Basque – fashion accessory, with which you can “refresh” any thing.
Basques perfectly correct the figure, hiding flaws and emphasizing advantages. The peplum will visually increase the hips, reduce the waist, hide the tummy, in general - a very interesting detail!
Let's look at a pattern for a top with a peplum, as well as several options for different peplums. Based on the top pattern, you can model any of the peplums below and, in fact, sew any peplum you like to the top of the product. You can also sew a peplum belt as a separate accessory.
Peplum top pattern
We take as a basis a pattern of a regular straight silhouette (of the required size), maybe even from a magazine. Cut along the waist line. We close the darts at the waist line and spread them to the desired width (Figure 1).
Picture 1.
Model the peplum (Figure 2). The more spreading lines you apply, the more fluffy the peplum will be. In Fig. 2 clearly shows how you can make a peplum a separate accessory.
If you decide to sew a top, then first assemble the top and the peplum separately, and then sew them along the waist line. Do not forget that the product fits tightly to the figure and you will need to work in a zipper passing through the waist line, so the product must have a central seam on the back. The peplum should be sewn into the center seam.
Figure 2.
Basque options.
Peplum-sun.
Let us recall the formula for the perimeter of a circle, where P is the volume of your waist, the number π = 3.14. We calculate the required radius in order to draw a circle. From the resulting circumference, we lay down the desired length of the peplum. The pattern is suitable for a top and as an independent unit.
The process of making a basque as a separate accessory.
1. We cut out the peplum, taking into account the seam allowances.
2. Cut along the line (V.M.) of the center front.
3. Iron the bottom allowance to the “wrong” side.
4. We make a thick decorative stitch with a zigzag seam, stretching the fabric a little.
5. Carefully trim the excess allowance.
6. Front (side) cuts are processed in the same way.
7. Prepare the belt. We cut it out and glue it with adhesive non-woven fabric.
8. Sew on the belt.
Fold the belt with the waist cut of the peplum (right sides), stitch at a distance of 0.7-1 cm from the top.
Iron. Stitch the corners, leaving an allowance for the fastener on the left side.
Turn out.
Pin or baste to the wrong side of the waistband.
Make decorative stitching.
Sew on a fastener of your choice - a hook, a button, a button. You can extend the ends of the belt to tie it in a bow.
Baska with wrap
Pattern:
It is built in the same way as the peplum - the sun. Then the center line (V.M.) is extended by 10-12 cm and a soft scent line is drawn (see figure).
Sewing process.
The beginning of processing is similar to the “sun”.
In this model, the upper cut is edged with bias tape. You can make the binding yourself by cutting the fabric at a 45° angle (4 cm wide, iron the edges to the center of the wrong side so that you end up with an even 2 cm strip), or you can also use a ready-made one.
The finished (made) binding is basted and attached to the top edge.
At the right end of the belt and at the lower right corner we make air loops. Sew on the buttons.
Short front peplum.
Pattern:
It is built on the basis of a sun basque, with the only difference being that we must raise the bottom line along the front to the desired amount (see picture).
Work process:
The beginning is the same as in previous models. The processing of the upper cut differs. In this version, it is processed with grosgrain ribbon.
Iron the seam allowance (0.5 cm) onto the front side. Place grosgrain tape over the seam allowance so that it overlaps the edge by 0.5-0.8 cm. Stitch with a zigzag or two straight lines.
In this case, the easiest way is to buy the required footage or choose a different pattern. But, hunting is worse than bondage! This means we will look for a solution. Of course, this is not always possible, but we will try to “save” on fabric using an example easy patterns blouses with peplum, model 118 from.
Pattern:
Sleeveless blouse made from translucent fabric with a playful pattern, with a gathered peplum and a look…
So, the footage stated in the magazine is 1.5 m with a width of 120 cm. Even with the most compact placement of all the details of the pattern on the fabric, the latter will require at least one meter, taking into account allowances.
In this master class, a piece of silk chiffon 0.7 m long with a width of 130 cm was used.
