The Russian national costume can be conditionally subdivided into the costume of the Kiev and North-Eastern Russia of the X-XIV centuries, the costume of the Muscovite Russia of the XV-XVII centuries, the folk costume of the XVIII - early XX centuries. In addition, in each time period, one can distinguish a costume, traditional for commoners, and outfits of noble persons. Before the adoption of Christianity, the clothing of the ancient Slavs traced the features of a Scythian costume (shirts, pants).
Linen and wool were the main materials for clothing during this period. In the 10th century, under the influence of the new faith, silk tunics, basket cloaks on a red lining that came from Byzantium appeared in the costume of princes and their entourage, tunics, Dalmatians, draped cloaks appeared in the wardrobe of their wives and daughters. The clothes of noble persons were sewn from expensive imported fabrics and decorated with gold and silver embroidery, jewelry, furs.
In Peter's and subsequent eras, the costume of the nobility changed greatly and became no longer a Russian national costume, but a kind of European one. Only in the peasant and partly merchant environment are old traditions preserved. Men still wear shirts, ports, zipuns and caftans, sheepskin coats. The women's costume practically does not change either. The main women's clothing continues to be a shirt and a sundress.
In different localities, different colors and ways of cutting sundresses were traditional. In the 18th century, they were sewn from canvas and calico red or blue and decorated with a central vertical strip of ribbon, lace, a row of buttons, the same ribbon was sewn along the bottom of the hem, at the top of the sundress, and sometimes under the bust. In the 19th century, sundresses are sewn from chintz, kumach, satin, satin and other purchased fabrics, often not monochromatic, but patterned; at the top, the fabric is collected in small folds. Such items of clothing as epancha, dushegreya, poneva and an apron continue to remain a part of women's costume.
The basis of the women's folk costume of the X-XIV centuries was a long shirt with long sleeves, decorated with embroidery at the neckline or a strip of fabric in a contrasting color. A shirt was never worn just like that, they put on a pnevka, a zapon or a bib on top. Poneva is a skirt below the knee, consisting of three rectangular pieces of fabric, connected at the waist with a belt. Ponevs were usually sewn from brightly colored fabric.
The zapona was a straight, sleeveless dress with a round neckline, with slits on the sides from the waist to the bottom. The zapona was tied with a cord. A bib is an upper short dress with short sleeves and a round neckline, decorated with embroidery or stripes of fabric of a different color along the hem and neckline. By the headdress it was possible to judge the marital status of a woman. Unmarried girls wore headbands or hoops, and married women covered their heads with a warrior (something like a scarf) and an ubrus (a piece of long cloth that was tied around the head in a certain way).
Some innovations also appear in the women's costume of the 15th-17th centuries, although it is still based on a straight long shirt. A sundress is now worn over it - a kind of dress with a straight bodice with straps and a flared skirt. Peasant women sew it from linen, and noble girls from silk and brocade. A strip of wide braid or embroidered fabric of a contrasting color was sewn on the front of the sundress in the center from top to bottom. The sundress was belted under the chest. In addition, the outer garment for women was soul-warming - short open-back clothes with straps, with or without lining. The soul-warmer was sewn from beautiful patterned fabrics and additionally decorated along the edge with an embroidered braid.
Merchant and boyar daughters at that time wore an summer dress over a shirt - a long straight-cut dress with wide sleeves sewn to the elbow like a bell, and then just hanging down almost to the floor. Several gussets were sewn into the side of the dress, due to which the clothes became very wide at the bottom. The collar and hanging sleeves were richly decorated with pearls, embroidered with gold and silk. Warm outerwear was a long-sleeved false coat. Telograa was a long, open-top garment with fold-over sleeves, fastened with buttons or ties.
An important element of a woman's costume was the headdress. Girls do not cover their heads, but decorate their braids with colored ribbons and beads, and put hoops or crowns on their heads. Married women wear "kichki" - headdresses consisting of a hoop, a cloth cover and a decorated backdrop. At the same time, a kokoshnik appeared - a headdress with a dense front part of various shapes, richly decorated with gold and silver embroidery, pearls and precious stones. The kokoshnik was tied at the back with wide ribbons, sometimes precious pendants or beads fell on the front of the forehead and temples. At the back, thin beautiful fabrics could be attached to the kokoshnik, which fell in folds to the waist, or even to the floor. In winter, noble young ladies wore fur hats, like men's.
The traditional everyday clothes of commoners in the X-XIV centuries were shirts and ports. Shirts were sewn from linen fabric of various colors or motley lengths below the hips with one-piece sleeves. They were worn outside and tied at the waist with a colored cord or narrow belt. On holidays, the shirt was complemented with embroidered sleeves and round collars.
Ports are men's pants, tapering to the bottom and tied at the waist with a drawstring. The traditional footwear of peasants (both men and women) was bast shoes, instead of socks in those days there were onuchi, strips of fabric that were tied around the feet and ankles. The men wore felt caps on their heads.
In the XV-XVII centuries, the everyday costume of the peasants changed somewhat. So the traditional cut on the neck of a man's shirt moves from the center to the left side, and the shirt itself becomes shorter and gets the name "blouse". Open clothes appeared, fastened with buttons: a zipun and a caftan. Zipun was a cloth dress above the knees, slightly widened at the bottom, with narrow sleeves and a butt closure.
Kaftan is an outerwear below the knee with long sleeves and a high collar. Caftans of noble boyars were usually richly decorated with expensive fabrics, embroidery, braid or galloon. Outer winter clothing was a long swinging fur coat with wide sleeves and a large collar lined with sable, fox, hare, polar fox, squirrel, and sheepskin. From above, the fur coat was usually covered with cloth (the peasants used cloth for this, and the boyars used expensive imported fabrics).
During this period, the costumes of the feudal nobility and peasants began to differ more and more, and not only in the quality of fabrics and decoration, but even in the cut of clothing. In the 15th-17th centuries, the wardrobe of noble persons includes such items of clothing as the feryaz and ohaben. Feriaz is a special cut long-sleeved caftan made of silk or velvet fabric. It was customary to put Feriaz on only one hand, while strongly pulling up the long sleeve, while the second hung loosely behind almost to the floor.
Ohaben was also a kind of caftan with a large quadrangular collar that hung down the back and long sleeves tied at the back. Such a caftan was worn on the shoulders. Both of these garments were completely unsuitable for any kind of work and were only intended to emphasize the class of their owner.
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Lesson objectives:
- To acquaint students with the history of Russian folk costume; with the creativity of the Russian people, its culture and traditions.
- Develop spatial imagination, intellectual abilities, awaken curiosity in the field of folk, arts and crafts.
- Educational: To contribute to the formation of an idea of the decorative and applied art of the Russian people, spiritual culture and emotional attitude to reality.
