Important positive side jumpsuit is that there is no need to select the top or bottom of the wardrobe, everything is connected together. At first, overalls were made in America for pilots as a uniform. Then women with children liked this form of clothing. Stores began selling overalls for boys. After some time, they appeared in the wardrobes of women and girls.
Jumpsuit can be worn anywhere
You can wear it for a walk, in the office, on a date, even to a celebration. For every occasion, you can choose a stylish option.
Alessandra Ambrosio
For example, a denim jumpsuit can be worn for a walk or to go shopping in it.
Gigi Hadid
A red jumpsuit with trousers made in a classic style can be purchased for dinner at a restaurant.
Complete the “ensemble” with stiletto heels high heels and add stylish decorations.
How to wear a jumpsuit correctly:
- — Choose a jumpsuit model that is sized so that it does not hang on your figure or cut into your body.
- — If a girl has wide shoulders and narrow hips, then it is better to wear a jumpsuit without straps and with wide trousers. A belt will help accentuate the waist.
- — Women with large figures should purchase the option with wide trousers.
- — When it’s cool outside, the overalls are complemented with a cardigan, midi-coat, trench coat, but you don’t need to button up such wardrobe items.
- — For the evening, choose the option with a low back neckline.
- — To create an emphasis on the waist, you need to gird yourself.
What not to do
To look luxurious in a jumpsuit, you should follow some rules:
- — a model with narrow trousers should not be worn with flat-soled shoes;
- - do not add anything unnecessary to the “ensemble” so that the image does not turn out to be multi-layered (overloaded);
- — the drawing, if any, should not be large;
- — accessories can be in the same tone as the overalls.
Suitable for the event
The main thing is not to forget that the model must correspond to the event you are going to.
If the jumpsuit is made in a free style (laces, fringe), long sleeves, a rough model, then it will fit into your everyday wardrobe.
And when going out in the evening, for example, going to a restaurant, they wear a plain one, which can be complemented with large jewelry. Accessories can be added to a monochromatic outfit without fear of ruining it.
Frame Fall 2017 Ready collection
A progressive and comfortable trend for 2017 that should be in everyone’s wardrobe modern girl, is a denim jumpsuit. Moreover, the fashion trends of the season allow you to choose among a variety of styles, shades, lengths and, of course, combinations that you can create based on this functional must-have. However, with some models of overalls you need to be very careful, because it’s easy to make a mistake and instead of a stylish street look, create a sloppy and ridiculous one. So here's a guide to choosing and combining the best jumpsuit styles this year.
How to Wear a Denim Overalls
The jumpsuit is not only functional, but also a universal item. On the basis of overalls you can create a mass interesting images, just by adding a stylish “top”.
Favorite sweatshirt
The most comfortable and practical look you can create using a traditional jumpsuit loose fit, easy to achieve with a soft sweatshirt. The only condition is the width of the “top”: the sweatshirt should not be too large and voluminous.
Slim pullover
Ideal for cool weather. The standard style of overalls with straps is best combined with this top. Stylish and nothing extra.
Hot weather option
In summer the most the best things Short-sleeved T-shirts and tank tops will be combined with overalls. In our opinion, T-shirts look even more interesting and fresh due to the fact that both they and the overalls leave the arms completely open.
The classic and familiar combination of a T-shirt and overalls can be diluted bright accessories and stylish shoes to give the look the missing “zest”.
One strap
The look with a one-shoulder jumpsuit is rebellious and relaxed, but no less stylish. For example, like summer look Beyoncé's one-piece swimsuit and light denim jumpsuit with holes at the knees.
Sexy style
An ultra-fashionable tight jumpsuit with flared trousers does not require any additions, because it can independently create a complete and incredibly “hot” look! You can easily adjust the depth of the neckline using the zipper, deciding how far you are willing to go in your frankness.
Closed jumpsuit
Unlike the previous version, this style, which is a combination of a “top” in the form of a shirt with short sleeves and slightly flared trousers, it looks quite modest. But at the same time, it’s up to you to decide whether to leave the jumpsuit buttoned up with all the buttons, or to reveal a little of the body. Accessories and shoes play a special role in this look.
