Any haircut on straight and fine hair needs careful and skillful styling, for which there is not always time. There is a solution in both cases - perm or chemical hair straightening. The only question is how wise it is to chemically straighten or curl your hair in summer, during the vacation season, when sea water and the sun are stressful factors for your hair, and how your hair will look and feel after a perm.
Common sense dictates that any intervention in the hair structure a priori cannot be curative. We subject hair to chemical treatment for aesthetic purposes, and you need to understand that perming hair will entail both time and material costs - the hair will need increased care.
At the same time, installation may well become faster and easier. Let's see what is a perm and chemical hair straightening.
CHEMICAL HAIR CURL
In order for the hair to curl, it is first treated with a chemical compound that breaks down disulfide bonds. Breaking these bonds causes the hair to take on a new shape, depending on the type of curler. Then a fixing compound is applied to fix the disulfide bonds in a new position. This is the essence of any perm. But the formulations used may be different, there are different types of perm for hair. Every now and then, new methods appear, with the help of which a perm of hair is carried out, they promise to reduce the harmful effect on the hair, but the previous formulations also do not give up their positions.
Types of compositions for perming hair
Alkaline hair curling. It gives a cool curl that can hold its shape for six months. Alkaline perm is not recommended for those with fine hair and sensitive scalp. Alkaline perm is suitable only for those lucky ones with thick and healthy hair. During the treatment of the hair, the drug gets deep inside, the alkaline perm opens the scales and breaks the smoothness of the hair.
Acid perm is more gentle, but less durable, its duration is a maximum of 3 months, and if the hair is coarse and heavy, then even less. But it is much softer than alkaline hair curling, since the hair scales remain closed.
There is also an acid perm using thioglycolic acid. This acid perm is even less long-lasting than an alkaline perm, but is suitable for colored hair. True, the painting should be done at least two weeks in advance. In any case, it should be noted that acid perm is one of the most popular procedures today.
All types of perm for hair, which do not include ammonia, hydrogen peroxide and thioglycolic acid, are called biowaves. Also, these types of perm are called neutral.
The most popular among them are Italian MOSSA, "Silk Wave" with silk proteins and "Japanese chemistry" with a lipid-protein complex.
An additional plus that characterizes these types of perm is that there will be no clear demarcation line between regrown and treated hair. This is due to the fact that hair gradually straightens after a perm.
These types of perm can be used on weakened and colored hair.
The master will always help you to choose the optimal "chemistry". Even on the shortest hair, you can make root "chemistry" by choosing the right hair perm, which will create the necessary volume and facilitate styling. To avoid an allergic reaction, you should first do a test - apply a small amount of the solution to the skin behind the ear and wait a quarter of an hour. If there is no irritation, the drug is suitable.
As you can see, there are different types of hair perm. The end result that certain types of perm are aimed at depends solely on the professionalism of the master. An experienced specialist has a large arsenal of compositions and methods of perm for hair. To get the desired type of curl, you can use various variations: wind your hair on papillots, hairpins, bobbins, braid them.
For semi-long hair, a technology called "Twin" is sometimes used: half of the hair is twisted horizontally and half vertically. The traditional hair curlers are replaced by wellaformers - latex bags in which the hair is placed. Then the bags are compressed, and the hair inside takes on the desired shape. This option is suitable for semi-long and long hair.
It is widely believed that hair dyed with natural dyes - henna and basma - should not be permed, because the hair scales are tightly sealed and the composition will not be able to penetrate inside. In fact, it all depends only on the qualifications of the hairdresser - a good specialist will select the composition so that the hair curls. True, after coloring, at least one and a half to two months should pass.
Permed hair
After you have applied perm for hair, you can not wash your hair for three days. Then you need to use special hair shampoos after a perm and regularly make masks with keratin and panthenol. This is especially true when traveling to warm regions - sea salt and pool water, combined with the hot sun, will add additional stress to chemically treated hair. It is better to hide hair after a perm from the sun's rays. It is also recommended to use protective sprays, then the perm will last for a long time.
Permed hair requires special care. It is imperative to rinse your hair after the sea and the pool. Brushing wet hair is not recommended - it draws out curls, and the hair is torn. The combs should have wide and sparse teeth. Perms for hair make it easier to style afterwards. After the "chemistry" hair can be dried naturally, and curls will look natural.
Many hairdressers claim that gentle hair perms do not break hair structure, and this allows you to do "chemistry" regularly. Of course it is not. Hair in the process of perm loses some of its weight, becomes lighter and more porous. Each successive perm is less beautiful than the previous one.
Chemicals destroy keratin, after which a new substance is formed - meta-carotene, which already reacts differently to the curling solution. Therefore, it is impossible to influence the hair constantly, there will come a time when they not only lose their proper appearance, but also cease to be permed.
The cost of perming hair
The price range for perm is very wide. On average, it costs from 1,500 to 6,000 rubles for short hair.
CHEMICAL HAIR STRAIGHTENING
The principle of action of a chemical solution when straightening hair is the same as when curling - the drug destroys the disulfide (sulfur) bonds of the hair in order to give it a new shape. Natural curls and perm results are also straightened.
Types of formulations for chemical hair straightening
The composition may contain various agents for chemical hair straightening: sodium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide or ammonium thioglycate. Means for chemical hair straightening help to open the cuticle, soften the hair and change its structure. Sodium hydroxide is the most aggressive substance because it is alkaline. The action of preparations based on it is very effective, the hair becomes straight and smooth. But now they are used infrequently, tk. their impact can be safely called destructive.
Guanidine Hydroxide is a milder, non-alkaline chemical hair straightener. Ammonium thioglicate works even softer, chemical hair straightening with its use is not suitable for very curly hair. Solutions always contain caring components - wheat proteins, panthenol, vitamins, a pH control system and essential oils. There are many options, individual manufacturers offer up to ten types, designed for different types of hair. Not only the natural qualities of the hair are important, but also their condition at the moment. In some salons, before the procedure, the master measures the thickness of the hair with a micrometer and then selects a product for chemical hair straightening. The prices of chemical hair straightening also depend on the choice of the drug.
