Size 56
A down jacket made of shiny raincoat with a hood trimmed with fox fur, suitable for women of all ages.
To complete the model, you will need: 1.6 m of a raincoat fabric of a practical color, 1.5 m wide, 1.3 m of a lining fabric 1.5 m wide, 1.3 m of padding polyester, under-shoulders, a zipper, a strip of natural , fur for the trim of the hood:
Cut out the patterns of the down jacket
Shelf - 2 parts
Back. 2 details
Hood - 2 pieces
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Leaflet for welt pocket - 4 details
Cut out all the details from the main, lining fabric and padding polyester (Figure 8, b), while making allowances for seams of 1.5 cm.
In addition to the listed details, it is necessary to cut out 2 burlap pockets of 18 x 20 cm from the main and lining fabric.
Work description
Make welt pockets with a leaf on both shelves of the jacket. Cut the leaves cleanly and stitch from the front side to the edge. Attach the front side of the leaflet to the front side of the shelf and stitch along the markings. Pin the burlap of the pocket from the main fabric to the cut line opposite the leaf and stitch it, leaving 0.5 cm on each side of the seam. Make a cut, cut obliquely to the ends of the stitches, trying not to touch the details of the pocket. Turn the mesh bag to the wrong side, iron the leaflet on the cut. Attach the burlap of the pocket made of lining fabric to the seam allowances for stitching the leaflet. Unscrew the triangles at the corners of the notch on the wrong side and stitch on the burlap pockets, which are then trimmed and sewn together. Sew the narrow sides of the leaf to the shelves using secret stitches.
Fasten padding polyester details on the details from the Main fabric, lay the stitches from the front side in the form of stripes at the same distance.
Connect the shelves and the back with a basting seam, sew the side and shoulder seams.
Sew the cuts of the sleeves from the wrong side and turn them out to the right side.
Sew in the sleeves, slightly seating them along the edges. Attach shoulder pads to the shoulder seams.
Carefully grind the details of the hood together, having previously completed the darts. Sew the hood details from the lining and stitch the lining to the under-fold of the hood from the wrong side. Turn the hood-shon out to the right side and sew into the neck of the jacket.
Sew together the seams of the lining fabric parts, stitch the lining shelves to the inner edges of the backing fabric.
Stitch, shoulderschwzh lining and seams on the sleeves, which are then sewn into the armholes of the lining.
Fold in the sleeves of the jacket and gently join them with the lining fabric.
Sew in a zipper between the main fabric-new lining.
Down jacket pattern - cut details; 1 - shelf; 2 - back; 3 - hood; 4 - sleeve; 5 - a leaf for a welt pocket. (The pattern is 10.1 times larger.)
It's noticeably colder outside, it's time to warm up. In this article, we will look at how to sew a women's down jacket with our own hands. The task is quite difficult, but quite doable. Let's add some unique elements that will make our product exclusive.
We will take as a basis the oversized style, which continues to gain popularity among fashionistas. Today we will try to sew quilted down jacket with hood collar.
Materials and tools
The outer material for sewing a down jacket can be polyamide, polyester or nylon. All of them are made of synthetic fibers, have increased wear resistance, do not wrinkle, do not allow moisture to pass through and protect from wind. Polyamide is also good because it removes fumes and dries quickly. A distinctive feature of nylon is its lightness, increased water and vapor resistant properties.
ATTENTION! If you intend to wear a jacket in high humidity conditions, then it is better to choose a material with a water-repellent impregnation.
In classic down jackets, waterfowl down is used as a filleras it has natural water-repellent properties. Such fluff never sticks together and does not fall off, since sweat and human skin fumes do not settle on it. But it will be very difficult for a beginner dressmaker to sew a jacket with such a filler, and it is not cheap, so we will focus on simple version - synthetic winterizer.
For sewing the lining, choose polyester - synthetic knitted fabric that looks like wool. It is affordable, easy to clean, anti-static and virtually wrinkle-free.
From the accessories, we need magnetic buttons, which we will use as a fastener.
Standard set of tools:
- sewing machine;
- overlock;
- scissors;
- tape measure;
- graph paper;
- pencil;
- needles, pins.
Down jacket pattern
The pattern will be as simple as possible, so we make a minimum of measurements:
- down jacket length;
- back width;
- armhole height;
- the length of the sleeve
IMPORTANT! Taking measurements, it is necessary to immediately put in them an increase in the freedom of fitting. For outerwear it is about 8 cm.