- Educational: to bring up in children a love for their native country, people, for culture, for the traditions of their people.
Equipment:
- Presentation "History of Russian Costume".
- Visual aids: images of Russian costume, products with embroidery elements.
- For practical work: album sheet, glue, colored paper, scraps of fabric, pencils, felt-tip pens, scissors, beads, colored threads, braid.
DURING THE CLASSES
I. Organizational part of the lesson
Check the readiness of students for the lesson.
II. Introductory speech of the teacher
- Today in the lesson we will get acquainted with the history of Russian folk costume. The study of traditional folk costume is of great historical and practical interest. Clothing, being one of the important elements of material culture, reflects the social and economic changes that took place in certain historical periods.
III. Explanation of the new material. Presentation
Clothes in Russia were loose, long and unusually colorful. Shirts and sundresses were sewn from homespun canvas and decorated with embroidery, patterned weaving, braid compositions, lace stripes, ribbons, sequins and beads. The most elegant clothes were considered to be made of red fabric. (Slide 3).
From time immemorial, festive and everyday clothes had a complex decorative design, where embroidery and lace trimming played an important role. Therefore, according to custom, the girl from an early age began to teach these difficult, but fascinating types of creativity. Over the course of many generations, each nation inhabiting the vast expanses of our Motherland has developed its own techniques and methods of forming an embroidery pattern and the art of weaving lace. The history of Russian costume testifies to the fact that changes in clothing, the fashion movement itself, almost did not affect the common people. At the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries, the Russian peasant wore about the same as in the days of Ancient Rus: a hat, trousers, a shirt, sewn from two pieces (canvases). Women wore a skirt over their long, below the knee shirts. From outerwear, capes were in use, and shoes, if there were any (they often walked barefoot), were bast shoes or soles held on by belts. In the cold, the legs were wrapped in canvas (onuchi). (Slide 4).
Ladies' festive clothing of young women has always been distinguished by the greatest brightness. (Slide 5).
Festive clothing, northern Russia (Slide 6).
Women's festive clothing of the Ryazan and Voronezh provinces (Slide 7).
Women's festive clothing, Tambov and Kursk provinces (Slide 8).
For many peoples, ancient festive clothes have a three-tiered system of decorations. The headdress and the upper part of the costume are associated with the image of the sky, therefore, in the patterns of this part of the clothing, they turned to the sun, the stars, and the birds. The ribbons coming down from the hats symbolize rain. The patterns and embroidery are dominated by the image of a fertile land.
The people describe the Russian costume as follows:
Conspiracy spell
Will I go into a clear field -
Under the red sun
Under the light of the month
Under the flying clouds
I will become in an open field
Out of the blue
I will clothe myself with clouds
I'll cover myself with heaven
I put my head on
Red sun,
I'll gird myself with bright dawns,
I will be surrounded by frequent stars
With sharp arrows -
From every evil ailment. (Slide 9).
Jewelry was passed down from generation to generation with cherished letters that can be read like a book. Each element of the ornament had its own meaning and meaning. Scientists note three meanings of the ornament:
- Glory to the deity! Holiday.
- A request for fertility.
- Thanks to God for what you have done. (Slide 10).
Embroidery is one of the most widespread types of folk art. The art of creating patterns on fabrics using needles and threads has been known for a long time. From early childhood, girls learned to embroider. This occupation was traditional for a Russian woman in both a poor and a rich family. A peasant girl had to prepare her own dowry: a wedding dress, party clothes, bed linen, tablecloths, towels and much more. Women of all classes filled their free time with embroidery.
All items included in the dowry were bright and decorative. (Slide 11).
Embroidery not only made the costume more beautiful and richer, but also had a different meaning. According to popular belief, it was supposed to bring happiness to a person, protect him from all evil and misfortune, bring him closer to the surrounding nature. (Slide 12).
Ancient Slavic ornaments keep a big secret.
The man tried to figure out how the world works, to find an explanation for the incomprehensible, mysterious, mysterious. He strove to attract the good forces of nature to himself, and to defend himself from the evil, and he did this with the help of his art. Man expressed his concepts of the world with conventional signs: a straight horizontal line denoted the earth, a wavy horizontal line - water, a vertical line turned into rain; fire, the sun were depicted with a cross. The pattern was built from these elements and their combinations. The sun has long been revered by all agricultural peoples. "Not the earth will give birth, but the sky," says a Russian proverb. How elegant and festive look objects of peasant life, decorated with solar circles - symbols of the sun! The image of the sun occupies one of the main places in the decoration of the home. The sun in the form of round rosettes, rhombuses, horses can be found in various types of folk art.
The Russian peasant has lived on land since ancient times. He associated the earth, its fertility with the image of the mother. The female figure is a deity that expressed ideas about the land that will give birth, and about the woman - the continuer of the clan. This image is called differently: the great goddess of the earth, fertility, mother - the earth is damp, Makosh, which means "mother of a good harvest." The female figure is always associated with symbols of fertility: trees, birds, animals, sun signs. Look at how conditionally it is solved. Branches often sprout from the body of the goddess, and instead of a head she has an image of a rhombus - an ancient sign of the sun. Sometimes her figure resembles a tree. The female figure with arms directed upward symbolized the unity of the forces of earth and sky, on which human life depended. (Slide 13).
Woman suit
The main parts of the women's folk costume were a shirt, an apron, or a curtain, a sundress, a poneva, a bib and a shushpan. A women's shirt was sewn from white linen or colored silk and was worn with a belt. It was long, up to the feet, with long, gathered in low sleeves, with a slit from the neck, fastened with a button. (Slide 14).
Shirts and sundresses were decorated with embroidery. Women's hats: kokoshniks, kiki, magpies, warriors were of the most unprecedented form. They were very fond of soul warmers in Russia. It resembled a small sarafan and was worn over a sundress and sewn from expensive fabrics. (Slide 15).
The shirt - the basis of the women's folk costume, was sewn from white linen or hemp linen. Decorated with embroidery that protected the woman from the "evil eye". The collars, mantles, chest and hem were especially decorated - the places of possible "entrances" of evil forces. The shirts in which the women were mowing were called "haymaking shirts." They were worn without a sundress. It was believed that the richer the shirt is decorated, the happier and more successful its owner, and touching the ground with the hem, the woman received vitality from her, and, in turn, embroidery with symbols of fertility gave strength to the earth. (Slide 16).
A sundress was worn over a shirt, decorated in front with a patterned stripe, braid, silver lace, patterned buttons.
In the south of Russia, instead of a sundress, they wore a poneva - a homespun checkered wool skirt. It was trimmed with ribbons and braid. An apron, also adorned with images of earth and water, was relied upon to wake up. He guarded the stomach. For a woman of those times, the belly was the basis of life, a symbol of procreation. (Slide 17).