Despite the fact that manufacturers and hairdressers claim that chemical hair straightening is safe, in fact, the formulations are very aggressive, otherwise they would not be able to straighten curls. In some cases, a base, for example, petroleum jelly, is pre-applied to the scalp to avoid burns. A hairdresser doing chemical hair straightening should examine the scalp for wounds or damage. If the straightener gets on a damaged area, it can not only cause severe allergies, but also block further hair growth in that area. And on recently bleached hair, straightening should not be done at all, because a secondary chemical effect on hair keratin can affect them in the most destructive way. It is important to understand that even the mildest and most expensive solution dries the hair, so after the procedure you need to pay constant attention to moisturizing it.
After chemical hair straightening
Do not trust ad copy promising permanent hair straightening. In fact, the effect lasts for several months, maximum six months. Correction is carried out only on regrown roots once every one to three months. Curly hair is flat in section, while straight hair is round. Chemical substances, penetrating deep into the hair, fill it from the inside to the required shape. Therefore, they become not only straight and heavy, but visually they seem to be more.
At the same time, in humid climates, it happens that straightened hair nevertheless begins to frizz, because it is very difficult to cope with genetically inherent factors. Although we must admit that in the summer, straightening hair can make life very easier for those who are tired of naughty curls that cannot be shaped due to the constant exposure to moisture.
But the hair must be healthy, the hairdresser must assess their condition. Having decided on straightening, you need to carefully choose a salon and a master, inquire about his experience and the content of the compositions with which he works. If a hairdresser is ready to start straightening without examining your hair and scalp, it's best to go to another professional.
A week after the procedure, you should not use elastic bands and hairpins, you will also have to wait with staining. The hairdresser, after assessing the condition of the hair, will tell you when it will be possible to dye it. You don't need to comb your wet hair, and the use of a hairdryer should be kept to a minimum. You will have to use restorative masks and oils regularly.
Cost of chemical hair straightening
The price of chemical hair straightening varies greatly. Hair straightening is an expensive pleasure, and prices fluctuate even more than for a perm - from 3000 to 15000 thousand for short hair. Correction costs the same. Thus, the price of chemical hair straightening can exceed the amount of 30,000 rubles.
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Perky curls, flowing curls or a light wave - all these are the results that can be obtained with the help.
The modern market offers many options for compositions for the procedure. In order not to get lost in this variety and to make the best choice, it is necessary to study in detail and compare the features of the most popular means.
What to choose
- Perming products without ammonia
The modern hairdressing market offers a fairly wide range of products for absolutely harmless, ammonia-free hair curling. Choosing a non-traumatic version of the permanent, you need to focus on the condition of the hair. Neutral formulations are good for thin, thin strands, and alkaline ones for long, porous strands.
They are the most relevant method for obtaining bouncy curls, enriched with proteins, amino acids and other useful components and are suitable for all hair types, also helping to restore the structure of each hair.
- Perm preparations with fruit acids
Preparations for curling hair, created on the basis of fruit acids, can be classified as medicinal. Among them are "Hydrowave" (France), "Formula of Success" USA, "Trioform Save" (France).
These formulations do not have the slightest aggressive effect, while optimally protecting the scalp and the hair itself. They do not have an unpleasant smell and provide firmness, elasticity and silkiness to the curls.
More recently, the term perm has been invariably associated with damaged, dry hair. But modern manufacturers are constantly improving cosmetic products and perms today - these are well-groomed curls, in the process of creating which they place a stake not only on beauty, but also on safety.
What do you choose?
Ammonia-free productOn fruit acids
Ollin (Olin)
- Russian trade mark Olin produces a special gel for perm, Ollin Curl Hair Perm Gel, the active ingredients of which, primarily keratin, contribute to the elastic curling of curls.
- The gel, in addition to its main function, gives the strands volume and forms an invisible film on the hair that protects them from the negative effects of external factors. To impart the ability to provide a softening, moisturizing and nourishing effect, the gel is mixed with Fluid mix Ollin Curl Hair. The curls obtained as a result of the performed procedure are fixed with a special lotion from Ollin. Considering the gentle effect on the hair and the ability to maintain the effect for up to six months, the Ollin curl can be classified as a biowave.
- Gentle formula does not contain ammonia.
- The cost of the 500 ml Ollin curling gel varies within 350-400 rub., for a similar volume, 250-270 rub., and fixing lotion about 200 rubles
Wella (Vella)
- Get luxurious curls without harm to your hair will help made in Germany curl products from Wella.
- The manufacturer offers two lines of products related to the category of delicate permanent curls. The Wella Wave It series adds volume by creating flowing large waves. Those who want bouncy curls should opt for the Wella Curl It series. Curls become moisturized, previously damaged areas are intensively restored.
- There is no ammonia in the composition of these lines., that is, the hair does not receive the slightest negative effect, on the contrary, the formulas developed by Wella specialists allow you to receive an excellent care effect in parallel with the curling.
- Perming kits can be purchased at a price of 1400 - 1600 rubles.
Goldwell (Goldwell)
Chemical biowave from a Japanese manufacturer acts as gently as possible on the hair and does not contain ammonia... The Evolution complex of products forms curls based on a neutral ph technology and, thanks to the lipid-moisturizing complex included in the composition, restores the curls from the inside, giving them shine and strength.
Based on the natural structure and the current state, an appropriate system is selected:
- System "0" - suitable for the formation of curls on coarse natural hair;
- System "1" - optimal for normal and fine hair;
- System "1 Soft" - is used if the hair is slightly damaged or has been previously exposed. The total number of streaked strands should not exceed 30%;
- System "2" for porous or colored hair with chemical dyes, as well as for owners of hair highlighted by 30-60%.
Kapous
Curling series from the Italian manufacturer is called Kapous Helix and includes special lotions and a neutralizer.
The products are available in a volume of 500 ml.
Lotions differ in packaging, and also have a different smell and appropriate labeling:
- 0 - for natural hair that is difficult to form;
- 1 - for normal natural;
- 2 - for colored and previously curled hair.