You will need:
✂ Tracing paper;✂ Silk scissors;
✂ Tailor's chalk;
✂ Ruler;
✂ Measuring tape;
✂ Marker;
✂ Needle and thread for sewing;
✂ Thin, low-temperature interlining on tissue based;
✂ Tailor's pins for silk
Step 1. Adjusting the shoulder seam
On the back detail, the shoulder seam is shifted so that the illusion of a yoke is created at the front of the blouse. You can move this part to a shelf.
Transfer the contours of the back part from the shoulder seam up onto tracing paper.
Cut it out.
Step 2
Unfold part of the back piece exactly along the line of the shoulder seam and transfer the pattern to the fabric, folded in half with the right side inward. Cut it out.
Step 3
Pin the front part along with the small part from the back (step 1) onto the fabric, folded in half with the right side inward, aligning them with each other. Cut it out.
Step 4. Adjusting the peplum size
The size of one part of the peplum according to the Burda pattern is 1 m X 24 cm. This is exactly what you can “save” on the peplum.
From the remaining piece of chiffon, it is necessary to cut a one-piece basque for the entire length, in this case 130 cm. But at the same time, the height of the basque can be increased as much as the remaining fabric allows.
Since the basque piece is rectangular, we cut it out along the thread.
: Master Class
Sew the one-piece piece of the basque into a ring.
Step 5. Front cut
Instead of the original neckline cut, you can make a straight cut and finish it with a facing, or.
Mark the line of the middle front along the fold line of the front.
Cut out a facing from chiffon - a strip 4 cm wide. And also a strip 2 cm wide from thin low-temperature non-woven fabric.
Iron a strip of interlining along the line of the middle front of the shelf from the wrong side.
Fold the facing with the front with right sides facing each other, aligning the lines of the middle of the parts. Baste the facing to the shelf.
Delay the facing along the mid-front line at a distance of 3-5 mm from it.
Use tailor's silk scissors to make a cut.
Cut the allowances in the corners to the ends of the lines, not reaching them by 1 mm.
Iron the edges of the facing up.
Turn the facing to the wrong side and baste it to the edge.
Turn the open edges of the facing inward and baste.
Postpone the facing to the edge.
Iron.
Step 6
Sew the side and shoulder seams of the blouse.
Step 7
On both sides of a one-piece peplum, mark the middle of the piece.Step 8
Also mark the middle along the bottom of the front and back of the blouse.Step 9. Sew the peplum to the blouse
In this case, the basque can be sewn in different ways.Place one opposite fold in the front and back for the difference between the length of the peplum and the bottom cut of the blouse. Pin together the peplum piece with the blouse, aligning the marks along the side seams, along the line of the middle front and back. Stitch.
Place several shallow folds on the peplum up to the length of the bottom edge of the blouse. Pin the peplum to the blouse, aligning the marks along the side seams, along the line of the middle front and back. Stitch.
Or gather up a peplum piece.
Along the upper edge of the peplum, lay two parallel lines with a maximum stitch length, departing from the cut 0.7 cm and 1.5 cm, respectively.
Pin the peplum to the blouse, aligning the marks along the side seams, along the line of the middle front and back. And gather the peplum to the length of the bottom cut of the blouse.
Sew the peplum to the bottom edge of the blouse. Press seam allowances upward.
Step 10
Finish the open cut of the peplum with a rolled seam on an overlocker or a narrow zigzag stitch on a sewing machine. Have you ever had it happen... that some event rushes you... and you are forced to do a hundred things in two or three days? and even when a person is talking to you.. even on business.. suddenly asks you, are you in a hurry, Svetlana?.. and I understand.. that as soon as I got into the rhythm in the morning.. I started running.. I’m still running.. even sitting opposite and listening to a person... apparently this rhythm rushes out of me... I ran!!! you will have time to do everything! and I hope I’ll make it in time :))) while I’m running..but now I decided to relax and just pee, or rather show the little thing... or rather, what I sewed...
I think many of you have had it.. bam.. and the dress somehow doesn’t fit)) and suddenly you realize.. but it’s new!! and I’ve never worn it... maybe I’ll sell it... but why?! when you can give something a second life.. although there wasn’t a first one))) but that’s a completely different story...