Epanechka - a short flared blouse, sleeveless, sewn from brocade. Soul warmer. It resembled a small sarafan and was worn over a sundress, sewn from expensive fabrics. (Slide 18).
Poneva is a skirt consisting of three panels of woolen or semi-woolen fabric, tied at the waist with a narrow braided belt - a gashnik; it was worn only by married women. Poneva - ancient clothing, mentioned in written sources of the pre-Mongol period.
The term "ponyava" ("poneva", "ponka") is a common Slavic term, at first it meant a piece of cloth, a veil, a veil.
Fabrics for ponews were taken home-made: woolen (yarn mainly from sheep's wool) and from plant fiber - hemp. The technique of making the fabric was the simplest - plain weave. The alternation of woolen and vegetable threads created a pattern of cells on the fabric.
Ponevs, like shirts, were divided into festive, common and everyday. Everyday people got off at the bottom with a narrow strip of homespun braid. In festive occasions, much attention was paid to the "clutch" - these are stripes on the hem, in which all the richness of the decoration was used to the maximum.
Poneva was worn mainly by married women, and in the memory of the people it remained as "an eternal collar and woman's bondage."
The figure of a woman in these clothes seemed more squat than in a sundress. Rural clothes corresponded to the way of peasant life, and the fullness of a woman meant health for a peasant woman, and health meant both children and work tirelessly, "to a sweat."
The majority of the girls was celebrated among the people by the ritual - "to drive them into a punk", when on a holiday a girl with all her relatives would wear a girl-friend on a holiday. Finally, they donned it during the wedding.
The ponyevs worn by the young wife before the birth of their first child were the most beautiful. After the wedding, the young woman wore a ponevu with a “tail” made of red cloth, silk, fringes, and even bells. (Slide 19).
The most decorative, ornate part of the female Russian costume was the apron, or curtain, covering the front of the female figure. Usually it was made of canvas and decorated with embroidery, woven patterns. Colored trim inserts, silk patterned ribbons. The edge of the apron was decorated with teeth, white or colored lace, fringes made of silk or woolen threads, fringes of various thicknesses. They were worn with sundresses. (Slide 20).
Headdress. A very important part of the costume. In the old days, like a passport, it was possible to learn a lot about a woman6 her age, marital status, social stratum, number of children. The girls wore crowns and headbands and had the right to walk with simple hair. Married women hid their hair under a kokoshnik (from the word "kokosh" - rooster, kick or kichka, magpie).
The headdress, in folk performances, was associated with the sky, it was decorated with symbols of the sun, stars, trees, birds. The strands of pearls and temple decorations symbolized the streams of rain. A veil made of fine patterned fabric was thrown over the kokoshnik.
Headdresses were divided into girls and women, or "women". The girls, according to custom, braided their hair in one braid, leaving the crown of the head open. Therefore, their headdress is all kinds of crowns, headbands, hoops, which were decorated with river pearls, beads. The "bandage", or, as it was often called, "beauty", "volyushka", in each village had its own form and ornament. The girl's headdress was complemented by "cannons" - balls of white goose or swan down, as well as "curls" - bright Drake feathers.
The basis of all Russian women's headdresses, despite their diversity, was a hard forehead part, depending on the shape (flat, shovel-shaped, with horns) called puffed up or a horned puss. From above it was covered with red calico, chintz or velvet. The back of the head was covered with a rectangular strip of fabric - backing. The complex headdress consisted of up to 12 items, with a total weight of up to 5 kilograms.
Young women in the first year of marriage folded their fly with a tourniquet and tied it warrior or magpie ends first. In the 19th century, head towels and flys were replaced by handkerchiefs. They first covered the head on soft hairs, and then directly on the hair, both women and girls. The girls tied the scarf under the chin, and the married "like a woman" - the ends back. (Slide 21).
Women's hats. (Slides 22, 23, 24).
Various decorations played an important role in the costume. In large numbers, necklaces made of pearls and beads, colored wool, gaitans were worn around the neck, made of beads, to which were hung crosses, images, amber beads, blown glass beads, ribbons. At the end of the long braid there is a beaded braid. Large earrings and pendants were in great love, sometimes they reached the shoulders. Colored belts, narrow braided belts and wide rainbow woven sashes complemented and adorned the costume, completing the whole ensemble. (Slide 25).
Wedding suit- the most elegant and solemn. A wedding is an ancient ceremony. The ancient peasants firmly believed that the future life of the bride and groom depends on how the wedding goes. Therefore, all the rituals and signs were observed at the wedding. The wedding dress was sewn long before the celebration, as it required a lot of time and labor. All elements of the costume were carefully decorated, protected from evil forces and misfortunes with symbols and ornaments that affirmed happiness, longevity, and healthy offspring. (Slide 26).
Wedding hats. (Slide 27).
Men's suit
A peasant's costume in Russia consisted of ports and a shirt made of homespun canvas. Since the fabric was narrow (up to 60 cm), the shirt was cut out of separate parts, which were then sewn together, and the seams were decorated with decorative red piping. Shirts were worn outside and girded with a narrow belt or colored cord. The ports were sewn narrow, narrowed to the bottom, up to the ankle, tied at the waist with a lace - a gashnik. Over them, wealthy people also wore top silk or cloth pants, sometimes lined. To the bottom, they were tucked into either onuchi - pieces of fabric with which the legs were wrapped, tying them with special ties - frills, and then they put on bast shoes, or in colored leather boots. (Slide 28).
Festive men's clothing, Penza and Vologda provinces. (Slide 29).
The men's shirt was decorated with embroidery. (Slide 30).
Outerwear was a zipun or a caftan made of homespun cloth, wrapped on the left side, with a fastener on hooks or buttons; in winter - sheepskin fur coats. Zipun is a semi-adjacent, widened-down silhouette with a butt closure. Its length was from the middle of the knees and above. The sleeve is narrow, up to the wrist. The armhole was straight, the sleeve had no ridge. The caftan, worn over the zipun, differed not only in decoration, but also in a constructive solution. Some caftans (regular, home, weekend) were of a straight silhouette, extended downwards and not cut-off along the waist line. Others had a close-fitting silhouette with a cropped waistline and a wide, gathered hem. Their dina ranged from knees to ankles. Buttonholes on the chest and on the side slits, metal, wooden, braided from a cord and buttons made of artificial pearls were used for their decoration. (Slide 31).
The most expensive and fashionable thing in a suit was button... In Russia, the largest buttons were made the size of a chicken egg. Buttons were made of gold, silver, pearls, crystal, metal and braided from gimp. Each button had its own name. Sometimes the buttons were more expensive than the dress itself. (Slide 32).
We watched the presentation with you, got acquainted with the history of the Russian costume. Now, I suggest you, based on the knowledge gained, do some practical work.