Ammonia in Kapous products has been replaced by ammonium nateoglycollate... This component allows not only to fix curls, but also to provide them with elasticity and softness.
This type of perm can be classified as "bio", since in addition to the main action, the active components have a regenerating effect.
The curling procedure with Kapous materials can be carried out both independently and with the help of a wizard in the salon. The cost of consumables for the home procedure will be about 600 rubles, the master's service will cost about 3,000 rubles.
Paul Mitchell (Paul Mitchell)
Paul Mitchell is an American brand successful in the curling and lamination market for 40 years.
With the help of biowave of this brand, you can easily achieve elastic curls of various diameters or light beach waviness.
Paul Mitchell manufactures three types of biowave formulations:
- For thick and gray hair - alkaline type;
- For normal, dry and colored - exothermic;
- For lightened and thin - acidic.
Means does not contain hydrogen peroxide and ammonia, acts delicately without damaging the hair.
Composition from Paul Mitchell for home use is available for purchase for about 2500 rubles, in the salon the cost of the service starts from 3500 rubles.
Important! Curls can be dyed no earlier than three weeks after the procedure.
Chi
Permanent biowave Chi Ionic Shine Waves from the American manufacturer Farouk Systems does not contain aggressive components such as ammonia or thioglycolic acid, but enriched with natural silk proteins. The complex can be used for both healthy and weakened strands.
Chi has a healing effect on brittle, dry and damaged hair.
You can use the product both in the salon and at home. It does not exude a characteristic chemical odor.
Home use kit including curl shaping compound, fixative, neutralizer and conditioner, will cost about 3000 rubles.
Prices for the services of a master start at 5,000 rubles.
Schwarzkopf professional
A series of products called Natural Styling from Schwarzkopf belongs to the category of biowaving and does not contain harsh chemicals that can damage the hair structure.
Moreover, the aloe vera extract contained in the products helps to add elasticity to the curls during the procedure.
The Natural Styling line is represented by the following products:
- Gel. Provides root wave and maintains volume. It is used to maintain the roots that have grown back after the previous curling. Contains amino acids and a moisturizing complex;
- Lotion. Easy-to-apply biphasic formula forms flowing curls while caring for them;
- Fluid. Designed to produce short term effects that will not last longer than 6 weeks;
- Lotions Classic. Presented in several options, depending on the type of hair. The result lasts up to 12 weeks on the hair;
- Neutralizer. Suitable for any type of composition from Schwarzkopf;
- Spray recovery. Aimed at protecting hair during the procedure.
All brand products are manufactured in Russia.
The cost of a salon procedure based on funds from Schwarzkopf will be about 7,000 rubles, the price at home is made up of the cost of individual funds:
- Gel for root volume - 350 rubles;
- Lotions - about 600 rubles;
- Fluid 650 rubles;
- Spray - 500 rubles;
- Neutralizer - 700 rubles.
Important! When using a curling complex at home, you should strictly follow the instructions. Even small deviations in dosage and technology can lead to negative consequences for hair.
Estel Niagara
Bio-permanent of Russian production, does not contain ammonia and ammonium thioglycollate... The formula of the product is based on Cysteamine, due to which it has a gentle effect. The result is natural, well-groomed, uniform curls.
The procedure with Estelle's funds can be carried out in the salon, in this case, its cost will be 2000-2500 rubles, or at home, having spent 500-650 rubles on the purchase.
Z one
Bio-curling from the Italian manufacturer Concept guarantees excellent curl formation and long-term preservation. Formulated with botanical extracts, structural amino acids and protein-based PBBS. Biowave Z one does not contain ammonia or its derivatives.
Service cost:
- For natural hair - 2100 rubles;
- For colored hair - 2200 rubles;
- For bleached hair ("Angel's Curls") - 2300 rubles.
Matrix
The American bio-permanent Matrix implies a complex effect on the hair of products developed on the basis of herbal ingredients. The composition from Matrix does not contain any aggressive substances... Moreover, after the procedure, the curls feel the effect of a special moisturizing complex that repeats the biological hair membrane.
The Matrix line offers three curl products:
- In a blue package - for sensitive hair, holding time - 10 minutes;
- Orange version - for hard-to-curl and normal hair, holding time 15 minutes;
- Pink - for colored and normal hair. The holding time is also 15 minutes.
The fixator-neutralizer is the same for all products. Its exposure time is 5-7 minutes.
In the salon, the cost of the procedure will depend on the length of the hair:
- RUB 6,000 - short;
- RUB 7,000 - middle length;
- RUB 8,000 - long hair.
For home use, a curling lotion will cost about 750 rubles, a fixative - 800 rubles.
Londa (Londa)
Ammonia-free curling lotion hair from London, based on thioglycolic acid, belongs to the category of biowave, as it has a gentle effect and contains keratin, which is a protein organically perceived by the hair structure.
The composition is also enriched with collgen, panthenol, proteins and phyto extracts.
Country of origin: Russia.
Salon gentle procedure for short hair it will cost about 3000 rubles, for long hair - 6000 rubles.
For self-forming curls, you will need to buy a lotion - 1,500 rubles and a retainer - 900 rubles.
Shot
Shot "Wawe of Perm" - a chemical bio-permanent based on wheat proteins and keratin, ammonia free, without harm to hair, makes the dream of well-groomed wavy hair come true.
The line can be purchased at the following price:
- Curling compound - 1200 rubles;
- Modulator for the chemical composition - 1150 rubles;
- Clamp for the chemical composition - 870 rubles.
Prices are indicated for a volume of 500 ml.
Country of origin: Italy
Eugene perma
Ammonia-free chemical biowave with natural ingredients, vitamins and minerals, allowing you to get elastic curls of any shape and diameter.
The line of products of the French brand includes the following items:
- Lotion, which results in flowing curls - No. 0 - for natural and difficult to reshape hair, No. 3 - for hair that is sensitive to the effects;
- Composition - No. 0 - for coarse and natural hair, No. 1 - for natural hair, No. 2 - for sensitive hair, No. 3 - for damaged hair;
- Neutralizer.