We build a drawing of a pattern
- Lay down the collar width 25-30 cm + the desired length of the down jacket. Draw a horizontal line at the collar. From the upper left point to the right, set aside the width, which is equal to the width of the back * 2 + the width of the smell (about 20 cm) + 6 cm.
- We mark the central axis. From it, at an equal distance, set aside the armholes, 5 cm wide, 25-30 cm high.
- To construct a sleeve pattern, we build a rectangle. It can be made straight or narrowed. We measure the width of the armhole according to the drawing of the main part. We make the head of the sleeve rounded.
Cutting materials
- We cut out the main part from the external material and padding polyester.
- Additionally, from the same fabric, we cut two details of the hem and one collar.
- We cut out the sleeves immediately from the outer fabric, lining and synthetic winterizer.
IMPORTANT! Leave 2.5 cm for allowances on each side and 5 cm for processing the bottom.
Stages of sewing a down jacket
- Parts cuts from outer and lining fabric we process on an overlock or on a sewing machine using a zigzag stitch.
- Fold the main rectangle face to face with the additional collar detail, we take, and then grind them on a sewing machine. In the same way, we sew two hemlines on the sides.
- We proceed to cutting out the lining for the main part... Cut a rectangle of such a size to fill the space on the seamy side between the hem and the collar.
- Carefully we put inside a synthetic winterizercombining the corners.
- On the front side, using a remnant, we outline the lines of the lines along which we will be quilting the canvas... To prevent the lines from separating, we fix them with safety pins and lay basting ties using a thin needle. On the collar and collars we sew (quilt) 3 layers of material, outer, synthetic winterizer, outer. In the place where the lining will be, we quilt 2 layers - outer material + synthetic winterizer.
ATTENTION! To prevent the synthetic winterizer from slipping on the fabric, you should initially sew it around the perimeter. Since the fabric is quite dense, it is advisable to use the walking or Teflon foot of the sewing machine.
- The same way we sew sleeves... When applying a synthetic winterizer on the sleeves, you must step back 5 cm from the bottom edge (cuff). The insulation is not sewn to the lower allowance, because it is intended for hemming in and connecting with the lining.
- We lay the shoulder seams on a typewriter. So that in the future the down jacket does not slide off the shoulders, we make two parallel seams at a distance of 2 cm between ourselves and insert a lace into them, which will be pulled around the neck. The lace can be taken ready-made, but it is better to sew it from the main fabric.
- Sewing the side seams of the sleeve from the outer fabric (which is already quilted with padding polyester) from the seamy side, then we grind the side seam of the sleeve lining. Fold the lining and main sleeve face to face, sew the lower sections. We turn it out and insert the lining inside. Then he turns the cuff inward, baste it, iron it and put a decorative seam on the front side at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge.
- Sew the sleeves into the "body" of the jacket. To do this, we find the centers of the ridge and connect them with the shoulder seams. We stick them into the armholes with safety pins and apply them in such a way that a slight fit is formed. We make a machine seam, the upper thread should go along the sleeve part.
- We sew in the main part of the lining. To do this, we put the main part with a padding polyester up and connect it with the lining on three sides, except for the hem.
- Turn out the down jacket through the bottom edge and pin it, apply it, and then we sew a lining to the main material on a typewriter. We do the line before reaching the middle of about 10 cm. On the other hand, we do the same operations. We turn out the jacket. We fold in and iron the middle. Using safety pins, we fix the unstitched section and sew it manually with secret ties. The lining is sewn.
- Sewing on magnetic buttons at an even distance from each other.
- In addition to buttons, you can add a belt. We cut it directly on the fabric. The width of the belt detail, taking into account the allowances, is 10 cm, the length is 150 cm. For additional rigidity, we glue it with interlining or doublerin on the wrong side. We sew short cuts from the inside. We turn it out, iron it. We make a hem along a long cut by 0.5 - 0.7 cm, iron it. We outline and lay a decorative stitch on the front side at a distance of 1–2 mm from the edge.
A down jacket is a rather versatile and functional element of outerwear that is able to protect you even from the most severe frosts. Sometimes, unfortunately, for some reason, the products offered on the market or in stores are simply not suitable. But do not give up right away. We will tell you how to sew a down jacket with your own hands. As a result, you will receive a high-quality sewn and designer product that will suit you, taking into account the characteristics of your figure, and the costs will be several times less.
