The period in the development of fashion, which is now most often called "retro", falls on the 40s - 60s. last century. Some fashion historians may refer to retro and later periods, but this is most often the time frame set.
This time is distinguished by an emphasis on feminine silhouettes, flared wide skirts with a narrow, tight top. The trendsetters then were such legends as Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, actresses Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, Vivien Leigh.
The influence of this style is still felt today, especially today, when femininity is back in fashion. Almost any woman can wear retro-style clothes, you just need to choose the right accessories and choose a cut in accordance with the characteristics of the figure.
How to choose a retro dress for your figure
Retro style covers a fairly large period of time, and dresses with a wide variety of cuts belong to it. This allows you to choose the right option for any shape.
For women and girls with an hourglass figure (pronounced waist, rounded hips and chest of harmonious proportions), almost all dresses in the retro era will suit. It is worth avoiding only a boat-shaped neckline - it is better to stay with a V-shaped or closed one.
Slender owners of a boyish figure with small breasts and narrow hips are better off opting for high-waisted dresses that accentuate the breasts. A flared (but not overly curvy) skirt will create extra volume at the hips. But the length should be chosen just below the knee.
Girls with a noticeable belly, as well as with an unexpressed waist with large breasts and not too wide hips, should choose options with a high waist or straight dresses (such a cut can already be found closer to the 70s, but it is also often referred to as a retro style). Skirts should be just above the knee.
For women with a pear-shaped figure (large hips with narrow shoulders and relatively small breasts), retro dresses will help to make the upper part of the figure more feminine by giving a rounder outline of the chest. It is worth choosing models with small sleeves, since a sleeveless dress will visually make the shoulders even narrower.
For a figure characterized by the absence of a pronounced waist, rather wide hips and shoulders, a later version of a retro-style dress is best suited - with a straight, slightly widening silhouette, a high neckline, often with a collar.
This cut will make your figure more feminine. The skirt can be quite short. Or, conversely, you can choose the maximum length.
For those whose shoulders are much wider than the hips, retro sleeveless outfits with a full skirt are suitable, which will make the proportions more harmonious and visually reduce the shoulders.
It is better for girls inclined to be overweight to choose plain fabrics, or a vertical strip.
For what occasions a retro outfit is suitable
This trend in fashion is characterized by an emphasized femininity of the silhouette, which may be superfluous when working in an office or a strict dress code. Therefore, dresses in this style are best suited for the following situations:
- city \u200b\u200bwalks, romantic meetings;
- festive, solemn events;
- parties.
You can wear such a dress to work if you choose a model with a small sleeve and a not too tight top. Fluffy skirts, draperies and other decorations in the working version of the dress should also be discarded. In this case, preference is given to plain fabrics of calm colors.
In other cases, you can show your imagination and choose the style, color and accessories in accordance with your preferences and situation.
What colors, fabrics and patterns are preferred for a retro look
There are practically no restrictions for such dresses. Today, you can combine the main features of this style with modern trends and details from other eras. If you need to create an image that most closely matches the time when such outfits were worn, then you can follow the following rules:
- the color can be almost any, except for acidic ones, which were not yet in clothes at that time. Also, golden, silver fabrics were not used as the main (with the exception of rare evening options);
- the fabric itself should be dense enough, preference should be given to natural silk, cotton, satin, velvet, lace;
- in the 50s - 60s, fabrics with polka dots, stripes, and the French Vichy check were popular.
Depending on the style, light flowing or dense, heavy fabric may be more suitable. A variety of laces have also been used for layered draperies of varying lengths.
Dress styles
The following styles are most characteristic and recognizable for this style:
- a light, flowing dress made of plain fabrics, with a slightly high waist, tied with a belt, a high or shallow neckline, most often without sleeves or with a lantern sleeve;
- a dress with a tight top, emphasizing the roundness of the forms and a wide skirt in the shape of a bell or sun, often draperies of different lengths of lace were allowed along the bottom of the skirt. The neckline of such a dress should not have been very deep. It is this cut in combination with polka dot fabric that is most often repeated and used today. Large pleating could also be used for the skirt;
- dress with a high neckline, three-quarter sleeves and a tight-fitting, tapered skirt. This style may well be suitable for work, since it does not imply any frills in design;
- a later version is an A-shaped dress, most often without a belt. With a neckline or a stand-up collar, which could also be with a lapel.
