armhole using a bulkhead.
2. The side seams of the product, the lower seams of the sleeves and the instep seams of the trousers (this is if you suddenly sew trousers with down filling) can also be assembled using the cold method, as well as making them voluminous. Most often, these seams are joined using a cold method, i.e. they simply grind down, flattening the ends of the bulkheads. I’ve been thinking for a couple of days about whether it’s worth making the down bag bulky and non-flattened in the side area? To do this, you first need to connect the side seams of the product, and then stitch the bulkheads onto the frame from one side through the back to the second side. And the sleeves can be confused and assembled with the bulkheads in a ring. Can. But why? We probably don’t need extra volume under the arms, so we connect the side seams of the back and front and the bottom seams of the sleeves in the most usual way, as in any other product.
3. But the sleeve is sewn into the product with a bulkhead so that its upper compartment does not flatten: the bulkhead is stitched along the sleeve edging line, first to one part of the bag, then to the other. Then the sleeve is sewn into the armhole of the product in the same way, in 2 steps. With this method of sewing in sleeves, preliminary contour stitching on the armhole of the front and back is not done; the compartments are filled with down after sewing in the sleeve. 
4. The collar in a down product, as a rule, is a single compartment and it is sewn into the product in the usual way.
Lastly, the compartments of the prepared down bag are filled with down through the previously left holes and these holes are sewn up.
