Unfortunately, the choice of varnish, as well as the search for the selected brand - the process is quite time-consuming and cheap.
Start with the fact that the opinions of polymerrs about varnish are divided into two opposite camps: some prefer to work with specialized varnishes of plastics manufacturers; The second is ready to try out the varnishes used for decoupage, furniture, parquet and floors, automotive, yacht varnishes and an assortment offered by artistic and stationery stores.
But even if you are not ready to experiment, but prefer to purchase a specialized varnish, intended for use on plastic, be prepared for your choice may well disappoint you. Unfortunately, at the moment it is in the market of "plastic" varnishes in such a way that it is impossible to argue that some one (or several) varnishes are perfectly suitable for you, and you buy what suits you. Practice shows that the same lacquer behaves differently on different products, among different masters. So, in any case, I think you have to go for some experiment.
On my experience I can say that there was one varnish, which personally satisfied me in all positions, it is a lacquer Fimo on a mineral basis. Why was it? Because the manufacturer of varnish - Eberhard Faber, stopped his release. This company also has another varnish, but it is water based on a water basis, and the result of the varnish is not even happy with this varnish. The coating is performed fragile, to the touch resembles rubber, and with the slightest damage - it is easily removed from the surface. Gives a small yellowness on white and bright products.
Making conclusions from that material that I read about the lacquer studio, I can state their main drawbacks:
Varnish greatly foams, leaves bubbles on the surface, so it is necessary to lacken very carefully and slowly,
Very liquid, leaves a super thin layer, so if you want to achieve a "glass" effect, then you need to put a lot of varnish layers,
Lipnet to toothpicks, i.e. The grip with a tree is stronger than with plastic, as a result, when trying to remove the toothpick, it can break down (break) or damage the lacquer layer around the toothpick.
Nevertheless, many masters successfully apply studio varnishes, and they remain very pleased.
For example, the opinion of Elena "Shimshoni":
"I can write my feelings. I work now only with him, and with matte, and glossy.
It lies smoothly, without bubbles. Just do not shake a jar !! It is necessary to stir it a little tassel before applying, and you can use.
The glossy studio is pushing, lies with a thick layer. He dries out excellent bright gloss.
For a better result, the first layer of any varnish should be applied very thin, then add two more.
In order for the toothpick to stick - you do not need to smear it with a varnish !;) And to raise sliding droplets, if a lot of varnish have applied. In general, any varnish is better to apply less than the drops not to wipe. And you can fit the next layer.
Studio I loved more than Future Polish, which is perfectly applied on round beads, but it feels badly on flat products, often with bubbles. Studio I never gave bubbles or on flat, nor on round beads. "
I will tell you and your impressions of Studio.
Glossy Lac.
He was bubbled. Whatever the brush, even if you do not chat and do not breathe at all. It was easier with small products, but with large, such as cigarette, covered smoothly it was simply unrealistic. Everything was stamped, polished and degreased.
But it was ideal for the varnish beads, i.e. That method where the brush is not involved. Two layers - and everything glitters like a glass. Toothpicks I usually do not dip in varnish, so I do not know, at the expense of sticking :)
It is impossible to apply a thick layer. Especially if the bank is fresh. When drying the thick layers, it happened that he gave cracks. Unfortunately there are no photos to demonstrate. Also, if you apply a thick layer unevenly, then so you dry everything :) i.e. If in some place the layer of varnish was a little thicker than in others, it will be noticeable on a dried product - it will seem that there is an additional layering. Again, it is fundamentally in large products - in small not so critical.
Matte Studio.
As a result, I used it as glossy :) Only more layers, it is applied easier than glossy. I did not have cases with cracking. But the perfect glossiness still does not give it.
In short, the studio is a lacquer who is absolutely not able to smoke. Bubbles are not bursting, the layer is uneven - as you put it, so it will look. If the surface had some disadvantages, he would not hide them, but emphasize. Often after varnishing, I noticed flawed in products, although in uncovered state they were invisible. Matte varnish more wear-resistant than glossy. With an enhanced sock (again we are talking about cigarettes, which for all pockets hang out and always fall) Glossy varnish often gave jerseal. There is a varnish, but not together with plastic.
About applied to hot products. Here you need to be very careful, as the lacquer dries very quickly, almost instantly, and there is an option that you just do not have time to apply a full layer of varnish onto all the product. Then the place of "joint" of varnish already dried and what was applied slightly later.
And I will add to the types of varnishes. Specially for plastics there are still glossy varnish Schmuck-Lack from Viva Decor (Germany) . Water based. It is worth looking for it in those places where Pardo plastic is sold, also from Viva Decor.
In Kiev, this is a shop "artist's shop", i.e. It can be in all stores "Black River".
This is:
The label says that it is designed specifically for varnishing jewelry from polymer clay.
It is more thick than the studio, to the tooths sticks very strongly (it was after that lacquer, I stopped them to dip in the varnish at all :) gives a dense glossy film. Does not be brought, not removed - in general it is more stable than the studio, in my opinion.