Retro evening dresses
For evening dresses in this style, it is better to choose silk or satin fabrics. In the evening version, the maximum length of the dress is preferable.
In early dresses of this direction, the top is looser, the waist is slightly lowered. A characteristic feature is a large number of draperies, folds.
As a decoration option, a wide belt made of fabric of a contrasting color could be used, the long ends of which fell down the back along the skirt. A lot of jewelry, various capes, light scarves, boas are necessarily used.
In a later version, the top of the dress should fit the figure. Skirts usually hugged the hips, and expanded towards the bottom and lay down in beautiful folds. The back hem could be slightly longer than the front, resulting in a small train. Additional decorations could appear on top - large bows from the main fabric of the dress, a complex cut of the bodice.
The dress might not have sleeves, or the sleeves were short. The neckline was usually shallow, even on retro evening dresses.
Wedding outfits
In such a dress, the bride will be especially gentle and romantic. For a retro look, you can use lace as the main fabric and a satin or silk lining.
In this version of the early retro, the top is sewn quite freely, the skirt of the maximum length falls in free folds or is made almost straight, but free. A wide white silk belt will complete the look. This cut also looks good with satin fabric.
If the option of a short dress is being considered, then you can take the later samples of retro as a sample and sew a dress from satin fabric, with a tight top and a bell skirt.
Shoes and accessories for a retro dress
Elegant, elegant shoes with steady heels are suitable for dresses of this style. Knee high boots with heels or neat boots are good for cool weather. The color of the shoes is selected in accordance with the color of the dress - they may differ, but the combination should be harmonious.
It is better to choose accessories corresponding to the time when dresses of a similar cut were worn. For example, for the early retro style bags made of satin fabric or silk are typical, for later periods there are graceful case bags, sometimes with a strap.
Various brooches, tassel earrings, clips, graceful, intricate rings and bracelets are also welcome.
Makeup and hairstyle - finishing touches for a retro look
The look in this style is characterized by neat styling, smooth shiny hair. In the early period, the girls did smooth styling with embossed curls framing the face. Hair can be tied up with a lace elastic band. In the later retro, volume appears, large waves, but the hair should lie neat and smooth.
As options for styling, various bundles are best suited, hair gathered and laid in the back using hairpins, hairpins in lush, neat hairstyles.
Retro makeup shouldn't be too flashy. The eyes are emphasized with dark shadows for a smoky effect. You can slightly emphasize the line of the cheekbones and cheeks with blush. The most characteristic of this style is matte lipstick in saturated colors.
Dress patterns
Retro style dresses should fit perfectly on their wearer. In most options, rather complex cut elements are used, which cannot be dealt with immediately, even with certain sewing skills. All measurements should be carefully carried out so that the finished product is pleasant to wear, and the work is not done in vain.
Plain summer dress with flared skirt
Dress pattern with a skirt below the knee and pleats on the sides
Dress pattern with a flared skirt and fitted top
Dress with pleated skirt
Retro style short wedding dress pattern
You can watch the following video about modeling a dress in a retro style.
The fashion for a dress with a full skirt dates back to the Middle Ages. The surge in popularity of this cut was observed in the 50-60s of the last century after the show of the genius couturier Christian Dior. He presented the legendary New Look collection. And to this day, in almost every show, fashion designers use the technique of sewing puffy skirts in a wide variety of variations. Having mastered the technique of sewing a wardrobe item that has already become a classic, you can independently create a unique model.
Retro style
Patterns of dresses and skirts were widespread in the middle of the last century.
A classic version of a retro dress with a fluffy skirt is a model below the knee with a wide belt at the waist or slightly higher. The "wasp" silhouette is the best fit for this style.
The texture of the fabric can be very diverse. The use of "holiday" materials or everyday ones is allowed. A retro dress with a full skirt will definitely require compliance with the completeness of the entire image. To do this, you need to do the appropriate makeup and hairstyle, choose underwear in a similar style.
Modern models
A fluffy skirt in most cases is combined with a thin waistline. This visually makes the figure graceful.
To make a dress with a full skirt look modern, we advise you to move away from the classic version. To do this, you can make a pattern and sew a short dress with a fluffy skirt. Models in length can be minimal.
You can leave a fairly large length of the product and transfer the belt line almost to the hips. The main thing is to combine such skirts with an accentuated top waist. It shouldn't be bulky. Shoes with heels look good with such models.
In a modern style, both casual and evening festive outfits look good.
