Sheridan drawings for embossing. Sheridan embossed leather bag

Beautiful Lady's bag with drawing.

The following types of leather were used in the manufacturing process:

1. The front and back side of the bag is a vegetable saddle 3-3.5 mm. The skin is hard and smooth.
2. Handles and sidewalls - Cheprak vegetable tanned 2-2.5mm. The skin is soft.
3. The inside pocket is brownie leather, smoky color.

Materials:

1. Fiebing's Leather Dye MEDIUM BROWN.
2. Acrylic varnish ANGELUS.
3. Liquid acrylic paste Antique leather stain color sadl tan.
4. Bone oil.
5. Tragacanth.
6. Zipper YKK length 650 mm.
7. Magnetic button.
8. Thread waxed brown ‘Daphne’ 1 mm.
9. Thread waxed brown 0.8 mm.
10. Skin glue.
11. Nylon cord d - 10 mm.
12. D-rings - 4 pcs.

Let's get started.

• We make a pattern on paper and adjust the pattern to fit. The drawing was taken in the style of "Sheridan" (Sheridan). In this case, I first printed, glued and finalized the drawing, and made a pattern on it. Dimensions of the front and rear walls: height - 280mm, width - 370mm. The side of the bag consists of two parts. The pattern was made on one paper. Width - 120mm, length of the upper part with a zipper - 580mm, length of the lower part - 700mm.

• I drew the outline of the drawing for the lower part separately.

• Pens.

• Pocket.

• I cut out the front and back parts, adding 1 cm on all sides. I soak the skin for 10 minutes until air bubbles come out and plastic bag in the refrigerator overnight. In the morning I take it out and wait until it reaches the condition (it should be a little darker, dry and cold to the touch). I fix the pattern with the pattern with adhesive tape. Adhesive tape should not get on the project, traces may remain. I translate the picture with a pencil, you don’t need to press hard. Periodically I turn the picture away and check all the lines, because the project is big it's easy to miss something. A cling film can be laid between the skin and the sheet with the picture so that the paper does not get damp and tear when pressed with a pencil. The pressing force of the pencil (stylus) should be the same as in normal writing with a pen.

• I start embossing. I cut all the lines with a rotary knife. The knife must be sharp. We hold the knife vertically, without tilting to the sides. If the project is large, you can wrap the non-working side in polyethylene again so that the skin does not dry out.

• The stamps were needed standard set and homemade.

• At the beginning, all lines on one side must be passed with a #B197 (“beveler”) stamp, create volume for the drawing, highlighting the foreground and lower the skin in the background. On small parts I used homemade #1. We put the nose of the stamp in the cut and beat with a hammer, moving the stamp, repeat the blow. It is necessary to move the stamp strictly along the cut.

• Visually, I divide the drawing into sectors and emboss all the details in one sector, then move on to another. This is in order not to come back and not wet the skin again. Moving on to the flowers, I take the #P206 stamp and pass it over the petals, and with the homemade #4 I lift the skin on the petals.

• In the same way I do on the leaves, only indentations with stamp #2. The middle parts on the flowers can be made with ready-made stamps, but I don’t have them yet, so I depicted them so different. I make veins on the leaves with the #V407 stamp, tilting one edge towards the middle. I go through the veins on the stems with stamps #C431 and #U710, the joints on the stems are stamped #3. At the end, I fill the background with a #A104 stamp. I tried to capture all the moments in the photo. I repeat, I do all these actions on one site, then I move on. If the skin dries out, I moisten it with a kitchen sponge, only the working area. When moisture is absorbed, you can continue embossing.

• The front part took me 16 hours. Set aside to dry on a flat surface.

• I take out the second part from the refrigerator, bring it to the condition and also translate the picture, but taking 3 flowers and changing the leaves along the edge along the way. The rest was stamped with a 'basket' stamp #X502-2. I marked a vertical line with a stylus in the middle of the project, it should be barely visible. We put a stamp, as shown in the photo.

• I go one way, then the other.

• At the edges, I deviate the stamp a little to the center, so that closer to the edge the print disappears. I complete the basket along the edge with a #C431 stamp, and a #A104 stamp on the border with a pattern. The back part took 10 hours.

• I cut out the side pieces. Completely did not soak the skin, moisturized with a sponge. The part must also be moistened in those places where there will be no embossing, otherwise stains may remain.

• I translate the borders of the edging of the picture, I perform embossing with a 'basket' stamp.

• I scrape the corners on the parts with a zipper at the junction of the side parts. I apologize for the photo, the tool for thinning the skin will be more clearly visible below.