And so.. it was decided, there is no dress, so there will be a skirt!! and what do I need from above.. yes! blouse!.. with a peplum!! and preferably in tone.... I took my dress and went to the store to buy fabric for a blouse....
Here's what happened in the end... well, I'll continue for now...
In the store I immediately went through the color of the dress... I decided on the fabric...
Jacquard..
This is the jacquard I decided to buy...
for this blouse I needed 1.4 m.
I took this pattern...
I won’t call this a master class, because I’m not a pro... I’ll just show you how I do it. questions, how do I do this or that... here is my answer... yes, something like this...
First I iron the fabric.. but since my iron is now very bad.. so it somehow happened))) I lay out the fabric on the floor.. I generally like to redraw patterns, cut, etc.. on the floor.. well, I think you all have a favorite place :))
Therefore, I first figured out how to lay out the pattern more economically... but it turns out that I just recently found out that many people buy fabric in the store, first laying out the pattern right there in the store... I was surprised, because in 23 years I have never met such Yes, and I prefer to save fabric, so I lay it out so that the consumption is as low as possible, but at home first, if I know that I definitely want this item.. and then I rarely do it :))) I mainly determine it by eye.. and that’s why , that for so many years.. I’ve been cutting the same thing)) so, first I figured it out.. and started with the back and the shelf.. sparingly laying them out on the fabric like this..
You know that I’m not a fan of high waists, so I have almost a standard with burd patterns, I lengthen them by 4 cm + an allowance of 1.5 cm.
But this is so individual, for example, for my friend it is too low and she really doesn’t like it, she sews exactly according to the pattern, so you understand, all this is individual. But in my case, I lengthened the back and shelf by 5 cm...
I trace the patterns using ordinary soap... I dry a piece of soap on the radiator, then I work with it.... it's cheap and I personally like it :)
This is how I draw an undercut.. I make notches with scissors..
This is how they turn out
I'm making a pattern..
And I draw an undercut on the other side... I do the same with all the parts where there are undercuts
You already know that I don’t like lining.. well, I don’t.. that’s why I sew this blouse without a lining, and I need a facing around the neckline.. so I take the fabric, attach the front and back, trace the line of the neckline and shoulder...
And I draw a facing = 7 cm... 1.5 from the top, 1.5 cm from the bottom, this is an allowance..
Well, this is purely my desire to cut such a width of facing... this is how I draw with a ruler using a remnant...
I’m cutting it out.. this is how the facing turns out...
That's about how... cleanly put it on the back...
I take out the adhesive dublerin, apply the facings... and cut...
This is how I cut out the front facing, on the fold...
And I glue it with an iron... I don’t cut off the excess, because everything will be cut off later on the overlocker...
Then I move from the floor to the table to the machines, open the magazine and read the instructions...
The first thing is the undercuts... I sewed them... first I baste them, then I stitch them in...
Here they are.. I don’t cut them off as written until I try them all on.. otherwise it won’t fit :))) so for now I leave it like that and make recesses on the back..
If everything fits well, as you wanted, we stitch it in, overlay it, I also process the cuts on the back using an overlocker... and iron everything... I think everyone knows the rule, we iron all the seams on the back, shoulder and side... and the darts in the direction side seams...stitched, ironed...
Sew the shoulder seams at the facing....
I cut the allowance close to the seam so that there is no thickness on the shoulders..
Then we press the seams on the facing...
I'm spending side seams at the peplum.. and I process it on the overlocker and iron everything on the back..
Something like this...
I tried it on.. everything is fine, stitched and overlocked..
And this is the back from the inside out...
Next, we baste the zipper.. I have it hidden.. this model is personally humpbacked on my back.. so I baste so that there is no hump.. then I cut off the excess with an overlocker.. I baste.. and be sure to measure.. everything is fine..
We put on the foot for the hidden zipper and sew in the zipper.. this is how I sew it in..
Using an overlocker, then we cut off all the excess...
And I'm basting...
The neck of my product has stretched... so I carefully fit the front and back... basting the facing....
I've outlined...
And she stitched...
I cut the seam allowance close to the stitching...remove the basting...