Street style
A feature of this style in sewing models with a fluffy skirt is a combination of all kinds of textures and colors that merge into a single image.
This direction is suitable for those individuals who are open to everything new and are not afraid to experiment.
For example, you can create a corset dress with a full skirt and tiger-print shoes. The main thing is not to be afraid to make a mistake and look for your own image. Inspiration will suggest the most interesting options. Ideas for a unique look can be drawn from various sources, combining and modifying the things you like.
Wedding dresses with a fluffy skirt
The bride's dress traditionally has a fluffy skirt. The style of this dress emphasizes the sophistication and purity of the girl, creating a graceful image of a princess.
The materials used for sewing such an outfit can be very diverse. They use satin, silk, organza, chiffon and tulle. A wide variety of fabrics create a fluid, airy and luxurious look for the bride.
A wedding dress with a puffy skirt became popular in Europe in the 19th century. This style was chosen for the wedding by Queen Victoria of England.
In the modern world of wedding fashion, there are many options for a bride's outfit. These can be wedding dresses with a long full skirt, as well as models of medium length. There are also quite original outfits, for example, with a short skirt in front and a long train in the back. Various patterns and fabric finishes complement the look.
Wedding dresses have a complex structure and many details. It can be an outfit with a corset, with a fluffy skirt and a petticoat, which gives the model additional volume. Sometimes crinoline, train and other finishing elements are used.
Expert advice will help you choose the right combinations of all the components of the image. You can create your own model of a wedding dress, based on the existing work of designers and fashion designers.
Sewing a dress with a fluffy skirt for a wedding ceremony is quite difficult, however, having dared to take this step, you can create a truly chic and original model that will become a key attribute of the whole celebration.
Modeling patterns
Then folds are marked on the pattern with the same distance from each other.
Similarly, taking into account all sizes, the back of the product is modeled. All relevant darts are applied.
If the model assumes the presence of sleeves, a train, additional parts, their development is carried out in accordance with the style.
Dress patterns with a fluffy skirt usually involve the use of lining. For this, the development of the lower material is carried out, taking into account the style of the dress. It should be 7-20 cm less than the main length of the product.
Cut
Initially, the fabric is distributed into the main and lining. The upper material of the dress is divided into bodice, sleeves, bottom.
For a bodice pattern, the main fabric is folded in half, with the front surface inward. A paper pattern is applied in the middle of the bodice to the place where the fabric is bent and secured with pins. The outline of the pattern is applied to the fabric with chalk, leaving a seam allowance of about 1 cm.
Then the details of the back and, if provided in the model, the side parts of the bodice are applied to the fabric. Similarly, they are outlined with chalk.
Then, both the main and the lining fabric are cut.
Dress patterns with a fluffy skirt, which have a pattern on the sides, are more complicated than one-piece models. For a simple fluffy skirt, one canvas is cut out in accordance with the dimensions, but the drawing will add complexity to the work.
It measures 2 m of fabric in the length of the material and folds in half. Then, the required length of the skirt is measured along the width of the product and 3 cm of the allowance for hemming the dress is taken into account.
Wide opposite folds are made along the edge of the material. They are cleaved with pins, and then sewn with threads.
The process of distributing material to patterns is completed with additional details.
When sewing, all components are swept together and sewn on a typewriter.
Combination of color and texture
The creative process of developing a model is not limited to the choice of color. You can create a unique look by combining different fabric textures.
Long dresses with a fluffy skirt can be made from several completely different types of fabric.
For example, it is allowed to make the bottom of the dress from a lighter material, and to come up with a corset made of thick fabric upstairs. Denim material will look modern on the bodice. If it is darker than the skirt, the effect of a narrower waist will be created. The silhouette will be more graceful and sophisticated.
You can combine the femininity of a short full skirt with sports shoes or boots.
Combining retro style with modern hair styling and makeup can create a completely new, unique look.
A dress with a full skirt will add romance even to leather goods or models made of rough fabric. You can complement the look with romantic styling or matching outfit details.
Taking advantage of her imagination, every girl is able to create a very interesting, simply amazing image.
Who are fluffy skirts suitable for?
Outfits with puffy skirts look good on the fair sex of any age.
The only thing that is required to ensure the harmony of the outfit and the whole image of a woman is to correctly select the varieties of this wardrobe element.
Mature ladies look best in fluffy dresses below the knee or longer. This will add consistency and luxury to the image.