"Top" with bare shoulders
A tight-fitting jumpsuit and a loose-fitting style will look very impressive in combination with a jacket, T-shirt or top with bare shoulders. At the same time, the overalls model is quite discreet and not provocative. Bare shoulders make the look seductive and chaste at the same time.
With stylish outerwear
Jumpsuit is great option to create a look for cool weather. You can simply throw your favorite jacket, raincoat or coat over your shoulders - voila, a chic, warm outfit is ready!
For some, overalls may be associated with childhood: hair tied up in two ponytails, a cute Panama hat, or time spent in kindergarten. But it is not so. In fact, overalls can be worn even at older ages.
The classic model of overalls – “a suit for a worker” – must have straps. Often the straps of a finished item are without fasteners, but simply sewn in. Or there is a clasp, but it is not adjustable in length.
There are cases when the straps on the overalls are not provided, and therefore you need to make them yourself.
You need to sew the straps to the back and then either thread them into the fasteners or make holes for the buttons. Many people, when wearing overalls, find that the straps fall off their shoulders, and this causes some inconvenience. Therefore, it is better to make their length adjustable.
But you can also make a simple strap with a hole for a button. To do this, calculate the required length so that the straps do not fall off your shoulders while wearing.
The straps are very comfortable for children. So, a jumpsuit with straps is easy to put on a child. They can also be adjustable, and thanks to this it will be comfortable not only for the baby, but also for his parents, since you can extend the life of the overalls by increasing their length according to the baby’s height.
Make straps on denim overalls
If you want to make your own denim overalls but don't know how to make the straps the right way, it's not difficult at all. You can choose the length of the straps and their width yourself, as you like.
Stages of work:
- From the bottom of the future strap we make an oblique cut. In the upper part, do not forget to make a slot for a button, which depends on its size.
- Sew along the edges, leaving a bias cut.
- Turn it right side out, iron it, and cut off the corners.
- We wash and stitch (you can use 1 line, it’s at your discretion).
- Sew the strap to the back. To do this, we apply the straps to its upper part with the front side inward, cut to cut.
- Sew the edge, leaving the bottom untouched.
- We cut off the corners, turn them inside out, iron them and sew them on.
If you plan to make an adjustable fastener, then you do not need to make a hole for the button. It will be necessary to thread the straps into a special buckle.
How to properly insert straps into fasteners
Exist different kinds fasteners for clothes. Each of them is threaded and secured differently. For example, there is regular fasteners, and there are those that need to be sewn and adjusted, like on the belt of baby strollers. Let's talk about the first type.
There is nothing complicated here. The main thing is to understand the principle. You need two parts: a metal rectangle with an iron fastener in the middle - this is the part that is usually located in the middle of the strap and what clings to the button. First, take the first part (rectangle) and thread the strap into it. To do this, thread it so that the fastener in the middle is visible from the inside of the strip of fabric, and the edges are visible from the outside. It is advisable to move this rectangle further away, because it will be necessary to attach the remaining part. We complete the fastening.
If you thread the second part so that its end is on the inside of the strap, then during subsequent steps it will end up inside the loop that will be made for tightening.
Where the first part is located, release the strap a little. We thread the free end inside the fastener, moving the latch in the middle to the side. After this, you need to pull out the strap again, move the latch again and try to thread this tail in the same way on the other side. All that remains is to fasten the strap, and in the end you will be able to fix the desired length.
How to make strap clasps adjustable
In order for the straps to be adjustable, you need to purchase special fasteners that perform this function.
Usually this is a metal fastener consisting of two parts: a latch, thanks to which they will be adjusted, and a holder, with which the strap is fastened. The button attached to such a fastener is usually not sewn on, but is attached using special equipment. You may need to contact customer service to have the buttons inserted.
If you don’t want to put a lot of effort into making the fastener adjustable, then you can do without buttons: you just need to buy a fastener and thread the strap into it.