How to sew a down jacket with your own hands? Master Class
To sew this type of outerwear, you will need the following tools and materials:
- 1.5-2 meters of main fabric for exterior decoration;
- 1.5 meters of lining fabric;
- 500-600 grams of down;
Important! You can use natural fluff for the filler, as well as its various synthetic counterparts, such as isosoft or thinsulate.
- 3 meters of fabric for the inside;
- Detachable zipper 80-85 cm long;
- Narrow and flexible braid;
- Tailor's needles;
- Tailor's marker or remnant;
- Tape measure;
- Threads in color;
- Needles;
- Scissors;
- Sewing machine.
Important! Pay attention to the fact that for external finishing the fabric must be water-repellent with a special impregnation.
As soon as everything is prepared, you can safely start the process of making a down jacket with your own hands. The procedure is as follows:
- First, build a full-size pattern for your future product. For these purposes, you can use absolutely any model you like.
Important! The mold should be one size larger. This is due to the fact that the finished product is compacted due to the down lining.
- Cut out the blank elements for the outer and inner parts.
Important! Remember to leave 1.5-2 centimeters of fabric for seams.
- Sew side and shoulder seams on the inside of the garment. After - fold them with the right sides and grind the necklines and fasteners.
- Fill the finished piece with fluff and quilt with 6x6 cm squares.
- Fold the sleeves with the right sides and sew them, while leaving a cut along the armhole.
- Stuff the sleeves with fluff and quilt in the same way as for the main blank.
- Stitch the elbow cuts of the sleeves, then sew them into the armholes.
- Connect all the details of the hood, sew it into the upper part of the down jacket.
Important! For the hood, instead of lining, you can use a regular synthetic winterizer.
- Sew all cuffs together. To do this, cut a rectangle equal to the width of the cuff x2 and a length equal to the girth of the wrist + 3 centimeters from the main fabric. Fold them in half and sew the side seams.
- Fold the finished part with the wrong side inward and lay parallel lines, while leaving an unsewn space equal to 1 centimeter on each line.
- Pull the tape through the unstitched hole with pins.
- Insert the inner and lining into the blank for the upper part.
- Align all the cuts, fix them with tailor's pins.
- Sew all three layers of the future product along the side and shoulder seams.
- At the neck of the lining, bend the cut to the wrong side. Stitch it to the stitching seam on the hood.
- Sew the finished cuffs to the bottom of the sleeves.
- Fold the lower hem to the wrong side, sew it.
How to update a down jacket with your own hands?
If you have an old down jacket lying around in your closet, do not rush to throw it away immediately. Having basic skills in cutting and sewing, you can create a unique designer item from an old element of outerwear. In order to sew such a down jacket with your own hands, you will need the following materials and tools:
- Old down jacket;
- 60 centimeters of padding polyester;
- Water-repellent fabric 2.5 meters;
- Lining fabric 1.7 meters;
- Detachable lock 70 and 40 centimeters long;
- Sewing machine;
- Scissors;
- Needles;
- Threads in color;
- Tailor's pins;
- Tailor's marker or remnant.
Important! Please note that specified parameters fabrics are designed for size 46-48. If your parameters are different, then the amount of fabric must be purchased based on them.
As soon as the necessary equipment has been prepared, you can start directly to work. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Pull the filler out of the old down jacket, and then cut it into pattern parts.
- Applying old pieces to the main fabric, cut out new pieces. Thus, you should get:
- 2 shelves;
- Back;
- 2 sleeves;
- Collar;
- 2 details of the middle of the hood;
- 4 side hoods.
- From a padding polyester, cut out 2 side and 1 central part of the hood, as well as 1 part of the collar.
- Cut out pockets and 2 burlap pockets from the main fabric.
- Cut out all the main parts from the lining.
Important! All parts that are cut from the lining fabric should be 1 centimeter shorter than the same, only from the main one.
- Attach the upper parts from the main fabric with the same from the insulation, stitch them.
Important! On the right shelf, the insulation should be sharpened by hand.
- From the seamy side to the bar, pin a piece of padding polyester so that it fits onto the old insulation.
- Sew a synthetic winterizer to the insulation along the edges of the plank.
- Create seams with sewing machine from the neck to the bottom of the shelf.