Almost any variation of such dresses suits young girls. Bright colors, extravagant models look beneficial.
But middle-aged women should choose muted, pastel-colored clothing.
Having familiarized yourself with the existing styles and the technology for modeling a wide variety of options using a pattern, you can create a dress with a fluffy skirt of incredible beauty. Using inspiration and imagination, it is quite possible to come up with an original stunning image that emphasizes femininity and individuality.
Retro style is more popular today than ever. Dresses in retro style are a must for every girl. Who are they suitable for? What models will be popular in 2019? Read about this in our article.
Fashion is back, which is why the retro style has not lost its popularity for a year in a row. Those who have already found their individual style, as well as those who are just determined, are not averse to wearing dresses, the style of which resembles the models of the last century, which were worn by women in the 20s and 70s.
In the 20-30s, women's fashion developed under the spirit of emancipation: the ladies began to wear shorter dresses, lit cigarettes.
The main trend of the beginning of the 20th century is rude clothes, masculine images. Dresses with wing-shaped sleeves and low waist became a fashionable favorite. Women covered their bare shoulders and arms with boas or boas. Dresses were worn with shoes with a rounded toe, as well as with fishnet stockings.
Retro style dress 20s 30s
In 1926, Gabrielle Chanel, having made a major revolution, created her little black dress.
The model of this retro dress is used by designers to this day. Long or short, strict or open - it takes pride of place in the collections of world brands. The dress has an incredible success among women, because a little black dress makes any figure so feminine and so attractive. It is incredible for all women, without exception.
In the 30s, dress models became more open and seductive. There was a new emphasis: it hugged the thighs and received a shorter length to the mid-calf and above. A little later, models of dresses appeared that emphasized the waist.
Retro dress 40s 50s
In the 40-50s, in the difficult post-war period, vulgarity was replaced by restraint and modesty. Christian Dior made a kind of revolution: he invented the new look style. Models of dresses with a narrowed waist, a fitted bodice and a not too deep neckline, emphasizing the gracefulness and femininity of the figure, came into fashion.
Dresses made of satin, silk, velvet, and crepe de Chine were very popular. The colors were very diverse: both monochromatic calm and bright, colored. Dresses were worn with wide lacquered belts, tight-fitting elbow-length gloves, long-brimmed hats, and small envelope-shaped handbags.
Retro dress 60s 70s
Fashion trends of dresses 60s - 70s passed under the sign of sensuality and sexuality. Marilyn Monroe and Brigitte Bardot became trendsetters, showing open dresses with a deep neckline. The colors are dominated by blue, red and pink.
A fashionable pattern - a cage, polka dots, and especially flowers. The most popular dress fabrics were nylon and crimplen. A very popular model was a dress with a year skirt, three-quarter sleeves and a high stand-up collar. Headscarves, headbands and large dark glasses have become relevant as accessories.
Fashionable dresses 2019 in retro style
Since then, designers have taken the retro style as a basis, complementing it with new modern details. Retro dresses are a fashion favorite of both this and the upcoming spring-summer season. The collections of the great designers showcase both romantic and elegant models.
Designers still use polka dots, a cage, and flower arrangements as the main pattern of dresses in retro force.
Who suits retro dresses
Slender girls may well wear dresses with a bell bottom to emphasize the waist, chest and hips. The length is selected, starting with a bold mini, ending with a maxi. Finding the right accessories and shoes is the main task of a fashionista.
If you need to hide figure flaws, you should choose the right drapery and print. A narrow vertical strip will visually stretch the silhouette and make the waist slimmer. A retro dress with a high waist lengthens the legs, and with the help of drapery on the bodice, you can accentuate the lush neckline.
Twiggy's loose cropped model is perfect for skinny girls. She emphasizes tenderness and harmony.
Actual drawings and colors in 2019
Romantic retro dresses are especially loved by many designers, and they show their love for retro by creating entire collections based on the new look. Famous couturiers, Prada, Louis Vuitton and others offer women this unusual style.
So, the most popular will be the following colors:
- White
The solemn luxury option is in special demand among fashionistas. He does not need a chic finish, because the white dress looks elegant and without unnecessary details. Ideal color - in the style of "Chicago".
- Dotted
A dress with polka dots, contrasting in color with the base of the dress, is a model that now and then flashes in the new collections of the great couturiers. A simple pattern fits perfectly with a flirtylook and creates a cute and romantic image.
