The history of one of the most exotic fashion houses of France begins in 1939, when in the Japanese province of Kandzaki, on the coast of Honxu Island, under the Senya of the Ancient Castle "White Heron" - Himedezi, a boy named Kendzo Takada is born. The fifth child in the family of a tea house owner since childhood suffers from dyslexia, and reading or coherent expression of their thoughts for him is a whole problem.
Avoiding societies of other children, he spends a lot of time alone, considering magazines senior sisterAnd falls in love. However, parents adhere to traditional restrictions for Japanese society: only women work in the country of the rising sun in the sewing industry, and it is impossible to violate the procedure.
In 1957, obeying the will of the Father, Kendzo enters the university in the city of Kobe to the Faculty of Japanese Literature. In just a year, he does not withstand and, despite the kick of the parent, throws his studies and moves to Tokyo. There, having gathered all his courage, he submits documents to the Design and Fashion Institute (Tokyo's Bunka Fashion College). After passing all the entrance exams, Takada becomes the first man admitted to learning.
After training, the young designer is engaged in design shop windows in a large department store, then goes into a fashion magazine. But he dreams of Paris ... The old Institution professor once said that Kendzo's place is in the most fashionable city of the world, liberated and open to the entire new capital of France. There is not enough money to the ticket, and parents denied the financial assistance to the Son who came against their will.
But fate on the side of Kendzo. In 1964, the Japanese government begins preparations for the Tokyo Olympic Games and demolitions housing that hinders the construction site. The list comes with a house in which Takada lives. Having received compensation in the amount of 350,000 yen, he buys a ticket to the ship to Marseille. In January 1965, Cambodian cargo ship after a monthly journey enters the largest port of France with a single passenger on board Kendzo Takada.
He founded in someone else's country, without knowledge of French and money, he is forced to turn to mother for help. And again receives a refusal. In reality, life in Paris is far from what he painted in his imagination. Not falling in spirit, Kendzo is taken for everything: cuts and walks dogs, worries with a malarier and freelance designer in the publishing house. And it does not realize that his poverty and loneliness is a hidden blessing.
In his free time, it is created for yourself, but the only available material is the cheapest residues of the fabrics. Without having nothing else, he boldly mix various textures and colors, Paris inspiration and Japanese traditions, and gradually forms his own and nothing to do. Kenzo style.
The Japanese influence is unmistakably guessed in each model. "These are all memories of the mother. I was fascinated by her energy and an incredible grace of her kimono. " At the beginning of the seventies in Japan there were two types of kimono: simple and strict everyday and colorful festive, covered with magic patterns. It is the last most inspired by the new French-Japanese designer.
By the end of 1967, in the tiny removable room Kendzo, all the space occupy the sketches and, gathering with the Spirit, in search of work, he goes to the fashion house Louis Fero (Louis Féraud). There are no vacant places, but several drawings is still selling. Painted by this little success, Takada sends out the sketches into all fashionable magazines, and almost ten of them takes ELLE. So, gradually, step by step, yesterday, another unknown Japanese appears first customers, conquered by the color and unusual energy of its models. "It has been crazy time: work throughout the day and endless parties at night."
In February 1970, Kendzo decides to open his store. This is just a small abandoned room in the "Vivien" gallery, but for him - a favorite brainchild, his life. He himself is engaged in repairs (the skills of the painter came in handy) and even draws his favorite picture of Henri Russo "Sleep" on the walls, ceiling and steps. Japanese Jungle Store (Japanese Jungle) swallows its doors in April 1970.
In August, the debut show passes. Despite the fact that all the most simply and models are defiled in a small studio, the chief editor of French Elle, the largest edition of fashion, is also included in the number of twenty guests. Unique, full of life and colors of outfits are impressed, and on the cover of the November issue there are those "Japanese jungle".
At the beginning of the 70s, high-class fashion designers fall into the influence of antitraditional ideas and new values. Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel, dominant with their Bon Chic Bon Genre and manufacturing elegant, but boring "Lady clothes", fall into opal. Mini skirts and pants Clash are gaining popularity among the population. Takada with its enchanting paints, rich floral patterns and comfortable silhouettes forms a new paradigm of Paris Fashion.
The time of pret-a-port begins, and ready-made clothing, in which the flavor of the uncharted country of Geishe and Samurai with the principles of Western fashion were mixed with the principles of Western fashion, it turned out to be like a revolution. Mark receives the official name of Kenzo, and over the next decade, its grandiose success for its strength resembles a meteorite explosion.
Kendzo perfectly plays with a palette. Saturated green, bright purple, bloody-red, sunny yellow protrude together, but do not look vulgar or defiant. And his favorite flowers perfectly help to express and purity, and passion, and character. Such skill is not available to everyone.
Kendzo becomes a pioneer in the design of a loose clothing - OVERSIZE - Sumy to create aesthetic space between body and cloth. Silhouettes resemble all the same kimono: straight lines, lack of arrows, extracts and lightning. In the period when the public is tired of excessive sexuality in clothing, its work establishes new standards for fashion 70s: volume, plasticity and multi-layered.
In 1977, the Takada comes the moment of this triumph. He shows his own new collection In the scandalous New York club Studio 54. Under Disco performed by the magnificent Grace Jones Models, including the famous Jerry Hall, overlook the improvised podium. For the end of the 70s, this is a real challenge! No one has yet made a fashion show in a nightclub, and the American audience was conquered by a creative and brave Japanese.
Thinking about creating a harmonious image, in 1978 Takada begins work on the aroma. Two years later, the experiments appear oriental, spicy, extraordinary perfume King Kong as a continuation of his favorite theme "Japanese jungle." Bright notes of banana and mint are stunned and fully complement the bizarre concept of the brand. After several years, the success of the spirits disappear from the counters. And in 1988, as the official fragrance of the brand, the world is presented less exotic, but still attractive flower-fruit CA Sent Beau. By the way, the line of fragrances from Kenzo still "explodes" -.
In 1983, Takada produces the first male collection "around the world for 80 days." The same promise, energy and even flowers, but in another interpretation. Japanese, living in Paris, is inspired by cultures outside the traditional West, and in its works you can recognize the elements folk costumes different countries And continents: Scandinavian patterns, Romanian peasant skirts, Portuguese wallets, North African tunics, Peruvian poncho.
