Hairstyles of Maria Antoinette. Rococo style hairstyles: historical and modern options

The era of Rococo has long passed, but the echoes have been preserved until now. And it is not only the works of art of that time, but also fashion elements. Many still break their heads over how to make a hairstyle in the style of Rococo or repeat makeup. And this is really not easy.

General Provisions on Rococo Hairstyles

The hairstyles of the Rococo era were distinguished by their intricateness. At first it was just cradted hair raised up. But then they began to be done too high, with a large number of jewelry, which used flowers, feathers, ribbons, pearls ... It was difficult to do something with their own hair, so each court lady had a personal or coming master hairdresser.

Sometimes the hairstyle was done so long and painfully that the woman then wore her week. She tried to walk and sleep very carefully so that each curl remained in his place. Sometimes a hat was woven right in the champper, which made an image even more bizarre. But this is the lady and sought. Hairstyles Rococo were a certain standard of style.

Rococo today

Modern girls do not even imagine what works could the masters make a hairstyle. After all, they did not have a mousse, no hair lacquer, nor a fluff ... Today, hairstyles Rococo are rarely used for everyday socks. More often they are made to show mod or theatrical productions. Wedding hairstyles are also popular in Rococo style. Detailed step-by-step instructions There are no, but there are basic provisions that can be guided.

  1. Do not spare hair varnish. Employe them every curl, each strand;
  2. No bang If you have it, it will have to lay it into a hairstyle, fixing varnish;
  3. All hairstyles Rococo are based on a high patch, so be prepared that hair after planning will be confused;
  4. Almost any laying can be masked under Rococo thanks to accessories. Peen ideas on the Internet, study the vintage portraits of the court ladies and try to make a hairpin with your own hands.

Rococo Bride

If you at your wedding decided to recreate the atmosphere of this era and chose the appropriate fluffy dress, it is necessary to lay hair in the style of that time. With their own hands, it is unlikely to do this, so most often the brides are addressed to the salons or their hand-sized girlfriends. Imagine a step-by-step scheme for hairstyles in Rococo style.

Recreate a giant hairstyle for a wedding should not. The bride will be uncomfortable, and it is difficult to do something like this at home. Therefore, as a sample, we choose the option presented in the photo below. Modestly, modern, but in the Spirit Rococo - with a pile and without bangs.

  1. We take a big strand from his forehead and make a nobody;
  2. Fix it with varnish and create a volume. We tempt the invisibility on the top of the scuff;
  3. The rest of the hair is collecting. The photo shows smooth styling, but if desired, the hair can be previously. If there are beautiful waves on your head, it will be closer to that era. Locks will not forget lacquate;
  4. From the tail, we take small strands, curled them with the catch and with the help of invisible and the studs fix on the head;
  5. The resulting curls should be located on the head so as to completely hide the gum holding the tail.

The greater the bulk, and the higher you will make the tail, the more your stying will be similar to Rococo. If your hair is very thick, then you can not do the tail, but not all of them strands. Decorating wedding hairstyles in Rococo style can be in any way. Better if it will be satin ribbons in colour wedding dress, Flowers, various accessories, feathers.

Video: Rococo hairstyle options

Rococo style philosophy defined women. "Women reign," Pushkin said about the time when Roccoco was only engaged. Rococo considers the main thing in life - a holiday, sophisticated pleasure and love. The game, the "Art seem" in life reached such perfection in this age that the theater with his conventions on the stage - Merk.

Throughout the XVIII century. Sensuality and sophistication will determine the style of female aristocratic clothes. In the fashion, a thin figure, a flexible waist, soft rounded lines of the thighs, a small head, a small high breast, small hands, a thin neck, a narrow shoulders - a woman resembled elegant porcelain statuette.

All aristocrats, be it luxurious Marquis de Pompadour or Virtuous Maria Teresia, with light hands Duchess of Shrewsbury, wore moderate bouffant skirts On the frame and small, modest, slightly swimming hairstyle, decorated with bouquets or lace pallium.