As you can see: in some cases it is easy to attach to the overalls, but in others it requires more effort. But the result is worth it: the item will become much more comfortable to wear.
Overalls? Easily! Detailed master class.Yarn Troitskaya "Zimushka", 30% alpaca, 70% acrylic, 100 m per 50 g, color called "Light Salad", yarn consumption 210 g.
About yarn. Such overalls can be knitted from almost any yarn, according to your desire and depending on when you use them: summer or winter. For newborns, it is better not to take pure wool yarn - it is very itchy, and you can get allergies; in general, children are not comfortable. Preferably wool with a wool content of 30 to 60%, not very fluffy. Or with a higher wool content, if it is alpaca or merino, these are practically not itchy. Can be made from cotton or children's acrylic. Any thread thickness suitable for knitting needles.
The approximate amount of yarn p\w is 150-200 g, depending on the density of your knitting and the size of the overalls.
Knitting needles. I knit loosely, medium, so I will knit in circles No. 3, and stockings No. 3 and for cuffs 2. You will also need a hook No. 2-2.5 for tying the zipper. 
Begin.
First, calculate the number of loops to be cast on. To calculate, you need two values: neck circumference in cm and the density of your knitting, i.e. the number of loops per 1 cm in width.
Cast on an edge with open stitches on two pairs of needles (also called a cross cast-on).
I cast on 68 loops. 
Next we will knit the main fabric, then the hood. If the second knitting needles get in the way during the knitting process, then you need to knit two rows from one pair of knitting needles and close in the third row with a contrasting thread in the usual way.
We knit the first row with the main knitting needles; I usually knit it purl, in my opinion, it’s more convenient to distribute it onto the raglan.
Raglan calculation: 
11 loops for each front, 9 loops for each sleeve, 20 back loops + 8 raglan loops. I will knit raglan lines with purl stitches. And immediately in the 1st (purl) row we mark all the loops on the part.
Row 1 (purl): p11, k2, p9, k2, p20, k2, p9, k2, p11.
In order for the neckline on the front to be deeper than on the back, in the first front row (the second row in our process) we knit shortened rows along the loops of both sleeves and the back, making a turn in the raglan lines.
It turns out like this: 
I make additions before the raglans and after the raglans every second row of the front (that is, every fourth row is obtained) in the form of a “shell”: from one loop of the previous row, knit 3 loops (knit, yarn over, knit, crossed). 
Addition process:
2nd row: (1st row): knit 10, from the 11th loop we knit a “shell”, purl 2, “shell”, knit 7, “shell”, purl 2, “shell”, K18, shell, p2, shell, k7, shell, p2, shell, k10.
3rd row (purl): purl all, raglan loops - knit.
Row 4: knit all, purl raglan stitches, no increases
Row 5: purl all, raglan loops - knit
Row 6: K12, from the penultimate loop to the raglan line we knit a “shell”, purl 2, “shell”, sleeve loops, from the penultimate loop to the raglan line we knit a “shell”, purl 2, “shell”... etc.
Row 7: purl all, raglan loops - knit
Row 8: knit all, purl raglan stitches, no increases
Row 9: purl all, sing raglans - knits
Row 10: knit with increases
etc.
You can also use standard increases, for example, as in the video, or one yarn over BEFORE and AFTER the raglan line, each front row (i.e., every second row).
In general, the additions in both cases amount to 8 loops each front row.
Next we knit with increments until the total length of the raglan line is 12-13 cm. If the overalls are for ages from 10 months. and older or the baby is big and plump, then the length of the raglan line can be knitted 13-14 cm, no more. I got 6 “shells” + 2 rows. 
In general, everything looks like this: 
The total number of loops I had was: on the fronts - 23, on the sleeves - 33, on the back - 44, and 8 raglan loops.