In the 90th brand remains youth-oriented and unusually popular. Immediately excess volume disappears, and mini dresses and tops come to replace it. But even following fashionable trends, Takada does not change itself and remains the same as twenty years ago, when he only dreamed of conquering fashionable Olympus - open, filled with joy, freedom and individuality.
Fun, poetic and relaxed Kendzo from the season in the season creates its extraordinary collections. What approves leading stylists and critics is on sale, and the most creative work is to the archive. The most popular motifs - plants, animals and water - take a bizarre form in the interpretation of the wizard.
Not only the outfits contrast with everything that was before, but their demonstration is very different from the traditional. He suits the show in the circus, leaving the public on the elephant himself, spreads unusual tents in Bordeaux, tightens the area in Paris. And in 1994, in honor of the first day of summer, the Pont Neuf Bridge bridge lifted ten thousand multicolored begonias. As an idea of \u200b\u200bthe designer, flower "yarn" is intended to carry joy and smiles. Nicely shocked citizens rated a gift and smiled happily all three days until the installation existed.
In 1993, the brand buys a multinational conglomerate of luxury items LVMH GROUP. From that moment on, Takada reminds the general that the battle losted. Twice a year, he hardly creates collections, like a mythical Sisif, performs useless, endless work. He is fond of ceramics, draws, engaged in sports - the word, behaves like a pensioner.
On the Christmas Eve 1999, Kenzo Takada officially announces his care and leaving Japan. Another dream is to engage in art - begins to incarnate. Throwing everything, he begins to write, adorn the paintings by Matisse, Gaugugen and Rousseau, takes the lessons of playing the piano, studies the architecture and travels.
In 2000, the fragrance of Flower By Kenzo, which became flagship. Aroma symbol - bright poppy. Following the Kenzoki Cosmetic Line, which is popular. It is these products for a long period that become the main source of company income.
In 2003, an Italian Antonio Marras enters the post of creative designer. Marras begins with the fact that carefully stones all archives at home. He explains it like this: "When I joined Kenzo, Takada has already left the company for almost ten years. You need to fill the gaps, return the values \u200b\u200bof the brand, but at the same time give it new life. This is a special home with a unique DNA, and I believe that I have to continue his story, and not erase. " Marras brings European history, religion and Italian origin to Japanese aesthetics.
Designers are those authorities in Fashion industry, which dictate trendy standards to us and determine the trends. Each designer is famous and recognizable with something with his own, and everyone has a special unique hand writing. Some of these people become real legends in the fashion and style world. How did they succeed? Maybe they are just a dambling of fate - or is it worth the desire to translate your dream into life and gigantic work? What glove them?
Gabriel Boner Chanel (Coco Chanel)
The famous Mademoiselle knows today, probably, everything. It is quoted, she strive to imitate her. She had a great influence on the fashion of the 20th century, founded the fashionable house Chanel, gave the world to the world from his branded perfumes under the numbers. Coco received his nickname when sang in the cabaret. She was an extraordinary, bold and bright personality, with a great power of will and impeccable taste. She is obliged to modernize female fashion, borrowing many elements from male wardrobe, popularity of universal little black dress, pearls, tweed costumes, little hat, jewelry and sunbathing.
Coco Chanel made a luxury practical. Most of all in clothes, she appreciated comfort and embodied this principle in his collections. She said that "the luxury should be comfortable, otherwise it is not a luxury." Among the clients and familiar Mademoiselle had many world celebrities. In one of the interviews, the question of which events in life awaken in her interest in art, she replied: "Living in children's house Under the supervision of the nun, I learned to sew. They taught me the basic skills of the seamstress, then I was already smart enough to understand the method. I really snapped my hand and focused on the design already at an early age, so well-known customers appeared so quickly. "
Shanel opened its first store in 1910, in Paris. There were sold hats. Later, clothes appeared in its stores. Interestingly, the very first clothing that Chanel created was a dress converted from a sweater. At her outfit paid attention and asked where she acquired it, and in response, Coco offered to make the same outfit for those interested. Later she said that her condition was "based on the old sweater, which I was put on, because in Daville it was cold."
Karl Lagerfeld.
One of the most influential fashion designers, a person of phenomenal performance, multifaceted nature, owner of a set of talents. This world-famous designer of German origin is led by a fashionable house Chanel since 1983. In addition, Carl Designer and the founder of his own fashionable brand, Talented photographer, director, owner of the publishing house and personal library in 300 thousand volumes. Lagerfeld says about himself: "I like chameleon, several people live in me at the same time. Create for me - akin to breathing. I do not even think about it. When I sit in the manager of Chanel chair, I am Chanel. When I go to Rome and I am in the FENDI house, I am Fendi. I start working on a new collection a day before when you show the previous one. "
His creative abilities appeared already in early childhood. He studied in the Lyceum Montaen in syndicate high fashion In one course with Yves Saint-Laurent. Lagerfeld collaborated with a large number of famous fashion houses, created flavors, line of finished clothes, shoes, accessories. After in 1966, he created his first collection of fur products for Fendi, which had a huge success, paid attention to him the most influential people of the fashion world.
In the 70s, Lagerfeld began to cooperate with famous directors and create costumes for actors La Rock theater. He breathed a new jet of life into a fashionable house Chanel, becoming his leader and designer, saying: "Yes, she said that fashion dies, and the style is immortal. But the style of all must adapt, adjust into the fashion. Chanel had his own life. Great quarry. She ended. I did everything to extend it, and I continue to do that she lasted forever. My main task is to try to transpose what she did, today. Guess what she would do, she live now and here, will be Mademoiselle in my place. "
Friends are called Karl Kaiser (Caesar, German manner) for its amazing ability to make several things at the same time. He hides his age and is experiencing that there is not enough life to implement all his creative ideas. Lagerfeld loves books (he even created the fragrance Paper Passion with the smell of freshly printed book), draws illustrations for works, not think of life without a photo, sews suits for cinema and theater, produces perfumes, engaged in its own brand, creates the design of hotels, removes short films and organizes Exhibitions, produces women's collections.
