Light and delicate emulsion suitable for all skin types. It evens out the complexion, gives the skin a natural shine and removes small dark spots and irregularities. And also additionally tones the skin, moisturizes and nourishes it.
If you have never been fond of hand-made, we recommend taking up this hobby today, as it is not only exciting, but also beneficial for your health and beauty. You can easily familiarize yourself with the recipe for an anti-aging emulsion and prepare it yourself at home.
To prepare a whitening emulsion, we need these ingredients.
Fat phase
Water phase
- Hydrolat Neroli - 45 gr.
- D-panthenol - 1 g
- Cationic guar gum - 0.1 gr.
Active phase
- Essential oil lemon - 3 drops.
- Lactic acid 80% - 2 drops.
- Parsley leaf essential oil - 4 drops.
- Subcritical CO2 extract of Licorice - 1 gr.
Method for preparing a whitening emulsion
For cooking, we need a clean container for mixing all the ingredients, as well as a kitchen scale so that they can be accurately measured.
Fat phase
Let's start the preparation of the emulsion with the fatty phase. To do this, we measure out Beeswax in a container - 0.5 grams and emulsifier Sorbitan Monostearate (SPAN - 60) - 1.8 grams. We send the container with the added ingredients to a water bath until it is completely melted. Once the wax and emulsifier have melted, you can start adding the following ingredients.
Without removing the container from the water bath, put the Mango Butter - 5 grams.
Water phase
In order to properly prepare the aqueous phase, the first step is to dissolve cationic guar gum - 0.1 grams in D-panthenol - 1 gram.
Once the gum is dissolved in D-panthenol, add Neroli Hydrolate - 45 grams. The container with the aqueous phase, as well as the fat phase, is sent to a water bath and heated to 75 ° C.
Our both phases have warmed up to the right temperature and now you can start mixing them. To mix both phases, gently gradually pour the aqueous phase into the fatty phase. After that, the entire resulting mixture must be thoroughly mixed with a mixer.
Active phase
First of all, add lemon essential oil - 3 drops and parsley essential oil - 4 drops to the container with our prepared mixture.
The final component will be an extract of subcritical CO2 Licorice - 1 gram.
We have finished adding all the ingredients and our whey is almost ready. It remains only to mix it thoroughly and transfer it to a cosmetic container convenient for use. Use a serum before bed.
Always yours,
Victoria Prutkovskikh.
Any cream, balm, mask, conditioner consists of LIQUIDS AND FAT. The main difference between these products is the proportion of fat and liquid. For example for cooking masks or creams take up to 30% fat and 70% water... Content fat in ointments or fatty winter creams reaches 70%... For cooking balm or conditioner depending on the type of hair they take from 1 to 10% fat. But since fat does not mix with liquid, then we need EMULSIFIER... One of the most important ingredients in the cream is ASSETS- vitamins and other useful supplements that directly nourish your skin and hair. Well, and the last, also an important component, are ESSENTIAL OILS, which not only give a pleasant smell, but also actively affect the skin and hair.
You can read more about each block of constituents in other articles of this section:
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As a liquid, juices, decoctions, hydrolates or distilled water are used. Very important for emulsification is water phase quality, which should be distilled or soft drinking, since hard water makes emulsification difficult and can contribute to the separation of components after stopping stirring.
As fat: oils are used depending on the desired effect, which you can read about in the article about.
There are two types of emulsifiers depending on the desired fat content of the cream.
1) DIRECT (oil in water)- little oil and a lot of water. The water part reaches 80%. This cream, balm, mask, conditioner turns out to be light and well absorbed without leaving oily sheen but direct emulsifiers are capable of attracting water and can lead to skin dehydration over time, so they are best avoided for dry, mature and thinned skin.
2)REVERSE (water in oil)- little water and a lot of oil. The oily part of such a cream reaches 60-70% of the volume. Reverse emulsifier protects and nourishes the skin. Such a cream, mask is very greasy, it is absorbed for a long time. Emulsifiers in such cases are wax, lanolin (consists of fat removed from sheep wool during washing, carbonic lime and potassium chloride), lecithin (an ester of phosphoric acid and alcohols, soy lecithin is common - a mixture of natural phospholipids and soybean oil).
Smell in the cream remains from oils and esters. The smell of hydrolates disappears or a thin-thin trace remains! Sesame oil smells especially strong!
Face cream at home
To PREPARE CREAM, we need
1. One glass container for the aqueous phase, but it is not for storing the finished cream and the fat phase will be poured here
2. Glass container for the fat phase (including solid oils together with liquid, they will warm up perfectly together)
3. Glass container for assets (because plastic is not recommended, and especially for essential oils)
4. Jar for the finished cream
5. Pupsik spray with vodka or alcohol (for disinfecting cream jars and dishes, spoons that are involved in the process)
7. Mixer or small fork for whipping.
8. Fatty phase, aqueous phase, emulsifiers, assets, esters.
9. Water thermometer.
10. Balance, cut off syringe for measuring liquid.
You can use a tried and tested or, or come up with a recipe based on the advice given in this article and information on the properties of oils, assets and other ingredients by clicking on the links above.