Marquis de Pompadour

Austrian Empress Maria Teresia

The puff of the skirt has harmonized with hairstyle and was relatively small

However, with the advent of Maria-Antointetti Panier (in Russia - Fijms), gradually acquired simply frightening dimensions gradually acquired. By the 1725th year, they reached 7 and more feet with a diameter, as a result of which the round Panier is replaced with double fitihs, when two half-welded forms (for each thigh separately) were fed to the waist.

Skirt with Panny "with elbows"

This skirt with Panny "Gondola" (flat in front and rear)

However, the width of such a skirt created its owner a lot of inconvenience .. In particular, it was impossible to sit in the carriage or go to the door. French tailors soon improved this model, offering a witty design, the truth is quite complicated: the metal panny, the individual parts of which were attached to the hinges and were movable. They were controlled by tapes released through small cuts on the surface of the skirt.

As the skirt width increased and the height of the ladies hairstyles grew. It all started modestly ... :-)

However, already in the 70s, the whole structures with a height of 50 to 100 cm are hairstyles, the construction of which for several hours is engaged in tempting hairdressers-Куаферы.

The era of hairdressers, marked by the appearance of the hairstyles of the Queen Flowers, decorated with breadfalls and cornucopia.

Opponent with each other, the metropolitan kuafeni was performed not only by unprecedented hairstyles, but also unheard of names for them: "Zodiac", "stormy waves", "Hunter in the bushes", "Mad dog", "Duchess", "Hermit", "Cabbage", "Musketer", "Polysadnik", "Angel Smile", "Flourishing Friend", "Adorable Easy".

The creativeness of the virtuoso of the hairdresser and Hatter Leonar Ottos on the nicknamed Bolyar - "Magnificent" and unpretentious fantasy of Queen Maria-Antointetti gave the world such masterpieces as the "explosion of sensitivity", "Sweistance", "Secret Passion". In comparison with the pale "non-wellhead" or a modest "butterfly" of the previous period, these were huge, complex combined hairstyles, which constituted the whole with the headdress. They were reflected international events, success in the technique.

Headdes, of course, existed on their own. A whole direction in the creation of a hat, came up with the famous maestro: "mood hats", - so called bizarre structures, inscribed in no less bizarre hairstyles of exquisite ladies. They were intended to express secret thoughts and feelings of the person who put on such a hat.

Convenience, grace and beauty were sacrificed to Her Majesty fashion. Despite the obvious inconvenience of such hairstyles - the ladies slept, putting their heads on special stands, special frames were put on their heads and this support was haired by hair, masking iron or wooden bars. Tens of tensions, studs, lipsticks and powders were used for such high hairstyles - Kuafeni was invented and embodied on all new and new types of "artificiality", trying to please all tastes, preferences, as well as considerable with political change. The number of varied hairstyles has constantly increased. In the book "Praise hairdressers, directed by the ladies" there were 3774.

Rococo style originated in Western Europe several centuries ago. What is so special in this style and why does he still cause admiration for many representatives of weak gender?

Hairstyles in the style of Rococo

The first half of the Rococo period was distinguished by neat and sufficiently humble hairstyles. But after a while, a period of incredible and intricate hairstyles come. At first, the hair was simply whipped and smoothly combed, giving the shape of the egg. Further through the themes laid two dense tubular curls from the ear to ear. Behind the hairstyle was fucked by Shignon. Instead, the curl used the book. Decorated with flowers, and curls - pearls.

Rococo style with its unimaginable hairstyles is owned by the court wigmacher Leonard of Ottos on nicknamed the Bolyar. Hairstyles in the style of Rococo demanded a huge amount of powder, lipstick, studs and other devices. That is why the hairstyle did not disassemble several days or a whole week. The ladies slept on special head restraints that kept all this magnificence on the head.

Separate hats were used to create an image. The famous "mood hats" were bizarre structures that were embedded in the hairstyle and had a certain meaning. Rococo style decorations for hair styling have become an integral part of the image. Created whole miniatures displaying political events, theatrical moments and much more. Later, chiffon waves, jewels, feathers and flowers began to decorate hairstyles. The Bolyar was managed to create decorations from everything that it came under his arm, and the ladies were in complete delight.