Elsa Skiaparelli
The famous Italian designer of the first half of the 20th century, which is considered a surrealist from the world of fashion, the main rival of Chanel, the pretext of the style of Preta-A-port. Elsa was born in the family of aristocrats, since childhood she studied painting, the history of the arts, loved the theater. By studying the guide in Paris, Elsa watched how the least wives of rich Americans were interested in architecture and most - fashion stores. Presumably, then, then the idea of \u200b\u200bshocking the public came to her head to shock the audience.
Having become acquainted with an emigrant from Armenia, whose knitted sweater, which Elsa liked so much, she persuaded her to create jointly unusual clothing models. The fruit of their works was a very unusual black woolen dress with a bow in the form of a butterfly. Thanks to their work, they attracted attention and received a large order from the store. sportswear Strauss. This is this order presented the glory of Skiaparelli and factory knitwear Armenian diaspora. Elsa founded his trendy house. As he conceived initially, she shocked the public with their collections. They embodied the most courageous fantasies and dreams, expressed something irrational and incomprehensible. Each thing was unique. Many were created in a single copy. Hearts, constellations, embracing hands, snakes, giant flies, unusual drawings, embroidery and bizarre accessories - all attracted attention and raised.
It was Elsa for the first time that I invented the concept of "boutique" (a shop where small series of author's clothing is sold). Many celebrities collaborated with Elsa and gladly acquired her clothes. Skiaparelli had a Hollywood contract. She was friends with Salvador Dali (it was he who suggested her the idea of \u200b\u200ba dress with a lobster and parsley and bags-phone). Under the influence of Dali Elsa created the most unusual things: a hat in the form of shoes or inkwells, gloves with pockets for matches. The jewelry was the embodiment of the strangest ideas, as materials used lollipops, medicines, erases, feathers, pencils, dried beetles.
Elsa often called his fashionable house crazy. The popularity of Skiaparelli collections was huge, everyone wanted to have this strange clothes, even the Duchess of Windsor. But when she had to go to the United States because of the beginning of World War II, it was like forgotten. Upon returning to Paris in 1944, her style ceased to be demanded. Chanel dominated the fashion scene, and Elsa decided to leave the fashion world.
Both talented women were innovators in the fashion world, but completely different. Chanel worked within the framework of the classics, without making emphasis on brightness and test. Alsis was extravagant, loved to shock and provoke. The contribution of both into fashion is undoubtedly invaluable, although the skiaparelli brand has not existed for a long time. Elsa ideas and discoveries can be seen embodied in modern fashion, she seemed to be ahead of her time. Unusual color combinations, the color "Fuchsia" (shocking pink - this is also the idea of \u200b\u200bSkiaparelli!), Flakes in the form female bodyFur shoes, ankle shoes, unusual bags - all this ideas of a talented Elsa, which has had a huge impact on the world of fashion and style.
Christian Dior
One of the most famous French fashion designers to whom we owe ultraphive dresses in the style of New On. He had an art talent, and in his youth he dreamed of becoming a great artist. After his private gallery of art went bankrupt, he survived difficult times, poverty and unemployment, but fate as if she prepared him another path. He began to develop theatrical costumes, draw sketches for french fashion magazines. And these sketches have become unusually popular, he began to cooperate with the Figaro newspaper fashion department, he was noticed. I decided to specialize in clothing models, although sketches of models of caps were much more popular. Dior noticed the famous fashion designer Peega, but because of the war, the career Diora did not start.
Upon returning from the army, Christian began working in the famous Lucien Lelong model house, where he learned a lot. In 1946, thanks to the financing of textile tycoon in Paris, the house of Diura fashion was opened. In 42, he became famous, his first collection, called the "Ventanceline" himself, was recognized as a revolutionary and had a deafening success. Just imagine postwar times when women are so frightened by beauty and sophistication, according to feminine and luxurious outfits. Dior, incredibly sensitive and talented, felt the mood of society, his desires and dreams. Parisians are so tired then from husband-like jackets and short skirts that the collection of Diora met with delight. Feminine silhouettes, luxurious and bright fabrics, tightened waists, skirts to the ankle (or magnificent, or straight), small round shoulders - everything was in this collection by the embodiment of traditional femininity and charm.
But not everything was so cloudless. Feminists criticized the collection, stating that the return to crinolines and corsets testifies to the oppression of labor women. Many believed that after the war luxury and brightness inappropriate and blasphemous. However, despite criticism, New Bow fascinated the public. The popularity of Diora was stunning, his name became associated with a luxury and good taste. I was waiting for every collection by hopping my breath, and I waited for each success.
Only in 1954 was a little dangerous for a career Dius moment when Chanel returned to the fashion stage, who could not tolerate the horrors of the 50s, as she responded about the models of Diora. But Dior was very intelligibly out of the position, releaseing a new collection, light and relaxed. More than before, but all the same feminine. The silhouettes were more natural, lifted lines. Dius's personal assistant after the death of the Grand Couturier once said that "if Dior was alive, the fashion would not be in such a deplorable state in which she is now."
Yves Saint Laurent
One of the leading fashion designers of the XX century, which Christian Dior chose his successor. Since childhood, painted and loved the theater, made homemade puppet performances, glued costumes and painted the scenery. Laurent worked as an assistant from Diora and was fascinated by his genius, and Dior, in turn, immediately admitted young man Future Master.
At 21, Laurent becomes the head of one of the most famous fashionable houses after the diplocked death of the Diora and literally saves the brand from financial death. He presented his first female collection of a softer and easy version of New Luke with a silhouette of a trapezium. Laurent was the first one who presented the French fashion in the USSR (1959), coming here with 12 mannequins.
It seemed that the brilliant prospects are ahead as a successor that had justified the expectation of the late Dius. But it did not cost, however, without envy and trouble. The owner of the fashion house Dior (Marseille Bussac), by rumors, insisted that Saint-Laurent was sent to military service In Africa, thereby wanting to get rid of the designer. There, he learns that he was fired from the fashion house Dior.
In 1961, the brand Yves Saint Laurent appears (Yves Saint-Laurent), its first collection was of great success. Oriental motives, bright colors, inspiration from African countries. Saint Laurent also produces perfume, works as a theater artist, creates scenery and costumes.