What is LF and WF
Fat phase(lf) - base and flower oils and, if available in the recipe, vitamin E.
Water phase(vf) - consists of water or hydrolate, or a decoction, water-soluble active substances, such as allantoin.
Also, to lower the ph level, you can introduce into the aqueous phase malic acid(increases skin elasticity), lactic acid, citric(stimulates collagen production), total weight up to 0.5%
How does an emulsifier work?
Some sources write that the emulsifier is dissolved in a dispersion medium (then what is more) and after complete dissolution and bringing both phases to the same temperature, the fat is mixed with a liquid, and if a direct oil-in-water emulsion is prepared, the oil is gradually poured into the water with an emulsifier and vice versa to obtain a water-in-oil emulsion, water is introduced into the oil with an emulsifier. In fact, where to dissolve the emulsifier and what to pour into what does not really matter, because obtaining a homogeneous oil-in-water or water-in-oil mixture depends on the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the emulsifier.
To obtain a direct emulsion (oil in water), a hydrophilic emulsifier (HLB from 8 to 15) is needed, and a reverse emulsifier (HLB from 3 to 8). Here is an example of an emulsifier formula: The formula has a "tail" that can be hydrophobic or hydrophilic. If there are more hydrophobic (oil) tails, then less opportunity hold more water and vice versa if there are more hydrophilic (water - OH) tails, the greater the ability to hold a lot of water, this is how an emulsion will turn out oil-in-water.
That is, when choosing an emulsifier, one should be guided by the properties of the desired cream, its fat content (water in oil or oil in water) and the properties of the emulsifier. In the description of the emulsifier, the percentage of input is usually written and the temperature at which it dissolves (usually 50-70 degrees) and for which emulsions it is intended.
Active ingredients in the cream
Active substances elastin, plant active substances (for example, aloe-vera, meristem extract), flower extracts, and D-panthenol (a synthetic analogue of vitamin B5.) Normalizes skin metabolism, regenerates cells, penetrates into the hair, enveloping it with an elastic film gives flexibility and hair elasticity and shine), silicones added to an almost finished cream after it has been cooled to hand temperature... The same goes for essential oils. If the assets are water-soluble, you need to pour out a small part of the WF, dissolve the assets in it and add them to a slightly cooled cream, then they will mix well with the cream.
An example of calculating the water and fatty phases.
On the EXAMPLE CREAM oil (30%) - in water (70%) with a volume of 50 ml.
Fatty phase (LF) = 50 * 70% = 15 ml.
1. Select emulsifier for the cream oil in water .. The percentage of emulsifier input is usually written on the package. Take 3% for example.
50 * 3% = 1.5 ml.
2. The actives (vitamins and other additives), although added at the end of the preparation, belong to the fatty phase. Let's take 0.8 ml. assets.
3. Essential oils - take 0.2 ml.
4. So, from 15 ml. 15-2.5 = 12.5 ml left. - so many base oils we take for the preparation of the cream.
Water phase (WF) = 50 * 70% = 35 ml.
1. Count water-soluble gelling agents, thickeners, if any. Let's take guar 1% - 50 * 1% = 0.5 ml.
2. The rest of the liquid is 35-0.5 = 34.5 ml.
If we add preservatives, then they also need to be taken into account in one of the phases. On the packaging, the percentage of input is written and in which phase to dissolve. We recommend using preservatives natural:
Propolis - the dry substance of propolis should be poured with a small amount of oil and heated to 60 degrees in a water bath. After the propolis dissolves in the oil, you can add it to a cream or mask. The proportion of propolis in the finished product should not exceed 5%.
- grapefruit seed extract - 0.1-1% of the total weight of the cream
- beeswax - is both a preservative and an emulsifier, up to 5% in the cream
- malavit - 15 drops per 50 ml of cream
- extract of walnut leaves.
Walnut extract can be an excellent preservative both due to its own properties and due to the fact that alcohol is also present in the composition, which is also a preservative. The leaves and shells of walnuts contain juglone, an antibiotic with high bactericidal activity. Even in the smallest concentrations, juglone inhibits the vital activity of bacteria, including microorganisms. The extract is used in creams and lotions for the skin of the face, shampoos and hair care products, preparations before and after shaving, as well as in tanning products.
It is necessary to accurately observe the ratio in the recipe of the components and the amount of emulsifier... Just do not confuse grams with milliliters, because the density of substances is different, and 1 gr. does not correspond to 1 ml.
How to make a cream
Measure the ingredients
you can use a medical syringe or at the rate of 1 ml - this is an average of 20 drops. You can also use a spoon in measurements:
1 table l. - 20ml
1 dessert l. - 15ml
1 tsp - 5ml
1 coffee l. - 2.5ml
1ml = 20 drops, 1 drop = 0.05ml.
In a 5 ml measuring spoon (1 standard teaspoon):
glyceryl monostearate (full spoon) 2.9 g;
wheat emulsifier - 3.2 g;
emulsifier Planta-M - 3.4 g
zinc oxide -3 g.