I personally, he likes almost everything more - significantly less bubble and easier applied. There is only one nuance: it smells like a rotten fish :) But, in my opinion, it only seems to me that I get used to the smell) I use it for about 4 months and still suits everything.
By the way, also baked with him, and everything was fine.
Selection of varnish not intended for plastic.
And now let's talk about cases when you do not buy a specialized varnish, designed for plastics, and by samples and errors, select any other varnish, for plastics it is not at all intended.
Let's start with what varnishes do not need to be used to cover plastics.
1. Nail polish. Although nail polish often enjoy newcomers, - due to the fact that the necessary varnish has not yet been found, and try to complete the finished product already really want, - yet try to gain patience. Even if you acquire such nail polish, which is very well to lie on the plastic (according to reviews), but are expensive. Simple logic - how quickly "gets pleasure" on your nails lacquer? Let even dear and high quality. Yes, and not even the speed, but the fact that "sees." That's the same on plastic. It is not intended for nail polish to be durable. Plus, after a while, such a varnish may well get yellowed or start lip. Believe the opinion of experienced masters, and never cover your products with nail polish.
2. Acrylic varnish For artwork. Such varnishes you can meet in artistic and stationery stores. Moreover, the sales assistant can tell you that such a varnish is perfect for plastics. Do not believe. Such varnishes are mostly not dried on your plastic product. And if dried, bead, maybe it will be a sticky or one will be one with time.
3. It often met the Council on the network not to use for plastics as varnishes on an alcohol basis (or aldehyde). Search engines do not issue information on Aldehyde varnishes, they say there are only phenol-aldehyde. Unfortunately, I'm not strong in chemistry, so it was precisely as part of these varnishes can harvest plastic, could not harm. The only shortcomings of such varnishes considered their fragility and the ability to darken into the world, which in itself already indicates inapplicability for plastic decorations. Here is a description of the bolshoi Soviet Encyclopedia, if any of the readers can explain something about phenol-aldehyde varnishes, I will be very grateful.
Now about what varnishes need to be bought.
It is best in a building store to ask the furniture lacquer, and it is better for an acrylic polyurethane parquet (acrylic polyurethane) on a water basis. Look for sure that in its composition there is no latex - it is not friendly with plastic. In addition, note that the UV Rays filter attended, "then your lacquer does not boost with time.
Be prepared that the sellers of building stores did not even hear any acrylic polyurethane varnish, and they will even tell you that there are no such varnishes in nature. Do not be discouraged, and go to another store. These sellers use a Russian varnish classification system, in which there is no acrylic-polyurethane or polyuretone-acrylic. The chemical Russian classification of the foundations for varnishes can be viewed here, and a foreign classification is here.
Try to place an order for the lacquer you need in some large store. Remember, a bunch of nerves, money, effort and time is often leaving for the search for "his" varnish. Patience and good luck to you.
There are many varnishes, and even more opinions about their compatibility with plastic. I read a lot of controversial information on this topic, and I can say that it was incredibly confused, because the same lacquer often had absolutely opposite reviews. Therefore, I will list only those lacquers that were tested by the Master-Polymerers in the case, and which most of the positive responses received.
1. Firm Varathane. Varathane varnish CLAAR WATERBONE DIAMOND WOOD FINISH . This varnish is considered one of the best, verified by generations of foreign masters. Just do not confuse - the name should be exactly the word for word, because the company Varathane has many other varnishes, it is easy to get confused. I at my time, for the absence of the best, I bought the varnish of this company on an oil basis - he did not come up with me. My notes about this here ..
Characteristics: Water base; Three gloss varieties: glossy, matte, semi-wave; Drying time from the manufacturer - 1 hour "on the low".
From the description: "Varnished coating for wooden surfaces An indirect interior with a diamond glitter gives wooden furniture and interior objects. Beautiful shine for many years, preventing wear. Advantages: colorless, not giving yellow, with minimal smell, waterproof. "
2. Firm S. C. Johnson Company. Future Floor FINISH lacquer. Was renamed Pledge® with Future® Shine
Varnish of the same level as in paragraph 1. In different countries Known under different brands: "Parket Plus", "Klear", "Krystal Klear" or "Johnson's One and All", "Klir". Here is the information on varnishes and its counterparts in English, but if you go on the "Future in Russia" link, you can read the information and in Russian. They say this varnish to buy in Russia is even more difficult than Varatan, so see who is interested, on the same site there is a form for an order via the Internet from Russia, with pre-WM or Indexmoney.
Characteristics: Basis of aqueous, acrylic varnish. Drying "on the low" 20-30 minutes. Between the layers it is recommended to withstand 8 hours.
Characteristics: Water-soluble, base polyurethane, dries a layer in 2 hours, you can put a lot of layers, and then there will be a practically glass effect. Full drying from 18 to 24 hours.
4. Dufa Meffert AG, Germany, Varnish Aqua - Parkettlack. Colorless (transparent), forming a glossy or coolant coating. Russian site manufacturer.
