Decorative seam along the edge by hand. Hand decorative stitches

The parts of the clothing are connected into one whole using seams. A needle is used for this. With its help, stitches are made on fabric or other material with thread, their completed combination forms a seam.

Before invention sewing machines all work was done manually. At home and in handicraft production, this practice still exists. Hand stitching is also indispensable at the initial stage of creating clothing models. Various sewing techniques are used to decorate fabric.

Sewing principles

A suture is formed by interlacing one or more threads in a specific sequence. It is advisable to temporarily attach individual elements of patterns at the initial stage. This connection is usually done manually. After fitting and final finishing, the hand seam is replaced by machine stitching.

Depending on the end goal, clothing parts can be connected different ways. The seams will differ significantly in stitch density, strength, etc.

In some cases, what comes first is not the quality of the connection, but the decorative properties of laying the threads on the front surface. Such seams are called decorative and they serve to finish the finished product.

The completed movement of the needle and thread forms a stitch on the material. The sequence of such actions is called a line. The connection of a section of material, made in one or more lines, forms a seam.

Regardless of the technique, the stitches on the front and back sides should be placed evenly, at the same distance from each other, and have uniform thread tension.

Types of manual connections

To temporarily connect parts and marks during fitting, basting, interlining and transfer seams are used. So-called snares are used to transfer contour lines from one symmetrical part of the product to another.

The edges of the material are finished with a round seam. It is convenient to use for preparing frills, flounces and other details. A hand stitch that resembles a machine stitch is called a stitch stitch. It is used for permanent fastening of clothing parts.

The marking seam is made like a stitch seam, but not with the same density. The distance between adjacent stitches is made equal to half their length. To prevent the edges of the fabric from fraying, they are treated with an overcast stitch. It can be oblique, cross-shaped or looped according to the technique of execution.

A hemming stitch is used to finish folded edges. According to the technique of execution, it can be simple (open), secret or figured.

Stacking connections

Before the invention of sewing machines, hand stitching was used to fasten clothing parts. The difference between a basting connection and a stitch connection is that the needle does not move forward constantly, but returns back with each new injection.

In this case, the stitches are not formed alternately, either on the front surface or on the back surface, but intersect. This achieves increased strength and elasticity of the connection.

On the front side, the stitches are short, at the same distance from each other. At the same time, on the wrong side they are three times longer, overlap each other, have no gaps and form a continuous line.

The so-called machine hand stitch, or “stitch,” is particularly durable. With high-quality execution, there is doubt that it was made by hand. The stitches on the front part are the same size without gaps, on the back they overlap each other and are twice as long.

Technique for making bonded joints

These stitches are also called “back needle”. And this is justified, because with each exit to the front part she returns a step back. The distance can be equal to half the purl stitch or one third of it. Depending on the purpose of the connection, the gap can be from 1 to 7 mm.

The seam is made from right to left. The needle is inserted from top to bottom, passed under the fabric and brought out to the front part to form a stitch of the required length from the inside. Then she takes a step back. The injection is made again into the first hole, after which the cycle is repeated both from the inside and on the front part. In this case, a hand-stitched seam is formed.

If, after bringing the thread to the front part, a second injection is made not into the first hole, but in the middle between the entrance and exit of the needle, then such a manual stitch is called “behind the needle.” It does not form a continuous line of stitches across the face, and is not as strong as a stitch, but it is faster.

Finishing seams

In some cases, when installing parts of clothing or securing individual parts of it, a pattern that is pleasing to the eye is formed on the surface. This connection is called finishing.

For hemming knitwear and sewing thick, non-flowing fabrics, a manual decorative goat stitch is used, forming a simple cross-shaped pattern.

The nun joint is used to finish the edges of pockets, cuts and folds. Such fasteners are made in the form of loop stitches in the form of branches and chains, which are characteristic of herringbone connections. They are used to hem the edges of the material.

These types of finishing can be used for fastening clothing parts, and can be used separately, only to give the finished product decorative distinctive features.

Embroidery

Mass factory production of clothing pushed hand sewing into the background. Only true connoisseurs of original clothing or artistic embroidery take up this craft seriously. Sometimes the imagination of such tailors amazes when simply unique items appear with lapels, vents, loops and pockets decorated with decorative embroidery.

The monastic sister and hand stitching when finishing the robes of clergy is a mandatory practice. Particular care and accuracy is required when preparing the bishop's vestments. Hand-made embroidered icons are a unique technique that requires both perseverance, special skills, and purity of thoughts.