The smallest spoon (1/4 teaspoon) from the set contains:
Guar 0.7 g (regular and cosmetic)
Chitosan 0.2 g
Marine DNA 0.4 g
Oat silk 0.6 gr
Vitamin C 0.7 g
Potassium sorbate (no slide) - 0.4 g
Salicylic acid 0.5 g
All spoons without a slide!
Caffeine in 1.25 ml (smallest spoon) - 0.9 g.
Cetyl alcohol in 1.25 ml 0.7 g
Sucrose stearate in 1.25 ml 0.9 gr.
Stearic acid in 1.25 ml 0.6 gr.
Titanium dioxide in 1.25 ml 0.4 g
Hyaluronic acid in 1.25 ml 0.3 g
Finally, the creation of the cream
1. We heat the fat phase and the aqueous phase in a bath in separate containers. 
2. Guar, xanthan or other gelling agents are dissolved in the aqueous phase to create a gel-like emulsion.
3. In the fat phase we dissolve the emulsifier, in the description of which the percentage of input is usually written and the temperature at which it dissolves (usually 50-70 degrees). If wax is the emulsifier, then it is better to melt it separately, and then pour it into the oil, because it melts at temperatures above 70 degrees, and oils at this temperature can lose their properties.
4. After complete dissolution of the emulsifier and bringing both phases to the same temperature, mix the fat with the liquid. 
When mixing the phases, it is imperative to stir in one direction. You can stir with a spoon or mixer, then the cream will cook faster.
5. When the cream acquires the consistency of sour cream, while continuing to stir, the cream must be cooled by placing it in a container with cold water. The emulsion will become more stable. 
6. When the emulsion has cooled to 35-40 degrees, add assets and ethers to it. Mix again, cool.
7. Determine with indicator strips (normal about 4). 
If PH is greater than 5, add citric acid solution, lactic acid or lemon juice dropwise to the desired acidity level.
The cream is ready! Keep refrigerated
Problems that may arise:
1. Adding xanthan caused stickiness. This happens in the case of an overdose of xanthan.
2. Guar in case of overdose can turn into lumps.
3. Water exfoliates if the water-fat-emulsifier ratio has not been maintained, or if it is not mixed well, or if the cream has been sharply cooled. Better not to put it in the refrigerator right away. Try stirring again, if it doesn't help, revise the recipe and make a new one.
4. The cream turns out exactly like shaving foam ... Airy, fluffy, light with bubbles consistency .. When you beat, trap a lot of air. Try lowering the mixer deeper to mix the cream in depth. Reduce rpm and whipping time
5. When I melt LF together with emulsion wax, first it melts, and then some white flakes form on top - and they float directly on top, there is no way to get rid of them. - the LF is brought almost to a boil, the temperature must be tried by touching the wrist with a fork, with which I stir the phases. It should be nicely warm, but not until it burns.
6. The cream was obtained in grains, like semolina - the wax was not melted. Water must be poured into the bath to the level of liquids in the cups.
1. It is not necessary to use a mixer, you can beat it with a small dessert fork. Moreover, the creams are completely different depending on the proportion of liquid and solid oils and the emulsifier used.
2. When you make creams with red extracts, the color of the cream is somehow faded and not pink or white, but when you drop a few drops of lactic acid, the color immediately refreshes, just so lively and becomes concrete - either white or pink ...
3. Lactic acid, as an acid, is incompatible with xanthan, destroys its structure, so it is better not to use this combination.
4. Alcohol extracts are best added to the finished cream while adding all the assets to prevent the cream from becoming liquid.
Option 1: add the extract to the aqueous phase and then combine with oily = liquid cream
Option 2: make a cream from the water (only hydrolat) and fatty phases, beat it i.e. bring to the desired density and whiteness, and then the extract is added to the already cold cream, so the cream will not liquefy.
5. For oily and oily skin, it is better not to use solid oils in creams. You can only use Mango oil, and even then in winter creams and a little. The grape seed is positioned for oily skin, hazelnut oil. So, for oily skin - no butters; and in general, the oil phase needs less; it is better to add guar / xanthan to the aqueous phase; in MF, together with emulsifiers (to reduce fat content), add cetyl alcohol to face creams, and stearic acid to body creams (handles and legs).
6. Shea Butter, if you work with it in a cold way, it is also an emulsifier. The principle is this - you need to grind it, without heating, with a spatula until creamy, then beat with a whisk. Beat for a long time, otherwise the cream may exfoliate. When will it work soft texture, slightly add liquid oils and water, aloe gel. Beat well, add vitamins, esters. If the skin is oily, then add corn or rice starch (up to 5%).
The proportions should be as follows
2 parts shea
1 part liquid oil
1 part water
7. Aloe gel is easier and better to make yourself. Real aloe gel is very expensive, but low quality is full and may well cause an allergic reaction. The highest quality gel is definitely the most prepared, you certainly know what is natural. It is very beneficial for the skin and is often used in recipes. Cut aloe seasoned in the refrigerator into pieces, pass through a meat grinder, and then through a sieve. Pure juice remains. We put it in the refrigerator for a day. Then we filter through a sieve again, add vodka (25% of the juice) and then guar by eye until thickened.