The cost of the lotion is 600 rubles, the composition for curling is 1200 rubles, the neutralizer is 1100 rubles.
Brelil professional
The Perms line from Brelil professional is designed for perming various types of hair. Due to the absence of ammonia and the content of caring components, vitamins and proteins, it is suitable for damaged and colored hair and belongs to the biochemical type.
The line includes the following products:
- Balancing shampoo to create soft curls - 1250 rubles;
- Action 1 gel - for normal hair - 1900 rubles;
- Action 2 gel - for colored hair - 1900 rubles;
- Controller - 650 rubles;
- Lotion for natural hair - 1100 rubles;
- Lotion for curling colored hair - 1100 rubles;
- Lotion for difficult hair - 1100 rubles.
Country of origin of funds: Italy.
Magic curl
Means "Magic curl" from the Russian manufacturer Galant-Cosmetic, enriched with natural keratin, can be classified as biowave. It contains no ammonia, but there is a medical complex that forms a protective film on each hair during the procedure.
The composition is intended for home use, the cost does not exceed 300 rubles.
In order to make a high-quality perm, first of all, you need to understand what effect the hair is exposed to during this procedure. If we look at a section of straight hair, we will see that it has the shape of a circle, and curly hair has the shape of an oval. What follows from this?
To curl straight hair, you need to change the shape of its section while simultaneously twisting it along the axis. When hair is wrapped in curlers or bobbins, it bends and changes its shape. In this case, the internal bonds of keratin (the structural protein of the hair) are displaced, but not torn, and the curling is preserved until the next hair wash.
Front perm the keratin scales of the surface layer of the hair are tightly closed. But under the influence of the chemical composition, the bonds inside the hair disintegrate, the protein fibers are damaged, the scales open, and at this moment the hair, when twisted on bobbins of different configurations, can be given any shape. The break of molecular bonds, ideally, should be up to 30%, then the hair will become stringy and viscous.
The next step is to stabilize (fix) the new hair shape. For this, a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide is used. At this moment, the swelling of the hair stops, and they begin to return to their natural state: the old bonds are restored inside the hair, the keratin acquires its initial strength and elasticity, the scales close. This stage should be given great importance: if the fixation is done incorrectly, then the curl will turn out to be fragile. During perm hair is physically and chemically affected at the same time. When twisted on a bobbin, the hair is pulled, in addition, each layer of hair presses on the underlying one.
Thus, two forces act on the hair - tension and pressure. As the temperature rises during curling, the hair's ability to resist changing shape decreases, therefore, during the curling process, a warming cap is used, which retains the natural heat of the human body.
Each subsequent perm will look less beautiful than the previous one, as the chemicals destroy the hair keratin, which is why a new substance is formed in the hair - meta-keratin, which already reacts differently to the perm solution. There may come a time when your hair just stops frizzing and you have to wait a while for it to grow back.
Hair curling tools.
If you decide to do perm at home, then you will need a sufficient amount of bobbins various shapes and diameters - from 50 to 80 pieces. They do not have metal parts, they are attached with rubber bands. Also for perm at home you can use plastic curlers, which are also fixed with an elastic band or a clip. Peignoir(a special cover made of waterproof fabric) will help you keep your clothes tidy and protective gloves save hands and nails from aggressive solution. Among other things, you will need:
- plastic comb-ponytail,
- curling compound and fixative,
- insulating cap,
- a bowl and a sponge for the retainer,
- preparation for neutralization and stabilization,
- biological fixer.
Please note that preparations of the same company / brand should be used during curling. All of this you can buy in a specialized store.
Perm formulations
Almost all perm lotions are created on the basis of thioorganic compounds and their derivatives - they make it possible to influence the shape of the hair and change it even at normal body temperature. A very important characteristic of the drug is its pH. The higher it is, the more active the effect of the drug on the hair and the greater the likelihood of complete destruction of bonds and dissolution of hair keratin. What curling compounds are used today?
Alkaline permanent (from lat. permaneo - stay, continue) is used for curling healthy and natural hair. The disadvantage of an alkaline permanent is that it emits harmful hydrogen sulfide vapors, which can cause various side effects in a person - headache, malaise, dermatitis (skin inflammation).
Acid-balanced permanent used for naturally weak, tired, highly colored hair. This composition does not contain strong alkalis and is less harmful. Its main component is glyceryl monothioglycolate. This composition begins to act only after it is mixed with the activator (it is included in the kit, both liquids must be mixed just before use, since the finished mixture cannot be stored), while a chemical reaction occurs with a large release of heat, and the composition warms up to 40 degrees C. The peculiarity of the acid composition is that due to the small swelling of the hair, the hairstyle is less afraid of moisture and the influence of the weather, it looks more natural. The disadvantage is that the drug is less persistent, the perm does not last very long.
Mild Alkaline Permanent - a gentle solution, when applied, the hair also receives a protein treatment course, due to which the structure of the hair is improved, and the curling is more durable. Odorless. Disadvantage - often causes allergies.
Gel Permanent - used for curling the roots of short hair, for example, curling the temporal zones in men's short haircuts. To do this, use a comb, not bobbins.
Foamy permanent - the most harmless preparation for curling hair. It is so soft that as a result, the hair gains volume with little or no frizz. As mentioned above, a large value at perm allotted retainers which have oxidizing properties. Such preparations necessarily contain hydrogen peroxide, but not more than 3%. The clamps perform the final operation in the hair curling procedure, stabilize the formed curl, and return the internal structure of the hair to its previous state. Retainers can be of the following type and consistency:
- concentrated fixatives(they are diluted with water in a one-to-one ratio, their packaging has the inscription "1 + 1"),
- non-concentrated fixative(ready to eat),
- foam solution(it is foamed with a sponge and applied to the hair, while it is necessary to remember that in this case it is the foam that "works"),
- non-foamy solution(it is applied from the spout of the bottle separately to each bobbin).