Rococo Stylewear

  1. Rococo dresses remained lush. First, the skirts in the style of Rococo became a little less, but over time they rose again large sizesAt the same time the frame has become an oval form. The bodice of the dress gradually stretched down slightly below the waist. The upper part of the rococo dresses began to resemble a triangle, the neckline remained very open. A clear border is characteristic of the image of a woman in the style of Rococo: the upper part is a small bodice, and he goes into an incredibly lush and bulk skirt. Sleeves dresses to the elbow are noticeably narrowed, they are decorated with cascade lace and ribbons.
  2. Rococo style costume is difficult to imagine without a set of tapes. In addition, there were often many living or artificial colors in clothes. It was during this period that the flowers began to use for the first time to decorate clothing and hairstyles in the rococo style. Satin and Atlas were popular from the fabrics. The fact is that such fabrics make it possible to create many folds and perfectly harmonize with matte lace, which was the distinctive features of Rococo style.
  3. Rococo Style Accessories also have their own distinctive features. Much attention was paid to the bottom linen. Since the neckline was frank, part of the lingerie was always in sight. In this period, women begin to wear stockings, both white and brighter shades. Underwear is made of silk using lace and embroidery. Large importance was attached to couplings, fans and gloves. It is these images that were designed to serve cavaliers signals.

Rococo Makeup

Rococo style has focused on tender, bedtime. Used soft blue, pale yellow, pink and gray shades. All the ladies looked young and young devices not older than twenty years. Such an effect was achieved with the help of the roast and powder. Sometimes the use of cosmetics played a cruel joke. It happened that too thick layer of makeup so cheated the face of a woman that she did not recognize her own husband. The face was really young in appearance, but completely lifeless and go to the mask. Not rarely ladies were fond of perfume. Very popular there were smells of patchouli, neroli, violet root and pink water.

Introduction

The theme of this diploma work: "Stylized hairstyle in the style of Rococo."

The purpose of the graduation work is to create stylized images that will affect the relationship between the Rococo era and modern modes in the hairstyle, its form, color scheme.

The tasks of work are:

Explore the options for creating hairstyles in the Rococo era;

Investigate changes in the technology of hairstyle of the Rococo era;

Choosing an image from a variety of options and its stylization.

The subject of the study is the development of hairdresser's art in the Rococo era of antiquity to the present day.

The object of the study is - hairstyle as an integral part of the image and style.

Rococo - style, carrying traits, refinement, some manneriness and sensuality. Elegant decorativeness, intimacy, exaggeration of curved smooth lines - this is what determines this style.

In the design of the interiors, complex stucco and carved patterns, curls, sinks are introduced, the finish is characterized by sophistication and ease. In the decoration of inner chambers use light silk, gilding, china. Rococo style was distinguished by bizarre asymmetry and shapes. Its flourishing falls on the period of the reign of the French king Louis XV. This is the time when the aristocracy closes in its cozy Mirka, conducting life in countless festivals, balas, masquerades, hunting, picnics and ... love adventures.

The original costume was completed with the adorable female head with a significantly diminished smooth hairstyle. But in the second half of the XVIII century, the hairstyle "grows up" up, sometimes high to 70 centimeters.

Famous hairdressers together with velocities create still lifes from flowers, ribbons, ornamental studs on their heads, ribbons, decorative studs and feathers; Even whole ships with raised sails; Windmills, bridges and much more, right up to garden architecture.

Men were released from the bobs of the book, and we wore the back long braid. A little later, white powdered wigs were entered into the fashion, with twisted letters, a pigtail and a bow behind.

The "Rococo Rococo Epoch", most relevant not only in our time, but also at all times. This is our past and this is our future, because life, culture, art and new directions are not in place, they develop with us and with each era are committing new and new discoveries and coups.

Topic: "Stylized hairstyle of the Rococo era" is very relevant and could well come up for podium shows and contests, as well as in theaters and movies.

Chapter 1. Analysis of preparation for the implementation of developed images

1.1 Historic and modern fashion vision Rococo

In the first half of the 18th century, Rococo style appears, which, as it, completes the development of the Baroque style. Rococo decorative style, carrying fragility, sophistication, some manneriness and sensuality. These features were present in male and female hairstyles.

Rococo flourishing falls for the period of the reign of the French king Louis XV (Fig. 1). This is the time when the aristocracy closes in its cozy Mirka, conducting life in countless festivities, balas, masquerades, hunting, picnics and love adventures. The style of that era was traited fragility and refinement, manneriness and sensuality. The domestic world is in the focus.

Women dominated in secular salons. The desire to like the prevailed need to all and caused clothing to life, emphasizing sensual forms of the body. Everything, absolutely everyone wanted to be young (eternally young!): To hide age, the hair covered the layer of powder hiding gray, cheeks strongly blundered.

Movement, the gait was developed with the teachers of the "good manner", even sitting at the table, legs inserted into special pads, escaping them to the "third position." No wonder the XVIII in the "gallant age", a century of powders, lace, menuet, a century of a feminine man. Aristocratic costumes glittered gold and precious stones. Official clothing, service, salon and even homemade were equally magnificent. Even instead of buttons we wore jewels, and the front dresses, even the most expensive, put on only one time.

The bulk forms of clothing Baroque moved into the past, the dress as if he had gained human dimensions again. Pumping and solemnity was changed by the capricious and whim, asymmetry won harmony. Free Baroque Waving Dresses, as it were, have fallen and acquired more specific forms, the details of the costume decreased and became more refined. Noticeable changes in the face did not happen.

Female suit (Fig. 2) Graceing and ease distinguish silhouette women's costume of that time: Narrow shoulders extremely thin waist, highly raised chest, rounded line hips, etc. Again in the fashion dresses on iron hoops, the skirts became wider and purchased a dome-shaped form.

In the second half of the century, the skirt is greatly expanding on the parties, its round form turns into an oval (stretched in the sides and fightered in front and rear). Boca skirts are so elongated that the cavalier could not go with the lady near, but he walked ahead, leading her hand. Sometimes around the waist just strengthened small carcasters - Fijms, elongated in the sides and flattened in front and rear. The waist is clutched with a corset, strongly lifting the chest, slightly open a shallow wide cut. The neckline around the neck and on the chest is draped with a flirty golk (often with a fringe). Later it raises the chin, skillfully creating the visibility of high breasts, fashionable at the time. This fashion was introduced by the spouse of Louis X Queen of Maria-Antoinette (Fig. 3), which possessed perfectly beautiful small but high bust.

Narrow in the elbows sleeves, like a cut-out, decorated with a cascade of flowing lace, ribbons and pose (gold, silver or misery (copper, tin) tape). Large importance is also attached to small additions to clothing. These include fan, which was the necessary part of the skirting skill, Pompadour's handbag for countless cosmetic smallest things, gloves and coupling.

Fig. 2. Women's dresses

Fig. 3. Queen of Maria Antoinette

Especially flirtary looks like shoes - small and elegant, as in general, the whole costume, with a deep neckline and a large heel of a pre-curved shape. The front suit of colored stockings with gold and silver embroidery were complemented, in the second half of the century - white silk stockings with an openwork ornament or an embroidered arrow. Ladies' shoes at that time was made of colored leather, brocade, satin, velvet. Parchy satin shoes were expanded with colored silks, pearls, gold and silver threads, stones (Fig. 4).

Fig. 4. Female shoes

In Rococo style clothes, a very strongly exposed body, much attention was paid to the female underwear - a lower skirt with a swollen blouse - negligee (from French Neglige - negligent). Silk, abundantly decorated with gold and silver, embroidery and lace, it becomes the subject of the pride of the ladies (Fig. 5).