The simplest cream formula:
(1/3 oils + 2/3 water) in a total volume of 120 ml, 1 tsp. emulsifying wax, 1/3 tsp xanthan.
The result is a wonderful cream with a delicate and pleasant texture, close to industrial creams. The cream is well absorbed and stable.
Preparation of an emulsion for a cosmetic cream. How to make an emulsion for a cream. How to make an emulsion with your own hands. Direct and reverse emulsions. School of Cremovar. How to make an emulsion. Emulsion for cream.
As you know, oil does not dissolve in water. If you add a few drops to the water, you will find that they float in the water.
How to combine these two components to get a homogeneous mass - emulsion.
Let's consider the basic concepts (let's play a chemist).
1.Emulsifier.
Emulsifier - it is an essential ingredient for making homemade cream. Therefore, we will deal with him.
Thanks to emulsifiers, the emulsion remains stable, that is, it does not delaminate, it remains homogeneous. Emulsifiers are usually organic compounds. These are mainly soluble substances with the property of lowering the surface tension at the interface of both phases (water and oil) of the emulsion. In appearance, they are waxy in the form of plates, shavings, peas.
How the emulsifier works.
The emulsifier has an elongated molecule. At one end it is hydrophilic, that is, it attracts water to itself, and the other end is lipophilic - it attracts oil. The emulsifier acts as a bond between these two incompatible substances and does not allow them to delaminate. In this case, after emulsification, one phase, for example, oil in the form of small droplets is distributed in the second phase - water and vice versa.
The following are used as emulsifiers in cosmetics:
- various surfactants (surfactants). Lipids, fatty alcohols (mainly for detergents).
- natural emulsifiers of plant and animal origin. Mono - and di-glycerides of stearic acid, lauric acid, oleic, stearic acid, etc.
Emulsifiers are classified into two types:
- Hydrophilic - soluble in water
- Lipophilic - soluble in oil.
2. Emulsion.
Emulsion consists of two or more liquid phases. We will only consider a two-phase emulsion. The phase is oily and the phase is hydrophilic (aqueous).
Emulsification- this is the process of formation of a stable (stabilized) emulsion that can persist over time without breaking down.
How emulsions are made.
Emulsions are usually prepared by vigorously beating the fatty and aqueous phase. To create the desired type of emulsion, it is necessary to thoroughly dissolve the emulsifier before mixing the phases, either in water or in oil, depending on the type of emulsifier. This often requires heating both phases. Sometimes room temperature is sufficient. The description for the emulsifier indicates the required heating temperature (usually 50-70C) and recommendations for use. After complete dissolution of the hydrophilic emulsifier in water or lipophilic in oil, the phases are mixed. In order for the emulsification process to take place successfully, the temperature of both phases must be the same. It is also important to gradually introduce the internal phase, which makes it possible to achieve its even and complete distribution. Examples of emulsions in nature: milk, milky sap of plants, blood.
Types of emulsions.
All emulsions are divided into two main types:
Direct emulsions- oil in water, the dispersion phase (what dissolves in) which is water.
Inverse emulsions- water in oil, where the dispersed phase, respectively, is oil.
Note!You can read more about dispersions and other types of emulsions on chemical forums, but most likely, this information will not be useful to you in home-made cream.
What factors determine the type of emulsion obtained as a result.
- on the order of mixing of phases,
- from the nature and method of introduction of the emulsifier,
- from the technique of emulsification.
What can affect the properties of the emulsifier:
- impurities in water and oil (chlorinated or too hard water) (-),
- electrolytes and acids ( lemon acid, salt) (-),
- the presence of co-emulsifiers and thickeners (for example, guar) (+),
- temperature of the mixed phases lack of temperature or overheating,
- the ratio of the mixed phases (not verified proportion of the oil and water phases),
- pH of the mixed phases,
- whipping intensity
- emulsification time.
Direct oil-water emulsions:
What is a direct emulsion can be illustrated by the example of milk. Drops of fat float in milk, where the main medium is water. If you try to dilute the milk with butter, then the butter will float on the surface, and if with water, then the water will dissolve and become homogeneous with the total mass.
IN Direct emulsions the smallest droplets of oil are distributed in an aqueous medium and stabilized by a layer of emulsifier or surfactant(surfactants) so that the polar part of the emulsifier molecules is directed to the aqueous phase, and the non-polar part to the oil, inside the droplet. Developed interfacial layers are formed around each oil particle, which protect oil droplets from merging with each other, and the entire emulsion from delamination. In other words, such an emulsion will be stable. They have a cooling effect due to their high content of free water. They spread easily, are quickly absorbed and usually do not leave behind a greasy sheen. For single long-term use, in particular for dry skin, direct emulsions are unsuitable, since, due to the rapid evaporation of water, they continue to stimulate transepidermal water loss and thereby increase the drying out of the skin, therefore it is advisable to use them alternately with water-oil systems.