We finish knitting with a single fabric and drop the sleeve loops onto the extra. knitting needles or pins. There are 2 options for further knitting - with or without undercut. I knit with an undercut - this means adding additional air loops between the front and back. In this case, the sleeve loops are dropped WITHOUT the raglan loops. It is knitted like this: front loops, 1st raglan stitches, 4 chain stitches, place the sleeve loops on a pin, then 2nd raglan loops on the main knitting needles, back loops, 3rd raglan loops, 4 chain stitches, place the sleeve loops on a pin, 4th raglan loops, shelf loops.
I get a back-front total of 23 + 23 + 44 + 8 = 98 loops and additionally between each shelf and the back I pick up 4 loops, i.e. a total of 98 + 8 = 106 loops. 
You can knit without undercuts. That is, without picking up air loops, then you need to divide the knitting along the raglan line, that is, 1 raglan loop will go to each part: knit a shelf, one raglan loop, then on an additional one. knitting needles the second raglan loop, sleeve loops and one raglan loop of the next raglan, continue on the main knitting needles to knit the second raglan loop, back loops, the first raglan loop of the next raglan...
Next we continue to knit in a straight line stockinette stitch no increases. 
Girls, next I will give my personal calculations and the method of tying a step bevel. We kindly ask - if you share the results on the Internet based on this knitting option, then please indicate the authorship of the method, just a link to IRANTA. Thank you for your understanding!
So, we knit in a straight line downwards from the calculation to the point where we need to divide the knitting into two legs, but from this value we subtract 2 cm for the “gusset” and another 3 cm. Don’t be alarmed, it’s simple. For overalls 68-74 cm:
1. The overall length of the overalls is 54-55 cm (based on rough calculations: maximum height minus the height of the child’s head = 74 cm - 20 cm = 54 cm)
2. Length of the trouser leg along the inner seam is approx. 20 cm, which means our knitting needs to be divided into trouser legs at a height of 35 cm, maybe a little lower, taking into account diapers - 36 cm
3. Step increases (gusset) in height are approx. 2 cm, i.e. 36 - 2 = 34 cm - this is the total knitting length from the neckline, measured along the back (there the length of the jumpsuit is longer due to the additional rows knitted)
4. Since we have a zipper in the front, in order for it to look beautiful, we need to make minimal recesses for it, literally 0.8 cm on each side of the shelves.
For such manipulations we knit as follows:
knitted in a straight line to 32-33 cm, 
then at the beginning and at the end of the front row, 2 air loops were added on each side. 
Then we continue to knit 4 rows in a straight line; in the last purl row, mark the middle of the knitting with a marker. 
We begin to knit a step bevel (gusset)
1st row: all persons. to the penultimate loop from the marker, knit two knits from the penultimate loop. loops from one, k1, transfer the marker to the right needle, k1, k2. loops from one, then all persons. to the end of the row
Row 2: purl all
Row 3: knit the edge, knit 2 from the next stitch. From one, from the next loop, knit 2 again. from one, then persons. to the penultimate stitch from the marker, from which knit 2. loops, k1, transfer the marker to the right needle, k1, k2. loops from one, then all persons. to the third loop from the edge. From the third loop from the edge, knit 2 knits. From one, from the penultimate loop, knit 2 knits. loops from one, chrome.
4th row: chrome. knit purl, then purl all stitches to the end of the row
5th row: chrome. knit, knit 2 from the next stitch. from one, then all persons. to the penultimate stitch from the marker, from which knit 2. from one, k1, transfer the marker to the right needle. 1 person, 2 person. from one, then all persons. to the penultimate loop from the edge, from which knit 2 knits. from one, chrome.
6th row: chrome. knit purl, then purl all the way to the end of the row
In the center it looks like this: 
From the edges like this: 
7th row: close 4 loops at the same time, then all knits. to the marker. 
This “triangle” of increase then forms a gusset when sewn together.
Divide the knitting into two parts according to the marker, remove the second part of the loops (after the marker) for additional stitches. knitting needles or pin. Unfold the knitting and now knit each leg separately.
Don’t forget to cross the two outer loops together when dividing them into parts so that they don’t stretch out. 