Fig. five. Underwear and corsets

The hairstyles of the 18th century are very interesting to their magnificence and diversity. After all, according to the history of the hairdresser's art (and especially in the era of the majestic, luxurious, sophisticated and pathoral rococo, masters on hair laying were called and equated to the status of outstanding and gifted artists), no gorgeous hairstyle of a secular person, like an impressive sculpture or masterpiece, not There was analogue in any part of the world. That is, each talented and claimed hairdresser already in the 18th century guaranteed the exclusivity of his creation.

In general, frankly, it is unmatched and amazing, fantastic and luxurious hairstyles of the 18th century and for influential men of that time, and for the court favorite, they made a revolution in the world of fashion, aesthetic worldview, artistic thinking in general and in hairdresser's art - in particular. A clear case, like any art with a certain proportion of the subjective artistic globility of the Creator, the skill of the hairdresser was referred to the modern realities and focused on the possibility, needs and spirit of the era. Therefore, many hairstyles of the 18th century are inextricably linked with the most important historical events. For example, to commemorate the descent to the water of the Royal Frigate "Admiral" (Fig. 6), the hairstyles of the 18th century A la Sailing ship entered, perfectly fixed on the top of the exquisite thin lady.

After 1770, the heyday of hairdressers occurred during the late Rococo period. Women's hairstyles. The original costume was completed with the adorable female head with a significantly diminished smooth hairstyle. But already in the second half of the XVIII century. Hairstyle again "grows up" up, sometimes high to 70 centimeters. Moreover, it occurs almost in proportion to how more and more skirt is expanding on the hips. Famous hairdressers together with velocities create still lifes from flowers, ribbons, ornamental studs on their heads, ribbons, decorative studs and feathers; Even whole ships with raised sails; Windmills, bridges and much more, up to the garden architecture (Fig. 7). High hairstyles made with fat, lipstick, pins, ostrich feathers. The baskets with fruit or horns of abundance watered on a high hairstyle. The hairstyle of the frigate was especially popular - a gouring from the hair in the form of a sailing ship at the top of the head. Such a hairstyle did not disassemble several days, while sleep was used head restraints that gave the opportunity to keep the hairstyle on weight.

Only after drinking in a private


Epoch Rococco

XVIII century It was a century of the heyday of female hairstyles and wigs. Never a variety of fashion and her "dramatic" were not shown so obviously as in the Rococo era. Between the two extremes - from high hairstyle to low and on the contrary - fashion was constantly fluid. In the first half of the XVIII century women's hairstyles France continued to be cumbersome and heavy. Basically they repeated silhouettes of hairstyles "A la fontanda" with minor changes. Soon high hairstyle 2 feet (62 cm) begins to fall and gets the name "Fontanda-Dresser" - "convenient".


Bourgeois wives wore hairstyles quarrels: "A la Thorbit", "A la Muton". In 1712, the "Fontand" becomes not fashionable and disappears. King Louis XIV loses their former interest in fashion and completely subordinates the influence of his last favorite Madame Madamenon, a pious and modest woman wearing a ridiculous, surrendered hairstyle, which received the ulcer name "humility". All court ladies were forced to be combined "A la Mentenon" .

Since 1725 (at the court of Louis XV), small, elegant hairstyles that are strongly powdered are taken into fashion. These hairstyle called "small powdered". They were almost the same for men and women. The hair curled into the lung curls, like the sinks and stacked around a wide wreath around the head, leaving the head of the smooth. In women, two more snake-shaped curls were present in the hairstyle, which descended on a very decolted chest. This hairstyle was worn by Countess Kossel, the favorite of Kurfüstra Saxon August II, so the hairstyle called her name.


Maria Leshchinskaya, Polka by origin, paid a lot of attention to his appearance and wardrobe. 1725, she married Louis XV and made a lot for fashion development at the royal court. Hairstyle countess Kossel she improved, decorated with feather and brook, and called her "Polonaise" .