A special place is occupied by gold and silk embroidery, as well as carpet and volumetric technology. Amazingly beautiful works, decorated with sequins, mirrors, beads and gold. Cross stitch has been known since ancient times; it was used to decorate handmade paintings, decorative items, and clothing.

A hand-decorative satin stitch is a series of flat stitches on fabric. During operation, they completely fill the contour of the applied decorative pattern. This technique uses different types of seams: “Vladimir”, “stalk”, “knot”, “narrow satin roll”, “attached loop” and others. There are several types of satin stitch: artistic colored, white, satin, Chinese, Japanese, Russian Alexandrovskaya and Mstera.

It is used for joining parts of fur skins and for minor repairs. For sewing, needles and threads are used in accordance with the thickness of the inner layer of the skin. The thicker and longer the fur, the larger the diameter of the thread and the size of the needle. To join thin skins, the stitch frequency must be increased.

The seam is made from right to left. There is no knot at the end of the thread; it is secured with several stitches in one place. Before starting work, the pile must be laid in such a way that it does not interfere with sewing. To do this, the skins are folded with the fur inward. Individual hairs are threaded with a needle onto the front side.

A hand furrier's stitch is made by moving the needle away from you. Two skins are pierced at once, the thread is pulled through, thrown over the edge and reinserted into the same hole. After the thread is pulled tightly, the loop is tightened. The needle is thrown back over the edge and the process is repeated with the second hole.

Secrets of mastery

A hand stitch begins by pulling a thread needle into the eye. In order for it to be obedient in operation, not tangled or twisted, it should be cut from the reel after threading.

Biting off floss ruins your teeth and doesn't look professional at all. It is better to make a neat cut with sharp scissors not across it, but at an angle, then it will be easier to get into the ear.

It is better not to knit a knot at the end of the thread, but to secure it with several reverse stitches. An experienced craftswoman knows that any seal on the fabric when ironing can be imprinted on the surface or will be visible through.

Sewing with a long thread (more than 70 cm) is inconvenient. In the old days, craftswomen who practiced this method were spoken of as lazy girls who did not want to make an extra movement.

When we talk about embroidery, the first thing that comes to mind is cross stitch. But there are a huge number of other decorative stitches and embroidery techniques in the world. Decorative seams do not mean complicated ones. It is often easier to embroider with them than with a cross. Many hand-made decorative seams do not require such scrupulous calculations as a cross and “forgive” the mistakes of inexperienced fingers. There is one more plus. With simple stitches you can do embroidery not on canvas, but on regular fabric. Embroider directly on the corner of the tablecloth, or decorate jeans with decorative stitches. There are many options! And no outline. You can even make spectacular embroideries using a “forward needle” stitch. How much easier can it be? What can we say about the potential of a chain stitch or “French knots”.

The simple stitches that we are going to talk about will become excellent embroidery material for beginning needlewomen.

Straight stitch.

This is the most basic stitch. You can use it to embroider anything. It can be laid in any direction, of any length.

Snowflake with straight stitches. Draw a circle and mark the middle. We mark the circle with the required number of petal points. We bring the needle out from the center and make stitches, all the time returning the needle to the center. V-A; S-A; D-A and so on.

Seam "forward needle"

Perhaps the most famous simplest seam. To decorate it, you can change the length of the stitches: for example, 2 short, 1 long, etc.

Satin stitch is a very beautiful independent embroidery. It was especially widespread in the middle of the last century. Perhaps someone at home still has their grandmother’s satin stitch embroidery - pillowcases, napkins. You can use the satin stitch as an element for filling. The stitches in this technique are placed neatly parallel to each other along the entire shape that needs to be filled.

How to sew with satin stitch: First, draw the desired shape on the fabric. We start from the edge of the drawing. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick it in at point B, and then we bring it out to the face at point C, next to point A. We continue to embroider tightly, placing stitches one next to the other.

Back stitch or stitch

The backstitch with a needle is often used: it is used to embroider stems, inscriptions, and make an outline (for example, in cross stitch). Sew by hand when you need to sew two parts together tightly.

How to sew with a backstitch: Draw a line on the fabric. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick it in at point B, it is located behind point A. And then we bring it out to the face at point C, it is in front of point A. We make the next stitch by sticking the needle into point A and bring it out in front of point C.

Stem seam

Like the backstitch stitch, stem stitch embroidery is used for stems, inscriptions, and outline designs.