Characteristics: Drying - for applying the next layer - 1 hour at a temperature of +15 to +25 C. Water soluble. 24 months storage.
6. Bonatek mega - parquet varnish, polyurethane, water-based. This lacquer "Marina-Kotliar" praises. It dries quickly, but completely dries in a day. Liquid, it is convenient to use it for varnishing dipping.
7. Manufacturer An Synteko, Sweden, Varnish Sadolin Synteko Pro 20 (half-timing), Sadolin Synteko Pro 90 (glossy) - I met on the network only positive feedback on this lacquer.
From the description: - single-component water-soluble polyurethane-acrylic varnishes, providing high-quality appearance and high strength. Used on parquet and wooden floors in living rooms, bedrooms, kitchens, hallways, on stairs. You can also use on the untreated traffic jam and other wooden products. Technical data: Binder polyurethane-acrylic lacquer. "
8. Tikkurila.
Assa varnish and Kiva varnish - Acrylate varnish on a polyurethane basis. Do not yellow.
Please note that Tykkurila has two types - panels (red label) and parquetry (green label), so here for plastics you need a parquetry.
Super unictage lacquer - Uretano-alkyd, does not shy, removed White Spirit.
Feedback: "My alkyd-polyurethane varnish, Ticcurila passed 8 monthly check! It will not stick, not peeling and generally behaves decently :) It is lower than the price than acrylic polutrethane, and sold in small banks, and also gives a flat glass surface, i.e. very much glitters. Of the minuses - yellow beads and dries clock 5, and it is difficult to wash brushes, because it is mixed on White Spirit. "
From the description: "High-quality acrylic varnish. It is used to cover paints with metallic effect, etc., to create a protective layer on any painted surfaces. It has excellent shine, durability, as well as increased resistance to the effect of atmospheric and mechanical effects, aggressive media. "
10. Production lacquer "Yaroslavl Paints" PF 283 (pentafalus) wood and metal, high-gloss , alkyd. Composition: alkyd resin, solvents, siccutiv. Drying each layer of 36 hours.
I myself used this lacquer for some time. Gives a beautiful glossy coating, durable. Disadvantages: It will dry for a very long time - 1 layer of 36 hours, and then a long time of beads to the touch seem to be a little difficult; When applied, it gives foam, yellow and light colors yellow, has a strong sharp smell.
11.Maimeri (Italy), IDEA lacquer Decoupage. Glass-like water-based lacquer for decoupage.
From the description: "Films resistant to scratches, abrasive wear and external influences of a vitreous film. Easy to use. Perfectly protects and gives exceptional water resistance to the decorated surface. For the best result is applied in several thin layers with intermediate drying. After drying, it forms a crystal clear and colorless film with `wet` by glassy glitter. Does not leave traces from the brush. Irreversible. "
12. Firm Darwi, Belgium, Darwi Vernis varnish - clear nail polish, mineral base. In the description on the sites of stores selling this varnish, it is said that it is suitable for any surfaces, as well as for products "own production, such as Fimo". Solvent - alcohol. It is quite popular today in the "polymer" world, many of him are called a completely worthy substitute for mineral firms. Here is a small discussion.
And a small "but": it does not have enough plasticity, i.e. On very thin details, if they are slightly bending, varnish cracks into a small-shallow mesh.
"Drying time to first contact-on a jar is written for 4 hours. It is really a little more. There is something 6-8. Well, and complete drying-day.
I liked the beads covered with a medium most.
They are the most brilliant. Well, in general, like glass. " - The opinion "BOPOHA", taken from here.
14. Aqua Varnish Parquet Poly-R : glossy, silky matte. The basis: acrylic-urethane copolymer.
One-component water-fastened flashing colorless varnishes for internal works. Apply for a protective and decorative parquet cover with a normal operational load, as well as for processing furniture and other products from wood.
After drying, the varnishes form a solid transparent film, resistant to periodic exposure to water and distinguished high wear resistance. Dries "on the low" 20-30 minutes, between the layers you need to withstand 4-6 hours, complete drying of 12-14 hours.
"There are solid varnishes, for example, Poly-R, with a giraffe on a green background - here he has a solid surface, I even polished her shallow skin, then again the varnish, then polished again. The layer is perfect, glass, solid. BUT! When you hit or subsequent drilling can give chips - it was also. You are right, indeed, he is yellow, and the more layers - the stronger. For white and blue things it is not suitable. It is for the rest (black and tunno-red-yellow) - good. The main thing is not to be mistaken - the giraffe must be on a green background. It is a water-based acrylic parquet lacquer. And do not believe the sellers that this does not happen. I personally used a whole bank, I would buy it, but in Moscow, it disappeared without a trace. I especially liked the fact that it can be grinding and applied again. The layer is very beautiful. "
15. Parlex Varnish Varnish from Jacqard - Suitable for those who use pigments, well keeps pigments from the vanity of the drawing, can also be used as a conventional coating varnish. Water based. You can work on paper, clay, metal, wood or plastic, easily replete with water.