Entry into the throne of Louis XVI was marked by two things: unprecedented growth of public debt of France and the appearance of a new hairstyle "Queen Flowers" , decorated with breadfall and cornucopia. It was the beginning of hairdressers. Very soon fashion will push the former, more modest hairstyles of the early Rococo. The tone asks the queen itself. In the 60s - 70s, hairstyles are already whole structures of half the meter, which build skaphoric hairdressers. Work lasts for several hours. The Parisian "Courrier Des Dames" gives the next advice to fashion: "Each lady, who wants to bring his hair in line with the last tastes, should acquire an elastic pad, exactly the corresponding sizes of her head. Setting, frightened and yesterday's hair, you need to put the pad and raise the pillow to the desired height ... ". Coming among themselves, the metropolitan kuafeni was performed not only invisible hairstyles, but also unheard of names for them: Zodiac, "Stormy Waves", "Hunter in the bushes", "Mad Dog", "Duchess", "Hermit", "Cabbage", "Musketer", "Polysadnik", "Angel Smile", "Flourishing Friend", "Adorable Easy" .

Bolyar - Virtuoso Fashion .

The brilliant Leonar of Osti on the nicknamed Bolyar - "Magnificent", was a court hairdresser and her hats Master of Her Majesty Mary-Antoinette. "... a virtuoso of fashion is a sophisticated, magnifier, mannered, in one word, a real couture, he fully corresponded to that type, numerous samples of which we are well known. His contemporary - poet, left the laudatory lines dedicated to the Bolyar - Archhimeda Fashion, the Wizard, who in his luxury store disposes of the client's tastes:

Bolyar, all masterpieces, such brilliant, Who you decorated your fatherland, Confirm your huge talent. You hold the precious rod, That turned the French Empire In the empire of happiness and extravagancies.

The Bolyar presented the Queen made by him the fragrant rose itself, the core of which was opened, becoming a miniature protector of Her Majesty. It seemed very offended for Rosa Becheng, which sought to one-chosen of his high-ranking cmails and, she had long refused to fulfill the orders of Princess de Lammbal, the culprit of the Bolyar dating with Maria Antoinetta.

The nearest environment of Maria Antoinette was also clients of the Boyra. Madame de Matignon, famous for his bold leavings (even on the day of execution she remained faithful to herself: she climbed the scamped and in a gorgeous dress), concluded with great Quefoom Agreement: Twenty-four thousand Livra and he builds her new hairstyle every day. These hairstyles were so high that "the ladies rode in their carriages, standing on his knees or bent to the limit. Their faces are inserted into the middle of the body ... "- so wrote in 1775.

The hairstyles demanded a lot of studs, lipsticks, powders, so she was trying to preserve as long as possible, without disassembling several days, and then weeks. During the dream, the lady used special head restraints that allowed to keep the hairstyle on weight. The same famous Leonar Bolyar was the first creator of hairstyles that made a single whole with a headdress.

Creativity of the virtuoso of the hairdresser and the unpretentious fantasy of the queen gave the world such masterpieces as the "explosion of sensitivity", "voluptuous", "secret passion". In comparison with the pale "non-wellhead" or a modest "butterfly" of the previous period, these were huge, complex combined hairstyles, which constituted the whole with the headdress. They reflected international events, success in the technique

Hats , of course, existed on their own. The whole direction in the creation of the hats, came up with the famous maestro: "Mood Hats" - Thusked bizarre structures, inscribed in no less bizarre hairstyles of exquisite ladies. They were intended to express secret thoughts and feelings of the person who put on such a hat. Butterflies were crowded around the heads of frivolous ladies - a whole pack of news of love spoke about the search or encouragement of flirting with a cavalier, sarcophages and mourning urns talked about Melancholia because of the deceased love. For the Duchess, De Charter, who in 1775 her son (the future Louis Philippe), Leonar came up with a hairstyle with a squeezing luxurious feeder who held a child in his arms. Little figures - baubles have become a necessary tool to create a planned image. From now on, they have an independent life in the constant process of creating a costume. They allowed the modists and kuaforatras to embody any fantasies: political events, battles and victories, lawsuits, theater successes, salon gossip - everything served as an excuse for creating new decorations, finishing new models of hats and hairstyles.