How to sew with a stem stitch: Draw a line on the fabric. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A at the beginning of the line. We make stitch B-C, point C is in the middle between A and B. The following stitches: D - B, E - Di.etc. The thread should always remain on one side when making stitches. When bending the line, the stitches may fall apart; to prevent this from happening, the stitches can be made smaller.

Fern seam

Decorative seam. The fern stitch looks like a stem with leaves. To make the design look more natural, you can change the angle and length of the leaves.

How to sew a fern stitch: Draw a curved line. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A at some distance from the beginning of the line. We insert the needle at point B (the beginning of the line)) and bring it to the face at point C (on the side of the intended line), and pull out the thread. Make stitch A - D (point D is on the other side of the intended line), pull out the thread. Next we make a stitch A - E along the line. It turns out to be a twig.

Chain stitch

One of the most common and beautiful decorative seams. The small, children's machine "Grasshopper" sews with this seam. They begin to embroider with chain stitch as early as kindergarten, for some reason it is considered to be very simple. They can be used to sew along a line, outline a design, embroider an inscription, and even fill out a form.

How to sew with a chain stitch: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle in at point B (next to point A) and bring it out to the face at point C, but do not pull the thread until we pass it under the formed loop. Next, we make the next loop: by inserting the needle next to point C (inside the previous loop) and bringing it out at point E. Again we thread it through the resulting loop, etc. In order to finish the seam, we stick the needle into point F and bring the thread to the wrong side.

Loop stitch or edge stitch

This seam is used to process the edges of the products and sew them into buttonholes by hand. It looks very nice and is easy to make. Can be used as a decorative stitch.

How to sew with a buttonhole stitch: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle in at point B and bring it out to the face at point C, but do not pull the thread until we pass it under the needle. We continue to place stitches from left to right. When the row is completed, insert the needle into point D immediately behind the loop. Try to place stitches evenly spaced apart.

You can alternate the length of the stitch legs - it will turn out beautifully.

Tambour loop (flower)

The chain stitch is a variation of the chain stitch in which each loop in the chain is sewn separately. If you embroider several chain stitches around the central point, you will get a flower. The leaf will come out of a separate chain loop

How to embroider with a chain loop: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle in at point B (next to point A) and bring it to the face at point C, but do not pull the thread until we pass it under the formed loop. Next, we stick the needle into point D, thereby closing the petal-loop, and bring it out at point A. We continue to make petals in a circle.

Open decorative loop or U-loop or half-loop

This loop is similar to a tambour loop, but with an open end. With an open decorative loop you can embroider petals on a flower, or rays of the sun.

How to embroider with an open decorative loop: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle in at point B (away from point A) and bring it out to the face at point C, put the thread under the needle and pull it out. Next, we stick the needle into point D, thereby securing the thread. The C-D stitch can be done in different lengths.

Velvet seam, or “goat”

Decorative velvet stitch, similar to a series of crosses located close to each other. Performed along two parallel lines.

How to make a velvet seam: Draw two parallel lines. We work from left to right. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A at the beginning of the intended line of the top line. We make a backstitch on the bottom line B - C, then a backstitch on the top line D-E, etc.

Herringbone seam

The herringbone stitch is very decorative. It's a pleasure to embroider and easy to make. You can sew evenly and neatly, then you will get a strict geometric pattern. You can also vary the inclination and length of the stitches, then the pattern will come out more natural.

How to sew a herringbone seam: Draw a line on the fabric. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A at the beginning of the intended line. We insert the needle at point B (on the side of point A)) and bring it to the face at point C (in front along the intended line), pull out the thread, having first threaded it under the needle. The result is a half-loop. Make a stitch D - E (point D is on the other side of the intended line), pull out the thread, and also thread it under the needle. We continue to embroider. At the end, to secure the seam, we bring the needle to the wrong side on the other side of the loop, as in a chain stitch

Chicken track or fishbone stitch

This decorative stitch is good for embroidering plant leaves; it seems as if it was specially created for this purpose. You can sew by placing the threads tightly together. Or you can embroider freely and get an openwork leaf.

How to make a “chicken trail” seam: Draw a shape (for example, a leaf). We bring the needle out from the wrong side in the corner of the drawn shape at point A and make a straight stitch B-C (point B is on the central axis, point C is on the edge on the stroke line). Next, we make a D-E stitch (D - from the other edge on the stroke line, E - on the central axis), put the thread under the needle and pull the thread. We fasten the thread by inserting the needle into point F and bringing it out next to point C. We continue to embroider until we fill out the entire form.