I sew up the corner where the zipper is and cut off the allowance...
And I cut a corner...
I iron the seam allowances...
And on the front side, close to the line, I stitch the facing...
I then fold the facing to the wrong side and iron it...
In the shape of the sun
Peplum on the belt, the same along the entire length.
How to sew a peplum quickly and easily
You will need: fabric (minimum 70 x 70 cm), pattern paper (), perlon thread 0.45 mm thick (efco), tailor's pins (), tailor's scissors (), sewing thread (Coats).
STEP 1 Make a paper peplum pattern according to the drawing above. The finished length of the peplum is approx. 20 cm. Cut out a peplum from fabric (with a 1 cm wide seam allowance).
STEP 2 Cut the peplum along the line of the middle front, iron the seam allowance along the bottom edge to the wrong side, lay a perlon thread along the fold and sew the seam allowance with a zigzag stitch, slightly stretching the fabric.
STEP 3 Carefully cut off the excess allowance from the wrong side close to the zigzag stitch. Then process the seam allowances on both front edges in the same way (without the perlon thread). 
INSTRUCTIONS
You will need:
Cotton poplin 0.70 m wide 140 cm; perlon threads 0.45 mm thick (efco); interlining G 785; 1 hook; silk paper; sewing threads.
Reduced pattern drawing:
According to the drawing (data given in cm) above, make a life-size peplum pattern from silk paper.
Cut:
- basque (according to drawing) 1x, seam allowances - 1 cm;
- belt 69−73−77−81−85−89 cm long (of which 3 cm is the allowance for the fastener) and 6 cm wide, finished 3 cm, seam allowance - 1 cm.
Interlining: Iron the interlining to the waistband.
Radius ®:
size 34: 10.4 cm, size 36: 11.0 cm,
size 38: 11.6 cm, size 40: 12.3 cm,
size 42: 12.9 cm, size 44: 13.5 cm.
Dictionary:
V.M. - mid-front line
Description of work:
Cm. step by step instructions on sewing basques, given at the beginning of the article.
Then sew on the belt. To do this, fold the belt with the peplum right sides together and stitch it to the waist edge at a distance of 1 cm, leaving the allowance for the belt fastener protruding beyond the left end of the peplum. Press the seam allowances and the allowance along the open longitudinal section of the waistband onto the waistband. Turn the belt halfway to the right side and sew short sections at the ends. Turn out the belt. Pin the inner half of the waistband over the stitching seam. On the front side of the peplum, place a stitch exactly in the seam of the waistband. Sew the bottom edges of the seam allowance under the belt clasp. Sew a hook under the right end of the belt so that the stitches are not visible from the front side of the belt. Make a small air loop at the left end of the belt.
With smell
Asymmetrical peplum with a banded top hem.
Sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
You will need:
Cotton poplin 0.70 m wide 140 cm; perlon threads 0.45 mm thick (efco); 2 small buttons; silk paper; sewing threads; thread for sewing buttonholes.
Reduced pattern drawing:
Cut:
- peplum (according to the drawing) 1x, outer cut allowance - 1 cm, waist cut allowance (inner circle) is not required;
- bias tape for edging the waist cut 64−68−72−76−80−84 cm and 4 cm wide, including allowances.
Description of work:
Then edge the waist section. To do this, on the bias binding, iron seam allowances along the longitudinal sections to a width of 1 cm on the wrong side, turn back one allowance again, fold the binding with the peplum right sides and stitch it to the waist cut along the fold. Fold the binding upwards and tuck in the ends. Turn the binding to the wrong side, going around the seam allowances, and baste it over the stitching seam. From the front side of the peplum, sew a stitch into the stitching seam of the binding. Sew up the open edges at the ends of the binding.
At the right end of the edging and at the bottom right corner of the peplum, make a small air loop using buttonhole thread. Sew a button to the left end of the edging. Fasten the lower right corner of the peplum to the button.
Briefly speaking!
Short front peplum with grosgrain ribbon.
Sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
You will need:
Cotton poplin 0.70 m wide 140 cm; perlon threads 0.45 mm thick (efco); grosgrain ribbon 5.00 m wide 1.5 cm; silk paper; sewing threads.