Perm stages
Ideally, "chemistry" is best done in a hairdressing salon with an experienced master, but if you want to perm yourself, then strictly follow the instructions. First of all, you need to carefully examine the scalp and find out if there are any inflammations, scratches or abrasions on the scalp. If there is, then with perm wait until the skin heals. Perm should be performed in the following sequence:
- Wash hair with shampoo, squeeze out moisture and dry with a towel.
- Determine how the chemical is applied to the hair.
- Wind your hair on bobbins.
- Saturate hair with chemical composition.
- Put on an insulating cap (option: cover your head with polyethylene, wrap it in a towel).
- Record the start time of exposure by the clock.
- Check the quality of the curl.
- Wash off the preparation, without removing the bobbins, with running warm water for 5-7 minutes.
- Apply the fixative for the first time for 5-8 minutes.
- Remove the bobbins.
- Apply the fixative a second time for 5 minutes.
- Wash off the retainer with running water, squeeze out the water.
- Rinse hair with acidic composition to neutralize fixer.
- Dry your hair with a towel.
- Apply a medicinal product to restore the hair structure.
When performing these procedures, there are several important points that you should definitely pay attention to and in no case neglect them.
Determination of the condition of hair and scalp before curling
As mentioned above, if there is any damage to the skin on the head, perm better to transfer. It is also necessary to check if you have an allergic reaction to the drugs. It manifests itself most quickly on the thin, delicate skin behind the auricle. To check, you need to apply the composition with a cotton swab to the skin and after 10-15 minutes it will be clear whether there is an allergy or not (redness, rash, itching may appear).
You should be especially careful with blonded (bleached) hair. If after immersion in curling lotion they do not burst, but lose their original appearance, the composition must be diluted with water in a one-to-one ratio.
Choosing a curling compound
It is very important to assess the condition of the hair and make the right choice of the appropriate drug, since the degree of effect of various drugs differs from each other. First of all, you need to determine hair structure .
Recall that hair can be soft, medium, hard.
How to determine this?
If your hair is soft and thin to the touch, it means you have soft hair, if it is coarse and thick, it means hard, and if neither, then you have normal hair. Then it is determined hair quality - thin, thick or normal. As a rule, hair structure and hair quality are closely related. If you have soft hair, then it is fine. Such hair is most often found in blondes, and in brunettes, hair is likely to be thick and thick. It is also very important type of previous hair treatment - dyed, discolored, with residues of permanent, untreated. The fact is that the way of the previous hair treatment increases their porosity, it can also increase under the influence of sunlight, salt water, hot air. In these cases, it is necessary to select the optimal chemical composition and remedy, and in case of severe damage to the hair structure, it is better to carry out preliminary treatment. There are several rules for permanent hair damage:
- when curling the roots that have grown after a permanent, one should try not to apply the composition to previously curled hair;
- with highly bleached hair and with a large percentage of highlighted (partially colored) strands, hair protection preparations must be used, which even out the structure of colored and split hair and ensure uniformity perm... Keep in mind that every company that produces formulations for perm, offers, as a rule, several types of drugs:
- for healthy, previously not exposed to chemical treatment, difficult hair,
- for normal hair,
- for porous hair previously exposed to oxidizing agents,
- for blonded and highlighted hair.
Having chosen the composition, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the instructions for use, since differences can be not only in drugs from different companies, but also in the next generation of the composition of the same company.
Hair wash
There is a rule: perm. performed only on clean hair! Therefore, be sure to wash them before curling, regardless of the last time you did it. This will slightly expose the flakes, which will accelerate the penetration of the curler into the hair. The hair is washed once, and the scalp does not need to be massaged in order to retain the fat layer on it, which will protect it from excessive exposure to acids and alkalis. After blotting your hair with a towel, comb it, but you should not use a hair brush either before or after washing, so as not to damage the cuticle (the top layer of the hair).
Curling hair on bobbins
Depending on the type of hair, bobbins are chosen. If the hair is stiff and elastic, then it is wrapped in thin strands on large bobbins. Medium-elastic hair is best rolled with medium-sized curlers. Thin hair is wound on small bobbins, separating very thin strands. In this case, the strands must be separated with zigzag partings so that clear parting lines do not form, and the bobbins must be staggered. It must be borne in mind that the thickness and width of the strand must correspond to the thickness and length of the bobbin. The process of winding strands of hair on a bobbin is as follows: the strands are separated from each other with a comb-tail, combed, pulled perpendicular to the head and wound on the bobbins. Make sure that the ends of the strands are carefully wound and do not puff up, do not stand out from the general mass. The direction of curling the hair depends on:
- from the direction of hair growth (if this is not taken into account, then the hair can be broken at the root),
- from the future hairstyle (it is better to place the bobbins in the direction in which the hair will lie in the future),
- from a haircut, which can be emphasized using curlers of different diameters.
The angle of the brace of the strand can be different: the higher the strand is shifted relative to its base, the more magnificent it will be later. If volume at the roots is not required, then the bobbin is placed as low as possible to the base of the strand. The securing elastic should not be tight, pressed into the hair or close to the roots, so that there are no kinks that can lead to hair breakage. The elastic can be at the top of the curler or crosswise. You can also use hairpins - wood or plastic - to secure your hair.
Hair curling techniques
Direct method. The hair is first moistened with the composition, and then wrapped: first from the lower part of the back of the head, since this is the coldest zone and the healthiest hair grows there. To curl evenly, the hair must be curled very quickly. They are pre-moistened in the composition, then, after winding, they are impregnated with it two more times. Indirect method. Wet hair is twisted on curlers, and then moistened with a perming solution, and as it dries, it is moistened with a spray bottle. Wrapping is done in any sequence. This method is most preferable, as damp hair absorbs the solution faster and retains its original structure better. Mixed method. It is used for hair longer than 20 cm. Before winding it up, only the ends of the hair should be moistened, 2/3 back from the roots. Thus, the bobbins are wound all over the head, and then all the hair is wetted. By the way the bobbins are located on the head, the curling is divided into horizontal and vertical. At horizontal way the hair is wound on a bobbin located horizontally in relation to the base of the strand, from the end of the strand to its base. The disadvantage of this method is that a high-quality curl is obtained only at the first revolutions of the bobbin, then it weakens due to an increase in the diameter of the bobbin with each revolution. At vertical way the hair is wound in the reverse order - from the hair roots to their ends - and the bobbin is placed vertically on the head. The main advantage of this curl is that the curl is uniform over the entire length of the strand. But at the same time, the hair does not come into contact with the head and there is not always enough internal warmth for the curling process. Another note: if the hair has been repeatedly curled and the ends of the hair are completely lifeless, then you can wrap the ends of the hair in paper. In this case, the ends will not suffer as much.