They have a light texture.
- Easy to apply and quickly absorbed into the skin.
- Leaves no oily sheen.
- They do not form films, although sometimes it would not hurt.
- They have a cooling effect.
- The oil quickly penetrates into the inner layers.
- They are a conductor for biologically active substances into the skin.
Disadvantages of Direct Emulsions
- They have almost no barrier functions.
- Easily washed off with water.
- Emulsifiers for direct emulsions help to wash out the skin peptides, which leads to the destruction of the skin barrier.
- It seems to be moisturizing, but the result is dehydration and dryness of the skin. You have to introduce additional moisturizers, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, etc.
Inverseemulsions "Water—
butter".
In reverse emulsions, the smallest water droplets are distributed in an oil medium and stabilized by a layer of an emulsifier or surfactant (or both), so that the polar part of the emulsifier molecules is converted to the aqueous phase, and the non-polar part to the oil phase. Interfacial layers around each water droplet prevent them from sticking together and protect the emulsion from delamination. Due to their lipophilic external phase, water-oil systems, even with a high water content, are superfatty systems, which are indicated predominantly in dry skin. When applied to the skin, the dispersed water is released. A thin fatty film is absorbed into the upper layers of the dermis, which prevents moisture evaporation from the surface and draws it into the stratum corneum.
oil in water
Based on materials from books:
“Fundamentals of Cosmetic Chemistry” edited by T.V. Puchkova
“Cosmetic creams and emulsions. Composition, methods of preparation and testing "G. Kutz
Advantages of inverse emulsions
- They are considered more physiological.
- They blend well with the skin.
- They are a good conductor for water-soluble substances.
- Do not wash off with water.
- They have excellent barrier properties, especially against weathering.
- Retain moisture, provide moisture penetration into the epidermis. Possesses effective moisturizing properties.
Disadvantages of inverse emulsions
- Difficult to spread over the skin.
- Creates a greasy, sticky and heavy feeling on the skin.
- Leaves a greasy shine.
- Promotes pore enlargement and acne formation.
- Not suitable for oily skin.
The inverse emulsion is formed directly by adding water to the oil solution of the emulsifier. These conditions are met only with the introduction of small amounts of water, literally drop by drop. That is, the aqueous phase is gradually introduced into the oily phase, in small portions, drop by drop. The added water should not accumulate on the surface, but should go "inward" into the oil, with constant stirring.
Otherwise, phase reversal may occur and a direct emulsion will result, which in addition may be unstable.
Important note: Reverse emulsion is obtained only if there is special emulsifier, and not because of a change in the sequence of adding components! It is believed that making an inverse emulsion at home is much more difficult. These emulsions are created using special emulsifiers and equipment.
Ratio percentages:
- The percentage of the oil phase is 60-80%, (where 60% is more optimal)
- Emulsifier percentage 5-10% of the aqueous phase
- The aqueous phase is 20-30%. The higher the percentage of water, the more viscous and less stable your emulsion will be.
To stabilize inverse emulsions can be applied (~ 1%) >>> and
- Saline (aqueous sodium chloride solution).
- within the concentration range of 3-15%.
- (for heavy creams).
- Carnauba wax.
- Sebaceous tree oil.
- Gums (added to the aqueous phase).
- Emulsifiers for inverse emulsions.
- Lanolin.
Emulsifiers for inverse emulsions:
- sorbitan stearate / span-60
- Sorbitan Olivate HLB = 4.7.
- Montanov 68
- Nikkomuls WO NS
- Hostacerin
A few tips for a homemade emulsion type test.
- direct emulsion mixes easily with water, reverse - with oil.
- if the cream is dripped onto paraffin and the drop spreads, then the emulsion is reversed, if not, then it is direct.
- the direct emulsion is easily washed off with water, the reverse emulsion leaves a greasy film on the skin.
- if the cream is soluble in water, then it is a direct emulsion, if in oil, it is an inverse emulsion.
If you want to make your own skin creams, this article is for you. In it, you will learn how to select the ingredients and how to combine them correctly to create a homogeneous emulsion.
The content of the article:
Every woman who takes care of herself uses a face cream. Proceeding from the fact that not all products are able to cope with this or that skin defect or such products are not cheap, the owners of the fair sex think about making cosmetics with their own hands. Moreover, this process can easily turn into a hobby.
Walking through the vastness of the World Wide Web, you can get on blogs and people's comments about supposedly "miracle healing" remedies made from sour cream, honey, milk, kefir and other food products. But a complete cream should not contain the above ingredients. In order for the mixture of components to look like a cream from store shelves and have a shelf life of more than a month, its formulation must consist of water, oily and active phases.
The fatty phase includes oils, water - distilled water, hydrolates and decoctions, active - vitamins, as well as powerful substances that are really aimed at eliminating skin imperfections. It should also be understood that oil and water cannot be mixed until a uniform consistency is obtained. For this purpose, an emulsifier must be used. And in order for the cream to be stored not for a couple of days, but for a couple of months, preservatives are used.