Varnish Diamongd Glaze from Judikins - Giving a glassy coating. It has the ability to mix with dyes-based paints, watercolors, perlex pigments, etc. Details in English
Luck Lisa Pavelka's Magic Glos UV Curing Glaze - in the essence of the resin and freezes the thick glassy layer under the ultraviolet lamp. Details in English.
The last two are similar to each other, only pavel lacquer allows you to create a thicker layer. They fall on any surface - paint, glitter, embossing, natural flowers, etc.
Several conclusions about varnishes.
Mineral-based varnishes are badly falling onto a wet surface, they have a majorly sharp smell, often dry long, but at the same time create a faster coating than water-based varnishes.
Water-based varnishes almost do not smell, dry faster (most often), but it is bad to fall on a fatty surface, it happens that we swell in a wet environment, and the coating is extended to be elastic, as if rubber, and with a small damage of the layer can be removed as a film From the whole surface. This is described this situation for example. However, if you put a very thin layer of varnish - you will most likely not notice any problems with him. You still need to not forget to be pretty dry dry beads covered with water-based varnish. During the day, and better than two - not to touch and prevent water from entering.
A water-based varnish has an advantage - if it thickens, it is easily diluted with water to the desired consistency. Here, for example, there is a post about how to dilute Sculpey Glaze Gloss varnish. If the "mineral" varnish thickens, then it is necessary to dilute with solvents with great care, because Some of them come into reaction with plastic. I, for example, diluted the "mineral" lacquer FIMO alcohol with medical. Be sure to read in the instructions for the lacquer - what it is divorced, and then try to apply a small amount on an unnecessary piece of plastics, and watch for a while so that there is no reaction.
Note: There is another variant of the varnishing of plastic products - this is an epoxy. But it is rather the topic for a new article, because there is a lot of epoxide information. Here I will only say that finding the right epoxy is perhaps even more difficult than the desired varnish. But the surface covered with epoxy, it turns out perfectly "glass" and very durable.
Methods of varnishing products of plastic products.
Note: Do not forget to degrease your product from plastics before varnishing, especially if you are going to use water-based varnish. For degreasing, you can rinse beads in warm water with soap, or wipe the surface with an alcohol.
1. Locking with dipping.
To do this, wear a bead on a toothpick or needle (needle), dip in varnish. Take out, and some time rotate the toothpick with a bead around its axis, thereby giving the stroke of the varnish and distributing the varnish evenly on the surface. Stick to toothpick B. poropolone sponge for washing dishes or crumpled with a bunch of foil. A few minutes later, a droplet of glass varnish is formed on the bead, it is necessary to remove it with a soft brush.
But I do not like this way myself and does not apply, because It is very difficult for me to catch the right moment for removing the drop, - if you decide too early, a drop (or influx) will still form; If you get it, the place where you removed the drop may not be registered, because Varnish already thickened.
It is much easier for me to varnish products in the second way:
But an important role at the same time plays the choice of brushes. In order for the surface of the product, the grooves (tracks) lacquer remained, you need to choose a soft brush. Which one? Often the masters advise using a soft synthetic brush or "protein", "speakers". In addition, you can use a soft brush from nail polish.
Note: If your tassel is fluffy, then inside the pile there is a lot of air, and because of this, bubbles can happen on the varnished surface. In order to "expel" the air from the pile of tassels, they advise you to take a little varnish on the brush, and with your fingers (do not forget to wear gloves) squeeze a brush for a while. Also, so that a lot of air does not accumulate inside the pile, they are advised to acquire brushes flat, not round.
3. There is another variant of the lacquering beads- It concerns cases when you have a lacquer in an aerosol can. At first, such a way of varnishing may seem uncomfortable to you (as it was in my case), but, in practice, in practice, you will understand that this way is sometimes literally irreplaceable, for example, when you need to cover a complex surface, with a lot of recesses and protrusions, or when you Varnish the scratched or toned surface, etc.
So, the product varnish from the aerosol can be very simple: the beads ride to the toothpick slowly rotate with one hand, to the other hold the can, and spray the lacquer on the bead. If you have a flat product, for example, a pendant, you can put it on a package or paper, spray, wait for drying, turning over, and repeat the spraying procedure for the inside of the coil.
From the distance from the beads to beads and from the intensity of the lacquer jet will depend on the appearance of your coating: if you keep the aerosol away and spraying the varnish completely, - the surface will turn out with a matte thin coating; If you keep the canister closer and make a stream of varnish intense, it turns out a smooth glossy surface. Just do not hold the aerosol close to the bead - then the head of the lacquer jet is very strong, and foam with air bubbles can be formed on the surface. What kind of distance you need are - determine the experimental way, because Aerosol varnishes are different, respectively and effects are obtained different. What I told, is based on the practice of using the Motip car varnish.
After your product dried finally, you must remove it from the toothpick. We remove the flipping movement, neatly, otherwise it may be damaged by a layer of varnish around the toothpick, or the toothpick itself can break, and stay inside the beads.