Applying the curling compound
When all the hair is wrapped around the bobbins, the composition is applied to each bobbin from above and below with a brush. This should be done quickly and evenly. You cannot apply a very large amount of the composition at once, since the upper layers of the hair, having absorbed too much moisture, will swell and will not let the composition into the lower layers, which will remain uncurled, in addition, the composition may begin to drain, which is not always pleasant. The first time you need to apply the composition very sparsely. The second time, you can apply a little more. And the third time it is applied until the liquid ceases to be absorbed. In this case, you cannot save the composition or the fixative, since the hair must be soaked very well. Before applying the composition, the scalp along the hairline should be lubricated with a protective cream, and a napkin rolled up with a tourniquet should be tied around the head. After impregnating the hair with the composition, the tourniquet is removed. After the hair is evenly moistened, a warming cap is very carefully put on the head, trying not to move the bobbins. To preserve heat, the cap must be tightly fastened, otherwise the curling process will be lengthened.
Holding time
The exposure time is always individual, on average, from 10 to 30 minutes, as it depends on the structure of the hair and the desire to have a curl of one or another elasticity. To determine it, it is necessary to unwind the strands in different parts of the head during the curling process. (It is important not to forget to twist the strands back!) The sign of a good curl is a bouncy and damp curl. After rinsing and fixing, the degree of curling of the hair will increase a little more, and if the exposure time is too short, the curl will not have time to form completely and will be short-lived; if the curling composition is used for too long, the hair can be severely damaged.
Rinsing
Without removing the bobbins, you must rinse your hair very thoroughly under the shower. The rinsing time depends on the length of the hair. So hair up to 10 cm long is washed for at least 1 minute, 10-20 cm - 2 minutes or more, and hair longer than 20 cm must be washed for at least 3 minutes.
Fixation
Outcome perm depends on the correct fixation, which restores the damaged hair structure. If the fixation is performed superficially, the molecular bonds of the hair will remain partially split and the hair will be inelastic. After thoroughly rinsing the hair and blotting it with a towel, apply the fixative.
The holding time is determined according to the following table:
After applying the retainer and the required exposure time, the bobbins are carefully removed, trying not to delay the curl. Then the fixative is applied again. After re-fixing, the hair is thoroughly washed and treated with a preparation to neutralize and stabilize.
At the final stage, a biological fixer is applied, which instantly strengthens the keratin of the hair, makes the hair elastic, and affects the duration of its preservation. perm and the elasticity of the curls. After thoroughly rinsing the hair after fixing, you need to blot it with a towel and evenly apply the preparation on them. After 3 minutes, the hair is thoroughly rinsed again. Afterwards, you can use a conditioner balm that will restore the natural pH of the hair and scalp and make combing easier.
Hair care after perm
For the keratin of the hair to strengthen, at least 48 hours must pass. Therefore, it is advisable not to dry your hair during this time, not to style it with a hairdryer, not to wind it on curlers. For hair care with perm there are rules:
- It is necessary to wash your hair only with special shampoos, also use special hair balms with perm.
- If the hair is very dry, intensive treatment should be carried out, which will restore the hair structure: you can use medicinal products, masks for weakened hair. The course of treatment is at least 10 sessions.
- After every 3-4 shampoos, it is advisable to use medicinal preparations, and for long hair, a preparation for the ends of the hair is needed, because they will become drier after curling.
- To keep the "chemistry" as long as possible, you must not pull the hair out in a wet state, twist it with a towel. You can comb them only with a rare comb, and immediately shape them with your hands. Do not go to bed with a wet head.
- It is necessary to protect hair from exposure to direct sunlight, salt and cold water, and in the summer to protect them with special preparations with ultraviolet protection.
- Laying is done in a more gentle way. It is important not to dry your hair or injure it with fleece. For styling, use a nourishing foam balm.
And after all these manipulations, you can finally enjoy the result. The efforts of a home hairdresser will not be wasted: with perm morning styling is facilitated, because the hair has become more pliable and soft, it keeps its shape better and makes it possible to try many different hairstyles.
To carry out a chemical wave, you must have the following tools, materials and accessories:
- plastic comb-ponytail;
- insulating hat;
- plastic bowl;
- an applicator (bottle with a "spout") for applying the solution;
- a sponge or another applicator for applying fixer;
- rubber gloves;
- plastic bobbins of various diameters;
- hair balm;
- two towels;
- oily cream;
- measuring cup;
- plastic clips.
Tools should not have metal parts.
There are two common methods of perm:
- direct way; the composition is applied to clean, dry hair and only after that they are wound on bobbins. It is used, as a rule, only on long hair;
- indirect way: Clean, damp hair is first rolled up and then the solution is applied to it. The most common in recent years, since modern preparations are well absorbed by the hair. Convenient in that the exposure time on all hair is the same.
Sometimes, with long enough hair, a combined method can be used: a strand of 1/2 or 2/3 of the length is impregnated with the composition, at the end of the wrapping, the drug is applied to the bobbin.
When winding the strands around the zones, it must be remembered that the surface of the scalp has different temperatures. For example, the temperature of the occipital zones is lower than the temperature of the skin in the parietal zone.
When using the first method, first wind up the hair of the occipital zones, then the temporal and lateral and only after that the parietal zone. When wrapped in the second way, the sequence of the strands does not matter.