All the ingredients you need can be purchased from online creamer shops. For the manufacture of skin care products, you should also order heat-resistant bowls, jewelry scales and a special thermometer. Do not forget to go to the categories "inventory" and "cosmetic containers" before placing your order.
Before proceeding with the manufacture of the cream, it is necessary to draw up its recipe. If this is not done, the prepared product will separate and become unusable. Then, the fat phase and the emulsifier are placed in one container, and the water phase in the other. Both phases are heated in a water bath to 65-70 ° C, then mixed by stirring thoroughly with a glass rod (about three minutes) or a cappuccinatore (about 30 seconds). To start adding the active ingredients to the mixture, you must wait until it cools down to a temperature of 40 ° C. At the end of the preparation of the cosmetic, a preservative is added and must be mixed again with other components of the cream. The finished emulsion is placed in a clean bottle. The shelf life of such a product is usually from one month to six months. Store the cream in the refrigerator.
What does a homemade cream consist of?
Base oils, forming a fatty phase, are noted for the following advantages:
- Nourish the skin, saturating it with vitamins, minerals and other useful elements.
- They moisturize the skin well, regulating the water balance.
- They make the skin softer and smoother.
- Prevent the occurrence.
- Reduces inflammation.
- Promotes rapid healing of wounds and cracks.
- Improves blood circulation and complexion.
- Protect the skin from negative effects environment.
- Cleanses pores, regulates oily skin.
For dry skin, you can use apricot oil, sesame oil, olive oil, shea butter, avocado or walnut oil. If you have oily skin, grape seed oil, hazelnut oil, black cumin oil, sensitive - sea buckthorn oil is suitable for you, apricot oil, jojoba or black cumin oil. One oil or several oils can be included in the recipe. If you decide to use pure oils for skin care, be sure to consider their comedogenicity, their ability to clog pores. So coconut oil and cocoa butter are better suited for use as the main ingredients for hair masks or body creams, but not for pure face.
For the manufacture of skin care products, you can use liquid oils and butters-oils, that is, solid ones. The second option includes shea butter, cocoa butter, avocado, mango, coconut, etc. When choosing a butter, look for cold-pressed unrefined oils.
As for emulsifiers, an emulsifier in the form of beeswax or guar gum, fatty - sucrose stearate or cetyl alcohol, sensitive - stearic acid or sodium alginate. There are other emulsifiers as well, including Olivem 1000, a complex combination of fatty acids chemically similar to lipid composition. skin... The more emulsifier, the thicker the consistency of the cream is. Olivem 1000 is usually taken at a dosage of 5%.
When developing a recipe for a future cream, be sure to observe the correct dosage of ingredients. If you decide to prepare a nourishing night cream for dry skin, the oily phase should be at most 50%, oily or normal - 20%. For day care, use a moisturizer, where the oily phase reaches 5% (for oily skin), 15% (for normal) or 35% (for very dry).
Never use tap water as the aqueous phase! The best way- distilled water purchased from a pharmacy or ordered through an online store. Sometimes hydrolates, that is, flower waters, are added to this phase in the amount of 10-50%. For dry and sensitive skin, hydrolat of rose, celandine, cornflower, calendula, ylang-ylang, cucumber, linden, lavender, for oily skin - chamomile, mint, parsley, plantain, hibiscus, for normal - celandine, calendula, chamomile, linden, mint , currants, roses, jasmine, for the combined - lemon, viburnum, juniper, rosemary, cucumber, parsley.
A face cream can be made without the use of assets, but if you want to get rid of age spots, acne marks, wrinkles and other skin imperfections as soon as possible, such ingredients are a must! There are many assets, here are some of them:
- From wrinkles: hyaluronic acid, AHA-acids, Algo "boost, Bio-remodelant, caffeine, elastin, Relax" rides, royal jelly, ginseng extract, red grape extract.
- To moisturize the skin: hyaluronic acid, NMF, squalane, Fucocert, Honeyquat, royal jelly, cucumber extract, aloe vera gel, urea.
- To reduce inflammation and to nourish the skin: allantoin, bisabolol, Fucocert, provitamin B5, royal jelly, cucumber extract, Sang du dragon extract, almond milk.
You can use Cosgard, Phenonip, Suttocide A, Vitamin E, Leucidal as a preservative. Usually the dosage of this component in the cream is 0.6-1%. As for essential oils (0.3-1%), they are not an obligatory component in the cream, but create an additional effect and aroma. If yours is dry and sensitive skin, essential oils of blue chamomile, rose, jasmine, lavender, sandalwood are suitable for you. Dry skin can be accompanied by rosacea in the form of a vascular pattern on the face, in which case add rosemary, cypress, or verbena essential oil to the cream. For oily skin, grapefruit, lemon, bergamot, and rosemary oils are used. Clove, chamomile, pine, tea tree, eucalyptus oils fight acne well.
If you are planning to seriously engage in creaming, be sure to read the relevant literature. The fact is that an effective cream is the one that is balanced in its fatty acid composition.