• Leaving a place for the seam, I retreat 7 mm from the edge and, using a meter ruler and a bone trowel, bend the edges 90 degrees (the skin is still wet).

• After drying, I cut out a slit for the zipper (the width of the slit depends on the width of the slider plus 1 mm). Proboynikov large sizes no, therefore I cut the roundings at the ends with a knife with a narrow blade.

• I cut out the details of the handle and fastening to them. I cut out a total length of 550 mm, and after painting, I cut the ends according to the pattern. The length of the handles to the folds is 470 mm, plus 38 mm for the bend at the ends. The width of the handle is 46 mm, and at the place of the bend - 30 mm, because D-ring width 30 mm. The width of 46 mm was taken from the calculation of the thickness of the cord that will be sewn inward. The thickness of the nylon cord is 10 mm, the cord is dense and does not stretch. Detail for attaching the handle: width 30 mm (D-ring 30 mm), length 80 mm, roundings made according to the drawing so that they fit into the places chosen for them.
• I'll stick with the handles. We paint the details of the handles. Painted with Fiebing's Leather Dye in MEDIUM BROWN. I cover all the details of the bag with this paint twice, with drying in 2 hours. After painting according to the pattern, I cut out the ends of the handles.

• I moistened the fold points for the D-rings, inserted the ring, bent it carefully (the skin should be wet, otherwise cracks may appear on the skin) and marked the places of the first stitch on both sides with an awl. Then I take a groove cutter, I install 3.5 mm from the edge on it and make grooves for the seam. On parts of the fold from mark to sharp edge and all over the handle from mark to mark. There will be no seam on the fold.

• I paint the groove, the inside of the handles in the places of inflection and work out the butt in this place.

• With a punch with a step of 4mm, I punch holes for the seam along the groove. The holes on both sides should be opposite each other so that when stitching the skin is not pulled with a screw, use a ruler with an angle of 90 degrees for control. I punch holes on glossy magazines so as not to dull the tool.

• On the parts of the bend, I make the first hole at the sharp end. I moisten the entire handle, insert the cord inside and gently crimp the skin around the cord. Now we count the number of holes on the part that will be bent in one direction. The first is a hole in the middle at the sharp end and we count to the bend, I got 5 of them. I count five holes after the bend and insert a needle and thread into the fifth, compressing the skin around the cord, and insert the needle into the opposite hole. In the first stitch I do double loop and then I continue to sew with a saddle stitch.

• Waxed thread firm ‘Daphne’ 1 mm brown. I measure 3 - 3.5 seam lengths, insert the ends of the thread into the needles. The needles must be blunt so that they do not pierce the oncoming thread. Insert the thread into the needle and stepping back about five centimeters from the end of the thread, pierce it with a needle, insert and tighten the thread.

• In order for the seam to be even, it is necessary to sew uniformly throughout. I always start the first thread from the front side, and then from the wrong side. In this case, we have both sides of the front, which means from left to right, the second thread goes on top of the first. The photo will be below. It is necessary to ensure that the counter needle does not pierce the thread. When we start the first needle, we do not tighten the thread to the end, leave the loop and, putting the second needle, pull the thread back behind the loop, making sure that the thread is not pierced and walks freely. I do not throw a loop, that is, I do not make a knot. Thus, we sew the entire handle. I reach the 5th hole from the bend, return the thread 3 stitches back and bring both threads to the end between the skin. I cut the thread flush with the skin, push the layers of the skin a little apart and melt the thread, and quickly connect the skin with tapping with a hammer. I cut off the excess ends of the cord so that it does not rest against the D-ring and melt the ends with a lighter.

• On the painted parts of the handles, I make a groove for the seam and with a punch I punch a 4 mm hole in the middle under the belt screw (for clarity, I did it after painting, you can do it before). I paint a groove. I moisten the fastening parts of the bag, put on the D-ring and carefully bend them, folding them in half. It can be clamped in a saddle vice during drying. On the fastening details, I process the ends in the places of inflection and paint the inside.

• I chamfer with a bevel, paint the end with the same paint, let it dry a little, apply tragacanth and rub it with a board. I also process the ends on the handles after the firmware. I glue the fastening parts by putting on the D-rings. For gluing parts I use Universal Glue 88 Luxe. I press it with stationery clothespins, laying scraps of the same skin between the clothespins and the skin. I let it dry until the next day (10-12 hours), I clean the end with a dremel with a sandpaper nozzle and then process it in the above way.