A hairdresser performing a cold permanent must observe the following precautions:
- Before the procedure, a bioassay should be performed, for which the drug is applied with a cotton swab to the skin behind the ear or on the bend of the elbow. If after 15 - 20 minutes the skin does not turn red, then the perm can be performed;
- protect the scalp, leaving a natural protective layer or creating (after washing) an artificial one, for example, by soaking with fat;
- the preparations should remain on the hair for as short a time as possible, and after a quick rinsing, the hair should be immediately impregnated with a fixative, trying to prevent the liquid from flowing down the neck or face;
- you can use protective dressings, which must be removed immediately after soaking the hair.
It is very dangerous for the liquid to get into the eyes, which in this case must be rinsed with plain warm water; if the eye turns red, the help of an ophthalmologist is needed.
The hairdresser should carefully protect the skin of the hands from the effects of chemicals by using protective gloves sprinkled with talcum powder inside to make them easier to take off and put on. If you work without gloves, the epidermis can die on the pads of the fingers, which become constantly wet and very sensitive.
Before performing a perm, it is necessary to examine the scalp. In case of damage to the integrity of the skin, wounds, etc., the client must be warned about this. Perhaps further work should be abandoned for a while. Diagnose hair and, depending on this, choose the method of wrapping and the diameter of the bobbins, having previously agreed with the client the shape and elasticity of the curl. When curling previously colored or bleached hair, you can test the strength of the hair. To do this, the drug is applied to a thin strand and after 10-15 minutes the hair is tried to break. If the hair "spreads" or breaks easily, then the concentration of the composition is too high. In this case, you need to either abandon the perm at all, or dilute the drug with water in a 1: 1 ratio and repeat the test. You should also tactfully explain to the client in which case the perms will negatively affect her health. It:
- headache;
- high or low blood pressure;
- critical days, pregnancy or lactation;
- hunger;
- taking any medications;
- stress.
Wash hair with a mild, neutral shampoo without rubbing it into the scalp. If your hair has a lot of styling products, then you can use shampoo for deep cleaning. You should not apply balm, as it will cover the scales and complicate the chemical process.
If the hair length is too long for the subsequent hairstyle, then a preliminary haircut can be performed. It should be remembered that after curling, the length of the strand can be reduced by 1.5 - 2 cm.
Wind your hair on bobbins using the first or second method of perm.
Rules for winding hair on bobbins:
- the width of the strand is equal to the width of the working surface of the bobbin;
- the thickness of the strand, as a rule, is equal to the diameter of the bobbin;
- the pull of the strand is carried out "away from oneself", while the maximum lifting of the root is ensured. Sometimes volume is not needed, for example with a wide face. Then the brace of the strand can be performed differently on the parietal and lateral zones;
- the strand is wound on the bobbin evenly, with good tension. The hair should sit on the bobbin like threads on a spool. However, you should not overtighten the strand, as this can cause a headache for the client;
- wrapping is performed on hair moistened with the drug or water, which allows you to perform high-quality strand tension. The quality of the curl further depends on this;
- the elastic should not overtighten the root of the strand. This can lead to hair breakage. It is advisable to use plastic skewers to secure the bobbin;
- when winding up previously colored, porous or damaged hair, it is recommended to moisturize them with a protective spray;
- it should be remembered that the edge of the hairline on the neck is the coldest zone. Therefore, it is possible to use bobbins with a smaller diameter;
- for better scrolling of the ends of the strand, you can use special paper.
It should be noted that the choice of the diameter of the bobbins is influenced by the future styling. If the client prefers to use a hairdryer for this, then the curling should not be steep and shallow - it is difficult to straighten and stretch such hair with a hairdryer. If the client prefers curlers, then the curl can be quite elastic. If the curl is done as an independent styling (for example, for long hair), then the curl should be elastic and correct. Explain to a client with long hair that the curl pulls back under its own weight, so you should not blow-dry your hair or use a diffuser attachment to form curls. When drying your hair naturally, you can lift it slightly and squeeze it from time to time, forming a curl with your hands. So that the hair does not frizz, but lies in beautiful curls, you need to apply mousse or gel to the wet strands, comb it with a comb with large teeth. Do not use a fine-toothed comb - the hair will loosen up again.
Chemical application... Lubricate the skin at the edge of the hairline with a greasy cream. This will protect it from irritation when it comes into contact with the chemical composition. Tie a tourniquet from a napkin or towel around the head so that the composition does not get on the skin of the face.
Apply the chemical composition. The composition is applied from the applicator quickly and evenly. Movement of the applicator from right to left and vice versa. You cannot apply a large amount of the drug at once, since the hair will not have time to swell and the composition will simply flow. In this case, the lower layers will remain untreated. Thus, the solution is applied alternately to each bobbin over the entire surface of the head. Repeat several times depending on the length and thickness of the hair. Put on an insulating cap or a plastic scarf. Do not apply additional heat. You can use klimazon. At the same time, the holding time is almost halved.
The approximate amount of the perm preparation depending on the hair length is given below.
Modern drugs do not need curl testing. They work reliably and quickly. But curl can be checked to reassure the client. To do this, unwind one bobbin at a time in different zones and, holding the curl on the bobbin with your thumbs, slightly spring the strand. If the strand forms a wave, then the curl is ready. You cannot untwist the strand to the end, because the newly twisted curl may not coincide with the already formed one. It should be noted that when fixing the curl will become more elastic.
To make the curl large, you cannot shorten the holding time; you need to wind it on bobbins of a larger diameter. Accordingly, in order for the curl to be small, you should wind the hair into small bobbins, and not increase the holding time.
Remember that when working with modern drugs, you can not increase the exposure time beyond what is prescribed according to the instructions. This will only lead to the disbandment of the curl and the loosening of the hair. If the curling does not work out and the client is not satisfied with a weak and sluggish curl, it is better to redo the chemistry immediately or after 1 - 2 weeks, using a soft composition and possibly a smaller diameter of bobbins.
The exposure time of the drug to the hair is given in table. 7.1.