French knot

French knot is used in embroidery as an element. They protrude slightly above the surface of the embroidery. Flower centers are often made using a French knot. If you place the knots close to each other, you can get curly hair.

How to embroider a French knot: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. With our left hand we draw the thread around the needle twice. We turn the needle perpendicular to the fabric and stick it in at point B (next to point A), pulling the wrap tightly. We bring the needle to the wrong side, and on the front side we get a knot.

Sheaf seam

This stitch is so named because it truly resembles sheaves of wheat. The “sheaf” seam is easy to make and looks original. He can decorate the napkin.

How to make a “sheaf” seam: Make three straight stitches (1.2 cm long, 0.3 cm apart) Bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A, halfway between the first and second stitch. We wrap the needle and thread twice around three stitches, pulling the thread tightly. To finish the knot, insert the needle into point B.

sheaf seam

Spider seam

Beautiful and original decorative stitch. The number of main stitches should be odd. It is interesting to use threads of different colors in this seam for the main stitches and for the wrapping. If you do not wrap around the entire length of the stitches, you will end up with a sun or a flower. For twisting, it is better to use a blunt needle, or twist with the other side of the needle.

How to make a spider seam: Draw a circle and mark the middle. We make a snowflake with straight stitches. There should be an odd number of rays. We bring the needle with a blunt end out from the wrong side at point A (closer to the center. We twist the rays, bringing the needle under them, then above them, alternating. We fill the base in a spiral outward. Finish the embroidery by stretching the thread to the wrong side.

The stitch is simple, but very effective!

Seam "flooring"

The “flooring” stitch is fun to embroider; it is somewhat similar to the “spider” stitch. It turns out a piece of floating fabric. You can twist two warp threads - you get a petal or leaf for a flower. You can make a large leaf from several warp threads. You can also play with the tension of the wrapping threads - you’ll get different interesting shapes. Interesting to take different colors threads for warp and wrapping.

How to make a “flooring” seam: Place two straight stitches on the fabric, not very far from one another. We pull out the wrapping thread at the beginning of the resulting stitches and pass the needle over the first thread and under the second. We turn the needle and, without touching the fabric, again pass the needle over the first thread and under the second. (The counting is already on the other side). Continue until the warp threads are completely filled.

Coil or rococo knots

For a rococo knot, the thread is wrapped around a needle and a voluminous stitch is obtained. This knot is quite complex in execution, but effective. They can be used to embroider rose petals, furry animal hair or dreadlocks.

How to make “rococo” knots: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We make a stitch B-A (about 0.6 cm) With our left hand we draw the thread around the needle seven times. Holding the wound thread on the needle, push the needle through the winding and the fabric, the knot will slide to point B. Carefully distribute the winding along the entire stitch. To finish the knot, insert the needle into point B.

Decorative mesh

Decorative mesh is good for quickly filling large spaces. Large long stitches fill the entire shape vertically and horizontally. And at the intersection of the threads, small crosses can be made with a contrasting thread or a thread of the same color.

How to embroider a decorative mesh: At the first stage, fill the entire shape with straight vertical stitches from edge to edge at an equal distance from each other. On the second one, we do the same thing, just add horizontal stitches. And at the end, to attach our threads to the fabric, we embroider a cross at each intersection.

Transfer the design to the fabric.

Method 1. If the fabric is thin enough, you can transfer the design with glass. For this, use a backlit table or regular window glass. Glue the design to the glass with tape, place the fabric on top and also glue with tape. Trace the drawing with a pencil or water-soluble marker.

Method 2. You can transfer the design onto thick or dark fabric using carbon paper. We place the fabric on a flat surface, then carbon paper, the colored side to the fabric, then our drawing. We trace the drawing with a ballpoint pen. To prevent the lines from being erased, it is advisable to outline the design on the fabric with a water-soluble marker.

Method 3. We print the design we need on an inkjet printer. Place the fabric on the ironing board, with the design on top, printed side down, and iron it without steam. If the drawing is not bright, you can outline it with a marker. The resulting lines are not erased in this way and also: on the material your drawing will be mirror-like.

Centering the drawing

To find the middle of a rectangle, you need to fold the fabric or paper design in half. Draw a line along the fold line. We do the same horizontally. The intersection of the lines will be the middle.

If the pattern is not rectangular: fold it in both directions, matching the widest and longest parts of the pattern. Draw a pencil along the fold line.

Place the fabric and paper design on the table, matching the horizontal and vertical lines.



Even if your quilt is sewn on sewing machine, you can give it a unique look by making several elements of hand-made decor. In this case we will talk about embroidery stitches. This design of the upper part of the patchwork is quite common. There is even a direction in patchwork that is practically unthinkable without embroidery - crazy quilt.

Before we begin, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that when making decorative seams, or in other words, when embroidering, you should not make fastening knots. In order to start some kind of decorative stitch, you should insert a thread folded in half into the eye of the needle. Make sure that the edge on which there is a loop formed by the fold of the thread is longer. Always perform the first puncture of the fabric from the face of the work, from yourself inward, as if on the wrong side. Immediately, without pushing the needle all the way, bring its tip out at the same point, but towards you. Then pull the needle through and hit the loop at the end of the thread. Pull the thread to the end - you have secured it to the fabric, but without a knot.

If you run out of thread, insert the tip of the needle inward, moving in the opposite direction. Walk its tip between the previous stitches, and then bring the needle to the front side, but so far that this distance exceeds the length of the remaining thread on the needle. Straighten the product and the tip of the thread will go inward. There is no need to execute the final node. This option of completion is also possible - first quiltuzel, then pull the needle through as described above. When bringing the needle to the surface of the quilt, you need to tighten not only the product, but also the thread itself, so that your knot goes inward.



The seam "scalloped"- was mentioned by us as connecting, but using some liberties, we can decorate our products with it. We said that this seam is made along the edge of the overlay and connects it to the background. The same seam can be done not along the edge and without the presence of appliqué. You can make both straight and wavy lines with it. With its help, you can embroider any shapes, both geometric and floral, and the height of the stitches can be different along the line you are making. You can make two lines side by side, but in different colors.



There are many options, it is even possible double or triple scalloped seam.

The photo shows a double design - a regular scalloped one, but at a certain stage we enter the needle twice into the same point of the fabric. Triple - according to the same system, entering a certain point 3 times and performing 2 inclined stitches in different sides and between them there is one in the center.

Using a scalloped stitch, you can create small motifs by moving in a circle and returning to the center each time. If you want larger motifs with a free center, they can be made in a regular scalloped pattern, or double or triple.

If you perform only half a circle, and then the remaining half circle, but with an offset, you can get an interesting wavy line of decor. In the first photo you can see something similar.


And one more interesting option this seam - scalloped with lintel.

It is more convenient to do it from left to right:

1. Inject the needle into point 1, retreating slightly to the right and up, stick it into point 2 and bring it towards you in point 3. The needle is strictly vertical and pointing downwards. The working thread should be under the needle. We stretch the needle and thread, making sure that the thread fits tightly to the fabric.

2. Move 1-2 mm to the right and enter point 4 and exit at point 5. The needle is strictly vertical, but its nose is already directed upward. Pull the needle, and then the thread, but just enough to get the needle into the jumper loop formed at the bottom of the seam. This should be done by pointing the needle from top to bottom.

And this seam also has options. It may look like triangular teeth if there are punctures in the t.t. 2-3 should be performed not vertically, but obliquely. Then lengthen the jumper to approximately 5mm, and so on. 2 and 5 remain the same “good neighbors”. However it's the same double scalloped seam, but executed somewhat differently.

The seam "Tambour"- performed quite simply, from right to left.

1. Fasten the thread in point 1

2. Immediately next to it we pierce the fabric in point 2 and remove the needle moving forward in point 3. The working thread should pass under the needle. We stretch the needle, followed by the thread.

2. Repeat point 2 many times, making sure that each point 2 falls inside the loop formed by the working thread.

If you increase the distance between the t.t. 1 and 2, then we get . It is much more convenient to do it from top to bottom. The needle is always directed diagonally from the upper right corner to the lower left. It is important to ensure that each puncture in point 4 falls inside the loop formed by the working thread. If you reduce the distance between the t.t. 1 and 3 to a minimum, we get a dense volumetric roller.

If a regular chain stitch is performed by laying the needle along an inclined line, alternating its movements up and down, we get "zigzag tambour" the seam. In the picture, the needle seems to be entering the thread in point 4, but let's remember that we have a double thread. When sticking a needle into point 4 you need to get between the threads. This will secure the position of the seam at the corners.

Some kind of zigzag, but more like a twig with leaves, can be obtained by doing "Looped" the seam. It is performed either from top to bottom or from bottom to top. It’s more convenient for me to do it from below, but the diagram is directed differently, so according to the diagram it’s done like this:

1. Fasten the thread in point 1

2. Pierce the fabric away from you in point 2 and back out into point 3, but so that the working thread passes under the needle. Pull the needle and thread all the way through. You have formed a “leaf”.

3.Retreat downwards and make punctures in the t.t. 4 and 5, directing the needle upward. Pull the needle and thread all the way through.

4.Now all movements are repeated from point 2, but in a mirror image. Points 5 and 6 correspond to points 1 and 2. And t.t. 3 and 4 correspond to t.t. 7 and 8.

5. Exact repetition of points 2-4. It is important to remember that we are moving from top to bottom, which means we must hold the work in our hands so that we go in the right direction.

It's the same seam, but "Looped in a circle", may look like in the picture, but if you make only 3 petals, you get a trefoil, and if you make 4 in the form of a cross, you get a flower, for example, lilac. The letters “a” and “b” indicate the procedure. Under “c” it is shown how you can beat the standard version by making 3 attachments in a row in the form of a tassel. And finally, “g” - strengthening the center. If you change the color of the thread, the flower will have a spectacular center.

The seam "Herringbone"- is actually a variant of the open chain stitch. Only the herringbone has one fastening and it is in the center. This makes it possible to change direction while embroidering. So, in order:

1. Fasten the thread in point 1

2. Moving but inclined, perform movement 2-3. We make sure that the slave. the thread passed under the needle. Pull out the needle, and behind it the thread.

3. Stepping back to the right, but at the level of t.3, perform movement 4-5. Again, the thread is under the needle. Stretch everything out.

Your Christmas tree can be made fluffier by extending it in each direction. To do this, step 6 needs to be done not on the left, but on the right (as you did movement 3-4, but one level lower). And for symmetry to the left, you need to do the same number of repetitions of the 5-6 movement described in point 3.

When we talk about embroidery, the first thing that comes to mind is cross stitch. But there are a huge number of other decorative stitches and embroidery techniques in the world. Decorative seams do not mean complicated ones. It is often easier to embroider with them than with a cross. Many hand-made decorative seams do not require such scrupulous calculations as a cross and “forgive” the mistakes of inexperienced fingers. There is one more plus. With simple stitches you can do embroidery not on canvas, but on regular fabric. Embroider directly on the corner of the tablecloth, or decorate jeans with decorative stitches. There are many options! And no outline. You can even make spectacular embroideries using a “forward needle” stitch. How much easier can it be? What can we say about the potential of a chain stitch or “French knots”.

The simple stitches that we are going to talk about will become excellent embroidery material for beginning needlewomen.

Straight stitch.

This is the most basic stitch. You can use it to embroider anything. It can be laid in any direction, of any length.

Snowflake with straight stitches. Draw a circle and mark the middle. We mark the circle with the required number of petal points. We bring the needle out from the center and make stitches, all the time returning the needle to the center. V-A; S-A; D-A and so on.

Seam "forward needle"

Perhaps the most famous simplest seam. To decorate it, you can change the length of the stitches: for example, 2 short, 1 long, etc.

Surface

Satin stitch is a very beautiful independent embroidery. It was especially widespread in the middle of the last century. Perhaps someone at home still has their grandmother’s satin stitch embroidery – pillowcases, napkins. You can use the satin stitch as an element for filling. The stitches in this technique are placed neatly parallel to each other along the entire shape that needs to be filled.

How to sew with satin stitch: First, draw the desired shape on the fabric. We start from the edge of the drawing. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick it in at point B, and then we bring it out to the face at point C, next to point A. We continue to embroider tightly, placing stitches one next to the other.

Back stitch or stitch

The backstitch with a needle is often used: it is used to embroider stems, inscriptions, and make an outline (for example, in cross stitch). Sew by hand when you need to sew two parts together tightly.

How to sew with a back stitch: Draw a line on the fabric. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick it in at point B, it is located behind point A. And then we bring it out to the face at point C, it is in front of point A. We make the next stitch by sticking the needle into point A and bring it out in front of point C.

Stem seam

Like the backstitch stitch, stem stitch embroidery is used for stems, inscriptions, and outline designs.

How to sew with a stem stitch: Draw a line on the fabric. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A at the beginning of the line. We make stitch B-C, point C is in the middle between A and B. The following stitches: D - B, E - Di.etc. The thread should always remain on one side when making stitches. When bending the line, the stitches may fall apart; to prevent this from happening, the stitches can be made smaller.

What does this line look like? finished product can be seen, for example, on It is completely made with this seam.

Fern seam

Decorative seam. The fern stitch looks like a stem with leaves. To make the design look more natural, you can change the angle and length of the leaves.

How to sew with a fern stitch: Let's draw a curved line. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A at some distance from the beginning of the line. We insert the needle at point B (the beginning of the line)) and bring it to the face at point C (on the side of the intended line), and pull out the thread. Making stitch A -D (pointD is on the other side of the intended line), pull out the thread. Next we make a stitch A – E along the line. It turns out to be a stem with branches.

Chain stitch

One of the most common and beautiful decorative seams. The small, children's machine "Grasshopper" sews with this seam. People begin to embroider with chain stitch as early as kindergarten; for some reason it is considered to be very simple. They can be used to sew along a line, outline a design, embroider an inscription, and even fill out a form.

How to sew with a chain stitch: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle in at point B (next to point A) and bring it out to the face at point C, but do not pull the thread until we pass it under the formed loop. Next, we make the next loop: by inserting the needle next to point C (inside the previous loop) and bringing it out at point E. Again we thread it through the resulting loop, etc. To finish the seam, insert a needle into the pointF and bring the thread to the wrong side.

Completely made with chain stitch.

Loop stitch or edge stitch

This seam is used to process the edges of the products and sew them into buttonholes by hand. It looks very nice and is easy to make. Can be used as a decorative stitch.

How to sew with a buttonhole stitch: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle in at point B and bring it out to the face at point C, but do not pull the thread through until we pass it under the needle. We continue to place stitches from left to right. When the row is completed, stick the needle into the pointD is just beyond the loop. Try to place stitches evenly spaced apart.

You can alternate the length of the stitch legs - it will turn out beautifully.

You can read more about . There are options and various decorations for this seam.

Tambour loop (flower)

The chain stitch is a variation of the chain stitch in which each loop in the chain is embroidered separately. If you embroider several chain stitches around the central point, you will get a flower. The leaf will come out of a separate chain loop

How to embroider with chain stitch: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle in at point B (next to point A) and bring it out to the face at point C, but do not pull the thread until we pass it under the formed loop. Next, insert the needle into the pointD, thereby closing the petal-loop, and draw it out at point A. We continue to make petals in a circle.

Open decorative loop or U-loop or half-loop

This loop is similar to a tambour loop, but with an open end. With an open decorative loop you can embroider petals on a flower, or rays of the sun.

How to embroider with an open decorative loop: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. We stick the needle in at point B (away from point A) and bring it out onto the face at point C, put the thread under the needle and pull it out. Next, insert the needle into the pointD, thereby securing the thread. Stitch C-D can be made in different lengths.

Velvet seam, or “goat”

Decorative velvet stitch, similar to a series of crosses located close to each other. Performed along two parallel lines.

How to make a velvet seam: Draw two parallel lines. We work from left to right. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A at the beginning of the intended line of the top line. Make a backstitch on the bottom line B - C, then a backstitch on the top lineD-E etc.

Herringbone seam

The herringbone stitch is very decorative. It's a pleasure to embroider and easy to make. You can sew evenly and neatly, then you will get a strict geometric pattern. You can also vary the inclination and length of the stitches, then the pattern will come out more natural.

How to sew a herringbone seam: Let's draw a line on the fabric. We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A at the beginning of the intended line. We insert the needle at point B (on the side of point A)) and bring it to the face at point C (in front along the intended line), pull out the thread, having first threaded it under the needle. The result is a half-loop. Making a stitchD - E (pointD is on the other side of the intended line), pull out the thread, also passing it under the needle. We continue to embroider. At the end, to secure the seam, we bring the needle to the wrong side on the other side of the loop, as in a chain stitch.

Chicken track or fishbone stitch

This decorative stitch is good for embroidering plant leaves; it seems as if it was specially created for this purpose. You can sew by placing the threads tightly together. Or you can embroider freely and get an openwork leaf.

How to make a chicken trail seam: Let's draw a shape (for example, a leaf). We bring the needle out from the wrong side in the corner of the drawn shape at point A and make a straight stitch B-C (point B is on the central axis, point C is on the edge on the stroke line). Next, we make a D-E stitch (D – from the other edge on the stroke line, E – on the central axis), put the thread under the needle and pull the thread. We fasten the thread by inserting the needle into point F and bringing it out next to point C. We continue to embroider until we fill out the entire form.

French knot

French knot is used in embroidery as an element. They protrude slightly above the surface of the embroidery. Flower centers are often made using a French knot. If you place the knots close to each other, you can get curly hair.

How to embroider a French knot: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. With our left hand we draw the thread around the needle twice. We turn the needle perpendicular to the fabric and stick it in at point B (next to point A), pulling the wrap tightly. We bring the needle to the wrong side, and on the front side we get a knot.

Sheaf seam

This stitch is so named because it truly resembles sheaves of wheat. The “sheaf” seam is easy to make and looks original. He can decorate the napkin.

How to make a sheaf seam: We make three straight stitches (length 1.2 cm, gap 0.3 cm) We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A, in the middle between the first and second stitch. We wrap the needle and thread twice around three stitches, pulling the thread tightly. To finish the knot, insert the needle into point B.

sheaf seam

Spider seam

Beautiful and original decorative stitch. The number of main stitches should be odd. It is interesting to use threads of different colors in this seam for the main stitches and for the wrapping. If you do not wrap around the entire length of the stitches, you will end up with a sun or a flower. For twisting, it is better to use a blunt needle, or twist with the other side of the needle.

How to make a spider stitch: Draw a circle and mark the middle. We make a snowflake with straight stitches. There should be an odd number of rays. We bring the needle with a blunt end out from the wrong side at point A (closer to the center. We twist the rays, bringing the needle under them, then above them, alternating. We fill the base in a spiral outward. Finish the embroidery by stretching the thread to the wrong side.

Seam "flooring"

The “flooring” stitch is fun to embroider; it is somewhat similar to the “spider” stitch. It turns out a piece of floating fabric. You can twist two warp threads - you get a petal or leaf for a flower. You can make a large leaf from several warp threads. You can also play with the tension of the wrapping threads - you’ll get different interesting shapes. It is interesting to take different colors of threads for the warp and wrapping.

How to make a flooring seam: We lay two straight stitches on the fabric, not very far from one another. We pull out the wrapping thread at the beginning of the resulting stitches and pass the needle over the first thread and under the second. We turn the needle and, without touching the fabric, again pass the needle over the first thread and under the second. (The counting is already on the other side). Continue until the warp threads are completely filled.

Coil or rococo knots

For a rococo knot, the thread is wrapped around a needle and a voluminous stitch is obtained. This knot is quite complex in execution, but effective. They can be used to embroider rose petals, furry animal hair or dreadlocks.

How to make rococo knots: We bring the needle out from the wrong side at point A. Make a stitch B-A (about 0.6 cm) With your left hand we draw the thread around the needle seven times. Holding the wound thread on the needle, push the needle through the winding and the fabric, the knot will slide to point B. Carefully distribute the winding along the entire stitch. To finish the knot, insert the needle into point B.

Decorative mesh

Decorative mesh is good for quickly filling large spaces. Large long stitches fill the entire shape vertically and horizontally. And at the intersection of the threads, small crosses can be made with a contrasting thread or a thread of the same color.

How to embroider a decorative mesh: At the first stage, we fill the entire form with straight vertical stitches from edge to edge at an equal distance from each other. On the second one, we do the same thing, just add horizontal stitches. And at the end, to attach our threads to the fabric, we embroider a cross at each intersection.

Transfer the design to the fabric.

Method 1. If the fabric is thin enough, you can transfer the pattern glazing. For this, use a backlit table or regular window glass. Glue the design to the glass with tape, place the fabric on top and also glue with tape. Trace the drawing with a pencil or water-soluble marker.

Method 2. You can transfer the design onto thick or dark fabric using carbon paper. We place the fabric on a flat surface, then carbon paper, the colored side to the fabric, then our drawing. We trace the drawing with a ballpoint pen. To prevent the lines from being erased, it is advisable to outline the design on the fabric with a water-soluble marker.

Method 3. We print the design we need on an inkjet printer. Place the fabric on the ironing board, with the design on top, printed side down, and iron it without steam. If the drawing is not bright, you can outline it with a marker. The resulting lines are not erased in this way and also: on the material your drawing will be mirror-like.

Centering the drawing

To find the middle of a rectangle, you need to fold the fabric or paper design in half. Draw a line along the fold line. We do the same horizontally. The intersection of the lines will be the middle.

If the pattern is not rectangular: fold it in both directions, matching the widest and longest parts of the pattern. Draw a pencil along the fold line.

Place the fabric and paper design on the table, matching the horizontal and vertical lines.

Beginnings and endings

Materials used from the book by Nicholas Christin “Designer Embroidery. 65 new ideas for decorating your home"