The ideas of the following collections of Laurent also received great recognition and became a kind of fashionable classic: female tuxedins (later they became branded bard), brushy costumes, knee-high boots, sweaters with a high throat, black leather jackets, Safari dresses, ethnic motifs. Laurent becomes the first designer who produces a full-fledged line of rushing-a-port, as well as the first designer to be dedicated to the exhibition in the Metropolitan Museum.
Giorgio Armani
Italian fashion designer is called the filmmaker of the XX century fashion, a master of cutting, the quality of quality and a big aestheter. Georgio since childhood loved art and theater, he himself painted and sewed outfits for dolls. He had a dream to become an actor, but the parents insisted at the profession of a doctor. After two years of study, Georgio threw the university. He found himself in the world of fashion. Armani's own brand created in 1974, and before that he worked as a designer of showcases in a major network department store, and also created men's clothing For Nino Cherut.
Professional work skills with Fabric Armani led to the fact that in fact, thanks to him, the approach to the sewing of men's clothing has changed completely. There were ease and smoothness, which, along with simplicity and conciseness, provide its products with special chic and convenience. After the sewer success of the male collection, Armani began to represent women's collections, paying attention to especially working women. In his collections, traditional views are harmoniously adjacent to the most modern trends. He upgraded the classics with great grace and taste. Luxury materials, experiments with a combination of fabrics, functionality and versatility, negligent elegance - distinctive features of Armani collections.
Ralph Loren
Famous American designer, which is called the King of the Finished Dress, "America opened America". His company (Polo Ralph Lauren Corporation) produces accessories, clothing, underwear, textiles, furniture, wallpaper, perfume, dishes. Lauren three times received the title of "Designer of the Year", as well as awarded the title of "Legend of Fashion" (the Council of Designers of the United States). For many people, Ralph Lauren is an example of how a person from a low social layer can achieve large heights, having a dream and talent. The leaving of Belarus (her parents met him and got married in the USA), from a poor large familiar family, Ralph from the young age set the goal for himself to succeed. He was struck by a wardrobe of a classmate, who belonged only to him alone, and in which the clothes were so carefully. In the apartment of Ralph, the cabinet was one at all. Since then, the future designer decided to work and postpone the money on his dream.
Interestingly, Lauren has no designer diploma, but it is one of the best world designers. He himself does not sew clothes, but is an inspirer, designer, thinks over every collection to the smallest detail. The designer himself says like this: "I never went to school fashion - I was a young guy who had his own style. I could not imagine that the Polo will become the fact that there is. I just followed my instincts. "
At first, Ralph worked as a seller (selling clothes, gloves and ties), then became the designer of the ties, created a fundamentally new model (it was inspired by the Roman "Great Gatsby"): a wide silk tie (while in fashion then there were thin ties). Thanks to the Investor Lauren, together with his brother, opened the store and its brand POLO FASHION. People wanted high-quality and stylish things and accessories, Mark gained more and more popularity. Lauren produced the collection of finished clothes (first for men, and then feminine) and accessories. He was the only one began to produce sports shirts in 24 shades.
The Lauren collections combine chic, sophistication and at the same time ease, simplicity and brightness. "My clothes are a vision of what I believe. Someone once told me that I am a writer. It's true - I am writing through my clothes. She embodies history, not just clothes, "said Loren. Ralph's wife inspired him to create collections of women's clothing: "My wife has a good taste and its own style. When she wore shirts, sweaters and jackets bought in male stores, people always asked where she got it. It was associated with my young Catherine Hepburn - a girlfriend on a horse with waving in the wind by the wind. I created a shirt for it. " Lauren entered the fashion clothes in Western style. Polo shirts seem to never come out of fashion.
The dreams of the Ralph boy were embodied in reality: he is one of the richest people in the world, he has a strong familyThree children, he owns Rancho and is one of the world's largest collectors in the world.
Roberto Cavalli
The famous Italian designer asks to call himself an "fashion artist" and is famous for its exotic and spectacular collections of clothing and accessories. His trendy house adheres to the philosophy of femininity, chic and bright temperament. The designer himself said in one of the interviews that his fashion "became successful and relevant, because the rest of the designers continued to produce monotonous things ... For a long time, the designers tried to wear women on a par with men. I changed this trend. I'm trying to emphasize the clothes feminine, the sexy side that is present in every representative of the beautiful floor. "
The grandfather, famous artist Giuseppe Rossi, and his mother, who was a dressmaker and a designer, had a great influence on the disclosure of the Kavale talent. In childhood, helping mother with sewing clothes, Cavalli understood that he wants to engage in design and fashion. He was one of the best students of the Academy of Arts in Florence, studied printing technology on textiles. Already then he created a series of floral prints, which are interested in large factories of Italy. Cavalli has always loved experimenting, still studying at the Academy, he began to invent different ways of coloring the skin and fabric, he was then only 20 years old.
And so, these experiments led to the fact that in the early 1970s, Cavalli himself invented and patented a printing system on the skin, which allowed it to paint it into six different colors. This revolutionary invention instantly became popular with various fashionable houses. Jeans from Elastic Denim are another hit from Cavalli, who provided the house prosperity and success.
Bright and extravagant clothes Roberto Cavalli enjoys in great demand among the fashionistas of the whole world, she is wearing the most glamorous celebrities on the planet. Cavalli believes that a woman should have a character and highly manifested personality. In one of the interview, he said: "Beauty comes from the inside, and is a reflection of the individuality of each person ... Beauty is a business card that helps with the first meeting, but completely useless with the second."
Valentino Garavana
The founder of the fashion house Valentino, the famous Italian fashion designer from childhood loved to draw, in his youth loved art and was interested in fashion. Was in the apprentices, he studied at the school of fine arts in Paris, and at school at the High Fashion Chamber. He worked in several fashion houses, then opened his own atelier. His works were distinguished by refinement, beautiful cut, expensive tissues, manual decor, sophistication. In 1960, a brand Valentino appeared.