Reduced pattern drawing:
According to the drawing given above, make a life-size peplum pattern from silk paper.
Cut:
- peplum (according to the drawing) 1x, outer cut allowance - 1 cm, waist cut allowance (inner circle) - 5 mm.
Description of work:
See step-by-step instructions for sewing a peplum at the beginning of the article.
Then stitch on the grosgrain ribbon. To do this, iron the waist allowance on the front side to a width of 5 mm. Place the grosgrain ribbon on the skirt and pin it along the edge of the waist so that the ribbon extends 1 cm beyond it, and the same length beyond the mid-front line. Topstitch the grosgrain ribbon with a zigzag stitch.
Photo: Jan Schmiedel (7), Catwalkpix.com(3). design: Claudia Risland.
Such decorative element, like a basque, is able to transform the simple everyday dress in a smart evening. It emphasizes a thin waist and focuses attention on the hips, making any figure truly feminine and sophisticated. For a beginning craftswoman, sewing a dress with a peplum has an undeniable advantage. The peplum is extremely simple to process and is easily sewn to the base, so you have the opportunity to update standard patterns and create original clothes;) Today we will learn together how to create dress patterns with a peplum, and also sew an incredibly beautiful women's outfit for a special occasion! 😉
A peplum is a variation of the finishing of a finished product (skirt, dress, jacket or blouse) in the form of a frill or flounce, which, in most cases, is sewn along the waistline. It can have different sizes and shapes, be long or short, one-piece or a separately cut piece, consist of one or two or three layers, its edges can be either smooth or asymmetrical. With a little imagination, you can turn such a simple accent as a peplum into a real work of sewing art!
How to cut a basque
Craftswomen use three types of constructing patterns for this decorative element:
- Basque sun and half-sun;
- folds and gathers;
- fantasy variations.
The first option - the peplum sun - is considered classic and resembles a mini-skirt with a half-sun or sun. It is clear that this detail is built on the same principle as the patterns of these skirt models, the only change is the length, it is much shorter.
The second option for sewing a peplum - folds or gathers - is considered easier than the one described earlier. For this part you will need to cut out a rectangular blank of the required width. The length of such a rectangle should be one and a half to two times the circumference of your waist, depending on the desired splendor of folds or frills.
The third option - fantasy basques - is difficult to describe in one or two sentences, because they can be completely different! This trim can be located on the sides of the product, resembling wings, or be a continuation of the back, or placed diagonally. Can be sewn from dense material, and from lace. In general, it’s not for nothing that we call them fantasy ;)
How to sew a basque
The main thing we should remember before cutting and sewing a peplum is that we perform all actions after preliminary fitting of the part! Thus, we will outline the stitching line and determine the exact dimensions of this decorative element - its length and width. By playing a little with the line of stitching the peplum, you can visually adjust your figure - elongate the silhouette, shorten the torso and even hide a small tummy!
We recommend cutting the peplum on the bias, but there are exceptions. Don't forget about processing the lower cuts. To better preserve the shape of the decorative element, you can cheat a little and sew a thin fishing line along the edge of the part;)
A separately cut basque should be stitched after stitching the darts, placing the basque face to face with the front and back.
A little about fabric
In the process of building a peplum, you should consider what kind of product and what material you are going to sew from. This applies not only to dresses, skirts and jackets, but also to frilly belts.
For example, if you are sewing a dress from jersey and it is not supposed to have a zipper, you can build a classic one-piece peplum and then sew it to the product, as we advised just above.
If you are using a less elastic fabric and expect to have a zipper, keep in mind that it may go over the ruffles. In this case, the decorative element will have a cut, so you should check its exact position, then process the peplum taking into account the location of the fastener and button.
DIY sun peplum dress pattern
The first pattern of a dress with frills, which we will model today, is extremely simple and even beginner craftswomen can do it. This model clearly shows how you can transform a discreet style of sheath dress into a bright (and we’re not just talking about the color!), spectacular and versatile dress for both the office and corporate events every day!