8th row: bind off 4 loops at the same time, then purl everything. to the end of the row
Row 9: knit the first two loops together, then all knit stitches. to the end of the row
Row 10: knit the first two stitches together purlwise, then purl all the way through. to the end of the row
It turns out like this: 
And now we knit the pant leg down. If you need wide pants, then you don’t have to make any decreases or narrow them towards the bottom. If, on the contrary, you need narrower pants, then evenly reduce the number of loops.
If you want WITHOUT seams, then from now on we switch to knitting the trouser leg on 5 knitting needles.
I knit with a minimal stitch - up to the cuff, and the elastic cuff itself is already in the round on 5 knitting needles.
Whichever one you prefer is up to your wishes.
The optimal number of loops on the cuff to fit the leg without tightening it is 40-44. This means that if you want a wide trouser leg and a narrow elastic band, then knit without decreasing until you switch to elastic, then in the first front row, immediately reduce the elastic to the required amount. If you need to smoothly narrow the trouser leg, then we make decreases “in a spiral”, i.e., decrease evenly from each of the four knitting needles through each row. If we knit with a seam, then accordingly we decrease smoothly along the edges of the knitting, knitting 2 stitches together after the edge.
Here are the resulting pants: 
One is sewn along the inner seam, the other is not yet. 
I knitted it like this: after all the increases and decreases for the step bevel (10 rows above), then continue to knit 15 knit rows (30 rows in total) with stockinette stitch, decreased 4 loops, knitting 2 stitches together twice from each edge. Then she threw the loops over stocking needles No. 2, decreasing one more loop at the junction of knitting in a circle. There are 11 loops on each knitting needle (44 loops in total), then knit 11 circular rows, unfolding the loop (i.e., knitting behind the front wall). Next, knit 3 rows with a double hollow elastic band. In a circle it's like this:
Row 1: knit only knit stitches, remove purl stitches, leaving behind the working thread.
2nd row: knit only purl stitches, slip knit stitches, working thread behind loop
3rd row: knit facial loops behind the front wall, as in row 1
In the 4th row, close by machine
We also knit the second leg, starting from the 7th row of the step bevel.
If you knit with a seam, then sew along the inside of the legs along the front side of the product with a vertical knitted seam.
Extend the seam of the second leg to the height of the recess for the zipper, or if knitted in the round, sew a seam from the center of the connection of the legs to this height. 
Sew the junction of the legs. 
From the back it looks like this: 
Between the legs: 
The resulting “triangle” is a step increase (gusset): 
Well, the general view: 
We knit further.
I’m used to knitting the sleeves last, so I won’t deviate from my rules - hood first.
The initially cast-on loops from the second knitting needles (if you closed them, you need to unravel them to the 1st row) knit three rows with a 1x1 elastic band. To ensure that the hood is not too large, the approximate total number of loops should be in the range of 58-64. For this yarn and this knitting density!!! I reduced the 1st row to 61 loops, simply knitting 2 stitches together through an equal number of loops.
Now about the ties. There are 2 options possible - along the perimeter of the hood (as on the model), or along the neck. In the second case, the hood trim will be purely decorative.
If along the neckline, then in the 2nd row of 1x1 elastic we make lacing, knitting *2 sts, yarn over*, in the 3rd row we continue to knit with 1x1 elastic, knit yarn overs with a regular loop to form a hole. Subsequently, a string-tie is inserted into this lacing and the width of the neck of the overalls is adjusted, the hood will be without strings.
In this overalls, I make a hood around the circumference - we knit a drawstring harness, into which we then insert strings.
Further this way: so that later the hood harness is in its place and looks neat, we will make indentations on each edge where this harness will subsequently “fit”.
4th row: bind off the first 5 loops, then purl all the loops (I have this row on the wrong side of the product),
5th row: bind off the first 5 stitches, then knit all stitches. 
Knit 2 rows in stockinette stitch
Now we knit a hood for both string options.
So, we knitted 2 rows in stockinette stitch. In order to avoid pulling the hood vertically, in the next front and back rows, knit shortened rows of 9 loops on each edge.
Persons row: chrome, k8, 1 st, remove, unroll the knitting, make an auxiliary yarn over, remove and purl all other loops to the end of the row. Knitting expand
Next knit row: chrome, all knits to the end of the row, knit an auxiliary yarn over with the next loop
Repeat the same steps on the purl side. 
Next, we knit 3 front rows (6 rows) in a straight line and repeat the shortened rows along the edges for 4 loops. We continue to knit in stockinette stitch in a straight line until the height of the hood along the back from the neckline is 17 cm. 
We divide the knitting into three parts and begin to knit the rounding according to the principle of the heel and toe. I have 53 loops, parts 18+17+18 loops. So that the depth of the hood is not too great, I knit 2 stitches 4-5 times together from the left knitting needle.
The result is a hood like this: the height along the face is 20-21 cm, the depth along the line of closing the loops is 10 cm. 
Now the strapping.
Along the edge of the hood from the beginning of the recesses for the binding (i.e., only along the vertical part of the hood), we collect loops from the front side of the product. I got 94 loops. 
And knit with an elastic band 1x1 in a straight line of 5 cm, bind off all the loops at the same time. 
Next, bend the knitted strip in half inward 
and sew with a needle to the cast-on edge, 
At the same time, connect the upper half of the plank along the outer side with the edge of the recess, 
and on the inside there should be a hollow part. 
The drawstring is ready. The hood is tied. The width of the hood together with the strap is 16.5 - 17 cm. All that remains is to pass the drawstring cord inside, but that will come later during assembly. 
Sleeves. Pick up 4 to 8 stitches along the undercut line, transfer the stitches to stocking needles and knit in stockinette stitch to the cuff.
I have 8 loops cast on (33 + 8 = 41 stitches), 
but in the first row, to make the edge look more neat, knit only one cast-on loop on each side of the cast-on and one stitch from a pin together. 2 loops will decrease, leaving 39 loops on the knitting needles. 
In the last 6 rows before the cuff, I decreased 3 more stitches, up to 36. Rib 1x1 using knitting needles No. 2, last 3 rows with double hollow ribbing, bind off using the “machine” method. 
We have finished knitting the jumpsuit. 
Now assembly..
We sew in a zipper. I first baste with pins, then immediately sew a backstitch (or machine stitch) along the front side of the product. Then, on the wrong side of the product, for additional fixation and a beautiful design, I stitch along the edge fabric base zippers with an overlock stitch.
This is a sewn-in zipper without a top decorative trim: 
This is the view from the inside: 
Next we make the strapping along the top. I crochet *2 VP, connect. column* along the entire perimeter of the zipper. 
A small nuance - so that the ends of the zipper don’t scratch the baby’s neck and chin, I “extend” the binding, i.e. I knit an additional 3 VPs and knit a square of 3 DC in 2 rows, sew it with a needle on top of the “spiky” plastic part of the zipper and the problem is solved . 
Finished the strapping. There are ties left - crochet 60-70 cm long, put through the drawstring. If lacing was initially done along the neck, then accordingly it should be done in it. Place plastic ends on the ends.
That's it, the suit is ready. All that remains is to wash, lay out beautifully and dry.
In finished form, the dimensions are as follows: length from shoulder to bottom - 56 cm, vertical armhole height - 10.5 cm, sleeve length from the neck along the outer fold - 27 cm, along the inside - 14 cm, leg length along the inner seam - 20 cm, width along the chest line at the armhole level - 28 cm, width of the trouser leg - 13 cm, height of the hood along the trim - 21 cm.
Yarn consumption - 210 g (from the 5th skein I literally took 50 g for tying zippers and ties)
Well, this is what it looks like. My "girl" is approx. 70-71 cm, quite well-fed. The hood can be pulled deeper and secured with strings, and the arms and legs still have one and a half to two cm of length left for growth, just up to 9 - 9.5 months. 
This is my first experience in pattern modeling, so if something is incorrect, I will be glad to hear your comments.
We will build a pattern based on two patterns:
Patterns for a warm blouse, size 92:
· patterns for children's sweatpants, size 92: .