- Red
The bold color of the retro dress creates an image of the femme fatale. This outfit is a great solution for an evening out. Delicate rhinestones and metallic details on the belt and shoulder straps make the dress especially luxurious.
Fashion trends of modern dresses in retro style - asymmetrical drapery, lace, high waist, seductive corsets.
Most often, designers offer retro dresses made of chiffon, tulle, silk, cotton.
It is surprising that if earlier each era dictated its own style, displacing the previous one, now modern women of fashion have things of different styles perfectly coexist in one wardrobe.
It must be remembered that your outfit should be in the same style. Do not mix up "mixed" clothes, otherwise you will look ridiculous.
Retro dresses are unlikely to become everyday wear. Better to wear it on special occasions. So, for example, you will look appropriate and harmonious in such an outfit at a social event or an antique exhibition.
The retro dress is very fashionable and unusual today. Want to add a touch of variety to your style? Get a retro dress!
Fashion is a changeable lady. However, if some options for clothing are "passable", then there are those that forever go down in the history of fashion. The former are at the peak of popularity for a short time, but the latter are becoming classics, to which fashion returns from time to time.
What is retro style?
Retro clothes are models that were fashionable in the last century from the 20s to the 90s. True, not all decades of the last century have left a noticeable mark on the history of fashion. The most popular models are dresses in the style of the 20s, 50s and 60s.
Retro style is very popular among adult fashionistas. But children's fashion does not pass him by, so a dress for a girl in a retro style should definitely appear in your daughter's wardrobe. Such an outfit will be appropriate at a matinee, at a family celebration and any other event. Considering the photos of models of children's dresses, you can always choose the option that is ideal for your girl.
Charleston style
A simple and uncomplicated dress in the style of the 20s is shaped like a rectangle. It is characterized by a low waistline, a straight bodice without darts and excessive decor, and a skirt consisting of several flounces. The dress can be knee length or have an asymmetrical skirt with lengthening on one side.
This dress looks less pretentious than dresses with fluffy skirts, but girls aged 8-10 will look great in it. Sew a similar dress from any well-draped fabric, glitter fabrics are welcome. Rhinestones, fringes, velvet, feathers are used for decoration.
What to wear with?
To make the retro look authentic, you need to choose the right accessories for it. In winter, the outfit can be complemented with a fur cape and long gloves. In summer, use a silk scarf or feather boa. You can put a long string of pearls on the girl. An interesting detail of the look will be a pill hat with a veil or artificial flowers.
Hairstyle
A Charleston dress needs a matching hairstyle. In the 1920s, wave styling was very popular. Such a hairstyle for a wave can be done by your daughter yourself, using styling products and hair clips. Long hair should be gathered in a messy bun or curled into curls.
New look style
The middle of the last century went down in fashion history as a triumph of feminine models. Fitted dresses with puffy skirts are in fashion. It is in this style that the most popular retro dresses for girls today are presented. They are sewn from bright fabrics, often using polka dots or floral patterns. This style in our country is often called the "Hipster" style, since it was these dresses that were popular during the period of the spread of this subculture.
The main features of this dress:
- tight bodice;
- there may be no sleeves, but lantern sleeves look cute on children's dresses;
- sun-cut skirt;
- fluffy, multi-layered petticoat made of tulle or organza. Moreover, the petticoat can be of a contrasting color.
What to wear with?
Dress in the style of "new bow" does not require a lot of accessories, as it is bright about itself. Almost the only decoration is a wide belt in a contrasting color; it can be tied with a lush bow on the back or decorated with an artificial flower.
You can wear short bright beads around the girl's neck. Short openwork gloves will become an interesting detail.
Hairstyles
A high ponytail or babette styling can be done to create the look. Satin ribbons and hoops are used to decorate the hairstyle.
"Trapezium" from the 60s
Less popular, but no less interesting are retro trapeze dresses for children. This style appeared in the sixties, it is distinguished by a free silhouette, extremely laconic cut and length well above the knees. If a model with a sleeve is used, then this part is also cut out in the shape of a trapezoid.
Despite such a simple cut, elegant children's dresses can also have this style. You just need to choose the right fabric, such as velvet or jacquard. Dresses from guipure on a cover look interesting. Dresses are usually trimmed with a contrasting trim that runs along the hem, sleeve hem and the front closure line. A dress made of fabric with a metallic effect looks elegant, you can also choose an outfit in a bright acid shade.
What to wear with?