- Put the zipper with the outside on the top shelf from the neck to the cut, directing it down. Sew on the zipper.
- Fold the right shelf with the left front side inward so that the middle of the front part remains free.
- Unscrew the zipper on the left shelf to the cut, and pin the right side to the cut of the right shelf.
- Stitch the shoulder seams and iron the allowances.
- Stitch the side seams from the armhole to the top edge of the pocket entrance. Iron them.
- Attach the burlap of the pocket from the main fabric to the back, turn it forward, align. Stitch like this to the back.
- Sew the liner shelves to the backs, iron the seams.
- Sew side and shoulder seams and allowances.
- Attach a duck loop loop to the center of the backrest.
- Fold the top of the padded down jacket facing inward, stitching the sides.
- Pin the collar with padding polyester, stitch along the edge.
- Place a zipper from the hood on the cut and, aligning the middle of the collar, stitch.
- Turn the free ends of the zipper tape towards the cut.
- Fold the collar in half lengthwise with the right side inward and sew the sides. Turn out and straighten the corners.
- Sweep the collar with the collar of the down jacket, as well as the upper part of the back and lining. Sew them with a sewing machine.
- Stitch the seams on the sleeves, placing them on the sides.
- Turn the sleeves inside out and sew them into the lining.
- Line up the shoulder seams of the top and lining while aligning with the sleeves.
- Turn the hem of the bottom of the down jacket to the wrong side, sweep one centimeter from the fold, not reaching the middle of the front.
- Fasten the hem of the bottom in several places.
- Turn the down jacket out through the gap in the lining to the front side.
- Sew the bar, sew buttons in several places.
- Stitch the sides of the hood to the middle detail.
- Unfasten a half of the lock from the collar and put it with the outside on the bottom of the hood, align the middle, stitch.
- Sweep the outer sides of the hood together, and machine stitch 2 cm from the fold.
- Sew the bottom of the hood, fasten it to the down jacket.
- Remove all threads from the basting seams.
Your new down jacket is ready!
Description of appearance:
Women's down-padded coat insulated with a central side fastener with a "zipper" tape and six buttons. Coat of "cocoon" silhouette, with a curly bottom line, below the knee line. A shelf with a dart-undercut from the side seam, in which a pocket with a finishing flap is processed. The back is one-piece. Single-suture set-in sleeve. Stand-up collar, fastens with buttons. Down jacket with a detachable hood that fastens with a zip. The hood can be decorated with fur trim.
Difficulty level: not difficult, but it takes time and patience
Technical drawing of the model:
Constructive additions to this model: to chest circumference 20 cm, to waist circumference 32 cm; to hip circumference 15-18 cm.
Material recommendations:the main material - from the group of raincoat fabrics, one-color; insulation - (artificial (sintepon) or mixed layer with natural additives (cotton, sheep or camel's wool) or their substitutes (bamboo, swan down) surface density - 200-300 g / m2. Lining material - based on viscose fibers and threads in color combination or contrast with the base material.
Sample pattern:
* PRINT ON A4 FORMAT PRINTER:
When printing a pattern in A4 format, open Adobe Reader and check the "Actual size" checkbox (or uncheck the "Fit to page" checkbox) in the print settings.
Note the test square (or grid) on the pattern sheet. Its size is exactly 10 by 10 cm. It is needed in order to understand whether the scale is set correctly on your printer when printing. Before you print the entire pattern, print out the sheet with the red square and measure it. 10 cm sides? this means that you can print the rest of the pattern sheets. If the sides are more or less than 10 cm, you need to adjust the print scale for your printer. Otherwise, the pattern is not printed correctly.
After printing all the pages of the pattern, glue them in the order shown: the letters (A / B / C +) represent the column and the numbers (01/02/03 +) the row. The first (top left) sheet of the pattern will have the number A01.
* PRINT ON PLOTTER:
When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in Adobe Reader (or Foxit Reader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select "Poster" print mode under "Adjusting page size and handling". Make sure the Segment Scale field is set to 100%. Check the boxes for Clipping Marks, Labels, and Split Large Pages Only.