Thanks to the meeting with Jamemetti architect, the future cEO Fashion house, Valentino gets the opportunity to engage only by creativity, not attacked in business subtleties. He himself said: "I just know how to draw dresses, receive guests and decorate the house, and I do not understand anything in business." In one of the collections of the 60s, the outfits of a red color, who later became the visiting card of the fashion house Valentino subsequently. The fashion designer says: "Red is the best color. It is suitable for any woman, just need to remember that there is more than 30 different shades of this color. "
For many years, the designer has dressed up star celebrities, many of them preferred to acquire exquisite wedding outfits from him. Among his clients were such legendary personalities like Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, Sophie Loren, Elizabeth Taylor. At the presentation of the Oscar premium, many actresses shone in the dresses from Valentino. In 2007, the famous fashion designer declared his departure from the world of fashion, and in 2008 a farewell display took place at a high fashion week in Paris, on which all models came to the podium in red dresses, and the audience applauded standing.
In September 1939 The Second World War began, which had an influence of no less than the first.
For the first time, women not only worked in the rear on a par with men, but also fought on the front. And, like men, women put on a military uniform.
In all countries involved in the war, measures were taken to normalize consumption - food, fuel, fabric and clothing were issued on cards and coupons.
The lack of the most necessary and harsh living conditions led to the simplification of the costume, the emergence of multifunctional forms of clothing, saving materials and "self-made" fashion.
The combined models entered the fashion, when one new one was made of several old dresses. A lot of design details appeared in military time models - coquettes, plug-in wedges that were made from another fabric.
One of the symbols of the military fashion was the turban, which was made from a wide variety of materials. It was extremely easy to manufacture and hid the absence of hairstyles.
The most deficient object of a female toilet during the war was stockings (it was at this time that the manner was spread to wear summer shoes on boss leg, without stocking and socks,)
At the same time, the skirts are significantly shortened, the shoulders became wider, and the waist tightened the belt. The silhouette of military time at dresses and costumes was in the form of the letter x, and the coat in the form of a rectangle.
Despite all the difficulties, the fashion of wartime still obeyed the requirements of the ensemble. The dress or costume was necessarily wore with a suitable headdress and gloves.
Fashion magazines created an image of an energetic, well-groomed, beautiful and faithful girlfriend, which should have strengthened the fighting spirit soldier._
During the war, almost all fashion houses continued to work. The collections of the French couturiers were extravagant models, mostly designed for export in the United States.
The "utility" plan has normalized the consumption of tissues and materials, controlled sewing enterprises, quality and prices for clothing. At first, the government controlled 50%, and then all 85 textile and sewing enterprises. According to this plan, the coupons were introduced on clothing.
Additional decrees came out that controlled the amount of tissue, banned embroidery and decorations from sequined
The deficiency of tissues and clothes forced many to sew themselves. During the war, a lot of brochures and magazines were published with detailed recommendations, how to alter old clothes, update the hat or tie a sweater, under the slogan "Hope that there is, and the reeble"
"Fashion Theater" the hardest times for high fashion has come after release. High Fashion Houses experienced difficult times - fabrics lacked, the models were poorly bought ..
"Fashion of Liberation" did not offer anything new. And in these unfavorable conditions, to re-draw attention to the Parisian fashion, the project "TM" was carried out, in which all fashion houses participated.
Then the idea was born to create a collection on a scale - on dolls.
The spring / summer of 1945 was made and shown for 200 dolls 68.5 cm high. The dolls had a body in the form of a wire frame and a head of gypsum.
Sketches of dolls developed an artist Eliana Bonabel, made their artist Jean Saint-Martin, and the heads cast in his workshop Catalan sculptor Joan Rebule. For these dolls, each house of fashion sewed a coat model, costumes, day and evening dresses; For these purposes, tissue remains from former collections, and swelling special fabrics were used.
For each doll was sewn underwear Silk, made hats, shoes, bags and decorations (famous jewelry firms "Cartier" and "Wang Cliff and Arpel"). The scenery was developed by Jean Coke and Christian Berar.
about 100 thousand people visited this exhibition, then she went on tour in Europe and the United States.
Pierre Balmen
Almost all the couture in the 1950s. Worked in the style of "New On".
Already in 1947, all fashion houses after Dior have changed the silhouette and lengthened the skirts.
Fashion trends We developed high fashion houses known before the war (Lanvent, "Nina Ricci", "Jacques Fat") and newly opened houses (Pierre Bal-Meng, "Jumber de Zhivani", "Pierre Cardin", "Ted Lapidus", Madame Karven, specializing in models for small growth clients).
Despite the favorable economic situation, some "old" houses of high fashion completed their activities: "Vort" (in 1953), "Pa-Ken" (in 1956), "Edward Molina" (in 1950), Robert Peig (in 1951), Skia Parelly (in 1954).
One of the "big" fashion houses in the 1950s. The house "Pierre Balman" became the house. His creator of P. Balman was born in 1914 in Savoy. P. Balman since childhood showed interest in art, studied architecture at school fine arts In Paris and painted sketches of models for sale (for R. Peig).
In 1934-1939. P. Balman worked as E. Molina, at the beginning of the war he served in the army.
After the surrender, he found the place of the assistant in the house "Lucien Lelong". In 1945, he left Lelong and opened a high fashion house for his own funds. On First Defile Balman showed long Dresses With emphasized waist and advanced skirts, similar to New Onion Dius.
This feminine and elegant style brought him success. In 1951, he opened the fashion house in New York.
In 1952-1953 The "Cute Madame" collection, which especially liked to American clients was greatly successful.
House "Pierre Balman" dressed Hollywood movie stars and American millionaires.
Balman did not like experiments with a form and silhouette, making an emphasis on a luxurious decor - from the models of Dius his style distinguished a large amount of embroidery, finishes, complex textures.
Among American customers, the Jacques Fat house was successfully used, founded in 1937. Jacques Fat was born in 1912 in Mazon-Lätitt.
He had a commercial education and worked as a broker at the Paris Stock Exchange. After serving in the army, J. Fat engaged in modeling hats (the vehicle craft was keen in the 1930s. Many people were big, since the headdress was a mandatory element of the costume).
In 1937, in his two-bedroom apartment, J. Fat organized the first show of the collection "from Kutur".