IV. Practical work
Make sketches of Russian folk costume. Applique according to the made sketch using colored paper, scraps of fabric, beads, braid, etc.
V. Summing up and analyzing the lesson
- What new have you learned in the lesson today? What do you remember the most? Let's see your work, what you got.
Exhibition of students' works. Determination of the best works. Grading.
Fomina Anastasia
The purpose of the work is a detailed acquaintance with the folk costume of the Voronezh and Belgorod regions, to compare them, to find out the influence of the folk costume on the development of artistic crafts.
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MUNICIPAL BUDGETARY EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTION SECONDARY EDUCATIONAL SCHOOL №92
CITY DISTRICT VORONEZH
History of Russian folk costume
Head: Kazmina Nadezhda Mitrofanovna,
Teacher of history
Voronezh-2012
P.
I. Introduction 3- 4
II. Main part
1. Folk women's costume of Belgorod region 5-7
2. Women's peasant costume of the Voronezh province 8-12
3. Folk costume in the tradition of my family. 13-18
III. Conclusion 19-20
IV. References 21
Respect for the past is the devil
distinguishing education from savagery.
A.S. Pushkin
I. Introduction
Russian folk clothes have a long history. Its general character, which has developed in the life of many generations, corresponds to the external appearance, way of life, geographical location and the nature of the work of the people.
Russian folk costume has evolved over the centuries, and its development was caused by socio-economic changes in the life of the people, religious beliefs and contacts with other national cultures. The beauty of Russian folk costume gives people joy, awakens artists in them, teaches them to feel and understand beauty. Embroidery, patterned weaving, lace-making are embodied in the decoration of folk costumes.
Antiques help to recreate the history of their owners, reflect the personality and image of a person. Modern fashion designers use folk costume as a source of creative searches: cut lines, adornment techniques in clothes.
Each province had its own version of the costume. The clothes of each province had its own ornament, decoration, forms and styles. It depended on the climatic conditions of the area where the given people lived and on what they did.
Young people of today know little about Russian folk costumes. Russian traditional clothes can be seen only at folklore festivals. Some grandmothers keep folk costumes in chests. I'm lucky. My own grandmothers, on my father's side, who live in the village of Rogovatoe in the Belgorod region on the border with the Voronezh region, keep their costumes, they often tell how they wore them, what they made from.
The purpose of the work is a detailed acquaintance with the folk costume of the Voronezh and Belgorod regions, to compare them, to find out the influence of the folk costume on the development of artistic crafts. In the work on this topic, fundamental questions have been posed: what information does the national costume carry? What is the Russian national costume today? Why do we need to know the history of Russian folk costume today?
In her work, she used the literature of domestic authors, encyclopedic and explanatory dictionaries, resources of the World Wide Web, interviews with old-timers of the village of Rogovatoe
II. 1.Folk women's costume of the Belgorod region
Over the course of several centuries, the tradition of creating those forms of clothing that were most functional and adapted to climatic conditions, and also served to convey certain information about their owners, developed. For Russia as a whole, there are two types of women's costume set: North Russian , which is based on a shirt and a long sundress, and South Russian , the second component of which is a short and voluminous poneva. But at the same time, each region of Russia has created its own unique version of the costume. The word "fashion" was unknown to the peasants, but every village, village had its own favorite, proven methods of making, decorating and wearing certain types of clothing.
In the Belgorod region, which belongs to the southern regions of Russia, several types of female peasant costume can be identified. They are based on a white shirt made of home-made linen and poneva - a belt type of clothing made of homespun wool.
The integral parts of the costume were a headdress (scarf, warrior, kichka or magpie), an apron (zapon, curtain, curtain), shoes, breast and back ornaments.
An important property of folk clothing is its layering, thanks to which the woman was always dressed “according to the weather,” and in the house there was only the necessary minimum of things, more precisely, two suits. One is smart for the holiday. They took care of it, it did not wear out, it was passed on by inheritance, and the other was everyday, without decorations, it was renewed after it came into complete disrepair. Simple cut and loose forms of clothing allowed different family members to wear the same things, which in a modest peasant life was an important quality. Clothes served not only as a shell for the body, protecting it from bad weather, but also from the "evil eye". For this there was a number of "magic" elements - cross stitching along all edges, red inserts, etc. Clothing was a kind of language that spoke about a woman's belonging to a certain social group, about the wealth in her family, about where she was from, about her marital status. So, an unmarried girl wore an open headdress and a belted shirt, after the wedding she was supposed not to appear in front of strangers without a warrior or kichi and be sure to wear a ponyeva.
The basis of the costume complex of the Slavs was shirt , which was sewn from 4 pieces of homespun linen canvas. Red and black embroidery covered the upper part of the sleeves with a geometric ornament, with a wide border located on the front side of the bottom of the shirts, passing along the neckline and edge of the cuffs. The shirt was long and wide. At home, she changed her dress. If a woman went out "to the people", then the shirt was supplemented with a ponyov and a sash (belt).Belgorod shirts were richly decorated. Used woven patterns, embroidery, sequins, fabric patches, lace
Ponyov sewn from a checkered woolen homespun fabric. Three narrow panels were not simply connected to each other, but had abundant embroidery and tassels at the seams. Along the bottom of the ponytail there was always a strip of braid, bright and elegant. Poneva - the main part of the South Russian complex, a hip skirt worn on a shirt was sewn mainly of woolen checkered homespun fabric, the more ancient, swing-open poneva was sewn from three panels and was fastened on the belt with a gashnik.
Red was considered the most beloved color in the Belgorod Territory; it was a symbol of the sun, fire, blood and meant warmth, love, victory, beauty. Green is the color of the surrounding nature. Yellow meant separation. The black color symbolized eternal rest, night and black earth.
The oldest type of women's clothing is poneva. The main color is red, but each village has its own shades. Green, dark blue, burgundy stripes marked the roads. And the black windows of the squares symbolized the plots of the field, by the size of which it was judged that the peasants had land. Embroidered poneva with such seams as painting, set, counting surface. Each woman had up to 10 or more ponies. From the cells, one could guess the county, village, age, marital status of a woman.
Poneva was the dress of married women, in ritual songs she was called "the eternal yoke", "woman's bondage". Each woman had 10-15 ponies - skirts. The main color is black, red, often checkered.
Belt in the Belgorod region it is called "sub-belt". The circle is a talisman, it was believed that the belt increases a person's strength, protects him from adversity. In Russia, this was the first gift for a newborn. Belts were an indispensable attribute of both women's and men's suits, distinguished by a juicy range of multicolored stripes on the main red background.
In an elegant suit played a very important role apron ... He did not so much protect the shirt and ponytail from pollution as he adorned the woman. The apron, also known as "zapon", "curtain", "curtain" could be with or without sleeves, its hem was composed of stripes of embroidery, lace, red calico.