The following designations are adopted on the pattern:
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Parts list
Main material
Backrest - 1 piece
Right shelf - 1 piece
Left shelf - 1 piece
Pick-up - 2 parts
Part of the right pick - 1 piece
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Hood - 2 pieces
Hood insert - 1 piece
Hood piping - 1 piece
Hood strip - 1 piece
Upper rack - 1 piece
Bottom rack - 1 piece
Back neck facing - 1 piece
Back hem line - 1 piece
Shelf bottom line facing - 2 parts
Pocket flap - 4 pieces
Burlap (lining) pocket - 4 parts
Lining material
Backrest - 1 piece (folded)
Shelf - 1 piece
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Hood lining - 2 pieces
Hood insert - 1 piece
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Attention! When cutting parts, it is necessary to add a seam allowance for all cuts of 1.5 cm. The allowance for processing the lower edge of the sleeves depends on whether you will bend the sleeves and form from the allowance for processing cuffs. If the lining material is strictly in the color of the main one and along the bottom of the sleeve you decide to stitch the finishing line and leave the sleeves without turn-down cuffs, then the processing allowance is 1.5 - 3.5 cm.
Approximate consumption of base material3.0-4.0 meters (depending on size and height), with a width of 150 cm.
Attention!The figure shows the layout of parts on the canvas for size / height - 44/170 cm.
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To make a down jacket you will also need:
- lining material - 2.0 - 2.5 m;
Detachable zipper - 70-85 cm, depending on height;
Insulation - 2.5 - 3.5 m, depending on its width and size and height of the product;
Buttons - 8 (9) pieces;
Zipper for attaching the hood - 35-45 cm, depending on the size (you need to measure the length of the lower cut of the hood part - 2 parts + insert);
Fur trim for the hood made of natural or artificial fur.
Technological sequence of processing
1. Sketch all the parts cut from the base material onto the insulation. Apply a quilting pattern to all parts from the right side of the fabric.
Attention!In the store you can find special markers or crayons that are removed after heat treatment. You can apply the pattern, and after quilting, remove the lines with a warm iron.
Attention!To simplify the process of quilting the base material with insulation, try gluing it. Yes! I am using a simple glue stick. Lightly grease the edges of the parts of the base material with glue from the seamy side, put insulation on it, press it and leave it for 5 minutes. You can also spot the fabric along the quilting lines. Don't overdo it! Try first on the lunges that are left over from the cut. Believe me, it's really easier this way.
2.Sew the quilting stitch as pattern. Stitch length - 0.4-0.5 cm (Fig. 1).
Attention! Do not tighten the thread and use the walking foot if possible.
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Process the pockets on the shelves as shown in fig. 2 and fig. 3.
Grind the flap with the lining, turn the flap to the right side and stitch the flap seam allowances onto the lining;
Lay the made pockets on the shelf (Fig. 2), according to the control marks and sequentially stitch the valve and the details of the burlap pocket to the shelf;
Stitch the seam allowance onto the lining;
Stitch the burlap pocket details
Sew darts on the shelf before and after the pocket entry line
Stitch the front and back along the shoulder cuts. Iron the seam allowances.
Stitch the front and back of the coat along the side cuts. Iron the seam allowances.
Determine the length of the placket by the length of the zipper. Grind the sides of the zipper strip and press it in half.
Baste and stitch a strip on the front side of the product along the cut of the neckline, strictly in the middle relative to the middle of the back, aligning the sections;
Stitch one side of the zipper along the edge of the placket stitching
Stitch the seam of the bottom line of the front and the seam of the bottom line of the back on the sides. It is better to press the seam allowances
Attention! Ironing operations must be treated very carefully. The process of ironing out the seams should not lead to flattening of the insulation.
Prepare your collar.
The collar assembly algorithm is classic and practically does not differ from the processing of the jacket stand-up collar:
Grind the upper strut of the lower one along the departure, turn out to the front side, sweep the edge and press it on.
Sew the top collar into the neck of the down jacket. Press the seam allowances onto the collar.
Finish the clasp.
The fastening design is also quite simple. The right shelf is wider than the left one by the width of the bar. The strap is for attaching buttons. Along the edge of the placket, a hem is sewn on from the inside and one side of the zipper is inserted into this seam. The second side of the zipper is inserted into the seam of turning the bead of the left shelf with a chuck (Fig. 4).
Figure: four
- Sew one side of the zipper tape to the hem along the inside cut (line 1);
- Sew the bar to the selection (line 2);
- grind the back neckline to the hem along the side cuts;
- Sew the lower rack into the backrest and facing of the back neck;
- grind the cut of the side of the right shelf with a pick, while grinning the side of the collar;