Part 1. Construction of a denim overalls pattern
Step 1. Take a pattern for the back and front of a warm blouse. On the back pattern, fold along the dotted line. This will be the shoulder on the back. We finish the bent piece on the shelf. We get a new shoulder line on the shelf. We draw a new line for the neckline of the back and front, departing from the old line half the width of the collar by 1.7 cm (a collar is provided on the pattern of a warm blouse).
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Step 2.Determine the waist line. To do this, take a measurement of the length of the back Dc: the distance from the 7th cervical vertebra along the spine to the waist line.
· AB= Dc + 1 cm. I got 22 + 1 = 23 cm. Draw a horizontal line BV.
· Connect the dots using a smooth curve BG.
o VG= 1.5 cm for height 80-98.
o VG= 1 cm for height 104-116.
o VG= 0.5 cm for height 122-152 cm.
Step 3. Add 3 cm to the waist line. Next, randomly draw the straps, front, back, and back yoke. I started drawing from the front strap. From point D I lowered the straight line vertically downwards (in green in the figure), retreated 3 cm, and drew a strap. On the back I drew the top line of the strap (in blue in the picture). I stepped back 3 cm from the straight line and drew a strap.
Step 4. We cut out the parts and cut them along the red outline.
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Step 5.We turn the front strap over, apply it to the back strap, as shown in the figure, and add another 10 cm of strap.
Step 6. We take pants patterns without a belt, since our waistline is low. We adjust the length of the waist line of the front half of the pants until it is equal to the length of the waist line of the front. We lengthen the trouser leg by the size of the cuff and widen it towards the bottom.
Step 7 Add 0.5 cm along side seam for a loose fit.
Step 8 We draw the line of entry into the pocket, the burlap of the pocket.
Step 9 We draw a pocket on the front part and a facing.
Step 10 Glue the back and back part of the pants (without the belt). Adjust the length of the waistline of the back half of the pants until it is equal to the length of the back waistline. We lengthen the trouser leg by the size of the cuff and widen it towards the bottom.
Step 11 Add 0.5 cm along the side seam for a loose fit. Draw the back pocket.
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We translate and cut out all the details of the overalls. This is what we should get:
The patterns are ready, but before you start sewing from the main fabric, it is better to sew a trial version from some unnecessary fabric. It is enough to cut out the front part, the front half (one-piece with a side) and the back half, try it on and, if necessary, make changes to the pattern.
Part 2. Sewing denim overalls
To sew the overalls I needed:
· constructed pattern of overalls size 92;
· 80 cm of stretch denim with a width of 150 cm;
· fabric for burlap pocket (I used calico);
· bias tape for processing pockets 30 cm;
Contrasting threads for topstitching seams;
· 2 buckles for straps;
· 6 denim buttons;
· 4 button anorak;
· 2 blocks;
· 1 thermal sticker.
Step 1. We cut out the details of the overalls from the main fabric; I cut out the burlap pockets from calico. Denim fabric is loose, so allowances must be made at least 1 cm. For seam allowances, see fig.
Don’t forget to mirror the front hem allowance (indicated in the figure blue)! I made all other seam allowances 1 cm each. I also additionally cut out 2 side pockets with folds.
Step 2. I took the processing of pockets from Nina Kuznetsova’s master class “Sew denim shorts» ().
We apply burlap as in the photo from the wrong side.
On the front side we adjust the bias tape, pulling it a little at the bend. Due to tension, the facing itself rises upward. If necessary, notch the allowance at the corners.
Step 3.We turn the pocket entrance allowance inside out along with the facing. We baste, forming a roll of the main fabric to the wrong side of 1-2 mm.
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Step 4.We put 2 finishing lines on the front side. I have on sewing machine there is a special line that imitates hand stitch, I used it for stitching.
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The advantage of this treatment is that the entrance to the pocket is springy: the bias facing keeps the rounding of the entrance to the pocket from stretching, but at the same time gives freedom for the edge to expand as the hand enters.
Step 5. We put the barrel on, pin it only to the burlap of the pocket.
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Step 6.We sew a line and overlay the edge.