In 1939, he suggested models with tightened waist and magnificent skirts who anticipate the "New One".
One of the leading Paris Kuturiers J. Fat began during the war, continuing to work in Occupied Paris, participated in the "Fashion Theater" project.
After the war, "Jacques Fat" became the famous High Fashion House. In 1948, J. Fat introduced the line of finished clothes in the United States.
Fata models were distinguished by sculptural forms and expressive silhouettes.
A woman dressed in the original and elegant toilet from the veil, it was impossible not to notice, so his style was loved by the movie star.
J. Fat died of leukemia in 1954.
« New Luk."K.Diora
The new style was born on February 12, 1947, when the first display of the collection of the newly opened house "Christian Dior" took place.
The creator of the collections of this house of high fashion was the 42-year-old K. Dior. Christian Dior was born in 1905 in Normandy in Granville.
His father, Maurice Dior, owned a factory for the manufacture of chemical fertilizers, and the mother was the elegant lady of Bel Epok.
Mother for Diora has always remained a standard of beauty and elegance. He was interested in art from childhood, invented himself and sisters fancy dressesBut the father wanted to see the successor to his business in it.
In the early 1910s The family moved to Paris, where K. Dior studied at the request of the parents in the Diplomatic Academy, but he spent all his time in the workshops of artists.
Therefore, a compromise solution was found - the father allowed him to open the art gallery.
In 1928, K.Dior, together with J. Boljan, opened the gallery, where the paintings of S. Dali, J. Miro, J. Pekiro-Co., J. Marriah, M.Turillo, K. Berara, P. Chelischev, and others.
But "Great Depression" began - the father of Diora became bankrupt, losing his factory and the estate in Granville.
Deuterined financial support, Dior was soon forced to close his galleries (in 1932, along with P. Kollah, he opened one more), he remained without a means of existence and sick with tuberculosis.
In 1934, with the help of friends, he was able to go to Spain and was treated there for about a year.
When he returned to Paris in 1935, his friend K. Berar, who in those years successfully worked as an illustrator of fashion, advised Dora try to draw sketches for fashion homes.
Suddenly, for the Diora itself, this frivolous occupation began to bring regular income.
He drew sketches of hats for famous Modistok Anise and K. Saint-Sir, collaborated with the Figaro newspaper mod. In 1938, K.Dior received a place in the fashion house "Robert Peyga". At the beginning of the war, Dior was mobilized and served for about a year by a soldier of 1 category - Farmers.
After the surrender, he drove to the south of France, where his father, sister and a former housekeeper, who sheltered them in his home lived.
In 1941, he returned to Paris, where she got a job in the house "Lucien Lelong" and worked with P. Balman.
His models were successful, but L. Lelong did not allow the diore to be too deviated from the general direction of military fashion.
Disagreements with the owner led to the fact that in 1945 the house "Lucien Lelong" left P. Balman and founded his own high fashion house.
Low Dolidon, daughter Jane Birkin, that very, in honor of which Hermès. Created his famous bag, somehow said: " French style Inherent arrogance. The Frenchwoman very much respects himself and is so confident in his sense of style that to dictate to her that wearing or not to wear in one or another season is, first of all, it is useless. " In my opinion, her words very accurately reflect the three main qualities of the Frenchwoman: unwillingness to compromise, self-confidence and removal from reality.
To understand how to achieve the desired effect, look fashionable and at the same time, let's talk about what is offered today to their clients real French Brands Clothing, Shoes and Accessories. Most likely, their designers and stylists know, and on the subconscious level, what clothes, shoes and accessories offer fashionable.
My list of French brands of women's clothing looks like this (so that no one disappoints, I placed the brand in alphabetical order):
- Balenciaga.
- Balmain.
- BA & S.
- Céline
- Chanel.
- Christian Dior.
- Claudie Pierlot.
- Faith Connection.
- Givanchy.
- Hermès.
- Isabel Marant.
- Kenzo.
- MAISON MARGIELA.
- Moncler
- Morgan.
- Nina Ricci.
- Yves Saint Laurent.
In this article, I will tell about the ten French brands of women's clothing premium class, in the following - about democratic or, as they are called, budget Friendly..
Balenciaga.
Foundation Year: 1919
Creative Director: Demna Gvasalia
In fact, the founder of the brand - Cristobal Balenciaga - native of Spain. Because of the beginning in Spain Civil War Cristobal moved to Paris and in 1937 opened his first store there. Christian Dior called him "an example for all of us," and Coco Chanel argued that he was the only designer who truly knows how to lick and sew.
The end of the 1940s and 1950s are considered to be "Era Balenciagi": Kuturier has created many items of clothing, which are still used in the design of clothing. These are butterfly dresses, and a bag dress, and a semi-coath without buttons and a collar.
After the death of the maestro, the ideas of Balenciagi developed Andre Kurrzha and Emanuel Ungaro, but sales began to grow only with the arrival of Nicolas Gestaor in 1997.
Currently brand Balenciaga. It is famous for its avant-garde stylistic solutions. Balenciaga. always goes to step ahead of the rest; This brand is considered a kind of future fashion predictor.
Clothes Balenciaga. Celebrities Sienna Muller, Emmanuel Alt, Stephanie Seymour, Caroline Trinity, Hilary God and others.
According to publication Business of Fashion., in 2017 brand Balenciaga. became the second most popular brand clothes, lifting only Gucci..
Balmain.
Foundation Year: 1946
Creative Director: Olivier Rustin
The first boutique French Couturier Pierre Balman opened in Paris. Clients of this fashion house in for different years Were Vivien Lee, Catherine Hepburn, Chlorine Paul Belmondo, Sophie Loren, Marlene Dietrich and Jennifer Jones.
The lines of perfumery and accessories were launched on the 70s, in 1998 brand Balmain. He released the first miniature female chronograph, and since 2001, the Women's Swiss watches are produced under the same name.
On the official website of the company Balmain. You can buy an original bag ranging from from € 661 to € 1993.