Pros and cons of homemade cream
When making homemade skin care products, you may encounter the following challenges:
- If the correct dosage is not followed, you can get severe allergic reactions, especially when it comes to increasing the amount of essential oils and assets used. To prevent this from happening, test the resulting product on your wrist.
- Oily oils can clog the pores of your face, which can lead to acne, acne, and blackheads. To prevent this situation, do cleaning procedures regularly.
- Do-it-yourself cream can only be stored in a cool place, otherwise its shelf life will be significantly reduced.
- To make even one cream, you will need to purchase various ingredients, as well as inventory.
- Due to calculation errors, the cream may delaminate.
- You know exactly what ingredients are in the cream and how they are useful. What can't you say if it comes about the product from the store shelves.
- You do not have to believe the notes written on the packaging of the products, because you yourself are the creators of your cosmetic "masterpieces". Today you can prepare an anti-aging cream, after two weeks - with a skin whitening effect.
- Homemade creams are much cheaper than quality commercial products.
- Creaming can become your hobby, and you will probably already know what to give your friends and relatives.
Homemade anti-wrinkle day cream recipe
Regardless of skin type, the face must be moisturized with cosmetics... Moreover, if there are any problems on the skin (freckles, vascular mesh, age spots, peeling, etc.), the choice of ingredients for making the cream should be taken more carefully so as not only not to aggravate the situation, but also to correct the defects ... Most often, women are interested in how to prevent the appearance of wrinkles and how to smooth them out if they have already appeared. Read the review.
Ingredients: distilled water (69.07%), mint hydrolat (2%), Olivem 1000 emulsifier (5%), rice oil (12%), apricot oil (4%), relax'rides active (3%), natural moisturizing factor (2%), vitamin E (0.33%), aloe vera gel (2%), Cosguard preservative (0.6%).
Let's say you decide to make 50 g of cream. To calculate how much distilled water you need to take to make a moisturizer for your face, multiply 69.07 by 50 and divide by 100. That’s 34.54 g.
- Rice oil often used to make a daytime remedy for dry, rough, dehydrated skin and one that has lost its elasticity and firmness, instead of becoming flabby. This oil does not clog pores, prevents the appearance of wrinkles, and is wonderfully absorbed into the skin.
- Apricot oil include in the composition of funds to improve complexion. Vitamin C, which the oil is rich in, makes the skin more elastic, vitamin A is responsible for elasticity and hydration, vitamin F helps to accelerate the regeneration of skin cells, vitamins of group B have a good effect on the state of the epidermis.
- Relax'rides asset immediately after application, it reduces micro-contractions of the skin, while not paralyzing the muscles of the face. This substance fights wrinkles, reducing their depth and smoothing them.
- Natural moisturizing factor includes glucose, dextrin, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, fructose, and sucrose. The active protects the skin from moisture loss, improving the properties of the epidermis.
- Vitamin E combats aging processes and wrinkles, tightens the skin and improves blood circulation. This antioxidant also promotes cell regeneration.
- Aloe vera gel it has long been recognized to be called a miracle elixir, because it gently and deeply cleanses the skin, protecting it from the negative effects of the environment. Aloe vera gel normalizes metabolic processes, moisturizes, nourishes and restores the stratum corneum. Thanks to lignin, which is part of this ingredient, healing substances penetrate into the deep layers of the skin.
Other homemade skin cream recipes
A wide variety of creaming ingredients available in online stores allows you to create products that eliminate various skin problems.
Cream for normal skin faces:
- Vanilla macerate - 15%
- Emulsifying wax No. 3 - 3.5%.
- Distilled water - 79.9%.
- Coenzyme q10 - 1%.
- Cosgard preservative - 0.6%.
How to make a cream for combination skin:
- Opuntia macerate - 10%.
- Vegetable oil sea buckthorn - 5%.
- Emulsifier Olivem 1000 - 5%.
- Damask rose hydrolat - 30%.
- Distilled water - 46.7%.
- Rosewood essential oil - 0.4%.
- Blue cypress essential oil - 0.1%.
- Algo "boost Jeunesse" asset - 2%.
- Vitamin E - 0.2%
- Cosgard preservative - 0.6%.
Making a cream for oily skin at home:
- Vegetable papaya oil - 10%.
- Buriti vegetable oil - 1%.
- Emulsifying wax No. 3 - 5%.
- Witch hazel hydrolate - 79.3%.
- Natural pineapple flavor - 2%.
- Bacti-Pur asset - 2%.
- Cosgard preservative - 0.6%.
- Soda ash - 0.1%.
Dry skin cream:
- Shea butter - 5%.
- Sweet almond vegetable oil - 20%.
- Vanilla macerate - 32%.
- Emulsifier Olive Protection - 9%.
- Cetyl alcohol - 4%.
- Distilled water - 29.4%.
- Cosgard preservative - 0.6%.
Do-it-yourself acne cream:
- Thyme hydrolate - 15%.
- Distilled water - 58.48%.
- Jojoba oil - 10%.
- Emulsifier Olivem 1000 - 6%.
- Aloe Vera Gel - 6%
- Cranberry Powder - 2%
- Lemon essential oil - 0.9%.