Hats were very varied. The most common was a purchased or homespun shawl. There were also other types of hats: warrior (sometimes in combination with a beaded "back cap"), "kichka", "magpie".
Chest straps were also made of beads and bugles. decorations - monista, necklaces. There were so many adornments that they sometimes completely covered the upper part of the shirt and cuff.
These things in the ensemble create the image that Russian peasant women tried to match. And sometimes a small detail, for example, the manner of tying a scarf, or the use of a different color scheme, made the costume unique and original.
2. Female peasant costume of the Voronezh province
The Russian national costume has its own characteristics depending on the region and differs in the features of the cut, fabric, colors, ornaments, the composition of the costume and the way of wearing its various parts. Traditional Russian clothing, despite its diversity, was divided into two groups: the North Great Russian provinces and the South Great Russian provinces.
On the territory of the Voronezh region, the South Great Russian type prevailed, but with its own local characteristics, and the differences could even be within the same village. It should be noted that the peculiar features of the Voronezh folk costume are associated, first of all, with the history of the settlement of the region.
The Voronezh region is distinguished by a wide variety of costumes due to the chaotic settlement of the region. The "Wild Field" was inhabited by service people, the offspring of boyar families, archers, gunners, free Cossacks, Circassians (immigrants from Ukraine). Since the 18th century. the lands of the Voronezh province were presented to boyars, nobles and other noble people. The mass resettlement of state and serfs by families and entire villages from Ryazan, Tambov, Moscow, Oryol, Kursk provinces and the Ukraine began.
In the folk costume, every detail and every color was symbolic. So, in the Voronezh folk costume, three colors are necessarily present - white, red and black. And black - the color of earth and peace - is considered a favorite in the Voronezh region, because it also symbolizes black soil. Voronezh historians believe that this is a tribute to the black earth that fed the peasant.
The clothes of the inhabitants of the Voronezh province were made of hemp, woolen and nettle fabrics. Hemp was a widespread crop in the black earth zone of Russia. Hemp oil was used for food and was known much earlier than sunflower oil. In a folk costume, the color of clothing was of great importance, the symbolism of color expressed the aesthetic perception of the people
This originality was especially vividly reflected in folk clothes. Women wore shirts embroidered with woolen threads, embroidery adorned the sleeves and the upper part of the shirt, sometimes they were embroidered with gold threads and sequins, and they wore shirts on top. Another feature of the costume of this province were: an overhead collar and long cuffs - offenders, completely covering the arms. Violators were dressed only on especially solemn occasions, they were sewn to the sleeves of a shirt or made removable. Violators were decorated with ribbons, lace, beads
A shirt made of white canvas was embroidered with geometric patterns with black threads. There were about 11 types of shirts - including a shirt with flies, with polics, with a reweave, with a goiter, etc. Shirts were canvas (hemp), later chintz and satin. The favorite colors were white and red.
The canvas was first bleached with ash. Festive shirts were pure white, and everyday shirts were not completely whitened and did not decorate much.
But still the most favorite shirt was a festive shirt with red polished. The ornament on the polic was woven together with the linen, and then decorated with braid and sequins. Shirts differed not only in color, but also in style: the "fool" shirt had short sleeves just below the elbow, because the short sleeves were comfortable and did not interfere with household chores. Flea shirts are long shirts with a stand instead of a petticoat and long sleeves. They were worn day and night
On holidays, a black kundya jacket was worn over the shirt, embroidered with multi-colored braid and sequins. In style, it resembles a jacket. The sleeves of the shirts were decorated with ruffles and bright ruffles, as well as overlays, red stripes along the sleeves.
They decorated the black pony with paws and prose. Prozument is an adornment of a ponyeon in the form of a frame along the bottom, which consisted of braid and multi-colored ribbons. The little paws were woven along the very edge of the poneva with multi-colored threads (red, yellow, black) - shlenka. In contrast to the costume, in the village of Novaya Olshanka, Repyevsky district, petticoats were not worn on a whim, but shirts with a stand were worn instead. She was an important detail, so the mother-in-law could give her daughter-in-law a support for her shirt as a gift for the wedding.
"The rash is pouring down
While the skirt is worn off.
Poneva will get dressed
Will will change ... "- In the village at the holiday they sang such a ditty.
Curtain apron
An example of the ability to decorate clothes can serve as such a seemingly everyday object as an apron, a curtain or a curtain. They were worn by peasant women from all central and southern provinces of Russia: Tula, Ryazan, Oryol, Tambov and Voronezh. He not only protected the clothes, but also covered the unadorned part of the costume, creating a one-piece color ensemble.
The aprons, like the shirts, were different: of different colors, with bright ribbons and braid sewn along the edge, with lace. The colors of the apron were chosen to suit the mood, and the fashion changed every day, just like on shirts: today they put on a blue apron, tomorrow green, the day after tomorrow yellow.
In length, the aprons were higher than the hem of the skirt, but below the knees, they were tied at the waist. The second name of the apron is a curtain, because the aprons were, as it were, “hung up” so that it would not be torn.
Wide belts decorated with beads and sequins served as an important addition to the costume. Blades hung on the sides or behind the belt, and the belts were decorated with trims.
The hem is a women's braided woolen belt. Usually, the women were wrapped around the waist with hem. The edges of the stitching were tucked in on the sides or back. At the place where the trim was "tied", two wide ribbons with blades at the ends descended down. In almost every region of the province, the blades on the edge meant the size of the land allotment of the peasants.
Headdress
Headscarves were worn only by girls before marriage. Due to the fact that in the villages they liked to dress up in different ways every day, there were also different types of scarves: pockmarked, red, white, foreign red with tassels. The colors of the shawls are different, for example, on one the center was black, and the edges of the pot were orange.
At the ends of the scarves were decorated with pancakes. And when such a scarf was tied on the back of the head, two pancakes hung on the shoulder blades and one on the lower back. The pancakes looked like the blades of the edge, only oval in shape.
The women wore magpies with slings. A shlychka (shlychka) is a headdress, a kind of hat, which is a wide band, to which a gathered scarf was sewn, tied at the back of the head with ribbons.
The main color of the shlyk is red; a pattern of braid, sequins, beads, and garus was sewn on it. The shlyk tightly covered the female hair, which was tied at the back of the head in a bun or braided. Hair should not stick out from under the headgear, as this was not customary.
To add beauty to the face, on the temples, under the slick, braids were "tucked in" - bunches of black drake feathers. Sometimes the white feathers were repainted black and twisted at the ends.
Chest jewelry
But a special beauty was given to a woman by breast jewelry: a cascade of beads, on top of which they put on a monist with a necklace. Monisto is a woman's breast decoration in the form of a semicircular mesh made of multi-colored beads, fixed on a necklace - a strip of braid or fabric along the upper edge, fastened on the back of the neck with a button or a hook. Such a variety and diversity of breast ornaments was an amulet that protected a woman from evil tongues and the evil eye. The ornamental pattern of the beaded breastplate - the crosshair - echoes the ornament that adorns the bottom of the apron.