• I connect the parts of the handles. I moisten the place of the firmware. I put on the D-ring already with the part on the handle and stitch it, the number of holes we have should match. In this case, I brought the thread to the inside of the handle, cut it off, leaving 2 mm each, and soldered it. I process the ends with a dremel, etc.

• I impregnate the handles with bone oil, lubricate abundantly. I let it soak for a day. For the finish, I chose ANGELUS acrylic varnish. I cover in two layers, between layers for a day to dry. The area is small, applied with a brush. I hang it on a wire in the screw holes. On the details, the place of attachment (gluing) was not varnished.
• We return to the front and back walls of the bag. We apply a pattern and roughly mark the top and sides of the bag. I apply the marks with a special rod for leather, it can be easily removed with a wet cloth. So that the picture does not turn out to be skewed on the bag, we measure the same distance from the top points of the picture to the top of the bag and cut off the edge. Now we measure the bottom from the top (the height of the bag is 280 mm), the distance from the bottom points to the bottom edge should also be the same, unless, of course, the pattern was even. Cut off the bottom. Now we measure the side edges, given the same distance from the picture, cut off. On the corners I use cups, coins, etc. etc. In this case, I have a coffee cup d - 70 mm. I cut off the corners by the cup, you can slightly modify it with a dremel. You should get two identical parts.

• Let's start painting. The paint is the same Fiebing's Leather Dye color MEDIUM BROWN. Kolinsky brush #4 paint the background on the picture. It is not necessary to draw a lot of paint, I dip the tip 4-6 mm into the paint. You need to start painting from the center of the background, moving towards the flowers and stems. We watch how the paint is absorbed into the skin, paint slowly and carefully. I paint borders with pictures too kolinsky brush and the rest with a wool swab. The basket and flowers remain unpainted.

• It took 14 hours to paint, the background on the flowers was painted once, the rest twice. I install a groove cutter from the edge of 4mm and make a groove on the front and back walls of the bag, and on the upper side part for flashing the zipper (for clarity, I made it after painting). I paint a groove.

• I process the butt on the cutout under the zipper.

• After drying, I impregnate all parts with bone oil on both sides. I let it soak for days.

• Then I cover all the details acrylic varnish ANGELUS. Days to dry. In order to highlight the embossing, all the details must be painted with liquid acrylic paste Antique leather stain color sadl tan. The drawings should be covered with plenty of paste, I apply it with a sponge and rub it with a toothbrush into all the recesses, and immediately wipe it off with a dry paper towel. It is necessary to paint with gloves and stock up on napkins. The time interval for painting on all parts must match so that the shade is the same. But initially the skin on the side parts was lighter, I had to apply the stain again. Days to dry. Unfortunately, there is no photo of staining, because he worked alone, his hands were dirty, but he had to work quickly.

• After drying, I cover all the details with ANGELUS acrylic varnish. On large projects, I apply the finish with a kitchen sponge. Soak in water, squeeze. It is necessary to dial the finish line so that one pass is enough for one strip of the project. It is necessary to cover the stain in one pass, the varnish dissolves it and can be smeared with a sponge. After each pass, I rinse the sponge, the tap is constantly open. Everything must be done quickly and not crawl in one place several times. Days to dry. After drying, I cover all the details again with ANGELUS acrylic varnish. It turns out the third layer of finish. We dry for a day, maybe more. I also cover Bakhtarma with a finish. For this I use TAN-KOTE from Fiebing`s. I do not cover glued areas.

• Attaching handles. On the fasteners I punch holes for the seam. I put the handles in the designated places on the bag, given the same distance from the top and sides, and mark the hole for the belt screw. I clean the varnish in places of gluing. I glue the parts, insert the screws into the holes and tighten them to fix them. Literally right away, along the guide holes, I pierce the main part (a punch with one tooth). I'm stitching. Direction indicated in the photo. I bring the thread to the inside, cut and solder.

• We sew a zipper. I missed the photo with glue spreading, but I think there is nothing complicated there. We tried on the zipper, smeared it with glue, waited for the time indicated in the instructions and carefully apply the skin. Pressed, ironed gently so as not to damage the varnish. With a punch with a step of 4 mm I punch holes for the seam. I glued the ends of the zipper with lining pigskin to hide the cut ends. During the firmware, the thread does not need to be tightened strongly, otherwise there will be waves.

• I mark with a pen the center at the ends on the side parts, as well as from below and above on the main ones. Before gluing, I apply the side parts and bend them around the corners of the bag. You need to moisten the ends a little.