- Manuka essential oil - 0.6%.
- Rosemary essential oil - 0.3%.
- Cosgard preservative - 0.6%.
Cream recipe for rosacea:
- Calophyllum oil - 8%.
- Safflower oil - 10%.
- Emulsifying wax No. 2 - 7%.
- Distilled water - 68.8%.
- Red grape extract - 5%.
- Italian immortelle essential oil - 0.4%.
- Vitamin E - 0.2%
- Cosgard preservative - 0.6%.
Video tutorials on creaming.
Hi friends!
With the beginning of the heating season, I felt a lack of moisture in the air!
The skin, blooming and joyful in summer, began to signal: dry, do something!
The batteries were boiled, and I had no choice but to do "something" :)
I decided again to pay attention to the inverse emulsions (), because they are great for the cold season (which we now have). Inverse emulsions have the ability to quickly restore dehydrated skin areas, are not washed off with water, provide better protection, create a film barrier that prevents the evaporation of moisture from the deep layers of the skin (contributing to its better hydration). Such emulsions are gradually absorbed, therefore (as I decided for myself) are better suited for a night cream. However, they can also be used as day creams, make-up creams, protective creams in cold weather (for example, for children when playing in the fresh frosty air or riding by ski).
However, in addition to positive qualities, reverse emulsions also have disadvantages:
- they are recommended for dry to normal skin (because oily skin can clog pores)
- inverse emulsions can be stickier and greasy (depending on the emulsifier), they are worse distributed on the skin (some have to be smeared, not everyone likes this feeling, although because of the properties I am ready to endure such garbage :)
It's up to you whether to make such an emulsion or not, and whether all the ingredients are suitable for you, but I liked the effect: I made myself (and my mother) the first batch of night regenerating cream back in September, now I'm going to make a new batch. So far for you - a tried and tested recipe :)
In order to make an inverse emulsion, we need patience (it's not that chlorine, but it requires some labor costs :) and a special emulsifier that forms inverse emulsions.
I have it - Neocare.
The advantages of Neocare (besides all of its excellent properties for creating smooth and tactile-pleasant emulsions) is its liquid consistency.
Which means that you can not heat the components and make the cream in a cold way.
I used:
| % | Fat phase | r |
| 8,4% | sweet almond oil | 10,60 |
| 4,6% | macadamia | 5,85 |
| 0,9% | marigold | 1,20 |
| 0,9% | black cumin | 1,08 |
| 2,1% | evening primrose oil | 2,66 |
| 3,2% | babassu oil | 4,00 |
| 5,4% | emulsifier Neocare | 6,87 |
| 0,8% | raspberry ketone | 1,00 |
| Water-active phase | ||
| 8,8% | aloe vera gel | 11,08 |
| 1,9% | willowherb asset | 2,35 |
| 0,8% | preservative phenoxetol | 0,95 |
| 4,2% | glycerol | 5,26 |
| 2,3% | d-panthenol | 2,90 |
| 1,2% | salt | 1,50 |
| 37,8% | rose hydrolat | 47,80 |
| 16,8% | neroli hydrolat | 21,22 |
What to do?
We mix all the components of the fat phase!
First, oils, then raspberry ketone is added there (it is fat-soluble)
Add Neocare inverse emulsifier
Mix the water-active phase separately:
Hydrolates and aloe vera gel, d-panthenol, glycerin
We dissolve ordinary table salt in them.
I must say that the solution table salt in our cream not only helps to stabilize the emulsion (therefore it must be added) but also promotes better penetration of substances into the layers of the skin.
The active ingredient Willowherb, which has an anti-inflammatory and healing effect that prevents the appearance of acne and acne, can be added both to the aqueous phase and to the finished cream. Likewise with a preservative.
And now a short master class on the preparation of inverse emulsion:
Thinly drop by drop, add the aqueous phase to the fatty phase, while mixing the fatty phase with just a spoon or a whisk.
Mayonnaise is prepared in a similar way in cooking.
Then we mix our emulsion for 2-3 minutes at high speeds with a mixer or blender (during the course of the action I had to change the container :).
This is not the end of the process! It has just begun!
Now you should stir the emulsion with a spoon, whisk or mini-mixer for 10-20 minutes.
At the same time, I did not strain, I drank tea, chatted with my husband :)
With my hand free from cookies and tea, walking around, I stirred the cream with a mini mixer for 10-15 minutes.
It grew thicker and thicker. Gradually, the water and oil phases stopped separating from each other, and the mini-mixer began to slow down - thickly!
Hooray! This is what we need!
To be sure, I stirred it with a hand blender for a minute. The procedure, perhaps, is superfluous, but the consistency satisfied me :)))
As you can see in the photo, the consistency is quite liquid, more like condensed milk (???), if such a comparison is appropriate.
I needed this one. But in general, you can add thickeners (such as xanthan) or reduce the oil phase - so the emulsion will be denser and thicker (yes, this is the paradox of inverse emulsions: more water - thicker emulsion! More oils - thinner emulsion!)
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