Shoes
From footwear, the villagers liked to wear chuniks - shoes, woven or crocheted from hemp ropes. Leather and wooden planks were attached to the sole so that the shoes did not rub. Instead of stockings, they wore gaiters on their feet, which were knitted from bright threads in various patterns.
Outerwear
Outerwear was made of cloth, fur or velvet. In the spring-autumn period, the most common clothes were "kokhty", "zipuny" and "kutsinki". In many districts, women wore tunic-like shushpans sewn from thick white cloth. In winter, sheepskin coats were worn with fur inside. For insulation, they used swing cloak-like clothes, which were thrown over a sheepskin coat or zipun. Sheepskin clothing was an obligatory attribute of the wedding ceremony. It was believed that animal fur serves as a talisman for the bride and groom. The newlyweds were put on a fur coat with wishes of wealth and happiness.
In the Voronezh province, the so-called linear geometric embroidery prevailed. The most used shape was the rhombus. Often the sides of the rhombus were supplied at the corners with straight lines, which, as it were, continued its sides. The people called this motive "burr" and became a symbol of fertility, fire and life.
3. Folk costume in the tradition of my family.
Horny - the oldest Russian village
Starooskolsky district. In the "Notes of the Imperial Geographical Society" his birth dates back to about the first half of the 17th century.
To learn more about the folk costume with. Horny, I went to see my grandmother on my father's side, Fomina Varvara Ivanovna. There is no better companion than my grandmother. She spent her whole life in the village, a wonderful storyteller, a skilled needlewoman, a great lover of antiquity. Here's what my grandmother said:
“I was still little when my older sister got married. And all the women were dressed like a woman (in a folk costume). Mom walked like that ... Maybe since 1900 we have them. Even the dead were put in the coffin!
The shirts themselves were woven from flax. There were special machines in the well-to-do yards. And they sewed and embroidered - they did everything themselves.
Unmarried girls wore sundresses, and only married women were allowed to dress like a woman. Panev skirts were already woven 200 years ago.
The men wore embroidered shirts and canvas belts. Wore several shirts and collars outward. The more collars, the richer the groom. They wore canvas pants. In autumn, women wore zipuns made of rough cloth.
Those who are richer are in boots, and the poor are in bast shoes.
In winter, sheepskin coats, fur coats. Your great-great-grandfather sewed sheepskin fur coats for rich people. His name was Davyd Vozhzhov. Great-grandfather, your grandfather's father (Fomin Ignat Stefanych) made skins. And your grandfather (Ivan Ignatievich Fomin) weaves baskets. Our whole family is artisan people. Grandfather's sisters weave carpets, downy shawls, sweaters, socks knit, but in such a pattern as no one can. "
My grandmother showed me old shawls, towels, a bright shirt and wicker stools.
Patterns of the Rogovatovsky towel Wealth of Russian originality
A shirt, a festive ponyova and an apron.
On Rogovatovskaya folk clothes, you can most often see the contrast of dark and bright colors.
My grandmother's poneva was not preserved, I had to ask the next heroine of my story.
Fomina Anna Alekseevna has been living for 82 years in her little house on the outskirts of the village. From her poor post-war youth, only a few headscarves and a festive party have survived to this day.
Cloth scarf Handmade scarf
Anna Alekseevna recalls: “The Russian costume was worn even during the war years. Mom herself made poneva, shirts. " She could not resist recollecting that terrible time: “She worked in the rear on beetroot. In our garden, the Germans cooked their own food. Mom was intimidated: they put her against the wall and shot past. And then they asked:
Fearfully?
And my mother said, proudly raising her head:
No!
And there were policemen. They did not touch us, children, and they beat my mother because she hid the slaughtered sheep from them.
I remember when neighboring villages were bombed, such a light stood, like the sun during the day. We hid near the log. The Germans drove us to Shatalovka so that we could clear the roads in winter.
And then our people went to Roshstvo (Christmas) and said that the war was over. We lived richly before the war. And after that we had nothing left.
When my sisters and I were sorting out the chests of our dilapidated house, I unexpectedly stumbled upon my grandmother's pony. So I still have it.
Then she bribed handkerchiefs herself, went to Voronezh for cloth on a cart. All my youth passed like this. "
Having sincerely thanked Anna Alekseevna for the information provided, I went to see Fomina Ekaterina Vasilievna, one of the best needlewomen in the village. She lives in a small temporary hut, with a stove and a bed with a feather bed. After listening to my questions, Ekaterina Vasilievna said:
“We bought the material for the jacket, and weaved ponies from the wave of sheep ourselves. We embroidered and decorated everything ourselves. Not everyone has a suit like that, there is a top, but ponies, skirts, no.
On holidays, they wore a festive ponytail, and everyday ones - every day.
The stockings themselves rolled on the rubles. The coat is wet, with soapy water. First white, then black, so as not to mix and not contaminate the white wool. We made and decorated the chests ourselves.
The costume was strictly worn daily. In the summer it was hot in socks and they still walked around. There were no thin ones. "
After that, Ekaterina Vasilievna gave me socks and an old chest to look at. She herself dressed festively and allowed herself to be photographed.
Down Bed with Valance Handmade Chest
Rubel and wool socks
The last one I visited during my "trip" was Plutakhina Anna Ignatievna. She is my grandfather's sister and lives through the log. Unfortunately, her folk costume has not survived, but she told and showed how the traditional dish was prepared with. Rogovatki - wire rod:
“Katanka is a folk dish. It is rolled in a tray using a special technology. Wheat grain is first steamed in hot water and on a towel - so that it becomes damp. Then the egg, milk and flour are mixed in a tray. So they roll one ball at a time. Then they are dried and lightly fried in a pan. It is cooked as follows. There are three glasses of broth in a glass of wire rod. When the porridge is ready, it is allowed to brew for 20 minutes. If the porridge is on the water, then it was sprinkled with sugar on a plate.
In hunger they cooked "grandfather" (they boiled flour with water - it turned out to be such a porridge), they made crumpets from horse sorrel, and made bread from ripe potatoes. "
So my wonderful journey into the old days has come to an end, which has left many impressions.
III. Conclusion.
Studying the content of the material on the history of women's costume, I came to the conclusion that the Russian costume has a rich history. Its main features over the centuries have remained: rationality, layering, rich colors, contrast. Folk clothing has always retained traditional cut elements, ornaments, and ways of wearing it. By their clothes it was possible to determine the property and marital status of each other. For example, only married people wear them.