Céline
Foundation Year: 1945
Creative Director: Hedi Slimman
Since 1996, brand since 1996 Céline Included in the International Holding LVMH. Initially, Celine Viwan and her husband Richard launched a luxury children's footwear line, but since 1960 the company produces bags and accessories for women. Clothing, Shoes and Accessories Céline Sold in more than one hundred boutiques worldwide, as well as in numerous online stores.
The minimum price of the original bag Céline It is € 720, the maximum - € 3,400.
Chanel.
Foundation year: 1910
Creative Director: Karl Lagerfeld
Coco Chanel made many elements of men's clothing in women's clothing. She first offered to replace close and uncomfortable corsets on loose trouser costumes and straight dresses. Thanks Chanel. Women began to dress less courses, but it is more comfortable, freely and liberated. External changes led to a change in the inner - women took an active life position and engaged in self-realization.
Despite the fact that Coco Chanel's career had up and downs, despite the fact that she collaborated with Gestapo and participated in conspiracy against Winston Churchill, its contribution to the development of fashion XX century is invaluable. With her light hands Symbols of good taste steel Twid costumes, pearl threads, perfume Chanel No. 5. and Coco Chanel., as well as quilted leather bags On the chains of golden or silver color 2.55, which appeared in February 1955.
Clothes and accessories Chanel. Not sold in online stores. Beware of fakes!
Clothes, shoes and accessories from Chanel. Catherine Denev, Vanessa Paradi, Marilyn Monroe, Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Tatu, Keira Knightley, Nicole Kidman and others.
The original Chanel bags from the 2018 collection can be purchased in Chanel branded stores at prices, not lower than:
Chanel PVC / Iridescent Patent Boy Water Small Flap Bag - $4,500.00
Chanel Braided Lambskin Boy Chanel Old Medium Flap Bag - $5,100.00
Chanel Embroidered Denim / Tweed Mini Flap Bag - $5,800.00
Chanel Tweed / PVC Gabrielle Hobo Bag - $5,000.00
CHANEL SEQUIN WATERFALL WAIST BAG - $2,800.00
Chanel PVC Coco Splash Medium Flap Bag - $3,000.00
Chanel Medium Coco Handle Bag - $4,300.00
Chanel Printed PVC Coco Bucket Large Bag - $3,700.00
Christian Dior.
Foundation Year: 1946
Creative Director: Maria Kury
The first collection of Christian Diora was presented in 1947 and had such a success that in 1949 three-quarters of the export of products of the fashion industry of France had accounted for Christian Dior..
At the moment Christian Dior. Looks for female and men's clothing, shoes, accessories, cosmetics, clocks, as well as underwear.
At the moment brand Christian Dior. belongs LVMH.
Givenchy.
Foundation Year: 1952
Creative Director: Claire Wait Keller
In 1953, French designer YUBER DE Zhivani began cooperation with Audrey Hepburn, which lasted 39 years. Together with the beginning of his artistic career, Audrey, they created a style in which elegance was combined with natural beauty. Yumber Zhivyushi sewed alongside Audrey Hepburn for films "Funny face", "Breakfast at Tiffany", "How to steal Million" and "Sharada".
At the funeral of John Kennedy Jacqueline Kennedy was in a black dress from Givenchy..
In 1987, a trendy house Givenchy. was bought by the French concern LVMHwho also owns such Parisian fashion houses as Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Christian Lacroix and Céline.
In 1995, YUBER DE Zhistashi left his trendy house and retired.
For a wedding with Prince Harry Actress was dressed in a dress from Givenchy.created by Claire Wait Keller. For the manufacture of fate, embroidered with a floral pattern and symbolizing 53 countries from the Commonwealth of Nations, consisted of hundreds of hours manual labor Master brand.
Hermès.
Creative Director: Pierre Alex Duma
Year of foundation: 1837
Initially Hermès. It was founded as a workshop for the manufacture of equipment for riding and horse crews. With time Hermès. Began to produce finished clothes for men and women, perfume, accessories, clock and jewelry.
The most famous products Hermès. - Bags Kelly - in honor of Grace Kelly and Birkin.- in honor of Jane Birkin.
Bags Hermès. Sew from the skin of the calf, ostrich, crocodile or lizard. The manufacture of one bag leaves from 14 to 18 hours.
In 2015, after the PETA organization (people for ethical animal handling) accused Hermès in cruel handling of crocodiles, Jane Birkin banned the use of her name on bags.
Collection of bags Birkin. Victoria Beckham has more than 100 units.
One of the bags Birkin.Made of crocodile leather inlaid by 18-carat gold and decorated with 245 diamonds was sold at auction in Hong Kong for $ 377,261 USA.
Isabel Marant.
Foundation year: 1994
Creative Director: Isabel Maran
French brand Isabel Marant. Looks clothes, decorations, accessories and shoes. Sneakers on the heel, released in 2011, made the brand world famous. The popularity of sneakers Isabel Marant. Asylum with the popular boot from the Australian brand Ugg.
Clothes and shoes Isabel Marant. Kate Batsou, Katie Holmes, Ann Hatwah and Hilary Duff.
Isabel Marant sneaker price tag is from $ 288 (if there is a seasonal discount) to $ 600.
French brand Louis Vuitton
Year of foundation: 1854
Creative Director: Nicolas Gesket
This french brand specializes in the production of suitcases, bags, belts, watches and jewelry, as well as on the sewing of female and men's premium class clothes. Currently, Louis Vuitton is part of the international Holding LVMH. With a complete list of companies included in the holding, you can familiarize yourself.
Like brand Hermès, Louis Vuiitton The most famous thanks to suitcases and bags. The brand produces their very beginning of its activities. When producing LV bags uses skin and tissue. Fabrics in a cage, monogram fabric in the form of a brand logo and a fabric in a red and beige strip are enjoying great popularity.
Brand does not suit sales from fundamental considerations, and all non-sold bags Louis Vuitton. burns. This automatically means to buy an original bag Louis Vuitton. With a discount it is impossible, only if you do not buy it in the Second Hand. This is what is written on the official LV website (Clicable Screenshot):
MAISON MARGIELA.