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Step 7 In places where the barrel overlaps the front half, we lay a running stitch.
Step 8 We overstitch the hem allowance at the front pocket and iron all the allowances. Use a finishing stitch to sew the top hem allowance.
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Step 9 Iron the hem allowance at the front, pin the pocket and sew two finishing lines, thereby sewing the pocket.
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Step 10 Place the front halves right sides together. We lay a line, overlay it.
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Iron the seam allowance onto one of the halves and add finishing stitches to the front side.
Step 11 Place the front of the front halves of the pants on the front side and pin them together.
Turn it over. We combine the wrong side of the front halves of the pants with the top of the facing, pin it together, and sew a stitch.
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Step 12 Iron the seam allowance towards the front.
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Step 13 Iron the top edge of the front facing.
We put finishing stitches on the front side, thereby sewing on the facing. We cut off the bumps on the sides.
Step 14 We cut out facings for processing the sides and fasteners of the front half of the overalls. Place the piece on a piece of fabric. We outline with chalk. At the top, the facing does not reach the folded edge of the front by 2 cm, and at the bottom it ends just below the entrance to the pocket.
We finish drawing the second side of the facing (the approximate width is indicated in the photo).
Cut out the facings. This is what should happen in the end.
Step 15 We overlay the front hem and the inside facings. We apply the facings as shown in the photo, sew a line, and press the seam allowances towards the facing.
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Step 16We apply facings to the front side of the front part and sew a stitch.Very important: you need to finish the stitch smoothly, not reaching about 1 cm from the entrance to the pocket! We cut the corners as shown in the photo.
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Step 17 We turn the facings inside out, sew out the edge, and iron it. We put finishing stitches on the front side.
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Step 18 Let's start processing the back pockets. We overcast the hem allowance, iron it to the wrong side, and put a finishing stitch on the right side. Iron the remaining allowances. We sew a random pattern on the pockets, making it symmetrical if possible.
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Step 19 We pin the pockets to the back halves. We lay finishing stitches, thereby sewing on the pockets. At the top of the pockets we lay a narrow and frequent zigzag stitch, thereby making fastenings.
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Step 20. We overlay the “rounded” side edge at the back halves, iron the hem allowance to the wrong side. We put finishing stitches on the front side.
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Step 21 Let's start making the back facings of the fastener. From the main fabric we cut out 2 rectangles, length: the size of the red arrow in the photo + 1 cm, width 11 cm.
Fold the rectangle in half widthwise, right side inward. We put a stitch at one end. We turn it inside out and set it aside. We overlay the second end.
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Step 22 We apply facings to the front part of the overalls, as shown in the photo. We pin them with pins.
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Step 23 Place the back halves on the front half of the overalls with pinned facings, aligning them as shown in the photo.
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We pin with a pin in the place where the front half, the front facing, the back facing of the fastener and the back half touch.
Step 24 We sew a line: 2.5 - 3 cm above the pin and 1 - 1.5 cm below the pin.
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Step 25 We remove all the pins and again chop off the back facing of the fastener and the back half. And continue stitching up the side seam.
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Step 26Place a stitch down the side seam and overlay. Press the seam allowance onto the back half. We put finishing stitches on the front side.
Step 27 We pin the front part of the overalls and the back facing of the fastener with pins. We fasten with a narrow and frequent zigzag stitch in the place where the front and back parts “meet”. We unscrew the front part, combine the front facing and the back facing of the fastener and make a tack.
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Step 28 We sew and cut the loops on the front half. Usually there are 2 - 3 loops on denim bib overalls.
Step 29Let's start processing the side pockets. Use chalk to transfer the fold lines. We process the top of the pocket in the same way as other pockets. Iron the pocket along the fold lines. Iron the remaining allowances.
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We pin the pocket in the right place along the side seam. Be careful: the pocket flap will be located about 1 cm higher. Do not touch the burlap pocket with its stitching, otherwise the pocket will be less deep! Sew the pocket with finishing stitches. We make fastenings at the top of the pocket.
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