In my work, I analyzed two folk costumes: Voronezh and Belgorod. After my research, I found out that they have a lot in common:
- the paneva skirt combines dark colors and is sewn from a rough cut fabric, the bottom is decorated with a tape
- use of aprons
- matching parts of these folk costumes;
- uniform of shirts, etc.
- headscarves
- decoration with beads and embroidery
Although the southern Russian style prevailed in the Voronezh province, as in the Belgorod region, in the Voronezh region it manifested itself in the originality of folk clothing. Women's shirts had a false collar and long cuffs - detachable offenders that completely covered the arms.
There are three colors in the Voronezh folk costume - white, red and black. The most favorite colors in the Belgorod Territory were considered red, green, yellow and black. The main color of Belgorod residents was red., Voronezh residents always sewed from black woolen fabric, along which a red thread ran, dividing the black fabric into cells.
Thus, traditional costumes reflect the culture of the people, their customs and rituals.
Talking with old residents of the village of Rogovatoe about folk costume, crafts, I came to the conclusion that close economic, trade ties and proximity in territorial terms had a mutual influence on the traditions of the inhabitants of the Voronezh Territory and the Belgorod region. These costumes are carefully preserved to this day, passing from generation to generation.
The search for our roots encourages us to study more deeply the traditions of our people.
Bibliography
- Love and know your native land: a textbook on geography, history and culture of the Voronezh region for students of educational schools.
- Sci. Hands. B. Ya. Tabachnikov. Voronezh: Center for Spiritual Revival of the Black Earth Region, 2008.-384 p.
- Russian folk costume. Publishing house "Mosaic-synthesis", M., 2006
- Tolmacheva s. P. Folk costume of the Voronezh province of the late XIX - early XX century. Voronezh: Center for Spiritual Revival of the Black Earth Region, 2007. - 224 p.
- http://www.narodko.ru/Folk costume
Russian folk costume and its traditions are increasingly becoming a source of inspiration for modern designers. Fashion is constantly undergoing drastic changes, turning to the past in search of new and fresh solutions. Shirts, skirts, dresses, sundresses are endowed with features of national dresses that came from the mysterious times of Ancient Russia. What did women, men and children wear in those centuries shrouded in mysteries?
Unique traits
The history of Russian folk costume has been going on for many centuries. Natural conditions, hard field work from dark to dark, religious rituals - all these factors influenced the appearance of national dresses. Peasant clothing was characterized by maximum functionality. Shirts, ports, sundresses provided room for movement, did not cause inconvenience, and effectively saved from the cold. Work suits were devoid of buttons, people girded with sashes and used wide bosoms as spacious pockets.
Constructiveness, practicality and simplicity did not at all force the inhabitants of Ancient Russia to abandon bright colors in their clothes. Ribbons, lace, appliqués in the form of squares and rhombuses, embroidery with colored threads were used as decor. Russian folk costume often involved combining fabrics of different colors. The patterns on the elements of the outfit adjacent to the body took on the function of a talisman that protected from evil spirits. Sleeves, hemlines, collars were decorated with ornaments.
Men's clothing in different regions did not differ much, it was characterized by monotony, while at the sight of a women's suit it was easy to guess in which part of the country its owner lives.
Colors and paints
Dyeing of fabrics in Ancient Russia was carried out using natural dyes. This is precisely the reason for the mysterious popularity of red. Madder in those days grew in almost all gardens, it was this weed that provided the peasants with paint. Therefore, the Russian folk costume evokes associations with red, and not with green. Green silk supplied by the East hardly penetrated into the peasant life, and there were no natural dyes of this color.
In addition to red, white and blue colors were popular, which popular rumor, like red, endowed with protective properties.
Shirts for women
Russian folk costume (female version) cannot be imagined without a shirt. It was worn by representatives of all classes, without exception. The product was called a camp, its length was up to the hem of a sundress. Models of original styles with gathered sleeves were in use. They were popular with nursing mothers. Special outfits for funerals and weddings were created, shirts were divided into festive and everyday ones.
The main materials from which this element of women's clothing was created were wool, flax, hemp. Particularly interesting are decorative ornaments that have a special meaning. The drawings most often depicted birds and horses, the tree of life and plant drawings that paid tribute to the pagan gods. Red shirts traditionally played the role of a talisman. It was believed that they ward off troubles, drive away demons.
Shirts for men
Men's blouses were not particularly diverse. They were a structure assembled from two panels that covered the chest and back. As a connecting element, we used quadrangular fabric cuts located on the shoulders. The cut of the shirt remained unchanged, no matter what class its owner belonged to. It was possible to determine the financial situation only by the qualitative characteristics of the fabric. Satin and silk are for the rich, linen is for the poor.
Shirts were worn outside, they were never tucked into trousers. Such things could be made in different colors. Woolen and silk products served as a belt (sometimes tassels were located at the ends).
Shirts for children
The first Russian folk costume for a boy was his father's blouse, a baby was wrapped in it. For newborn girls, a mother's shirt served as such a diaper. When creating children's outfits, the cuts of the worn things of the mother or father were often used. This was done not out of economy, but for the sake of the belief that the parental power saves the baby from the evil eye.
It is impossible to see the difference in the appearance of shirts designed for children of different genders - these are absolutely identical blouses reaching to the floor. An obligatory decorative element is embroidery made by the mother's hand. Drawings have always taken on the functions of protective amulets.
Reaching the age of three for babies was marked by the receipt of a shirt from novina. Twelve-year-old boys were also given trousers-ports, girls were dressed up in ponevs. In general, the Russian folk costume for children was not much different from the clothes of adults.
Sundresses
When our contemporaries depict Russian folk costume, the women's sundress is most common. Peasant women began to wear this outfit from the 14th century, its final approval in the wardrobe took place only in the 17th century. The appearance of clothes depended on the area of residence, fabrics, colors and cut were different. The most popular option is a wide fabric panel, gathered with graceful folds, shoulder straps, and a narrow bodice. A sundress was worn on a naked body or over a shirt.
There were holiday and everyday options. The former were worn at wedding feasts, church holidays were held there, and folk festivities were attended. The bride's dowry must have included at least ten sundresses, made in different colors. The quality of the fabric depended on belonging to a particular class. Silk and velvet are an option for the rich. Such an outfit, lavishly decorated with lace, braid and embroidery, spoke of the high social status of its owner.
The Russian folk costume - a women's sundress - was also interesting for its weight. The holiday versions were incredibly heavy, and the everyday versions didn't lag far behind. The most common household attire was called "sayan", it looked like a satin product, gathered on the sides and back. Color solutions depended on age. Elderly ladies preferred black and blue models, young girls preferred burgundy and red tones.
The peasant's sundress told literally everything about her. Does she have a husband and children, what kind of mood she is in (there were even special outfits "for the crucifixion").