The laconic cut of the dress requires laconic accessories. You can choose plastic jewelry for the dress - beads or bracelets.
Hairstyle
In the sixties, most girls curled their hair with curlers or did "chemistry". Of course, a child shouldn't be permed. It is much easier to do your hair: braid your daughter's hair in a few thin braids for the night. In the morning, gently loosen the braids and your hair is ready. Hair can be collected in a ponytail or pinned at the temples.
Radzimir fabric 140 cm wide: dim. 36 - 2.25 m, dim. 38, 40 - 2.30 m, dim. 42, 44 - 2.35 m; lining fabric 140 cm wide: dim. 36, 38 - 0.45 m, dim. 40, 42, 44 - 0.50 m; non-woven formband; 1 hidden zipper 60 cm long and a special sewing machine foot for attaching it; sewing thread.Moreover:
silk paper for transferring patterns from a sheet of patterns; pencil, paper scissors; tape measure; tailor's pins; tailor's chalk; scissors for cutting and small scissors for needlework; burda carbon paper, gear wheel for pattern transfer; sewing machine needle and hand sewing needle.Dress pattern
… Pink in color, so it's easy to find it on the pattern sheets. Place the silk paper over the pattern sheet and pin. Translate the details of the pattern of your size along the corresponding contour lines and do not forget about the markings and inscriptions.Extra pink pattern on pattern sheets A and B
A: parts 1-4 and 7Q: parts 5, 6, 8 and 9
Tip: to significantly simplify the cutting process, reshape parts 1, 2 and 3 twice.
Size: 36−44
Extra tip: the size of the dress is determined by the bust (size 36 \u003d 84 cm, size 38 \u003d 88 cm, size 40 \u003d 92 cm, size 42 \u003d 96 cm, size 44 \u003d 100 cm).
Layout plans
... show you how to arrange the details of the paper pattern on the fabric. Pin the pieces of the paper pattern.
1 Middle part of the bodice front 4x (of which 2x as lining details)
2 Intermediate part of the bodice front 4x (of which 2x as lining parts)
3 Side part of the bodice, front 4x (of which 2x as lining parts)
4 Middle part of the bodice back 2x *
5 Intermediate part of the bodice back 2x *
6 Side part of the bodice back 2x *
7 Front panel of skirt 2x
8 Detail for a counter fold with a fold 1x
9 Back panel of skirt 2x
* These parts are also cut out of the lining fabric.
Cut out parts from the main fabric
Fold the fabric in half lengthwise with the right side in. Lay the details of the paper pattern 1-9 on the fabric folded in half, while detailing 8 to the fold. Pin the details. Around the details of the paper pattern, mark the allowances with tailor's chalk: for the hem of the bottom - 4 cm, for all other seams and along the cuts - 1.5 cm. Cut out the part.
Cutting out parts from lining fabric
Fold the lining fabric in half, right side in. Place paper pattern details 4, 5 and 6 on the fabric and pin. Around the details of the paper pattern, mark the allowances with tailor's chalk: for all seams and along the cuts - 1.5 cm. Cut out the details.
Seam lines and markings
Transfer the contours of all parts of the pattern (seam and bottom lines), with the exception of the line thread direction, to the wrong side of the cut parts from the main and lining fabrics using a gear wheel (cutter) and carbon paper (see the manufacturer's instructions). On the allowances along the middle cuts of the back panels of the skirt, at the cut marks for the hidden zipper, make notches 5 mm long.
Non-woven formband
Press along the cuts of the front and back necklines of the lining parts (wrong side) so that the chain seam on the non-woven fabric lies at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the allowance.
Embossed front seams
Place each intermediate part of the front bodice on the middle part of the bodice in front of the front side to the front side, pin off the embossed sections (reference mark 1), sticking pins across exactly along the seam line and bringing them out at the allowances. Carefully place the stitch over the pins. Remove the pins. Put each side part of the front bodice on the intermediate part of the front bodice with the front side to the front side (control mark 2), in the same way cleave the relief sections, stitch. Fold the front parts of the bodice with the front sides, chop off the middle sections. Stitch. Similarly, make the raised seams on the bodice of the front of the lining.
Embossed back bodice
Glue and stitch the embossed sections of the back bodice (reference marks 3 and 4) from the main and lining fabrics in the same way as the embossed sections of the front bodice (step 5). Do not sew the middle seam on the back bodice. On parts of the front and back bodices from the main and lining fabrics, cut the seam allowances to a width of 1 cm, make notches in the rounding areas. Iron the seam allowances.