The pattern of a dress with a peplum is created on the basis basic pattern women's dress, which we built earlier. If you don’t have one yet, we recommend downloading it on the Internet or, which is much better, building it yourself according to individual standards.
Stage one
We cut the pattern of the front and back of the dress at the waist. The bottom of the dress with a peplum - the skirt - is cut out without changes. Next, we need to move on to modeling the top of the product and, in fact, the frills themselves.
From the waist level of the front and rear workpieces, we set aside three centimeters upward and draw horizontal lines along the pattern. We cut off the resulting blank and glue it along the dart lines.
We model “princess” reliefs on the bodice of the dress.
We set aside six centimeters along the back and along the front of the dress from the depth line up. This value may vary depending on the specifics of the figure.
Important! To create exactly the dress relief pattern you want, we recommend trying on the product pattern, transferred to tracing paper, onto the figure and, standing in front of the mirror, mark the place on the armhole from which the relief will be built.
Stage two
We move the darts of the front and back of the dress, as shown in the pattern. We don’t do a second waist dart on the front!
Using the pattern, we draw out the reliefs of the front and back, as shown in the pictures. We cut the dress blanks along the drawn relief lines. Cut the top dart on the front and close it.
Back and bodice front:
We close the small dart that appeared on the front of the dress during modeling on paper, iron the pattern a little, and straighten it out.
We model the armhole notch by setting aside five centimeters along the shoulder from the neckline notch. We draw new lines for the armholes of the front and back of the product along the pattern.
We cut the bodice:
Modeling a peplum
First we need to correctly calculate the radius for the peplum cut. The radius is 1/6 of the waist circumference minus one centimeter. We build a semicircle, as shown in the photo. From the drawn semicircle we set aside the length of the part, that is, 20 cm, and draw a second semicircle.
How to sew a dress with a peplum
Calculation required material we produce in this way: one length of the dress plus two lengths of the bassinet plus fifty centimeters (for a one-piece facing, seam allowances and hems).
From a piece of selected fabric we will need to cut out:
- two blanks of the middle part of the back bodice;
- two blanks for the side part of the back bodice;
- one blank with a fold in the middle part of the shelf bodice;
- two blanks for the side part of the shelf bodice;
- one blank with a fold of the stitched shelf belt;
- two blanks of stitched back belt;
- one blank with a fold of the front skirt fabric;
- two blanks of the back skirt fabric;
- two basque blanks.
While working, do not forget to overcast the internal seam allowances using an overlocker and process the seams with a steam iron.
We sew the raised seams on the bodice of the back and the shelf, and sew the blanks of the belts to the shelf and the back. We sew darts on the skirt fabrics.
Sew the side seams on the bodice and skirt. On the peplum, we sew over the seam allowances, bend them and hem them with a blind seam. We place the peplum with the front side facing the face of the skirt, sewing it along the waistline and along the back sides. Attaching the bodice to the skirt. We sew a hidden zipper in the center of the back.
We process the neckline and armholes with one-piece facings.
We fold the allowance at the bottom of the dress and sew it with a blind seam.
That's all, the original peplum dress is ready!
Blouse or dress with peplum: video master class
How to create a pattern for a fitted pencil dress with a peplum
What could be more feminine and graceful than a corsage fitted midi dress with bare shoulders and basque? These outfits seem to be made for special occasions! To sew this outfit, we suggest preparing three types of fabric: plain satin for the bodice, knitted floral fabric with a 3D effect for the skirt and a little more dark shade fabrics for a spectacular and accent set-in belt, duplicated with crepe chiffon.
Constructing a dress pattern with a peplum
The style of the dress is modeled on the basic pattern of a women's dress. We recommend that you build it according to individual measurements, ideally adjusting it to your body shape.
Because ready product fits tightly to the figure; when creating the basic pattern, we add up to one and a half centimeters for freedom of fit.
Shaping the front
From the waist level we step back four centimeters. Then we cut the paper pattern along the drawn line. The rectangular piece marked with a dotted line indicates the location of the set-in belt, which we need to cut out separately.
In the center of the front we model an insert, the width of which is 1.25 centimeters at the top and 2 centimeters at the bottom. The height of the front insert at the level of the middle front is 21 centimeters.