Year of foundation: 1988
Creative Director: John Galliano
Despite the fact, Martin Marvelo - Belgian, fashionable luxury house MAISON MARGIELA. It was founded in Paris. The brand sews female and men's clothing rushing-a-port and from-couture, and also produces accessories, decorations, perfumes, shoes and interior items. MAISON MARGIELA Mark is famous for its avant-garde and deconstationist design. Margela crumbled clothes from posters, socks, fur hats and false eyelashes.
Martin Margela does not communicate with photographers and journalists, never comes to the public after the shows, and all questions are responsible solely by fax. The idea of \u200b\u200binvisibility is brought to Grotesque. For example, the faces of the models at the Spring-Summer Summer collection show were closed in the Kapron and hidden under the wigs.
Nevertheless, brand MAISON MARGIELA. It is considered one of the most influential in the Fashion business. Brand Collections inspired designers Hermès, Mark Jacobs, Junya Watanabe and Prada.. MAISON MARGIELA often cooperates with other brands, including Opening Ceremony, Converse, Swarovski, L'Oreal and H & M..
France is one of the first countries that committed a fracture in fashion at the beginning of the 19th century. Thanks to famous French fashion houses, such as Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Ungaro, Givenchy, Christian Lacroix, Hermes, Jean Paul Gaultier and other famous names, modeling and creating clothes stopped being craft and became art. In addition, much of what we use now, what we wear, and what seems to us so natural and ordinary, first appeared thanks to the famous French fashion designers.
The domination of the French fashion began with the middle of the XVII century, during the time of Louis XIV. It was then that the phenomenon of "World Fashion" originated. The clothes gradually began to obey certain laws dictated by the French royal yard. Already then, France made its contribution to the formation of fashion: corset, umbrella, high heel, lacing on the bodice, lorennet, triomaniac.
Coco Chanel's name with gold letters insisted in history modern fashion. Her first discovery was the male English classic style for women. Short haircuts, jackets, knitted pullovers and checkered skirts, ladies handbag on a thin strap over the shoulder and small black dress, which became the symbol of the elegance of the twentieth century ... All this was invented and created Coco Chanel. She was the first to reflect the twentieth century in fashion, aligning comfort and elegance in his works.
Separate story require her perfume Chanel No. 5.who have become a legend. In perfumes earlier, the smell of one flower prevailed - roses, violets, jasmine, lilac, valley, mixes of various flavors in female spirits considered indecent. IN Chanels number 5. The fragrant fragrance of the spring flowering garden. By the way, Chanel herself used his spirits only in the city, natural flavors preferred in nature.
The secret of the success of Christian Dior was in the new image of a woman, in a root different from the fashion of the 40s. Women who were tired of the war wanted to be feminine and elegant. Dior created dresses for ladies with an aspen waist and sloped shoulders, and on his bouffant skirts It took up to 40 meters of luxurious fabrics. The internal design of the model, allowing even the hanger to keep a harsh shape, remains secret to the present.
In addition, already in the 50s, Christian Dior creates several lines of stylization of clothing under "H", "X", "Y" and "A". Today, practically no collection is done without the "dior" silhouettes.
Sensation of perfumery of the end of the 20th century was the "poison" set from Christian Dior - Poison., Tender Poison. and Hypnotic Poison.. Dark glass flask with magic drug - the heritage of the Middle Ages. Sensual, spicy fragrance and thin loop from a bouquet of forest berries forever remained the property of Dior.
Yves Saint Laurent 40 years old gave the art of high fashion. None of the fashion designers were so inventive, none created such a number of styles. The beginning of the creative career of the recognized genius century had to be in the 60s, the heyday of the hippie movements and youth protest all established traditions.
The innovator and the Fader Yves Saint-Laurent admitted that he regret only that he did not invented jeans. But otherwise, the Fashion of the last forty years is obliged to him almost everyone. Famous trouser suits, transparent dresses and tuxedo, mini became the same as usual as maxi, and the black color became the color of the day. Yves Saint-Laurent caught new trends in the development of society and exquisitely transformed the spirit of this rebar time in "from Couture".
Shocking can be called and its famous perfume. The idea of \u200b\u200bthe name I. external view Flacon Opium.it belongs to Iva Saint-Laurean. Like all the great spirits, this composition was created in counterweights at least to fragrances: Saint-Laurent set the task to create "something suitable for the Chinese Empress in front of the laboratory perfumes.
Cardin is the standard of Paris taste and chic. In his creations, the principles of classicism intertwined with modern ideas and innovations. Own style Pierre Cardin found quickly: the silhouette was made more direct and narrow, with very clear contours. This has become a distinctive feature of the Carden.
In 1949, Cardin made a revolutionary act by developing a collection of finished dresses for industrial replication. The high-fashion trade union excluded the designer from his ranks, but soon recognized such collections, giving them the name "Pret-A-Port". In 1958, he created the first "Unisex" line, which united men and women on the principle of general lifestyle.
Pierre Cardin was delighted with the appearance of the 60s. Mini fashion. The masters's talent was very fitted with her style: structural, interconnected parts and love for geometric lines. In addition, it was Cardin who came up with and introduced the tights that coincide with the mini skirt. Also, Cardin came up with many forms and structures, which at different times they conquered the world: straight and narrowed books of dresses - "bags", "Tulips" skirts, metal decorations, appliques and patterns, rigid vinyl kaym on bezes and crinolines- "lampsures" Under tight dresses.
John Galliano is a young Spaniard who lived in England, but famous as a French fashion designer, he surprises the originality, courage and a cocktail from all sorts of styles, drawing all this from his imagination, emotions and fantasies. He is a leading designer of the fashion house Dior. Mermaid dress, tailored in oblique, with a loop, painted lilies. And the dizzy height of the heels is such a woman dior now. Or rather, the woman is Galiano.
Among the inventions are Galliano a lot of clothes previously considered unsuitable, and now too traditional. This, for example, skirts tailored by oblique or original stroke sleeves invented in college.
He adores the quidnings, grits jewels, embroidery, fringe, appliques - and at the same time can hinder a simple dress so that it will be the limit of dreams. A born showman, he can with closed eyes describe all the technical details of the cut of the 18th century vest.
Galliano is one of the few modern designers who really knows how to sew clothes. Even in our time, when it is difficult to surprise modern society, he is in the best traditions French fashion designers, continues to shock the public.
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