And now let's talk about the problems and difficulties you may encounter in the process of varnishing plastic products.
1. Your beads immediately after varnishing or after some time become sticky. This may happen even after a few months, so the varnish can be considered "verified" after the expiration of at least six months.
The cause of the sticky surface can be both "inappropriate" varnish and unfinished plastic. Those. If you baked your product is not enough long, plastic is not polymerized, and the remains of the plastic contained in plastic, react with varnish. Therefore, first of all, if you found that your beads became sticky, you can try to bake them again - yes, it's like that, right together with a varnish ...... at 110-130 degrees 10-15 minutes. But if the re-baking does not help, then you will have to remove the varnish from beads, and pour it with another varnish.
To remove the water-based lacquer from the product, they are advised to put a bead at night into the water with lemon or vinegar, the lacquer will swell and crack and it will be easier for you to remove it. To remove the mineral varnish from the product, you can use the solvent. Carefully read in the instructions for lacquer, which solvent is recommended by the manufacturer. Most often, mineral lacquer with beads remove with alcohol or White spirit. In any case, there is a risk share to spoil the product, because Some solvents can react with plastic.
If the product allows (there is no drawing, images, or complex reliefs), you can stick to the surface with the surface of the sandpaper. The skin is better to take very small (for example, 1000-1500), because you need to try it in a way possible not to damage the surface of the product.
Please note that: To avoid lacquer sticky after varnishing, it is best to leave the product outdoors for a while. Since there are varnishes, which, which seemed to be breathing to the touch, was completely dry, but in fact he has not yet hardened completely. Drying time is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the label, but even if you have existed a long time, do not hurry to pack your products in sachets and boxes. Reconfirm, wait again, you will be firmly confident as a result.
You can also try to cover the bead with another varnish, right on top of the plump. On the Internet, there was notes about the possibility of using one varnish on top of another. The craftsmen shared the experience that they did, and everything is in order.
I will tell you about my experience - I covered for an experiment several beads by car varnish MOTIP on top of the old varnish (there were several variants of various varnishes) - so, on one of the beads (covered with an oil-based varatan), two varnish entered the reaction - the surface foamed and swore. So my advice to you is definitely experimenting on an unnecessary piece of plastic, as varnishes will be lacquered by one on another.
And sometimes there are situations where many times proven by a multitude of masters varnish can give stickiness. It happened to Tatiana "Gekata_ru" with all
Famous Varatan. Read comments to the message on the link, if interested, but the main reason, many considered the troubleshooting of the product.
2. Distribution of the product. As you already understood from paragraph 1, this problem is very important, poorly affects both the strength of the product itself and the strength of the lacquer coating. It is very easy to determine the misfortune: bake a small piece of plastics on your usual design mode, and try to make a hole in it - with a needle, sewn or drill. If at the same time the plastic will crumble and peel into small pieces - your plastic is unfavored. In this case, you need to reinforce the product.
The temperature regime and the booster time of the plastic is indicated on the package, in different plastics - different, but usually this difference is not very large.
Often, the cause of oblimony can be what your oven (stove) does not support the temperature indicated on the regulator scale.
In order to be confident in temperature, you need to use a thermometer. Such thermometers are specialized, they are produced by plastic manufacturers. You can also use a household thermometer for wind wardrobes. I met another advice to use a thermometer for a sauna, but I didn't use it myself.
Measuring the temperature in the oven (stove), pay attention to the fact that your measurements must be separated in time, i.e. If you usually bake plastic for 15 minutes, then measurements you need to do every 5 minutes. This is due to the fact that heating in the oven (stove) can change. On this occasion, Orangejul wrote wanted in the comments to this post:
"I also have a miniper. I don't use it almost - I'm afraid. And it seems like Delong. I expected the best from her, to be honest.
Slightly below, he wrote in the comments to the post of the bath thermometer about the digital multimeter. He has dimension limits, it seems, -400 - +1000 degrees. So for our purposes go :)))
According to his testimony (stunning accuracy), heating in the company occurs according to sinusoid. We set, for example, 110 degrees: heating up to 160-180 (!), Cooling up to 70-80, then heating to 150-160, cooling to 80-90. So further with narrowing the temperature fluctuations to the interval in degrees 50. I describe it by memory. To achieve this interval, the stove must be included about 40-50 minutes. Thus, it is not possible to achieve a constant temperature in the stir. Or as an option to stand near this stove and twist constantly a handle that is very uncomfortable)))
By the way, after buying, they went to the store and tested a few more stoves. They are all like that. Therefore, I am afraid there is a stove plastic. Maybe in the future I will spend some kind of upgrade. Father told that it kind of as possible.
For comparison: in the home oven (electric) when installing at 110 degrees, T-ra rises to 125, and then it decreases and keeps in the 55-115 degrees. Tangible difference, however. But the home oven is a pity. "
3. Divorces and "islands" are formed on the surface.. Most often, this means that your lacquer thickened, or too thick for your work. In this case, they advise to dilute a bit of varnish, cover the surface once with this diluted varnish (as if to brew), and on top of this layer it is already lacquered undivided.