Caps
It is difficult to imagine a Russian folk costume (male version) without a perky cap. This headpiece, with a visor, reigned in the national wardrobe in the 19th century. Summer versions were made of velvet, velvet, cloth. The visors were covered with fabric or leather, and were executed in an inclined, semicircular, straight form. Options for the holiday were decorated with beads and ribbons, flowers (natural and artificial).
This headdress gained the greatest popularity among retired officials, managers, and village landowners.
Ports
Male ports were made from pieces of homespun cloth or canvas, the connecting piece was a rhombic piece - a fly. Such trousers were gathered on a gashnik at the waist. Russian folk costume for a boy included ports from the age of 12. Color solutions differed in variety, products were made from variegated, homemade dye, homespun. Higher quality fabrics were used to create “weekend” options, or vertical patterns were used to decorate homespun fabrics.
A little later, pants without a fly, endowed with wider trousers, a belt and buttons, became an element of the festive wardrobe. Pockets were often present. The advent of pants gave ports the function of underwear.
Ponevy
Poneva can be called the great-great-grandmother of the modern skirt. This element of the wardrobe is older than the sarafan that appeared later; it was traditionally worn over a shirt, complemented by an apron. The ancient "skirt" was present in the wardrobe of adult women. The Russian folk costume for the girl included her only upon reaching puberty. Most often, poneva was made of wool and consisted of several sewn fabric cuts.
The colors and styles depended on the area of residence. There were deaf models, open on the side or in front, swing, with a stitch. Gradually, they were almost completely replaced by sundresses.
Kokoshniki
From the ancient Slavic language "kokosh" is translated as "rooster and hen". Kokoshniks were made on a solid basis and could take a variety of forms. Their jewelry was very interesting - beads, pearls, beads, brocade. Wealthy ladies wore kokoshniks with precious stones. Kokoshniks cannot be seen while studying Russian folk costume for a girl, because they were considered the exclusive prerogative of married women. Unmarried people wore the great-great-grandmother of today's bandanas - a magpie.
The comb of the kokoshnik indicated that the woman belonged to a certain province. In the Siberian region, crescents became widespread. In Kostroma, Pskov, Vladimirskaya - arrowheads. Kokoshniks were regarded as family heirlooms and were inherited by the daughter from the mother, and were necessarily included in the dowry. They were not seen as part of the everyday wardrobe. These hats were meant for the holidays, even the brides at the wedding wore them.
Kokoshniks are also known as a national amulet. They were decorated with symbols of fidelity and fertility.
Shoes
Russian folk costume - for children and adults - including bast shoes, known as the most common footwear. Bast shoes were festive and everyday, worn at any time of the year with white cloth onuchs and canvas. The role of the attachment was played by ropes wrapping the shin crosswise over the onuch. Leather boots and felt boots were available to wealthy peasants.
The dream of young people and the rich were patent boots with rigid bottle-shaped tops. Soft bootlegs, gathered in an accordion, came already in the 20th century. Women's and men's shoes did not have any special differences.
Modern look
Interest in the history of national costumes and the predominance of ethnic motives are clearly visible in modern fashion. DIY Russian folk costume is created for carnivals and performances. His features are often found in everyday outfits, not only in Russia, but also in other countries.
A striking example of attention to clothing "from the past" is the revived popularity of felt boots. Of course, these products bear little resemblance to their predecessors. Their decorations are leather inserts, bright beads, colorful embroidery. These shoes are also worn abroad. Its popularity is not limited to the borders of the Russian Federation. Boots and shoes decorated with floral embroidery, sandals with a wicker platform won particular love.
Bright fabrics made in the style of a Russian headscarf are also held in high esteem by famous fashion designers trying to reproduce the Russian folk costume. Flowers act as the main patterns, a large element is located in the center, small details are concentrated at the edges. The level of interest in the national lace is high. With its help, fashionable outfits acquire light exoticism, mystery, romance.
World fashion owes to Russian culture the popularity of embroidery with colored threads, the demand for decorative cord, ribbons and beads. National applications are especially widely known, which are used in women's, men's and children's clothing. In winter and autumn, traditional boyars hats, posadskie shawls, vests with fur trim, sheepskin coats in national motives are constantly seen on the streets.
"Russian" weddings
Russian style weddings have been in great demand in recent years. Brides put on white sundresses, decorated with national ornaments, put on red kokoshniks. The outfits are complemented by hairstyles based on a classic braid, into which flowers and ribbons are woven. There is no doubt: wearing a Russian folk costume, you will get excellent photos.
All the peoples of the world have their own. Russian began to form in the 5th century on the basis of elements of the costume of the ancient Russians - the inhabitants of Eastern Europe, the common ancestors of the Slavic peoples. The decoration of the Russians was distinguished by its originality, had its own characteristics and corresponded to the way of life of the people.The traditional costume, widespread over the vast territory of Russia, is quite diverse, especially. Each region had its own characteristic elements in clothing, inherent only in this province. The clothes of the elderly woman differed from the dress of the girl, on weekdays they wore one dress, on holidays they wore completely different clothes.
Peasant clothing
It was possible to distinguish four sets of women's outfit: with a panel, a sundress, an andarak skirt, and a kubelek. Paneva is the most ancient element of women's clothing, a set with a paneva was formed in the 6th-7th centuries and included a shirt, an apron, a bib, a headdress - kichka, bast shoes; it was common in many provinces of central and southern Russia.Shirts, soul warmers, kokoshniks, etc. were worn with sundresses. Women of Altai, the Urals, the Volga region, Siberia, and the north of the European part of Russia dressed up in such clothes. The heyday of this costume fell on the 15th-17th centuries.
The Cossacks of the North Caucasus and the Don wore a kubelek dress, with it they wore a shirt with wide sleeves and long trousers. The clothes of men throughout the territory of Russia were monotonous and consisted of a shirt-blouse, narrow trousers, bast shoes or leather shoes, and a hat.
Noble costume
The peculiarity of the national Russian dress is the abundance of outerwear, cap and swing. The clothes of the nobility are of the Byzantine type. In the 17th century, elements borrowed from the Polish toilet appeared in it. To preserve the originality of the costume, by the tsar's decree of August 1675, nobles, solicitors, stewards were prohibited from wearing foreign clothes.The costume of the nobility was made of expensive fabrics, richly decorated with gold embroidery, pearls, buttons of gold and silver. At that time there was no concept - fashion, the style had not changed for centuries, the rich dress was inherited from generation to generation.
Until the end of the 17th century, national clothes were worn by all classes: boyars, princes, artisans, merchants, peasants. Tsar-reformer Peter I brought the fashion for European costume to Russia and banned the wearing of national vestments for all classes, except for peasants and monks. The peasants remained faithful to the national decoration until the end of the 19th century.
Now you won't find a person dressed in a national costume on the street, but some of the elements inherent in the Russian traditional costume have migrated into modern fashion.