• You must always glue from the center to the sides, otherwise the bag will turn out oblique. I glue the part with the zipper to the front part according to the marks. Wrapping the butt with cling film, I press it with stationery clothespins. Under the clothespins I put scraps of RD leather so that no traces remain.

• I try on the lower part and at the joints I measure the distance from the picture to the future edge, taking into account the seam, it turned out 8 mm from the 'basket'.

• I mark the edges with a marker (press only from the side of the cut) and cut off the excess. I scour the corners at the junctions. I processed the end with a dremel with sandpaper, made a groove from the edge of 4 mm with a groove cutter, painted the groove, cut the chamfer at the end, painted it, rubbed it with tragacanth and punched holes for the seam to the fold with a 4 mm punch (punched from the center to the sides).

• I glue the bottom part on the marks. Side parts do not need to be glued together! I clamp everything with clothespins and leave to dry for a day.

20.01.2016 19:12:03

Ufa craftsman Alexander Fedotov makes exclusive leather goods. Moreover, his works are in demand not only in Russia, but also abroad. The master performs embossing on the skin in the Sheridan style. This style is very popular all over the world. Its distinguishing feature is that in the drawings there is a large number of small details, ornaments, carvings in the form of stems, leaves and flowers.

We met with the Ufa craftsman and learned many details about his unusual hobby.

- Alexander, tell us how it all began?

Once, about three years ago, I received a salary in cash and realized that I had nowhere to put money - there was no wallet. And then I decided to make myself a purse. Actually, I'm a furrier by trade. In Soviet times, I sewed fur coats, sheepskin coats. So I have experience with leather. I got on the Internet, looked at various wallets self made. I liked the work of the Moscow master Roman. I contacted him, and he told me that he makes leather goods in the Sheridan style. I also decided to make myself a purse in this style.

Acquired some tools and a piece of leather. However, the skin turned out to be orthopedic; it was impossible to make anything out of it. Later I found out that only vegetable tanned leather is suitable for embossing. So I made my first wallet, which I still use today. Then the son asked me to make a belt for his friend for his birthday. Then I made myself a coin box, eyeglass case, and the work began. For three years there was not a single day that I did not work with the skin.

What are the benefits of vegetable tanned leather?

There are three types of leather: chrome tanned, vegetable and mixed. Chrome-tanned and mixed-tanned leather is treated with chemicals. For vegetable tanning, only natural substances are used, collagens are preserved in the skin. If you take chrome-tanned leather when embossing, it will not take the shape that you want to give it. Vegetable tanned leather compresses where you strike and the pattern is retained, it is voluminous.

- Where do you buy leather?

In Russia, vegetable tanned leather is extremely difficult to find, in fact, it simply does not exist. Japanese leather is considered the best, American leather is also valued. Turkish leather is very bad, Afghan too. I prefer Italian leather, I order it in a Moscow online store, which is supplied from Italy. I take whole skins at once.

- Where do you find patterns for your products?

In one store I found a book by Don King, the founder of the Sheridan style, in which there are sketches of leather goods. From there I got some ideas.

- Where do you draw inspiration from? How do you come up with drawings?

When I walk around the city, I always look around. In the center of Ufa there are many old houses with interesting carvings, unusual curlicues, I take something from there. I leaf through books with national ornaments, patterns, I take a little from there. I find on the Internet beautiful pictures. I follow fashion, I watch fashion shows. I do not turn on the TV at all, it is distracting. In the process of work, I quietly turn on music, mostly retro 80s, both Soviet and foreign: Deep Purple, Slade and others. This is the music of my youth. When I have to do painstaking monotonous work, the piano music of Richard Clayderman helps me to concentrate.

- Who orders your products?

Mostly, of course, women. They order for themselves or for their men. Orders from men are less frequent. I always listen to my clients, find out exactly what they want. If the client clearly knows what he needs, the design work comes to naught. But basically, clients say that they need a product of a certain size, and they ask me to choose a pattern at my discretion. This is where creativity begins.

It takes seven hours to create a sketch. I get up every day at 5.30 am and work until midnight. When the sketch is ready, I cut out a piece of leather and soak it. It should be in water for about 12 hours. Then I take it out and start drying it at room temperature. Five or six hours. The main thing here is not to miss the moment when the skin becomes most supple. First, a contour is applied to the skin, then a pattern is knocked out. This takes approximately 16 hours. Then the product must be dried to the end, painted, processed edges. In general, the production of one small product takes three days. The bag can be made in two weeks.