Side seams on the bodice of the dress and bodice lining
Place parts of the bodice of the back on the bodice in front of the front side to the front side, chop off the side cuts (reference mark 6). Stitch. Place parts of the bodice of the back of the lining on the bodice of the front of the lining with the right side to the front side, pin and stitch the side sections. Cut the seam allowances to a width of 1 cm and iron them.
Lining the neckline and armholes
Press the shoulder allowances of the lining to the wrong side. Pin the lining, respectively, to the front bodice and parts of the back bodice with the front side to the front side, aligning the side seams, as well as the lines of the necklines and armholes. Run the stitches along the cuts of the armholes and necklines, starting / ending sewing exactly at the marked lines of the shoulder seams. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitches, make notches in the fillet areas.
Neck and armhole
Turn the backing up and stitch over the seam allowance close to the seam as long as possible. Unscrew the lining to the wrong side, the necklines of the front and back, as well as iron the armholes.
Shoulder seams
Place parts of the back bodice on the front of the bodice with the right side to the front side, pin off the shoulder sections (reference mark 5), stitch without securing the lining. Iron the seam allowances and hide under the lining. Sew the ironed shoulder sections of the lining by hand.
Skirt folds
On the front and back panels of the skirt, pin off the fold lines to the arrow marks (with the right side inward). Sew the folds from the top to the arrow marks, and bartack at the beginning and end of the seams. Fold the front panels of the skirt with the right sides, pin off the middle cuts from the top cut to the cross mark (arrow). Stitch. Press the folds in the direction of the arrow marks to the length of the seams, press the allowances of the middle seam, iron, do not press the folds of the folds.
Hem hem, pleat detail
On the details for the opposite fold and on the front panels of the skirt, sweep the hem allowances for the hem, press on the wrong side and pin. Place the detail under the fold from the wrong side on the ironed allowances of the middle seam of the front panel of the skirt with the right side to the front side, aligning the lines of the middle of the front. Split the longitudinal cuts of the part under the fold and the front panels of the skirt. Stitch. Fold the lower ends of the seam allowances obliquely towards each other and sew by hand. Sweep the overlaps of each seam together. Baste the detail for the opposite fold to the upper edge of the front panel of the skirt.
Side seams on the skirt
Sew the hem allowances at the bottom of the back panels of the skirt. Place the back panels of the skirt on the front panel of the skirt with the right side to the front side, pin off the side cuts (reference mark 7), while unscrewing the ironed allowances for the hem of the bottom of the front panels of the skirt down again. Neaten and press the seam allowances.
Waist seam
Pin the lower section of the bodice of the dress to the upper cut of the skirt with the right side to the front side, aligning the side seams, the embossed seams of the bodice with the seams of the skirt folds, as well as the middle seams on the front bodice and the front panel of the skirt. When doing this, do not fasten the lining. Grind. Press the seam allowances onto the bodice of the dress.
Concealed zipper, right half
At the middle cuts of the backrest parts, turn the lining up again. Place the opened hidden zipper upside down on the right side of the back along the edge of the cut at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the allowance, align the upper teeth of the invisible zipper with the edge of the neckline. Sew the blind zipper up to the cut mark (notch) with the special foot of the sewing machine. The sewing machine needle is to the left of the teeth.
Concealed zipper, left half
Close the hidden zipper. Place the other tape of the hidden zipper on the left side of the back along the edge of the cut, pin it at the top. Open the blindfold zipper again, and sew another tape of the blindfold zipper to the cut mark. The sewing machine needle is to the right of the teeth.
Middle back seam
Fold the parts of the back with the right sides, pin off the middle cuts from the bottom to the cut mark, aligning the seam lines. At the same time, turn the free lower end of the hidden zipper to the edges of the allowances. Stitch. Iron and overcast seam allowances.
Sew on lining, hem
Turn the allowances on the middle sections of the bodice of the back of the lining and on the lower edge of the lining to the wrong side and pin to the laces of the invisible zipper and to the seam allowances at the waist. Sew the lining by hand. Press the rest of the hem of the bottom of the dress on the wrong side and sew it by hand with loose stitches.
Photo: U2 / Uli Glasemann. Illustrations: Karina Niring. Text: Marianne Mussler.
The material was prepared by Yulia Dekanova