We draw the top section of the bodice of the front part of the dress with a slightly curved line, bring it to the side seam, putting one centimeter down the side line from the armhole.
Draw the fold lines as indicated on the pattern. We cut along the lines of the folds and one of the sides of the darts on the chest and waist. We close the chest dart completely, and the waist dart halfway, opening the folds towards the center of the bodice. The depth of each fold is four centimeters.
Basque formation
We draw out a rectangular part, the length of which is equal to the length of the front AB without taking into account the dart, and the width is 13 centimeters. From the lower right corner we put one and a half centimeters up and three centimeters to the right. We draw lines of folds, cut the part along the lines of folds and spread them apart, as shown in the pattern. We cut out the basque with a fold along the line of the middle front. We remove the front panel of the skirt from the pattern without changes.
Shaping the back
In the same way as when modeling the front of the dress, we put four centimeters up from the waist and draw a dotted line. Cut the back bodice along the marked line. From the armhole along the side line we put one centimeter down. Draw a line for the back neckline.
We cut the back along the dart line and cut it out with two blanks.
The set-in belt is indicated by a dotted line - we cut out the rectangular blank separately. We model the back peplum in exactly the same way as the front peplum. AB – distance along the back without taking into account the waist dart.
We cut out the back panel of the skirt without changes. Separately, we cut out a set-in belt with a width of four centimeters and a length around the waist plus three centimeters. From the lining fabric we cut out all the dress pieces (parts 11-17), taking into account seam allowances.
Dress with peplum without pattern: MK video
Dress patterns: how to sew a dress with a peplum and sleeves
This discreet elegant dress with a peplum will emphasize the style and femininity of its owner! Flirty short sleeves and seductive but not deep cut on the chest, making it ideal for a date or corporate event! 😉
The pattern of this dress is designed based on the basic dress pattern, and the sleeves are designed according to the pattern for a one-seam sleeve.
The finished pattern for a dress with a peplum looks like this. Front of dress and peplum:
Back of the dress and back of the peplum:
The sleeve is modeled using a standard sleeve pattern; its length is 15 centimeters.
Constructing a pattern
We model the pattern of the front part of the dress as shown in the first diagram. First you need to model the middle front pieces, placing seven centimeters down from the top bust dart. We cut off the gray blank in the form of a triangle and glue it to the left side of the chest dart. Lower the line of the dress in the center one centimeter down. Draw a new waist line. We cut along the front of the dress.
We draw a basque, the length of which should be 25 centimeters, model the folds in such a way that the central counter pleat is along the line of the middle of the front, and the right and left one-sided fold should coincide with the lines raised seams along the bodice.
We cut the bodice blanks along the modeling lines.
The back is modeled as shown in the second drawing. We move the tackle dart to the side. We cut the back at the waist. We draw a basque, the length of which should be 25 centimeters. You can optionally make a slit or vent on the back of the skirt.
We sew the peplum between the bodice and the skirt of the dress, clearly along the waistline.
Cut out peplum dresses
To sew an original dress, we will need a piece of dress fabric (crepe or some other mixed fabric). Length – approximately 2.2 meters, width – 1.45 meters. You should also purchase hidden zipper 50 centimeters long and sewing threads in the color of the fabric.
From the selected fabric we cut out dress blanks and two sleeve blanks (pay attention to the picture above). Blanks purple We cut out two of each, cut out the pink ones, one with a fold.
In addition, we additionally cut out the hem facing for the front and back neckline (we cut the facing without seams, that is, we fold the paper pattern blanks together and trace along the front and back neckline; the width of the facing should be four centimeters).
The seam allowance is one and a half centimeters, and the hem of the dress and peplum is four centimeters.
How to sew a dress with a peplum
On the skirt blanks we baste and sew down the darts and side seams. Sew the seams along the sides and shoulders of the top of the dress.
We sew the basque blanks along the side seams. We fold the allowance along the bottom of the peplum and sew it with a hidden seam. We put folds on the peplum and cover them. We baste the peplum to the skirt, then we baste the upper part of the dress, and attach it. We baste the basque along the middle of the back and then sew it as a single layer.