- How do you find clients?

I don't even know the answer to this question myself. They find me. By using social networks through friends, colleagues, relatives. Works "word of mouth". Even in the store, when I pay, sellers and other buyers pay attention to my wallet, bag, and ask where I got them. Once, walking around the city, I went to a store where everything for billiards is sold. I saw tubes for cues there, nondescript, made of leatherette. The seller told me that they had leather tubes, but they were quickly snapped up. We got to talking and he asked if I could make a leather tube. Thus, a new customer appeared.

I have a lot of orders now. As soon as I finish work on one product, I start another. There are always three or four orders ahead. In addition, I have many interesting ideas that I would like to implement. Where can I get more time? .. I really regret that I did not start embossing on leather earlier, at least ten years ago. So now I would already have my own workshop.

- Do you want to make something unusual out of leather?

I have an idea to make myself a fur hat with earflaps, and emboss in place of the leather insert. The thing should turn out to be chic, exclusive. You can also make beautiful, unusual shoes. I have a friend who is a very good shoemaker. But he is a drinker. I used to drink too, but thanks to my passion I quit. The choice arose: either do your favorite work, or drink vodka. The skin has overpowered. But I have a strong hand and a sharp eye. This is important, because the work on the skin is the thinnest.

I want to make furniture - make exclusive wooden chairs with leather inserts. I want to make a leather watch, a floor lamp - yes, a lot of things. But my hands do not reach: either a purse, or a belt, or a eyeglass case, or a bag ...

As soon as I post photos online finished product and new orders are coming in. I even wanted to leave my main job, I work as an OTK controller. Although now it is even difficult to say where my main job is.

Would you like to take students?

Three or four people crowd into my apprenticeship. And I have a lot of teaching experience. But I don't have time to study. I can help with advice. On the Internet, masters from other cities often turn to me with questions, I always try to answer them in detail. And so, to teach someone on an ongoing basis, I do not have the opportunity.

In addition, I always warn those who are going to do leather stamping that this is a very costly business. There are countless tools required. I still have not acquired everything that is needed in the work. I constantly buy. One stamp, the size of a pencil, costs about 750 rubles. And you use it a couple of times a month. But at the same time it is necessary. And there are a lot of such tools. Add to this paint (I currently have 60 bottles in work, one hundred-gram bottle costs 850 rubles, and it is enough for three or four purses), skin (one skin costs 15 thousand) and others necessary materials. All profits fly away instantly. For a whole year I sat on Chinese noodles ... Therefore, many who start embossing on leather give up this business at the very beginning of the journey. In Bashkiria, I'm probably the only one like that. And there are not so many masters in Russia, you can count them all.

- Did you have to send orders to other cities?

I constantly send to Karelia, Krasnodar region, Irkutsk, Leningrad, Omsk, Samara, Sverdlovsk regions, and practically throughout Russia. AT new year holidays sent the belt to Kamchatka. Now I have prepared a parcel, a large order, to Ukraine - to Zhmerinka, this is approximately near Odessa.

Even from Israel the order came. Of course, I was very surprised. I write: "You have everything there." And the client replies: “Everything is there, but no one makes such products!”

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Sheridan style embossed belts I make from genuine leather vegetable tanned 4.5mm thick. There are many different embossing patterns, but to the uninitiated they all look the same. If you want to choose a specific template, it is possible, I will send you a photo of the drawings I have. But, as a rule, customers choose according to the size of the picture - larger or smaller.

It is also possible to choose the color of the future belt. I cover the belt on both sides with a protective acrylic composition, which prevents moisture from affecting it. But do not think that the belt becomes water-repellent. Prolonged contact with water, especially sea water, can have a negative effect.

I make the belt so long that after fastening the tip sticks out no more than 10 centimeters. This is enough)) But if you are used to wrapping your belt around a couple of times, you can arrange this))

For the manufacture of the belt, I require the following data from the customer:

There are two types of belts available:

• double stitched. This belt is made of two strips of 2.5mm vegetable tanned leather. I sew by hand with a woven waxed thread 1 mm thick. I sew with a saddle stitch. Such a seam is much stronger than a machine seam.
• single layer. This belt is made from a single strip of vegetable tanned leather with a thickness of 4.5mm.

Two-layer belt - 13.000 rubles

Single-layer belt - 10.000 rubles

To place an order, write to e-mail [email protected]

For work, I take an advance payment of 100%. Send money to a Sberbank card. Products are sent by Russian post in a box first class.