4. When you try to remove the lacquered and dried product from the toothpick, you find that the toothpick sticks to the lacquer coating.How to fix? You can neat the blade to cut the lacquer around the toothpicks. It is possible to heat the product a little in the stove, literally within a few minutes, the varnish coating will become more elastic, and you can remove the toothpick, without fear of chips and damage to the lacquer layer. In addition, it is possible to progress a little, and during the drying of the product when the coating no longer lipates, but it still does not dry up (i.e. it remains elastic) to turn the toothpick inside the product, or to move the bead along the toothpicks.
5. Varnish on beads (especially on white or light) gives yellowness.
This property of your varnish, look at the manufacturer's instruction on the package - is there a varnish of UV filters? - Just they protect the lacquer coating from yellowing. But even if you had a varnish, which gives yellowness, do not hurry to throw it away, you can continue to successfully apply it on dark and yellow plastic colors.
Precautions when working with paint products.
First of all, I would like to call for caution of those who use varnish sprays.
When you spray such a varnish, the "cloud" of small-dispersed "dust" varnish is formed in the air, it settles on the nearby surfaces, enters the eyes and on the mucous nose and mouth. And it turns out that in such a situation there is little work in a well-ventilated room, it is best to go outside to the street for varnishing. Well, at least, on the staircase. It is also very important to have protection in the form of a respirator, and it would be fine, also protective glasses. The remaining recommendations on the use of varnish in an aerosol can, standard: not brought to the fire, stored in an inaccessible place for children, when you get into the mucous membranes, rinse them immediately.
When working with the rest of the varnishes, precautions are usually standard, and you can read about the package, here are the most common ones:
Keep out of the reach of children. Work in a well-ventilated room. When swallowing the composition immediately consult a doctor and show the container or label. Do not drain into sewer. The remnants of the varnish and its packaging should be taken to the harmful waste. It should work with the material, avoiding entering the skin and eyes. To protect your hands, apply rubber gloves. At the end of the work, the tool wash the solvent. If you get on the skin, rinse with water with soap. Use individual respiratory protection tools. Bear from fire!
Successful work and creative success!
baked Varnish for GHG Cerns - Reviews
I failed to achieve simple and familiar requests from search engines or any reviews about Cernit-proof varnishes made by Cernit, so to replenish the world information base of the Polymers, here is my post-overview of the Cernit Polymer Clay Polymer Polymer /
cernit polymer clay varnish, Cernit varnish reviews,
I will start with the clothes that they meet. The jar and the label are very comfortable and thought out. The jar of varnish is not from glass, but from thick plastic - to fear stupid lacquer losses due to the fact that the jar fell and crashed. Instructions for using varnish here, hidden in a multi-layer label that perfectly sticks-hangs. The instruction in Russian is incredibly pleased - it is not necessary to interpret the explanation of the supplier on a non-sticker or guess, whether the seller gave the instructions for use.
Lacquer consistency.
My experience with varnishes - Fimo varnish, sculpey varnish, Vartan varnish, Nod Ticcuril, Ticcurilla varnish Yacht alkyd-urethane.
I really liked the consistency of Cernit - it is not so liquid like a water-based varnishes, not so thick and driving as parquet and yacht varnishes, it is the most consistency in order to be comfortable to dial on the brush without unnecessary dripping droplets, while he Well self-erased. In order to present this consistency, imagine a jar of liquid honey on a hot day - it will be very similar.
Application rules.
The manufacturer gives instructions to cover with matte or glossy varnish the desired product in 1 - 3 layers with an intermediate drying between layers of 1 hour in air. For rapid drying, incl., But, most importantly, to fix the varnish on GHG, the product is set by the desired amount of layers, it is necessary to bake in a pre-heated to 110 degrees Celsius oven for 15 minutes. In this case, the polymer clay CERNIT CERNIT is baked at 130 degrees.
My experience - I baked a few samples according to the instructions, somewhat baked together with the products from Cernit at 130 degrees within 40 minutes - on the external properties of the varnish, the increase in time and temperature of the baking did not affect the external properties.
Purpose coating.
After drying in the oven to the touch, the surface is the same as covered with construction varnishes for a tree or yacht - Gladskaya, when holding a finger with a touch with a slide resistance. When pressing with the power of the nail thumb There is a loaf-dent. Which in the eyes is restored without a trace. Putting a varnish lacquer with a moderate force. Recently, removal nails did not give anything - I did not tear a film with a film, even the coating burr was left. From pure pellery threw the workpiece covered with a glossy varnish cerente for the night in a glass with water from under the tap, in the morning, after 7 hours, pulled out a blank. After staying in the water, the lacquer got a little blessing, only in one place, where there was an impatient lacquer, while trying to pose and contemporary there, the varnish did nothing, but scratch or scratch the lacquer on the billet with the nails after such a bathing could not be. After 5 hours in the air, the workpiece dried, the whiteness disappeared, no properties of the varnish lost.