We put folds on the sleeves and sew down the seams. We sew the sleeves into the armholes and sew them together. We sew a hidden zipper along the middle line of the back. We process the neckline with an undercut facing.
We turn the sleeves up at the bottom and hem them with a hidden seam, and we turn up the allowance along the hem of the dress and sew them with a hidden seam. The dress is ready!
Business dress with peplum: video master class
Patterns and sewing of a lace dress with a peplum
This incredibly elegant and truly feminine dress should be in every girl's wardrobe! Cute ruffles and ruffles at the waist hide minor flaws and emphasize rounded hips, making almost any figure ideal. In this master class we will learn how to sew this dress with a peplum yourself, especially since even a novice seamstress can do it! Patterns for sizes 44 and 46 are given at the very end of the lesson. We recommend saving them and printing them in A4 format and then gluing them together as shown in the last photo.
During the sewing process we will use the following tools and materials:
- cut jacquard fabric or taffeta 1.5 by 1.4 meters;
- approximately 1.2 meters of lace ribbon to match the fabric with scallops along the longitudinal sides, ribbon width – 34 centimeters;
- approximately 1.2 meters of contrasting lace ribbon with scallops along the longitudinal sides, ribbon width – 15 centimeters;
- one zipper to match the fabric, 57 centimeters long;
- satin bias tape for the neckline and armhole;
- matching hook and eye.
Important! The meterage of the lace depends on the location of the scallops and patterns, since the patterns and scallops of the braid must converge after the final processing of the seams.
We print out the patterns of the required size at 100% scale, then glue the A4 sheets together and cut out the patterns. We draw part A in the form of a rectangle.
Layout of blank patterns
Blanks by numbers (pay attention to the layout plan):
- bodice and peplum back 20;
- bodice front and peplum 21;
- skirt – back panel 22;
- skirt – front panel 23;
We lay out the parts blanks on a canvas folded in half, as shown in the layout diagram. We cut out the blanks, taking into account seam allowances of one and a half centimeters for the middle sections of the back and one centimeter for all the rest. Add two centimeters to hem the bottom of the frills and four centimeters to hem the bottom of the dress.
Sewing a dress with lace inserts and frills: master class
Stage one
We start by processing the darts on all workpieces. Next, we grind and iron the folds along the markings (to the lines that determine the location of the edges of the lace ribbon) on the front and back.
We hand-sew contrasting lace trim onto the front and back of the bodice, along the top edges only. We sew the lace braid to match the details of the skirt by hand (we sew both edges of the braid).
We sew the sections of the back fabric of the skirt from the vent to the fastener.
We cut the allowances of the side and back central sections at the waist level on the front and back of the bodice. This is done in order to process the seams of the frills separately from the dress.
Then we bend the lace ribbon and the peplum, from the inside we sew the upper sections of the skirt blanks onto the waist line of the front and back of the dress according to the markings (we start and end the line near the seam lines, that is, we do not grind the seam allowances).
We sew down the side sections, bending the peplum. Iron the seams.
We sew down the side sections of the frill (here it will be more convenient to use a single-horned foot), and press the seams.
We process the bottom edge of the peplum into a hem. Sew the bottom edge of the contrasting lace ribbon to the frill.
We edge the back middle sections of the peplum, bending the top and bottom edges of the edges inward. Iron the edged seam allowances to the wrong side and hem them by hand.
Stage two
Sew the zipper using sewing machine in two steps (above and below the waist level) so that the back edges of the peplum do not fall under the seams. Sew a hook and eyelet along the waistline on the frill.
On the back panel of the skirt we make a vent with a single allowance on the inside.
We process the bottom of the skirt into a hem.
We edge the neckline with bias tape, bending the cross sections of the tape inward.
We fold the edged seam allowance to the wrong side and hem it by hand or stitch it.
We process the armhole cutouts in the same way as the neckline, connecting the edges of the trim in the least noticeable places.
Ready-made patterns for size 44:
Ready-made patterns for size 46:
Sheath dress with peplum: video MK
