The undershirt was an important part of women's Russian folk clothes. This part of the costume was given Special attention. It was sewn from homespun linen.
The entire opening of the edge of the shirt: sleeves, hem, neck - was necessarily decorated with embroidery. This was done not so much for the sake of beauty, but for protection from dark forces. Additional seams near the holes in the shirt were supposed to enhance this protection. In very ancient times, mother's hair was always sewn into the embroidery of a child's shirt as a talisman. Actually, the art of Russian culture once began with this hair sewn into children's clothes. folk embroidery. Each detail of the ornament had its own meaning. Shirts for girls and boys, for children of different ages embroidered differently.
Russian women's shirt for a doll
The cut of this shirt is not entirely authentic. In fact, everything was much simpler. However, in order for the Russian folk costume It fit the doll well, it would be better to sew a shirt with set-in sleeves. The folk shirt was made floor-length to completely cover the legs. The doll's shirt is slightly shortened so that it can be combined not only with a Russian sundress, but also with long skirts.
By changing the length and choosing a different fabric, you can use the same pattern to sew a blouse or dress for a doll.
To work you will need thin white cotton or linen fabric, white decorative elastic with ruffle, thread, 4 small transparent buttons.
The pattern is given for the Paola Reina doll 32 cm.
All parts are cut out with 0.5 cm seam allowances.
It is more convenient to do embroidery on the sleeves in advance. To prevent the fabric from fraying during embroidery, overcast the edges of the sleeves separately. It is more convenient to embroider the neckline on the finished product.
1. Sew and overcast the shoulder seams.
2. On the front side of the neckline, sew the elastic with a wide zigzag, ruffle upwards. There is no need to tighten the elastic for the neckline.
3. On the bottom of the sleeves, use a wide, frequent zigzag to stitch the elastic to the front side, ruffle down. To make the sleeve gathered at the bottom, the elastic should be slightly pulled.
4. Fold the sleeve with the armhole right side inward and baste. Sew and overcast the edge of the seam. Sew on the second sleeve.
5. Fold the shirt right side inward. Pin the side seam and sleeve seam. Sew the sleeve and side seam with one stitch. Finish the cut.
Sew the second side seam.
6. Hem the hem of the shirt.
6. Overcast, turn and topstitch the seams on the back.
7. Punch through 4 loops. Sew on the buttons.
An old book that came into my hands, dedicated to organizing not just entertaining, but also educational and developmental children's leisure, attracted my attention with a small section on sewing clothes for dolls. The author, not without reason, believes that any needlewoman will benefit from acquiring the skills of independent cutting and sewing, even if these skills are honed on dolls.
The publication, published in 1870, offers simple patterns clothes for dolls with detailed description sewing models of corsets, pantaloons, shirts and dresses that were fashionable at that time.
Perhaps the author of the book about children's leisure It would seem strange that in the 21st century not only children, but also adults would be interested in sewing clothes for dolls. But now many needlewomen who make all kinds of designer dolls very carefully think through and then sew with their own hands various parts of the doll’s wardrobe...
Let's see how easy it is to sew a shirt for a doll: this pattern is so versatile that you can also make dresses based on it various styles, and sundresses. You just need to change the shape of the neckline, add a belt at the waist, gather the sleeves or sew a frill to the hem and you will get a completely different outfit!
Shirt for a doll
We transfer the pattern suggested just below onto a sheet of paper, cut it out, pin it to a piece of fabric and trace it with chalk, leaving small seam allowances (about 3-5 mm). To immediately get two identical shirt parts, the flap must first be folded in half, then in half again. Once the pattern has been transferred and cut, the fabric is unrolled to create two pieces: the front and back of the shirt. A small cut is made on the front along the midline so that the shirt can be easily put on the doll.
Both pieces are folded right sides inward and basted along the side seams. Then fold the bottom of the hem, iron it and carefully hem it. After this, the shirt is sewn along the shoulder seams and the edges of the sleeves are processed in the same way as the hem.