One fine billet covered with varnish in experimental purposes was bent-twisted in all planes alternately - the varnish was not cracked, obviously stretched along with the workpiece. One whitish spot appeared on the varnish only in the place where the billet angle was pressed to the main part of it 120-130 degrees.
In general, I do not know how even in the short term, this varnish can be painful, but all the usual tests for ordinary loads on the GHG and its lacquer coating, in my opinion, passed on 5 with a plus.
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My reviews are:
- Cernit Glossy Varnish from Darwi is a clean treasure! When applied to 2 layers, it gives a good gloss, when applied to three layers - gloss and gloss can only be compared with alkyd-urethane varnishes for parquet, but, unlike them, the varnish for polymer clay appreciates there is no huge minus in the form of yellowness. It will dry quickly, but it is better to wait for the manufacturer recommended by the manufacturer between the layers. Consistency - Miracle, consumption - medium. For self-evaporation, so that there is no tracks from the brush, you should not apply very thin layers.
- Matte varnish is very good for matte. In fact, a matte varnish coated in 1 layer appreciates the surface can be compared with the "genuine" thoroughly alternating-polished surface of GHG. The coating in 2-3 layers gives a strengthening of the color, the varnishing of the eye will see immediately, but even on bright light there are no glossy glare, there is just satin light gloss. In my opinion, they can cover almost everything where you do not want to see a bright gloss.
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Photos of test samples (test samples were made several years ago from the same pack of FIOO Blue Metallic, Mikashift technique. Where there are 3 samples in the photo - the bottom in the middle is not covered with varnish at all):
To protect products from plastics from the external environment or giving it glossy, it is desirable to cover them with varnish. In addition, the works covered with varnish, an additional depth of color appears.
Unfortunately, not every lacquer can be used for coating, some simply will not dry on plastic, others, although they dry, but begin to stick off after a while.
What varnishes should not be used?
Ordinary nail polish - they have a completely different formula and they can begin to stick out after a while.Lucky for hair - they are not waterproof, in addition, they like to settle dust on them.
Universal acrylic varnishes that are sold in stationery - it is that they often do not dry on plastic.
What varnishes are guaranteed to suit polymer plastic?
1. Specialized, from producers of polymer plastics.Examples:
2. Acrylic coating for water-based wooden floors. Often, the banks still write "polyurethane-acrylic".
Examples:
varnish Varathane Crystal Clear Waterbone - Water-based coating for floor treatment, transparent, without yellowness, stable, high-strength, non-toxic. It happens - glossy / matte / semmatte. 
and Future Floor Finish. These two means are tested by a whole generation of polymers.
If there is no possibility to buy a Varathane or Future Floor FINISH, you can see in a construction store any other similar coating for wooden floors. The main thing is to note that the lacquer does not have latex - it is not friendly with plastic. Detailed discussion different species Laca can look at the forum site Osinka.
What if you still bought "wrong" lacquer and he began to stick off?
You can try bake a product in the oven at a temperature of 110-130 degrees within 10-15 minutes, if the lacquer was water based. If this does not help and the product still lipnets, then you need to erase the layer of sticking varnish with acetone, rinse with water with soap, dry and apply a new layer of "right" varnish.Some subtleties
It is often possible to hear that even good varnishes begin to stick, peel the film or to rock. What could be the cause?The product was rocked not enough time, plastic was not completely polymerized and the plasticizer joined the reaction with varnish. To eliminate this reason, you need to finish the product, you can even remove the lacquer layer.
In the plastic there was too much plasticizer and a thin oily film was formed on the surface after baked, which prevents the solid contact of the surface of the plastic surface with varnish. This property has highly peether plastic. What to do? - wipe the surface of the product with alcohol before applying varnish and / or wash with detergent For dishes. By the way, the fatty film may appear from the frequent contact of the baked product with their hands, especially if you worked with raw plastic.
The first layer of varnish was not sufficiently dried before applying the following. Some varnishes seem dry after 10-15 minutes after applying, in fact, many varnishes are required for complete drying several hours.
If you put the lacquer immediately after grinding, not removing the remains of dust, then the lacquer will not fall on the surface of the plastic, but on the "pillows" dust. Over time, during the operation of the product, it can cause the span of a piece of varnish in these places. Therefore, after grinding, if polished is not supposed, it is desirable before applying a varnish to wipe the surface of the plastic with a damp cloth and dry.
As a rule, no less than two layers should be applied, in special cases up to five. Believe me, the difference is very large, the more layers, the deeper the color and more effectory appearance, especially it concerns products from metallized plastic and translucent.Finally, the varnish is considered to be dried in a week, but this does not mean that the product can not be worn - it is simply no need to wet. This, by the way, concerns not only acrylic varnish, but also acrylic paints. If you do not learn between repeated coatings, or wet ahead of time, the varnish can be played with the film or go bubbles.