Table 7.1
At the end of the exposure time, the chemical composition is washed off with warm running water, without unwinding the bobbins. If the curling was carried out with the help of climazone, then it is necessary for the hair to cool down. The rinsing time depends on the length of the hair. The thicker the strand on the bobbin, the longer it takes to wash off the preparation. This is very important, in the future the fixation process depends on how well the hair is rinsed. The recommended cuddling time is shown below.
Then dry the hair well with a towel and apply fixer. Modern manufacturing firms produce ready-made concentrated fixer, which must be diluted 1: 1 with water. The solution can be foamed and applied to each bobbin using a sponge or applicator. The fixer should be enough, otherwise not all broken sulfur bonds will be restored, and the hair, having lost its elasticity, will become! '' Inelastic and lethargic. The fixing drug is left for a while, then the bobbins are unwound, starting from the lower occipital zone. Further, if the hair is over 10 cm long, the fixer can be reapplied. Rinse thoroughly with warm running water. The exposure time of the fixer is given in table. 7.2.
Table 7.2
And finally, you can start the final curling operation - neutralization. A special preparation is applied to the hair dried with a towel, which finally removes the residual amount of hydrogen peroxide and thioglycolic acid from the depth of the hair. At the same time, keratin hardens rather quickly, which makes the hair elastic and shiny. The preparation is kept on the hair for 3 - 5 minutes. All this time, it is advisable to rub it into the hair with gentle movements, then rinse with water. Some modern firms use a stabilizing mousse. It is applied to the hair after rinsing and is not washed off.
It is advisable to trim the ends of the hair after curling.
Errors when performing a perm.
Hair strands have weak curls:
- used a chemical composition with an expired shelf life;
- the hair was divided into large strands and wrapped too tightly on bobbins, so the composition did not soak well the ends of the hair;
- insufficient amount of composition;
- poor tension of the strands when winding;
- insufficient concentration of the drug;
- bobbins too large for the hair type.
Scalp irritation:
- too much formulation has been used and unabsorbed formulation is poured onto the scalp.
Hair breakage:
- the holding time of the composition has been exceeded;
- the rules for applying fixer are violated;
- the hair was taut when twisted and tight elastic bands pulled the roots.
Hair color change:
- a fixer with a concentration of more than 3% and a holding time of more than 8 minutes was used;
- the hair is not rinsed enough before the neutralization operation;
- used metal dishes, tools that have reacted with the composition.
Hair care after perm... Any type of curling will inevitably lead to weakening of the hair and a predisposition to damage it. Therefore, you should be very careful with curled hair, especially in the first weeks after curling.
When the bobbins are removed, it is very important not to start combing your hair right away, since the curls will finally grab only when the hair is completely dry. Do not worry if the curls are tighter than you would like. The curling will weaken a little in the first week.
After shampooing, you should use either healing balms with keratin, protein or rinses. It is also advisable to use shampoo for dry and brittle hair or for hair with a perm. Hair masks should be done after every third or fourth shampooing.
Newer perm products contain light nutrients such as moisturizing panthenol and hair-promoting keratin, collagens and silk proteins. They also add elasticity to the curls. An effective firming agent - hot oil. This new generation product strengthens hair without leaving traces of grease. Its secret lies in a new combination of keratin and protein hydrolyser ingredients plus thermal action. Closed bottles with oil liquid must be heated for 2 minutes in hot water, then opened and applied to damp hair. Thanks to the heat, the ingredients are evenly distributed over the scalp and work better on the hair. Let the oil soak in a little and then wash off with shampoo. Hair then becomes healthier and more elastic.
Add volume to your hair with elegant waves or playful curls! On our website you can buy a set for a perm at home or products for use in the salon. Innovative products from Europe at the current price!
Types of perm: choosing the right products
For those wishing to get stable curls, salons offer perm hair in different styles (American, root, spiral, vertical chemistry, etc.). During this procedure, professional preparations are used that destroy the disulfide bonds inside the rod, after which the curls take a predetermined shape for a long time, which depends on the type of curler. For a stable effect, the strands are treated with fixing agents that help the disulfide bonds "remember" the new position.
Depending on the degree of influence on the structure, perm hair is divided into three categories:
- Permanent wave- a classic type of chemistry that helps in creating small curls, which is recommended for owners of rare and oily strands of any length, because gives volume and dries hair. Curls last for many months, after about six months, the curl is renewed (as the roots grow back). Modern formulations for this procedure do not damage the structure as much as their predecessors, but they are still unsafe. Such chemistry is contraindicated for pregnant and lactating women, as well as women with overdried and damaged strands.
- Carving- a large perm, which gives the curls a natural waviness and root volume (if done on medium hair). In this case, sparing preparations are used that do not dry out the strands. Such long-term styling lasts 1-2 months, then the hairstyle returns to its original form.
- Bio-curling- the most favorable for the hair structure, it is applied on long and short hair. This gentle perm formula contains keratin, cysteine, proteins and other caring ingredients to guarantee a gentle styling. Suitable for curling large curls and elastic curls that retain their shape for up to two months.
Care after chemistry, or how to extend the life of curls
In order not to injure the strands after chemistry and maintain the clear outlines of curls, follow the following care recommendations:
- Repair hair with a professional moisturizer.
- After shampooing, do not stretch or twist the curls with a towel, dry them before going to bed.
- Use a rare comb to brush through curls.
- Protect your curls from UV rays with sunscreen.
- Do not dry your curls with a hairdryer, do not comb, so as not to injure.
- Pay special attention to the ends: use drugs that prevent splitting.
- For the aesthetic look of curls, use.
The online store "Hair Market" offers to purchase a large selection of perm products from various professional manufacturers. If the order amount is more than 3000 rubles, we will deliver the goods within Moscow free of charge. For other cities of the Russian Federation, products are sent by mail or by a courier company.
bonus program
Registered buyers are credited with 4% of the check amount to the bonus account in their "personal account". Bonus rubles are accrued on all products (except for special offers), they can be used to pay for up to 50% of the next purchase.