If available sewing machine, That side seams stitched on it or sewn manually with a machine seam. After this, they begin to process the neckline: a small strip of fabric is folded in half along the long side, stitched or ironed. The strip is then sewn to the neckline, starting from one side of the slit on the front of the shirt and finishing on the opposite side of the slit. The edges of the cut are folded inside out and processed with an overcast or decorative seam.
You can simplify the task of processing the neckline, but to do this you will have to make not identical parts of the shirt, but two different ones: on the front part the neck line is drawn a little deeper, and on the back it is left the same as on the original pattern. The front and back parts are sewn together as described above, and the neckline is treated with one strip, which is then ironed inward.
On the finished shirt, the collar and sleeves are decorated with lace, frills, small buttons, embroidery and other decorative elements.
A corset for a doll is also not a very complicated detail, but it looks very stylish if you choose beautiful fabric and decorative elements. The corset is usually made from thick fabric so that this piece of clothing can keep its shape well.
The proposed clothing patterns for dolls are transferred to paper, after which the fabric is folded in half and the details of the front, back and wedges are cut out of it.
On the front part of the corset, the cutouts marked with crosses are first sewn together, a braid is sewn in the middle of the part from the wrong side, after which each half of the back parts is sewn to the front part to the place where a smooth cutout for the wedges is made (i.e. connecting the parts at points 1 and 2). The last stage of working with the front part is sewing in the wedges.
All seams are carefully smoothed out and decorated with narrow braid, and the rest of the corset is trimmed with the same braid. Then the border for processing the shoulders is cut out and the corresponding parts are processed.
At some distance from the edges of the back parts, the lines shown in the general drawing of the corset with a dotted line are laid, overhead loops are cut and sewn at an equal distance from each other - their number will depend on the size of the corset. To sew buttons correctly, fold both back pieces and stick pins into the loops to accurately mark where the buttons will be sewn on.
On last stage the work sews buttons onto the front part and onto each wedge - previously this was practiced in order to fasten pantaloons and skirts to the corset. Then a whalebone is inserted under the central braid and between both stitches on the back piece; the same whalebone, but narrower, is also inserted into each seam of the front part between the fabric and the decorative braid. A strip is sewn onto the back part from the wrong side directly behind the buttons and loops and with its help another whalebone is fixed.
Because In the 19th century, whalebone was very popular and was sold in all fabric and accessories stores; the author of the book suggested using this particular material for a doll’s corset. Nowadays, you can buy whalebone, but with some difficulties, so when making clothes for dolls, you can use plastic cable ties with cut ends, strips cut from plastic bottles or school plastic rulers.
In one of our earlier publications we already told how sew women's pantaloons and gave them a pattern, now let's start making doll pantaloons.
The simplest pantaloons are sewn like a shirt, folding the fabric in four, transferring the pattern onto it and cutting out the front and back parts at the same time. The point on the pattern, marked with a cross, falls on the fold of the fabric. Both parts are first sewn along the side seams, then along the internal ones.
The resulting pantaloons are sewn along the remaining seams and work begins on the waist and bottom. The fabric along the waistline is folded inward and stitched, leaving a small space so that an elastic band or ribbon can be inserted, and the bottom of the legs is folded, ironed and hemmed.
Lace, decorative braid, ribbons, etc. are used to decorate pantaloons.
And finally - more complex model clothes: a dress for a doll, consisting of a long sloped skirt and a blouse with sleeves. When cutting, fold the fabric in half and transfer the pattern, leaving a small distance for the seams. The lining details are cut out in the same way if you plan to sew the dress on lining material.
The pattern below contains the following details:
- 1 - half of the back;
- 2 - half front;
- 3 - upper part of the sleeve;
- 4 - lower part of the sleeve;
- 5-8 - skirt details.
The elements marked with a dotted line on the pattern (1, 5 and 8) are folded parts. Those. these parts of the dress are cut in such a way that the dotted line falls on the fold line of the fabric and as a result of cutting, one whole piece would be obtained; All other elements (2, 3, 4, 6, 7) should be made of two pieces from fabric folded in half.
The front and back parts are sewn together along the shoulder seams, i.e. along the segments marked by points 1 and 2, then along the side seams: from point 3 to point 4 of both parts. The collar and all edges of the blouse are treated with decorative braid, and in front, along the center line, several loops and beautiful buttons are sewn at an equal distance from each other.
The sleeve halves are sewn together, focusing on the marks, i.e. the edge with marks 1, 2 of the lower part of the sleeve is sewn to points 1, 2 of the upper part; points 3,4 of one part - with points 3,4 of the second part. Having turned the finished sleeve right side out, it is carefully sewn into the armhole of the blouse, focusing on the marks for sleeves 2 and 4 and the same marks for the details of the front and back of the blouse.
The lower part of the sleeve, located at the hands, is treated with braid or decorative tape.
When sewing a skirt, the side between points 1 and 2 of part 8 is connected to the same points of part 7. In the same way, focusing on the number, you need to sew the other edges of the skirt together. Please note that when joining parts 5 and 6, the upper part of the edges is not sewn together, but a fold is placed on part 6, extending from the point marked with a cross. On the finished skirt, the edge of the hem is folded and hemmed, then the blouse and skirt are sewn together and the finished dress is decorated with beads, ribbons, lace, and embroidery. To give the product a finished look, you can cut out beautiful belt from fabric of the same or contrasting color and mask the seam connecting both parts.
1. First, I make a pattern according to the size of my hare (height - 38 cm).
2. I cut out the pattern pieces.
3. I transfer the pattern onto fabric.
4. Cut out the pattern pieces from the fabric, not forgetting the seam allowances. In my case, I left 2mm, since the fabric does not fray, but it is better to leave allowances of 5 mm at the edges of each part, and 10 -15 mm at the bottom of the product. You can overcast the parts around the edges first, especially if you are using linen.
5. Sew the shoulder seams. You can sew by hand or by machine. The main thing is to ensure that when sewing, the front part of the fabric is connected to the front part, and the back part to the back part. Difficulty may arise when sewing plain fabric. In this case, for convenience, you can mark the inside of the parts.
6. I smooth out the seams and unfold the shirt so that it is convenient to sew on the sleeves
7. I sew the sleeves into the armholes.
8. I sew the side seams and sleeves.
9. I sew the details of the collar and cuffs.
10. I try on a shirt on my hare and see if all the sizes match, or if something needs to be adjusted. I sew on the collar and fold the cuffs overlapping and fasten them.
11. I sew on the cuffs and smooth out the seams.
12. The collar can be sewn like this in a simple way like mine, or you can use a facing to process the neckline, which is sewn over the collar, then folded back and secured. Everyone chooses sewing methods for themselves. Sometimes it depends on the tasks you set for yourself in the sewing process.
13. The shirt is almost ready, all that remains is to sew on the buttons.
14. I sew buttons on the cuffs and on the front placket of the shirt.
Hello, dear needlewomen!!!
I announce the start of a new joint project :)
We start with the underdress (shirt)
Dress/shirt pattern:
You can also download the pattern in pdf to print it immediately; when printing, select 100% scale or “real size”:
Let's move on to the master class :)
1. Transfer the pattern to the wrong side of the fabric using a washable marker or a regular pencil. The warp thread runs along the center line of the front, back, sleeves and facing. Seam allowances – 0.6 – 0.7 cm, along the bottom of the sleeve – 1 cm. For the “facing” part, we do not make an allowance along the bottom edge of the part:
2. Stitch the side sections of the back, front and bottom edge of the facing:
3. Sew decorative ribbon to the sleeves. Then overcast the side seams and the bottom edge of the sleeves (I do this in one stitch). Tip: Test your tape first for paint fastness. I didn’t do this, and then a “pleasant” surprise awaited me - it turned out that the tape was fading.
4. Stitch and overcast the shoulder seams:
5. Place a gathering stitch along the edges of the sleeves and gather them slightly, do not tie any knots so that you can adjust the gathering when sewing the sleeve into the armhole:
6. Pin and stitch the sleeves into the armholes (right sides together) and stitch. We bend the allowances onto the sleeve:
This is what it looks like from the front side, since I use a washable marker, I don’t smooth out the seams during the process, since the marker won’t wash off later, I just smooth them out with my fingers :)
7. Let’s move on to processing the neckline: attach the facing to the neck line, align the back and facing parts along the line of the placket and sew them (our facing is shorter than the neck line by the width of the placket):
8. Now bend the bar and align the facing with the neckline along the control marks:
9. We sew a line along the neckline, then cut off the allowances close to the edge and make notches on the bends:
10. Fold the facing to the wrong side and turn the corners well, this is what it looks like from the front side:
11. Sew the side seam and sleeve seam in one line, straighten the seam allowances different sides:
12. Fold the sleeve allowance to the wrong side and insert a thin elastic band (I have 2 layers of elastic thread), carefully sew the stitch, trying not to catch the elastic and leaving a small hole on the side. Then we put the sleeve on the doll’s arm and tighten the elastic band around the circumference of the wrist, tie the elastic band and cut off the excess (the tails of the elastic knots go into the remaining small hole).
13. Baste and sew decorative tape along the bottom edge of the dress:
A simple shirt of a men's cut is a thing for all times. But it is simple only in appearance. Even an adult shirt is quite painstaking to sew. And what if we're talking about about a doll measuring 25-30 centimeters... This is an attraction for real masochists. Welcome!
The first thing you need to do is find the right fabric. Silk is ideal, because unlike other thin fabrics, silk, even very thin, can be quite dense. At random, ordering one by one the entire assortment of the store for batik, I figured out the suitable fabric - crepe satin. But the weight per meter is not as in the link, but up to thirty grams. It just seems to be out of stock right now.
Poplin is more or less suitable. Better mixed - silk and cotton. Thick cambric - cotton and silk mixed in half is also better. Crepe de Chine and chiffon are falling mercilessly. I won’t say anything about other fabrics, I don’t know.
So we bought the fabric. Now it needs to be starched. Either in a starch solution or using a starch spray. I took regular corn and diluted a little more than a teaspoon per liter - one and a half water. Everything is by eye and at will. The more starch, the harder the fabric and in some sense easier to work with. But up to a certain limit, of course. And don’t forget that rinsing out starch is not so easy, and the more there is in the fabric, the more difficult it will be.
We lay out the starched fabric evenly and dry it with an iron. The fabric becomes rigid, does not creep in different directions and frays less during the sewing process.
Cutting out the details. I do everything by eye. For those who like numbers... the width of the backrest at the shoulder is equal to the width of the shoulders. Straight across the entire width from the most prominent point of the right shoulder to the left. After part of the fabric goes to the seam, the desired value will be obtained.
Our back is two-part. The lower part is wider than the upper part with a margin for the fold. The upper part is in two copies. I'm sorry, I don't remember what this part is called correctly. Free length. The armhole (sleeve neckline) is about half a centimeter deep (doll 25 cm) and one and a half to two in height. Don’t forget to leave a hem allowance at the front pieces - two widths of the strip on each side.
Now let's create a fold on the back. In the center. Like this.
Then we sew the lower part with the upper ones, placing the lower one between the two upper ones like this
Attach, turn and iron
Now we prepare the front parts. We cut them with extra hem. We fold the fabric in two layers and iron it. We baste, we stitch. If you want a decorative strip, then fold one part outward and the other inside out.
Now let’s stitch together the details along the shoulder. I process the neck, so it’s easier to work with it later, otherwise it crumbles a lot despite all the precautions. I process it by hand. Using a machine is risky, the needle will go wrong and everything will be ruined - the fabric, although dense, is still very thin and when you have only half a centimeter to maneuver, it’s quite easy to ruin everything.
Collar queue
Ideally, the collar has a rather complex cut. But in our case, we will simplify the story by reducing it to a straight line.
To calculate its length, we lay the neck out on a plane like this and measure the length.
We cut two narrow pieces of the required length plus seams. Put at least four millimeters on the seams, otherwise the whole thing will crawl when you turn it inside out. You can reserve the width (the shortest side of the rectangle) - you can always reduce it.
We sew together two parts along the edges with a corner like this. Then we cut off the corners themselves, so after turning them inside out the corner will be neater.
The design should look like this. Along the way, we double-check the length to see if it matches the neckline.
Now we cut out the collar itself. To make the design lighter and more elegant, we get rid of the top seam by cutting out a collar from a part bent in half
We sew the collar together like this
To turn the parts inside out, you can use a cotton swab with a sharp tip (I have one in the photo above) and something like this with a ball at the end. Well, or something else that is not spicy. The sharp one immediately tears the thin silk. Toothpicks are also not suitable for this reason.
Now we insert the collar into the bar. This way
We baste and turn it out tentatively. Yes, be sure to leave a large allowance at the bottom. If you grab the collar by the very edge, it will crawl again later, it’s been checked. Therefore, place it deeper in the bar
Let's collaborate. We process the edge by hand. This is for durability. Of course it won't be visible inside. But finishing the edge increases the practicality of the item.
Now we turn it inside out, iron it and make a hem along the entire perimeter of the bar. It's better to pre-bait. This will take less time than the shamanic tricks of folding a thin edge by hand
We sew the collar onto live thread. Then we sew the collar on both sides with a hidden seam. You probably won't be able to handle this size on a typewriter either.
Now it's the turn of the sleeves.
We cut the sleeve again according to the width, which is determined by laying out the armhole in a straight line. If a little bit has been cut off, we adjust it by matching the top line of the sleeve and the armhole line and trying it on. Sleeve length is at your discretion. If you want a longer sleeve so that there is an overlap above the cuff, then add about a centimeter to the length of the arm up to the wrist.
We will have a cutout from the cuff and we will process this part in advance. Here, in a straight line, it’s not difficult. Can also be done by typewriter
I forgot to film cutting out and sewing the cuff, but it’s all simple. When turned inside out and ironed, the cuff looks like this:
Now we will place the sleeve into the cuff and sweep it away. Then, just like the collar, we sew it on both sides with a hidden seam. With the thinnest thread, the thinnest needle. Better than beaded ones.
Now we attach the sleeves to the armhole. I do this on my hands. Because the shoulder width is small and the machine foot does not fit there. So we sew by hand and process by hand
But the side seam can be stitched and processed by machine
Now cut out the bottom of the shirt to the desired length and shape. And carefully iron the hem.
It still won’t work out perfectly neatly, so we, already in relation to the ironed edge, trim the hem with nail scissors
And cutting out a thin strip glue web, carefully glue it in steam mode. Do not cut out the web with a margin of width, otherwise there will be a sloppy strip along the gluing contour.
We try on the shirt and mark the places for the buttons. In principle, you can make magnets, but white fabric requires frequent washing, and since magnets are not glued, they will still fall off sooner or later. With aggressive washing, rather early.
That’s why we use beads as buttons.
And we make the loops this way. I made a pair for example using a contrasting thread and large size. Otherwise you won't be able to take a photo. In general, everything is simple. One-ply thread, better synthetic, it is stronger. Loop, two knots on the sides (overlapping) and then pass the thread inside to the next loop
Now the shirt needs to be rinsed thoroughly to wash out the starch and shape it when wet.
Here's another way of simulating buttons that I liked. There is such silver fittings for jewelry. It's shaped like a bead, only the hole is large.
If you hit it with a hammer, it turns out to be such a small thing. Sewn on with monofilament, it coolly imitates buttons on small things
Here is a photo of the shirt (different) on the arm for scale. Mimimi)))
It takes a lot of time. Seven hours in person. Well, maybe a twentieth faster, but my track record is less so far))