You can cover lacquer in two ways: to apply cloth with a brush and dip in varnish. Let us explain the second way. The product on the stick is completely dipped into the container with varnish, then they give a track of an extra lacquer, twisting some time around the axis so that the varnish is evenly distributed and put on drying, sticking into a piece of rigid foam or foam. Usually, in a couple of minutes, a small droplet is formed in the bottom - it is removed by a soft tassel until it is still liquid. After the primary drying of the varnish, you can scroll to the toothpick in the bead so that later it was easier to pull it out. After final drying, beads are removed from the toothpicks with a flipping movement, so as not to break it and it does not stay in the bead.
Varnish
To protect products from polymer plastic from the external environment, it is desirable to cover them with varnish. In addition, the works covered with varnish, an additional depth of color appears.
Unfortunately, not every lacquer can be used for coating, some simply will not dry on plastic, others, although they dry, but begin to stick off after a while.
What varnishes should not be used?
1. Ordinary nail polishes - they have a completely different formula and they can start closing after a while.
2. Lucky for hair - they are not waterproof, in addition, they like to settle dust on them.
3. Acrylic varnishes for needlework and universal, which are sold in stationery and needlework stores - it is that they often do not dry on plastic. A typical example is Hobby-Line.
What varnishes are guaranteed to suit polymer plastic?
1. Specialized, from ladders of polymer plastics
from the manufacturer Sculpey water-based (left glossy, right - matte)
from producer Fimo. Water based on mineral base (in the center and right)
2. Acrylic coating for water-based wooden floors. Often, the banks still write "polyurethane-acrylic".
Example - Varathane (Varatan) Crystal Clear Waterborne - water-based coating for floor processing, transparent, without yellowness, fixed, high-strength, non-toxic. It happens - glossy / matte / semmatte.
If there is no possibility to buy Varathane, you can see in the construction store any other similar coating for wooden floors. The main thing is to note that the lacquer does not have latex - it is not friendly with plastic.
For Osinok in Germany - I found analogue to OBI - Classic Klarlack. It is of course more expensive than Varathane, but according to the composition is similar, and cheaper than special branded plastic coatings.
What if you still bought "wrong" lacquer, and he began to stick off?
You can try bake a product in the oven at a temperature of 110-130 degrees within 10-15 minutes, if the lacquer was water based.
If this does not help and the product still lipnets, then you need to erase the layer of sticking varnish with acetone, rinse with water with soap, dry and apply a new layer of "right" varnish.
Some subtleties
It is often possible to hear that even good varnishes begin to stick, peel the film or to rock.
What could be the cause?
1. The product was ridicked not enough time, plastic was not completely polymerized and the plasticizer joined the reaction with varnish. To eliminate this reason, you need to finish the product, you can even remove the lacquer layer.
2. The plastic was too much plasticizer and a thin oily film was formed on the surface after baked, which prevents the solid contact of the plastic surface with varnish. This property has highly peether plastic. What to do? - Before applying the lacquer, wipe the surface of the product with alcohol or rinse with water with soap, and be sure to dry well before applying varnish. By the way, the fatty film may appear from the frequent contact of the baked product with their hands, especially if you worked with raw plastic.
3. The first layer of varnish was not consistently dried before applying the following. Some varnishes seem dry after 10-15 minutes after applying, in fact, many varnishes are required for complete drying several hours.
That's what else about varnishes wrote tin_liva:
"Keywords for suitable varnish plastic:
for wood (internal works) or one-component parquet lacquer(With two components you can hang)
1. on one based
2. polyurethane
3. Type Product acryla "
"About the varnish for plastics. I first bought a special lacquer for FIMO, the production of fiber on a water basis, but he disappointed me very much. The varnish peels off even if only diligently wear beads, and if you go to the shower with them .... then I was looking for a consumer online on the Internet than and how to seize plastic. The west of plastic has been engaged in twenty years old at least and managed to practice in this matter. They advise the plastic lacquer (not even varnish and finish coating) for wood, polyurethane on a water basis. For other solvents can poorly chemically react with plastic. That is, the acetone, nitrolac, nail polish (except acrylic, but he is terribly dear)
Everything recommends Varathane - Polyurethane Finish on the water base (not varnish, polishing or wax for the floor), which works very well with wood, paper, cloth, and so on, including clay polymer! This acrylic product turned out to be compatible with plastic brands, including Skalpi, Prem, Fimo, Cerns and others. By the way, it can be bought in Moscow in the base of Arlum. Sold with glossy, matte and half-one gloss. ETO is all best varnish. I had to order from America
But in principle, you can buy any lacquer for the tree if it is 1. Polyurethane 2. on aquatic basis 3. With a filter of ultravioleti rays, not a jelly. There are not enough such, but as a rule they sell them in a rather big jars, however, they bought the Swedish lacquer Synteko (Parketniy) and discounted on the bank and then poured over jars.
The varnish itself looks like water with milk, with a slight smell, but when it dries becomes transparent. Better the product immediately in the water care for a couple of weeks, then you can swim with him at least in the sea, the varnish does not get.
Variance of varnish OT. Favola.:
